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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE 

YOUNG GARDENEK'S 

ASSISTANT: 

CONTAINING A CATALOGUE OP 

GARDEN AJfD FLOWER SEEDS, 

WITH 
f RACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD, 

FOR THE CULTIVATION OF 

CULINARY VEGETABLES 

AND 
WITH DIREC^DNS FOR CULTIVATING 

PHUIT TREES, THE GRAPE VIBfB; 

I'C. 4-c. 4'C. 

%. ^ 

BY T^SrIDGEMAN, - 

GARDENER, SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST, NEW-YORK. 
'* The end of all instruction should be the attainment of useful knowledge," 



PRINTED AND £OLD BY VV. MITCHELL, 265 BOWERY; 
Sold by the Author, corner ofldth streetaml Rnweiy Road, immediately 
norihof T'liion P.ace ; G C Thorburn, G7 Librrty street ; Alexander 
Smith, 38'j Hroadway, and other Seedsmen and Florists; by J. Stanley 
and Co. 418 Broadway ; J. G. Shaw, 134 Bowery, and the BooJigel- 
l«s in general. 

1835, 



[Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1835, by 
Thomas Bridgeman, in the Clerk's ^ce of the District Court 
of the United States, for the Southern District of New- York, in 
the Second Circuit.] 

^' #■ // 






ADVERTISEMENT. 



It is presumed that this edition of the "Young Gardener's 
Assistant'' will be found generally useful to such as may wish to 
superintend, or take the management of their own gardens. The 
author's object, as stated in the preface to the first edition, has been 
satisfactorily accomplished, which the followmg statement of facts 
will show. 

One hundred and fifty copies of that edition were retailed by 
Messrs. Thorburn & Sons, within a month after it was published, 
and subsequently, upwards of a thousand.— Messrs Smith & Co., 
and other Seedsmen in New- York, have also been successful in 
circulating many hundreds of them, and the author has been 
gratified by learning that the work has been extensively circulated 
in various parts of the country. 

The author might here cite the opinions of many practical 
gardeners in favour of the work, but after the encouragement given 
to previous editions, he is perfectly willing that the present one 
should speak for itself. IndeeJ, to enumerate all the commenda- 
tions passed on this humble attempt to promote useful knowledge, 
would exceed our limits. Suffice it to state, that the work has 
been respectfully noticed and recommended to public patronage, by 
the editors of the following periodicals : American, Commercial, 
Courier and Enquirer, Evening Post, Gazette, Journal of Com- 
merce, Mercantile and Advocate, Old Countryman, Standard, 
Traveller, Weekly Messenger, the New- York Farmer, the 
American Farmer, and the Albany Argus, besides many of those 
periodical publications, devoted to agricultural pursuits, in diflferent 
parts of the country. 

It appears from an article in the New-York Farmer and Hor- 
ticultural Repository, that this little work has been noticed in 
France. The editor informs us, in page 295 of the 4th volume, 
dated Nov. 10, 1831, that "one of the leading articles in the second 



IV ADVEBTISEMENT. 

number of the present volume of the ' Aniiales de L'lnstilute 
Royal Horticole de FromonV is a long notice of the Young 
Gardener's Assistant, by Mr. Thomas Briogeraan, of tbis city. 
The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the bttle 
work in very commendable terms." 

It is not pretended that this work contains copious directions, 
calculated to make every man a nurseryman, or propagator of 
exotic plants ; but the author flatters himself, that it will be found 
to contain sufficient information for those who miy wish to become 
their own gardeners. The directions for the cultivation of ve- 
getables, are the result of fifteen years' assiduous practice and 
observation, as a market gardener; and it is presumed that the 
author's experience in other departments of gardening, has been 
sufficient to warrant him in this attempt (o instruct those who have 
not hitherto become acquainted with the art. The author considers 
it not derogatory to acknowledge, that he has frequently compared 
his ideas with those of other authors, and that he has, in some 
instances, availed himself of the benefit of their instructions; but 
he is not aware that in so doing, he has adopted any ideas merely 
speculative ; to avoid wliicii, he has invariably submitted such manu- 
script to the scrutiny of aged and experienced gardeners, of his 
acquaintance, and the result has generally been such as to confirm 
him in his original positions. 

It must appear evident to the reader, on a review of this little 
work, that the author, in adopting the catalogue form, has been 
enabled to give as much information as is necessary to the culti- 
vation of each particular kind of vegetable, in a condensed form; 
whereas, had he pursued the same course as most of his predecessors 
have done, his book would have been considerably larger, and the 
reader must have been at the trouble of perusing the greater part 
of it, at least twelve times in the course of a year. — ihe author, 
however, being aware of the convenience of a calendar, has, in 
this edition, annexed a short one, with a view to assist the memory 
of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may find 
employment in some of the departments of gardening in every 
month of the year. 

The author, having shown his primary object in adopting the 
catalogue farm, j>;esumes that hisreadtrs will not be disappointecj, 
if they do not had there the names of all the species or varieties of 



ADVERTISEMENT. V 

plants they may wish to introduce into their gardens, the mode of 
culture of such being generally aUke. If a catalogue of this kind 
was essential, it would occupy more space than is allotted for 
this book ; besides, it would be impossible to keep pace with 
our enterprising Horticulturists and Florists, who are continually 
introducing new species into our country. When, also, is it con- 
sidered that there are a number of indigenous plants at present 
unknown to us, it will appear evident, that the most extensive 
catalogue would not be perfect in this respect for any length of 
time. The author, therefore, thought it unnecessary to attempt 
any thing more, than that which is essential to the attainment of 
a tolerable ^hare of the products of the garden, by ordinary 
exertion. How far he has succeeded in this respect, must be left 
for the reader to decide. 

THOMAS BRIDGEiMAN. 
Bowery Road, January^ 1835. 



PREFACE 

TO THE FIRST E D I T I O N.^ 



The object of this Iilt!e work is to enable our respectable 
seedsmen, while they are furiiishing a calalocrne of seeJs for the 
use of the Kitchen and Flower Garden, to afford instructions, at 
a trifling expense, to such of their customers as may not have a 
regular gardener, and thereby save themselves the blame of those 
who may not give their seeds a fair trial, for want of knowing bow 
to dispose of them in the ground. 

The author being a seedsman himself, is aware that however 
anxious his fellow tradesmen may be to sell such seeds as will 
please their customers, they are sometimes charged with dishonest 
intentions, from the failure of seeds, when the fault lies not with 
them, but with the gardener. He will endeavour, therefore, in his 
humble v/ay, to render himself useful both to the seedsman and 
the gardener, by givmg brief directions for the management of the 
Kitchen Garden, in swch a way as to insure success. In doing 
this he would remind the public, that as brevity must be consulted 
iu this work, he cannot be expected, in a few pages, to do that 
justice to a subject which is only to be found in the books of 
eminent horficuUurists. He hopes, however, to be sufficiently 
exphclt to give his reader? a taste for the pleasurable and profitable, 
as vy^ell as healthful emfiiuj'ment of gardening, and thereby lead 
them tc the perusal of other works of a more extensive nature. He 
also intends to devote a few pages to the attention of our fair country- 
women, and direct them to a rational and delightful recreation. 
To this end he will, (after furnishing a cafabsiue of some of the 
most esteemed kinds of flower seeds,) give brief directions for 
promoting the growth of these seeds, while in the seed bed, leaving 
it to thrir own good taste and judgment to arrange the plants of 
those beauties of nature, so as to set them ofTto the best advantage. 



PREFACE. Vll 



The Author is aware that the occupation of gardening is 
attended with difficulties, but he flatters himself that in proportion 
as his readers feel interested in the welfare of (heir veaetable pro- 
geny, in like proportion will they obtain pleasure and satisfaction 
in their successful emyloyment. To obtain this, he would recom- 
mend them to make up their minds as to what vegetables or flowers 
they intend to introduce into their gardens, and then, after having 
procured good seeds, let them have every suitable implement ready 
to begin the work at the proper seasons for preparing and planting 
the garden. These will be shown in the following pages, inter- 
spersed with directions on some other important subjects connected 
with this undertaking. 

Boioery Road, January, 1829. 



PR EFACE 

TO THE SIXTH EDITION. 



Fifteen years' experience as a gardener, and seven as a 
seedsman, has convinced the author of the importance of correct 
information on the subject of gardening. It is certain that a great 
proportion of the failures and disappointments of which cultivators 
complain, are occasioned through want of minute attention to 
points apparently trilling, ratlier than from any fault in the seed, 
which is the general pica of those who do not succeed, to their 
satisfaction, in producing the fruits of the earth. 

The preparing a piece of ground, and the depositing of seeds 
therein, may appear to many an employment that requires but 
little attention and knowledge ; but, when it is considered that the 
products of a garden are natives of various climates and soils, and 
that some vegetables can only be raised in cool and temperate 
weather, whilst others require the heat of the summer to bring them 
to perfection, it must appear evident that a gardener should 
watch the seasons as they pass, so as to give the various sorts of 
seeds and plants a fair chance, and that he should be particular 
in planting his seeds at suitable depths and distances, according to 
their nature and dimensions, as an opiwrtunity of raising some 



Vlll PREFACE. 

of the luxuries of the garden being lost for the year, may occasion 
more anxiety an<l trouble than it would cost to acquire a correct 
knowledge of the art of gardening. 

The Author having given precise and ample directions for the 
cultivation of such garden products as are treated of in this work, 
would solicit the young gardener's attention to its contents, before 
he deposits his seed in the ground, and would particularly invite 
the attention of those who may intend to plant an Orchard or 
Fruit Garden to the article "on the choice of fruit trees in the 
nursery,'' which contains minute descriptions of superior sorts of 
frait ; the trees of which may be obtained at most of our respectable 
nurseries ; and he flatters himself that the attentive cultivator vnll 
be amply remunerated for his labour. 

T. BRIDGEMAN. 
NetD-York, February, 1835. 



GENERAL REMARKS 

OX THE MANAGEMENT OF A KITCHEN GARDEN, 



Before I commence the Catalogue, it may be 
necessary for me to direct the reader's attention to 
some important matters essential to the good manage- 
ment of a Kitchen Garden. 

The mode of laying out the ground is a matter of 
taste, and may be left to the gardener himself; the 
form being a thing of trifling importance in the pro- 
duction of useful vegetables, or whether the ground be 
laid out in beds of four or ten feet wide, provided it be 
well w^orked, and the garden kept neat and free from 
weeds. 

Those who have not a garden already formed, 
should, however, fix on a level spot where the soil is 
deep; but as we have not always a choice, I would 
recommend the reader to that wiiich is within the 
reach, and ought to be tlie object of every man, 
namely, to make the most of what he has. 

To this end, he may form a border round the w^hole 
garden, from five to ten feet wide, according to the 
size of the piece of land ; next to this border, a Avalk 
may be made from three to six feet wide ; the centre 
part of the garden may be divided into squares, on the 
sides of which a border may be laid out three or four 
feet wide, in which the various flowering plants may 
be raised, unless a separate flower garden is intended. 
The centre beds may be planted with all the various 
kinds of vegetables as well as Gooseberries, Currants, 
Raspberries, Strawberries, &c. The outside borders 



2 GENEKAL REMARKS. 

facing the East, South and West, will be useful for 
raising the earliest fruits and vegetables, and the North 
border being shady and cool, will serve for raising, and 
pricking out such young plants, slips and cuttings, as 
require to be screened from the intense heat of the 
sun. It may be necessary to state further, that though 
shady situations are useful for the purpose of raising 
Celery, Cabbage, and other small plants, slips, &c., 
in the summer season, that all standard trees should 
be excluded from a Kitchen Garden, for the follow^ing 
reasons : — First, their roots spread so widely and im- 
bibe so much moisture from the ground, that little is 
left for the nourishment of any plant within the range 
of their influence; — Secondly, when in full leaf they 
shade a large space and obstruct the free circulation 
of the air, so essential to the well-being of all plants ; — 
Thirdly, the dropping of trees is particularly injurious 
to whatever vegetation it falls upon. 

Previous to entering on the work of the garden, 
the gardener should lay down rules for his future 
government. In order to this, he should provide 
himself Avith a blank book. In this book he should 
first lay out a plan of his garden, allotting a place for 
all the different kinds of vegetables he intends to culti- 
vate. As he proceeds in the business of planting his 
grounds, if he were to keep an account of every thing 
lie does relative to his garden, he would soon obtain 
some knowledge of the art. This the writer has done 
for the last fifteen years, and he flatters himself that 
a publication of the results of his practice will be 
interesting and useful to his readers. 

If gardeners were to make it a rule to record the 
dates and particulars of their transactions relative 
to tillage, planting, &c., they would always know 
when to expect their seeds to come up, and how to 



GENERAL REMARKS. 3 

regulate their crops for succession ; and, when it is 
considered that plants of the Brassica or Cabbage tribe, 
are apt to get infected at the roots if too frequently- 
planted in the same ground, and that a rotation of 
crops in general is beneficial, it will appear evident 
that a complete register of every thing relative to 
culture is essential to the well-being of a garden. 

One great article to be attended to, is to have a 
supplji^ of good old manure and other composts ready 
to incorporate with the earth ; also a portion of ashes, 
soot, tobacco dust and lime, for the purpose of sowing 
over seed beds in dry weather ; this will tend in a 
great measure to destroy insects, which sometimes cut 
oflf the young plants as fast as they come up. 

If the ground cannot be all manured every year as 
it should be, it is of primary importance that those 
vegetables be provided for which most need manure. 
A perusal of the catalogue will enable the young gar- 
dener to judge of the kinds of garden products which 
require most. Lest I should not have been explicit 
enough in this particular, I would inform him, that 
good rich manure is indispensably necessary for the 
production of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Lettuce, 
Spinage, Onions, Radishes, and Salads in general. 

In the event of a scanty supply of manure, those 
kinds of vegetables which are raised in hills or drills, 
may be provided for by disposing of the manure imme- 
diately under the seeds or plants. 

The next important matter is to ha •' the ground in 
suitable condition to receive the seed. I would wish 
it to be understoodj that 1 am an advocate for early 
sowing and planting, even at the risk of losing a little 
seed, provided the ground be fit to receive it. A light 
sandy soil will be benefitted if worked when moist, as 
such treatment will have a tendency to make it mor© 



4 GENERAL REMARKS^ 

compact ; on the contrary, if a clay soil be \^orked 
when too wet, it kneads like dough, and never fails 
to bind when drought follows, and this not only pre- 
vents the seeds from rising, but injures the plants 
materially in their subsequent growth, by its beco- 
ming impervious to the moderate rains, dews, air and 
influenc,e of the sun, all of which are necessary to the 
promotion of vegetation. 

Some gardeners, as Avell as some writers, recom- 
mend certain fixed days for sowing and planting 
particular kinds of seeds ; 1 think it necessary to guard 
my readers from being misled. The failure of crops 
may be often attributed to the observance of certain 
days for sowing. If some kinds of seeds be sown 
when the ground is Avet and cold, they will become 
chilled in the ground, and seldom vegetate. If they 
be sown in very dry weather, the germinative parts 
of the seed may become injured by the burning rays of 
the sun, or the young plants may get devoured by 
insects as fast as they come up. To obviate these 
difiiculties, I have generally allowed a week or ten 
days for the sowing of the seeds, intending the medium 
as the proper time for the vicinity of New-York. 
With this clearly borne in mind, the reader who ob- 
serves the difference in the degrees of heat and cold 
in the different parts of the country, will know how to 
apply these instructions accordingly. 

Much depends on the manures used on particular 
kinds of soils. The great art of improving sandy and 
clayey soils, is to give the former such dressings of 
clay, cow dung, and other kinds of manure, as will 
have a tendency to bind and make them more compact, 
and consequently more retentive of moisture ; and to 
the latter, coats of horse dunj^, ashes, sand, and such 
other composts as may tend to separate the particle* 



GENERAL REMARKS. 5 

slind open the pores of the clay, so as to cause it to 
approach as near as possible to a loam. 

The nearer the ground approaches to a sandy soil, 
the less retentive will it be of moisture; the more to 
a clayey, the longer will it retain it ; and the finer the 
particles of which the clay is composed, the more 
tenacious will it be of water, and consequently be 
longer in drying, and the harder when dry ; but earth 
of a consistence that will hold water the longest, 
without becoming hard xchen dry^ is that of all others, the 
best adapted for raising the generality of plants in the 
greatest perfection. This last described soil is called 
loam, and is a medium earth, between the extremes of 
elay and sand. 

I have in most cases recommended drills to be made 
at certain depths for the different kinds of seeds ; 
and when I have stated that the drills should be two 
inches deep, it is intended that the seeds should be 
covered only one inch, which they will be when 
planted in these drills and covered — and so in propor- 
tion for any other depth required. This may serve as 
a guide to the young gardener, but circumstances alter 
cases ; if, for instance, some particular crops should 
fail, this would render it necessary, if the season be far 
advanced, to risk a further planting of seeds, even if 
the weather be hot and the ground dry; if these be 
planted a little deeper, they may escape the violent 
heat of the sun, and in the event of a shower, the 
ground would become sufficiently moist to bring them 
up ; whereas, it sometimes happens, that seed sown 
after a shower does not vegetate until after the season 
is too far advanced to bring the crop to perfection. 

The work of drilling may be performed in various 
ways ; in some cases a plough is used, in others a 
small hoe, or a dibble drawn along the edge of a board 



,6 GENERAL REMARKS. 

or line ; it is of little consequence which way the work 
is done, if it be well done. While I leave the gardener 
to make his own choice of tools, I would suggest that 
he be provided with two or three drilling machines; 
these, every handy man may make for himself; they 
should be in the form of a garden rake, with a stout 
heavy back, and five teeth two inches broad, and 
tapered so as to enter the ground and leave drills two 
inches deep. If one be made with the teeth eight 
inches apart, another twelve, and another fourteen, 
they will be useful in making drills for various seeds ; 
and drills thus made, serve instead of straining a line 
for every row in planting Cabbage, Lettuce, Leeks, 
&c., the line being strained at one edge of the bed, and 
the drilling machine drawn strait by the line, makes 
five drills at once. If they are straight, they may be 
kept so, by keeping one drill open for the outside 
tooth to Avork in, until the ground be all drilled. 

Gardeners practice dilFerent methods of covering up 
seeds, some do it with a hoe, others with a rake or 
harrow ; some draw a portion of the earth to the side 
of the bed, and after sowing the seeds, return it regu- 
larly over the bed ; in some particular cases, a sieve is 
used, in others a roller. Roiling, or treading in seeds^ 
is necessary in dry seasons, but it should never be 
done when the ground is wet. 

There is nothing that protects young crops of 
Turnips, Cabbages, and other small plants from the 
depredations of the fly, so well as rolling ; for when 
the surface is rendered completely smooth, these in- 
sects are deprived of the harbour they would otherwise 
have under the clods and small lumps of earth. This 
method will be found more effectual than soaking the 
seed in any preparation, or dusting the plants with 
any composition whatever; but as the roller must 



GENERAL REMARKS. 7 

only be used previous to, or at the time of sowing the 
seed, and not even then if the ground be wet, it is 
necessary that the gardener should have a hogshead 
always at hand in dry weather, containing infusions 
made of waste tobacco, lime, soot, cow dung, elder, 
burdock leaves, &c. A portion of these ingredients, 
or any other preparation that is pernicious or poisonous 
to insects, Avithout injuring the plants, thrown into 
a hogshead kep t filled up with water, if used mode- 
rately over beds of young plants in dry weather, 
would, in almost every case, insure a successful crop. 

As liquid, however, cannot be conveniently used on 
a large piece of land, it may be necessary, if insects 
are numerous, to sow tobacco dust mixed with road 
dust, soot, ashes, lime or the dust of charcoal, in the 
proportion of half a bushel per acre, every morning, 
until the plants are free or secure from their attacks. 
Turnip seed will sometimes sprout in forty-eight hours. 
Cabbage seed ought to come up within a week after it 
is sown ; but it sometimes happens that the whole is 
destroyed before a plant is seen above the ground ; 
the seedsman, in this case, is often blamed without a 
cause. A correspondent has communicated the result 
of an experiment he has tried for preventing the at- 
tacks of flies or fleas on turnips. He says, steep your 
seeds in a pint of warm water for two hours, in which 
is infused 1 oz. of saltpetre ; then dry the seed, and add 
currier's oil sufficient to wet the whole; after which 
mix it with plaster of Paris, so as to separate and 
render it fit for sowing. 

In the summer season. Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauli- 
flower, &c. are particularly subject to the ravages of 
grubs and caterpillars ; to prevent thisAvholly, is per- 
haps impossible, but it is not difficult to check these 
troublesome visitors ; this may be done, by searching 



8 GENERAL REMARKS^ 

for them on their first appearance, and destroying 
them. Early in the morning grubs may be collected 
from the earth, within two or three inches of such 
plants they may have attacked the night previous. The 
approach of caterpillars is discoverable on the leaves 
of Cabbages, many of which are reduced to a thin 
white skin, by the minute insects which emerge from 
the eggs placed on them : these leaves being gathered 
and thrown into the fire, a whole host of enemies may 
be destroyed at once ; whereas, if they are suffered to 
remain, they will increase so rapidly, that in a few 
days the plantation, however extensive, may become 
infested ; now, when once these arrive at the butterfly 
or moth stage of existence, they become capable of 
perpetuating their destructive race to an almost un- 
hmited extent. The same remarks apply to all other 
insects in a torpid state. Worms, maggots, snails or 
slugs, may be driven away by sowing salt or lime in 
the Spring, in the proportion of from two to three 
bushels per acre, or by watering the soil occasionally 
with salt and water, to the quantity of about two 
pounds of salt to four gallons of water ; or the slug kind 
may be easily entrapped on small beds of plants, by 
strewing slices of turnip on them late in the evening; 
the slugs or snails will readily crowd to them, and 
may be gathered up early in the morning (before 
sunrise) and destroyed. 

If it be necessary at any, time to sow seeds in dry 
weather, it is recommended to soak the seeds in water 
mixed with sulphur. This practice, with attentive 
watering, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. 

Many kinds of seeds, such as Asparagus, Capsicums,. 
Celery, Fetticus, Jjeeks, Lettuce, Onions, Parsnip, 
Parsley, Rhubarb, Salsafy, Spinage, and other light 
seeds, will not veget£ite freely unless the ground b§. 



GENERAL REMARKS. y 

watered or rolled ; where there is no roller on the 
premises, the following may answer for small beds as 
a substitute : after the seed is soAvn and the ground 
well raked, take a board (or boards) the whole length 
of the bed, lay them flat on the ground, beginning at 
one edge of the bed, walk the whole length of the 
board, this will press the soil on the seed, then shift 
the boards till you have thus gone over the whole bed. 
In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your 
feet, or strike on the beds with the back of your spade 
or shovel. 

If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when 
the ground is dry, the transplanting should be always 
done as soon as the earth is fresh turned over, and the 
roots of the plants should be steeped in mud made of 
rich compost, before they are set out. 

I have in most cases recommended seeds to be sown 
in drills drawn from eiglit to twelve inches apart, in 
preference to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can 
be more easily destroyed by means of a small hoe ; and 
which, properly used, greatly promotes the growth of 
young plants. 

The following table may be useful to the gardener 
in showing the number of plants, or trees, that may 
be raised on an acre of ground, when planted at any 
of the under-mentioned distances. 

Distance apart. No. of Plants. Distance apart. No. of Plants 

1 foot • . 43 560 9 feet . . 537 

1 1-2 feet . 19.360 12 feet . . .302 

2.feet . . . 10,890 15 feet . . 193 

21-2 feet . . 6,969 18 feet . . .134 

3 feet . . . 4,840 21 feet . . 98 

4 feet . . . 2,722 24 feet . . .75 

5 feet . . 1,742 27 feet . . 59 . 

6 feet . . . 1,210 30 feet . . . 48' 

2* 



10 GENERAL REMARKS. 

The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as^ 
are not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, 
as it shews at one view many proportions of an acre of 
land, in squares of different dimensions. The last line, 
for instance, shews, that if forty-eight trees be planted 
on an acre, each thirty feet apart, that there may be 
forty-eight beds of thirty feet square, or thirty beds of 
forty-eight feet square, formed from the same quantity 
of land. An allowance of about one-eighth must, how- 
ever, be made from the above calculation for walks 
and paths. 

The table may also serve to show the gardener how 
to dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may 
be allotted for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it 
requires three hundred and two trees to plant an acre, 
when placed twelve feet from each other, it w^ill re- 
quire as many heaps of manure to cover the same 
quantity of ground, if dropped the same distance apart. 
It therefore follows, that if one hundred loads be allowed 
to the acre, each load must be divided into three heaps. 
If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load must 
be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to 
the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should 
choose to drop his heaps, five paces, or fifteen feet 
apart, he may make such distributions ofhisloadsasto 
have one hundred and ninety-three heaps on the acre 
of land ; in which case, by dividing each load into four 
heaps, he will require only forty-eight loads to cover 
the acre, and he may decrease the quantity still more, 
by allowing greater distances from heap to heap, or by 
dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so as to 
accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manur© 
he may allot to cover any given quantity of ground. 



CATAI.OGIJE, 



ARTICHOKE. Artichaut. Cynara, 

VARIETIES. 

Cynara Scolymus, or French. | Cynara Hortensis, or Globc- 

The Garden Artichoke is a perennial plant, produ- 
cing from the root annually its large squamose heads, 
in full growth, in England, in June or July, until 
October or November. The Globe Artichoke, whichr 
produces large globular heads, is best for general 
culture, the heads being considerably larger, and the 
eatable parts more thick and fleshy. 

Both sorts may be raised from the seed, or young 
suckers from the bottom, taken off in the spring. A 
plantation of Artichokes will continue to produce 
good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer ; 
fiutit must be observed, that if a supply of this dehcious 
vegetable be required throughout the season, a small 
plantation should be made from suckers every spring 
for a successive crop, as the young plants will not 
produce their heads in perfection , till after the crops of 
^le old standing ones ar^ over. 



12 ARTICHOKE. 

The most likely way to obtain a supiply of Arti- 
chokes in this country, is to sow the seed in the latter 
end of March, or early in April, in a bed of good rich 
earth, or it may be planted in drills one inch deep, and 
about twelve inches apart. The ground should be 
light and moist, not such as is apt to become bound up 
by heat, or that in consequence of too large a propor- 
tion of sand, is likely to become violently hot in 
Slimmer, for this is extremely injurious to these plants. 
After the plants are up, they should be kept free from 
weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. 

The business of transplanting may be performed in 
cloudy or wet weather, at anytime after the plants 
are from nine to twelve inches high. Having fixed 
upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good quan- 
tity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good 
spade or eighteen inches deep, incorporating the ma- 
nure thercAvith ; this being done, take up the plants, 
and after shortening their tap roots a little, and 
dressing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in 
rows five feet asunder, and two feet plant from plant 
in the row, leaving part of their green tops above 
ground, and the hearts of the plants free from any 
earth over them, and give each plant a little water to 
settle the roots. 

The following method of planting Artichokes is 
practised in Berkshire, England. The plants are placed 
in rows three feet and a half or four feet apart in the 
rows, and so deep that a basin may be formed round 
each plant, as it is fond of water, and in the Fall these 
basins are filled up hy drawing the earth into them, 
and the plant is covered up tAvo or three inches, by 
rounding up the earth over it. 

Some make new plantations with the seeds at 
ohce ; this may be done by preparing the ground as 



ARTICHOKE. 13 

above, and sowing a few grains of good fresh seed in 
each spot where a plant might be set, covering them 
about three-quarters of an inch deep, and then, by- 
marking each spot with a peg stuck in the ground, the 
vacant places may be planted with Cauliflower, Cab- 
bage Plants, Dwarf Beans, Lettuce, &c., taking care 
to keep the plants at a suflScient distance from the 
young Artichokes. 

The winter dressing of Artichokes is an important 
operation ; on it depends much of their future success. 
This should not be given them as long as the season 
continues mild, that they may have all possible ad- 
vantage of growth, and be gradually inured to the 
increasing cold weather ; but it should not be deferred 
to the setting in of hard frost, lest the entire work be 
lost. 

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to 
the ground, leaving the small ones which rise from 
the hearts of the plants ; after this, line and mark out 
a trench in the middle, between each row, from four- 
teen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the rows 
are five feet apart, as directed. Then lightly dig the 
surface of the beds from trench to trench, burying the 
weeds, and as you proceed, gather the earth round the 
crowns of the plants to the height of about six inches* 
placing it in gently between the young rising leaves, 
without burying them entirely under it ; this done, 
dig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the 
earth equally between and on each side of the plants, 
so as to level the ridges, giving them at the same time 
a neat rounding form ; finish by casting up with a 
shovel the loose earth out of the bottom of the trenches 
evenly over the ridges, in order that the water occa- 
sioned by heavy rains, &c., may immediately run off; 
Oft which account the trenches ought to have a gentle- 



14 ARTICHOKES. 

declivity, as the lodgment of water about the roots in 
winter, is the greatest evil and danger they have to 
encounter, even greater than the most severe frosts we 
are subject to. 

The beds are to remain so, until there is an appear- 
ance of hard frost, when they should be covered with 
light dry litter, straw, leaves of trees, or the like, the 
better to preserve the crowns and roots from its rigour. 
In this manner, the roots will remain in perfect safety 
all the winter. As soon as the very severe frosts are 
over, the beds must be uncovered, and when you per- 
ceive the young shoots begin to appear above ground, 
or rather one or two inches up, then, and not before, 
proceed to levelling down the beds into the alleys or 
trenches, rounding them in a neat manner; then dig 
and loosen all the earth around the plants ; at the same 
time, examine the number of shoots arising on each 
stool or root, selecting three of the strongest and 
healthiest looking on every stool to remain ; all above 
that number are to be slipped off close to the roots 
w^ith the hand, unless you want such to make new 
plantations with, in which case, any extra number for 
that purpose are to remain on the mother plants, until 
they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots, 
or junction with the old plants, when they are to be 
slipped off, and planted in a bed prepared in the same 
manner as directed for the young plants, taking care 
at the same time to close the earth about the crowns 
of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remaining 
suckers. 

Observe, the Spring dressing is to be given when 
the plants are in the above-described state, whether 
that happens in February, March or April, occasioned 
by the difference of climate, oi* the earliness or late- 
ness of the Spring. 



ASPAJIAGUS. 15 

The gardeners, near London, generally .take off the 
side suckers, or small Artichokes, when they are ahout 
the size of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale 
in the markets, and the principal heads that are left 
are always larger and handsomer. The maturity of a 
full grown Artichoke is apparent by the opening of 
the scales; and it should always be cut off before the 
flower appears in the centre ; the stem should be cut 
close to the ground at the same time. 

When your Artichoke plantations want manure, 
lay on a coat of old rotten dung, previous to the dig- 
ging of the trenches in November, and cover it over 
with the earth as you throw jt up ; in the Spring 
folio wing; dig it in. 



ASPARAGUS. AsPERGE. Officinalis, 



VARIETIES. 

Gravesend. I Larcre Battersea. 

Large White Reading. | Large German, or Giant. 

Asparagus plants may be raised by sowing the 
seeds in the Fall as soon as ripe, or in March, and 
the early part of April. It requires some of the best 
ground in the garden. The seed may be sown in drills, 
ten or twelve inches asunder, and covered half an 
inch with light earth. When the plants are up, they 
will need a careful hoeing, and they should afterwards 
be kept free from weeds. 

The seed sown in the Fall generally makes the 
strongest plants, and will be fit to transplant into 
beds when they are a year old. 

A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly 



16 ASPARAGUS. 

dressed every year, will continue to produce good 
buds for twenty years or more. 

New plantations of Asparagus may be made in the 
months of March and April. The ground for the bed 
must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn, but such 
as is moderately light and pliable, so as it will readily 
fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation 
that enjoys the full sun. It should have a large supply 
of good rotten dung, three or four inches thick, and 
then be regularly trenched two spades deep, and the 
dung buried equally in each trench, twelve or fifteen 
inches below the surface. When this trenching is 
done, lay on two or three inches of well rotted manure 
all over the surface, and dig the ground over again, 
eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, 
and incorporating it well with the earth. The ground 
being thus prepared and laid level, divide it into beds 
four feet and a half wide, with alleys two feet wide 
between each bed. 

At each corner of every bed, let a firm stake be driven 
into the ground, to serve as a mark for the alleys. 
Four rows of Asparagus are to be planted in each bed, 
and ten or twelve inches distance to be allowed be- 
tween plant and plant in the row ; and let the outside 
rows of each bed be eight inches from the edge. 

Strain your line along the bed eight inches from 
the edge; then, with a spade, cut out a small trench 
or drill close to the line, about six inches deep, making 
that side next the line nearly upright, and when one 
trench is opened, plant that before you open another, 
placing the plants upright ten or twelve inches dis- 
tance in the row. 

The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of 
the trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, 
and so that the crown of the plants may also stand 



ASPARAGUS. 17 

apfight, and two or three inches below the surface of 
the ground, spreading their roots somewhat regularly 
against the back of the trench, and at the same time 
drawing a little earth up against them with the hand 
as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due 
position until the row is planted ; when one row is 
thus placed, with a rake or hoe draw the earth into 
the trench over the plants, and then proceed to open 
another drill or trench, as before directed ; and fill and 
cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole 
is planted ; then let the surface of the beds be raked 
smooth and clear from stones. 

Some make new plantations with the seeds at once ; 
this may be done by preparing the ground as before 
directed, and planting a few grains of seed in each 
place allotted for a plant ; they should be afterwards 
thinned, leaving the strongest plants to stand at the 
same distance every way as before. 

Winter Dressing of Asparagus Beds. 

About the beginning of November, if the stalks of 
your Asparagus turn yellow, which is a sign of their 
having finished their growth for the season^ cut them 
down close to the earth, carry them oflf the ground, and 
clear the beds carefully from weeds. 

Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of 
good manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two 
or three inches thick, after which, with a fork made 
for the purpose, (wiiich should have three flat tines,) 
dig in the dung quite down to theVrowns of the plants, 
by which means the roots will be greatly benefitted ; 
as the winter rains will wash the manure down 
amongst them. It is the practice with some gardeners 
to dig out the alleys at every Autumn dressing, and to 
«over the beds with the soil so taken out ; this may be 
3 



18 ASPARAGUS. 

done for the first two years after the beds are made, 
but not afterwards ; as, when the plants are in full 
growth, their roots and crowns extend into the alleys, 
and the digging them out, frequently destroys plants, 
or renders them too weak to produce buds in perfec- 
tion. The beds will be greatly benefitted if covered 
to the depth of several inches, with leaves, sea-weed, or 
long litter from the livery stables. 

The seedling Asparagus should also have a slight 
dressing; that is, to clear the bed from weeds, and 
then to spread an inch or two in depth of dry rotten 
dung over it, to defend the crown of the plants from 
frost. 

Spring Dressing of the Beds. 

This work should be done from about the latter 
end of March, to the middle of April, just before the 
buds begin to rise. After clearing away all the long 
litter, or whatever may encumber the ground, spread 
the short dung over the whole surface, and dig it in ; 
if the alleys be dug at the same time, it will be very 
beneficial to the plants. Care must be taken at this 
season not to wound the crowns with the tines of the 
fork, but the forking the beds should not be neglected; 
as the admitting the sun and rain into the ground, in- 
duces the plants to throw up buds of superior size ; to 
promote such a desirable object, the ground should be 
kept clear of weeds at all seasons, as they greatly 
impoverish, and frequently smother the plants. 

The gardeners in England raise Asparagus in great 
perfection ; and sometimes have buds weighing from 
three to five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Ency- 
clopoedia of Gardening, that one grower alone has 
eighty acres entirely under this crop for the London 
markets, i 



ASPARAGUS. 19 

Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough 
to cut for general use, in less than three years from the 
time of planting. But in the fourth year, when the 
shoots are three or four inches high, they will bear 
extensive cutting. The best way of cutting, is to shp 
the knife down perpendicularly, close to each shoot, 
and cut it off slantingly, about three or four inches 
within the ground, taking care not to wound any 
young buds coming up from the same root, for there 
are always several shoots advancing in different stages 
of growth. The sooner tliis vegetable is cooked after 
being cut, the sweeter it will eat. 

The above directions are intended for family gardens; 
Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in large 
quantities for market, may prepare the ground with a 
plough, and plant two rows in each bed, which may 
be carried to any length required. If several beds are 
intended, they may be planted in single rows four or 
five feet apart, in order that the plough may be 
worked freely between them. Frequent ploughing 
will cause the roots to spread, so as to widen the beds, 
and the winter dressing may be performed in a great 
measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is 
cut, the ground between the beds may be ploughed, 
and planted with Cabbage, Potatoes, or Beans, &c. 



so 



BEANS. 



BEANS. (English Dwarfs.) 
Feve de Anglaise. Vicia Faba. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Mazagan. 
Early L-isbon. 
Early Long Pod. 
Large Windsor. 
Large Toker. 
Broad Spanish. 



Sandwich Bean. 
Green Genoa. 
Dwarf Cluster. 
White Blossom. 
Green Nonpareil. 
Sword Long Pod. 



The principal cause of this garden product not suc- 
ceeding well in this country, is occasioned by the 
Summer heat overtaking them before they are podded, 
causing the blossom to drop off prematurely ; conse- 
quently, the crops are poor and scanty — to obviate 
this difficulty, they should be planted as early in 
the year as possible. They are generally planted in 
England, from October to April, for early crops, and 
from that time to July, for late crops. It sometimes 
happens that their plantings are injured by the ex- 
tremity of their Winters, but they never miss having 
an average crop. 

In order to insure success here, I would recommend 
those who are desirous of obtaining a tolerable supply 
of these vegetables, to plant them early, as it will be 
recollected that they will be deficient in quality, as 
well as in quantity, on the approach of warm weather. 
In January, or early in February, a few for early crops 
may be sown about two inches deep in boxes of earth 
placed in a light cellar, or in earth on the floor, and 
afterwards transplanted, in rows from thirty inches to 
three feet asunder, according to the size and kind, 
and the beans two or three inches distant in the rows. 
This method is considered by some as preferable to 
the general method of planting them in the place 



BEANS. 21 

where they are to stand ; and it is said, that by trans- 
planting they generally bear several days sooner. It 
may be necessary to observe that a strong clayey soil 
is the most suitable ; but they often do well in mode- 
rately light low ground, provided it is well trodden or 
rolled, after the beans are planted. 

The Mazagan and Lisbon are the earliest ; the White 
Blossom Bean is very delicious, and boils much green- 
er than any other kind ; but the Genoa bears the heat 
of our climates better than either of the others, and 
therefore is the most suitable for late crops. • The Long 
Podded Bean is very good, and bears well ; but the 
Windsor, Sandwich, Toker, and Broad Spanish kinds, 
are more esteemed than any other. The Dwarf Clus- 
ter Bean is a great bearer, never grows above a foot 
or fourteen inches high, and may be planted in rows 
either in beds or borders, the rows to be about two 
feet asunder ; and as this kind branches out considera- 
bly from the root, the Beans must be planted in single 
rows, and five or six inches distant from one another. 

If all the difierent varieties are planted at one time, 
they will come into bearing in a regular succession, 
according to their different degrees of earliness — and 
plantings may be repeated every ten days in March 
and April — for it is only from those that are planted 
early that any tolerable produce may be expected 
in the United States, especially in the middle and 
Southern parts. 

As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high,, 
they will need a careful hoeing, and if some earth be 
drawn up to their stems, three or four times in the 
course of their growth, it will greatly refresh and 
strengthen them. 

When they are arrived at full bloom, and the lower 
pods beginning to set, the tops may be broken off. If 
3^ 



22 BEANS. 

this be done at the proper time, it will promote the 
swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity ; 
for having no advancing tops to nourish, the whole 
effort of the root will go to the support of the fruit. 
Those who expect to have these Beans in perfection 
should watch their progress, and have them gathered 
while the pods are green; as they are much better 
flavoured when about half their full size, than when 
they are older and become black-eyed. 

Broad Beans are particularly subject to a green bug ; 
tobacco water, or saltwater, will sometimes destroy 
them ; but the most certain way is to watch their first 
appearance, and to pick off that part on which they 
first settle, and burn it ; or if such plants be cut down 
close to the ground, they will produce fresh shoots 
which may bear a good crop. 

For further directions, see article on forcing or for- 
warding Broad Beans. 



BEANS. (Kidney Dwarf) 
Haricot. Phaseolus vulgaris,, etc. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Mohawk. 

Early Dwarf Cluster. 

Early Yellow Six Weeks. 

Early Dun-Colored, or Gluaker. 

Early China Dwarf. 

Half Moon China. 

Rob Roy. 

Early Black Dwarf. 



Large White Kidney Dwarf. 
White Cranberry Dwarf. 
Red Cranberry Dwarf. 
Early Yellow Cranberry. 
Warrington, or Marrow. 
Refugee, or Thousand to One. 
White Cutlass Bean of Carolina. 
Bonavista. 



These kinds of Beans being all excellent, I shall 
leave my readers \o choose for themselves. The early 



BEANS. 2S 

kinds will come to perfection in from six to eight 
weeks after planting. Some of the other kinds will 
keep longer in bearing, and are esteemed by some on 
that account. These, with some of the early kinds, 
may be planted in the months of May and June. If a 
regular succession of young Beans be wanted through- 
out the summer, some of the early kinds should be 
planted every two weeks, from the last week in April 
until the beginning of August. These Beans require 
light rich soil, and may be planted in hills (three or 
four in a hill) or drills about two inches deep, and the 
Beans two or three inches from each other ; the drills 
may be from two to three feet apart. The Refugees 
are best planted in hills. As the Beans progress in 
growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing the earth 
up to their stems at the same time, and they will be 
soon fit for the table. 

Many gardeners, anxious to have beans early, are 
apt to begin planting too soon in the season, and very 
frequently lose their first crops. It should be recollect- 
ed, that these beans are next to cucumbers and melons 
for tenderness, and will always grow quicker and yield 
better, if the planting be delayed until settled warm 
weather. The Early Mohawk is the hardiest, and 
may sometimes succeed well, if planted about the 
middle of April. 



24 BEAI^S, 

BEANS. (Pole or Running.) 
Haricots a rames. 

Phaseolus Limensis. 

varieties. 
Large White Lima. j Sieva, or Carolina. 

Phaseolus Multi/lorus, 

VARIETIES. 

Scarlet Runners. 
White Duteh Runners. 
Dutch Case Knife, or Princess. 
Asparagus, or Yard Long. 



London Horticultural. 
French Bicolour. 
Red Cranberry. 
White Cranberry. 



The Beans of the latter species may be planted the 
latter end of April, and in May and June, either in 
hills three feet distant from each other, or in drills 
about two inches deep, and the beans two or three 
inches apart in the drills. The poles should be eight 
or ten feet long, and may be fixed in the ground before 
the Beans are planted. 

The Carolina and Lima Beans should not be planted 
in the open ground until the second week in May, 
unless the season be very favourable, and the ground 
warm. As these Beans are apt to get injured by 
cold and damp weather, let six or eight be planted 
half an inch deep round each pole, and afterwards 
thinned, leaving three or four good plants in a hill, 
which hills should be from four to five feet distance 
from each other, every way. 

The soil for running beans should be the same as 
for Dwarf kinds, except the Lima, which requires 
richer ground than any of the other sorts. 

If any of these beans are wanted earlier than the 
ordinary seasons, they may be planted in flower pots 
in April, and placed in a green house or garden frame, . 



BEETS. 25 



and being transplanted in May, with the balls of earth 
entire, will come into bearing ten or fourteen days 
earlier than those which, in the first instance, are 
planted in the natural ground. 



BEET. 
Betterave, Beta vulgaris^ etc. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Blood Turnip-rooted. 
Early Long Blood. 
Extra Dark Blood. 
Yellow Turnip-rooted. 



Early Scarcity. 
Mangel Wurtzel. 
French Sugar, or Amber. 
Sir John Sinclair's. 



A small bed of the earliest and most esteemed kinds 
of beets, may be planted in good rich early ground 
towards the end of March, or in the first week of April, 
which being well attended to, will produce good roots 
in June. 

Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two 
inches deep ; drop the seeds along the drills two or 
three inches from each other, and cover them with 
the earth. When the plants are up strong, thin them 
to the distance of six or eight inches from each other 
in the rows. The ground should be afterwards hoed 
deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds. 

If the planting of beet seed, for general crops, be 
delayed until May or June, the roots will be much 
larger and better than those from the earliest planting 
which, from being frequently stunted in growth by 
the various changes of weather, become tough, stringy, 
and of unhandsome shape. In case of failing crops, 
beet seed planted the first week in July, will some- 
times produce large handsome roots for Winter use. 



«* 



26 BORECOLE, OR KALE. 

The most suitable ground for beets, is that "which 
may have been well manured for previous crops, and 
would require no fresh manure, provided it be well 
pulverized. 

It is always best to thin beets while young. If the 
tops are used as a vegetable, they should not be left 
too long for this purpose, or they will greatly injure 
the roots of those that are to stand. Beds that are to 
stand through the summer, should be kept clean by 
repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended for winter 
use should be taken up in October, or early in 
November, and stowed away as directed in the calen- 
dar for those months. 

The Mangel Wurtzel Scarcity, and Yellow Turnip 
beet, are cultivated for cattle. Domestic animals eat 
the leaves and roots with great avidity. They are 
excellent feed for swine, and also for milch cows ; and 
possess the quality of making them give a large quan- 
tity of the best flavoured milk. 



BORECOLE, OR KALE. 
Chou Frise de Vert. Brassica oleracea, etc. 



VARIETIES 

Gieen Curled, or Scotch. 



Dwarf Brown, or German. 
Purple Fringed. 



Jerusalem, or Buda. 
Cesarean Kale. 
Thousand-headed Cabbacre, 



There are several sub-varieties of this genus of 
plants besides those above specified, most of which 
have large open heads with curled wrinkled leaves. 
The Dwarf Curled, or Finely Fringed sorts, are much 
cultivated in Europe for the table ; and the coarse and 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS. ^ 

tall-growing are considered profitable for cattle. The 
Thousand-Headed Cabbage, and Cesarean Kale, grow 
from three to five feet high, and branch out from the 
stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves and 
sprouts in the winter and spring. 

For the garden, these several varieties may be treat- 
ed in every respect as Winter Cabbages : — the seeds 
may be sown about the middle of May, and the plants 
set out in the month of July, in good rich ground. 
They are never so delicious as when rendered tender 
by smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate, 
particularly in the more Southerly States, as they 
will there be in the greatest perfection during the 
winter months ; they will also, if planted in a gravelly 
soil, and in a sheltered warm situation, bear the 
winters of the Middle States ; and may be kept in 
great perfection in the Eastern States, if taken up be- 
fore the winter frost sets in with much severity, and 
placed in trenches up to their leaves, and covered with 
straw or other light covering : the heads may be cut 
off as they are required for use ; and in the Spring, the 
stems being raised up, will produce an abundance of 
delicious Greens." 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
Chou a jus de Bruxelles. Brassica oleracea. 

This plant frequently grows from three to five feet 
high, and produces from the stem small heads resem- 
bling Cabbages in miniature, each being from one to 
two inches in diameter. The top of the plant resem- 
bles the Savoy when planted late. The sprouts are 
used as winter greens, and they eat very tender when 



BROCCOLI. 



touched with the frost. The seed may be sown about 
the middle of May, and the plants set out with a 
dibble early in July. The subsequent treatment must 
be the same in every respect as for borecole. 



BROCCOLI. 

Chou Brocoli. Brassica oleracea Italica^ etc. 



VARIETIES. 



Early White. 
Early Dwarf Purple, 
Early Green. 
Dwarf Brown. 
Large Late Purple. 



Large Putple Cape. 
White Cape, or Cauliflower. 
Sulphur Cape. 
Branching Purple. 
Large Late Green. 



The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower, 
may be justly ranked amongst the greatest luxuries of 
the garden. They need only be known in order to be 
esteemed. The Broccoli produces heads, consisting of 
a lump of rich seedy pulp, like the Cauliflower, only 
that some are of a green colour, some purple, some 
brown, &c., and the white kinds so exactly resemble 
the true Cauliflower as to be scarcely distinguished 
either in colour or taste. 

Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the 
greater part of the year, and it is raised with as little 
trouble as Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the 
Purple Cape Broccoli is now generally understood in 
this part of America ; but the cultivation of the other 
kinds, has been nearly abandoned, on account of the ill 
success attending former attempts to bring them to 
perfection. In such of the Southern States, where the 
winters are not more severe than in England, they 
will stand in the open ground, and continue to produce 



BBOGCOLt. 29 

their fine heads from November to April. In the 
Middle, and especially in the Eastern States, if the 
seeds of the late kinds be sown in April, and the 
earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated 
in the same manner as Cauliflower plants, it would be 
the most certain method of obtaining large and early 
flowers ; but as only a part of these crops can be 
expected to come to perfection before the approach of 
winter, the remainder will have to be taken up, laid 
in by the roots, and covered with earth up to the 
lower leaves. 

Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and 
Cauliflower in any quantity, so as to have all the 
different varieties in succession, should have places 
erected similar to some of our greenhouses, the back 
and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being 
afterwards covered with fresh stable dung, will keep 
out the frost. The place allotted for Cape Broccoli 
and Cauliflower, should have a glazed roof to face 
the South — the sashes must be made to take off in 
mild weather, but they should be always kept shut 
in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or 
boards, litter, &c. so effectually as to keep out the frost. 

The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved with- 
out glass, by having shutters provided to slide over 
the front in extreme cold weather, which may be 
covered over with fresh stable dung or other litter. 
If these plants get frozen, it will be necessary to keep 
the full power of the sun from coming on them until 
they be thawed this ; may be done by shaking a little 
straw over the bed as they lay. It may perhaps be 
not generally understood that the sudden transition 
from cold to heat, is more destructive to vegetables 
than the cold itself If plants of any kind get frozen, 
and cannot be screened from the sudden rays of the 
4 



30 BROCCOLt. 

sun, they should be well watered as the air get» 
warm, and before they begin to thaw ; this will draw 
out the frost, and may be the means of saving the 
plants. 

The proper time for sowing the seeds of the Purple 
Cape Broccoli, is from the tenth to the twentieth of 
May : those who intend to provide a place for the 
winter keeping of the other kinds, may sow seeds of 
the most esteemed varieties at the same time, or in 
two or three separate sowings, a week apart. 

When the plants are of sufficient size, they should 
be transplanted into extraordinary rich ground, which 
should be brought previously into good condition. 
This being done, plant them in rows two feet and a 
half apart, and two feet distance in the rows. As 
soon as they have taken root, give the ground a deep 
hoeing, and repeat this two or three times in the 
course of their growth, drawing some earth around 
their stems at the same time. 

Some of the varieties of Cape Broccoli, if attended 
to as directed, will come to perfection in September 
and October ; the other kinds will produce their 
heads in regular succession throughout the winter and 
spring months, according to their different degrees of 
earliness, provided an artificial climate be provided for 
them. These, of course, will have to be taken up 
early in October, and laid in carefully with the roots 
and stems covered with earth as far as their lower 
leaves. Those who have not a place provided may 
keep a few in frames, or in a light cellar ; but every 
gardener and private gentleman should have suitable 
places erected for a vegetable that yields such a deli- 
cious repast, at a time when other luxuries of the 
garden are comparatively out of our reach. 



CATTLIPLOWER. 31 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Choufleur. Brassica oleracea hotrytis. 



VARIETIES. 

Early White. | Late White. 

Hardy Red, or Purple Cauliflower. 



This is a first- rate vegetable ; to obtain which, great 
pains must be taken in every stage of its growth, the 
extremes of heat and cold being very much against it. 
The seeds of the early kinds should be sown between 
the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in a 
bed of clean rich earth. In about four or five weeks 
afterwards, the plants should be pricked out into 
another bed, at the distance of four inches from each 
other every way ; this bed should be encompassed with 
garden frames, covered with glazed sashes, and boards 
or shutters ; the plants should be watered and shaded 
a few days till they have taken root ; they will after- 
wards require light and air every mild day throughout 
the winter ; but the outsides of the frames must be so 
lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered 
as to keep out all frost. 

They should be well attended to until the time of 
transplanting in the spring ; and those who have not 
hand or bell glasses, so as to enable them to set some 
out by the latter end of March, should have a frame 
ready about the last week in February, in order that 
they may be transplanted to the distance of eight or 
nine inches apart ; this would prevent them from but- 
toning or growing up weak ; if this be not done, some 
of the strongest plants should be taken out of the 
bed and planted in flower pots, which may be after- 
wards placed in a frame or greenhouse, until the wea- 
ther be warm and settled, which maybe expected soon 



^2 CAULIFLOWER. 

after the middle of April. They should be then turned 
out with the balls of earth entire, and planted in a 
bed of the richest earth in the garden, at the distance 
of two feet and a half from each other every way ; the 
residue may be taken up from the frame the last week 
in April, or earlier if the season proves mild, by 
means of a garden trowel, and planted as above. The 
plants should be afterwards well attended to by hoeing 
the ground deep around them, and bringing the earth 
gradually up to the stems, so as to push them forward 
before the approach of warm weather. When the soil 
has been drawn up to the plants some little time, fork 
the ground between the rows lightly over, which will 
promote the growth of the plants. They should be 
liberally supplied with water in dry weather ; those 
out of flower twice a week, and those in every other 
day, which will contribute to their producing very 
large heads. As the flower heads appear, the larger 
leaves should be broken down over them to defend 
them from the sun and rain, in order that the heads or 
pulps may be close, and of their natural colour. 

The Fall plants are generally allowed to succeed 
best ; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced 
from seed sown in a hot-bed towards the end of Janu- 
ary, or early in February. Great pains must be taken 
to have the bed in good condition to receive the seed ; 
when the plants are up, they must have air every mild 
day, and as they progress in growth, they should have 
as much air as possible, consistent with their preserva- 
tion, but the beds must be kept covered up every 
night as long as there is any danger of frost. When 
the plants are three or four inches high, they must be 
pricked out three or four inches apart into another bed, 
and by the latter end of April they may be transplant- 
ed into the ground, and treated in every respect the 



CABBAGE. 



33 



same as the other. These plants, if well managed, 
will succeed very well, and those that do not flower 
by June, may make good heads in Autumn. 

In the early part of May, Cauliflower seeds may be 
sown in the open ground ; the plants should be pricked 
out in June, and transplanted into good ground early 
in July, to flower in the Fall : those that are not likely 
to flower by the last of October, should be taken up 
and provided for in the manner recommended for the 
Cape Broccoli. 

It will be beneficial in the raising of Cauliflowers 
to defend them from the north-west winds, by hedges 
made of reeds, or pales thatched with straw. 



Chou. 



CABBAGE. 

Brassica oleracea, etc. 



Early May. 
Early Screw. 
Early Dwarf Dutch. 
Early York. 
Early Sugarloaf. 
Early Emperor. 
Early Wellington. 
Early Heart-shaped. 
Early Salisbury. 
Early Savoys. 



VARIETIES. 

Early London Battersea. 
Large Green Glazed. 
Late Battersea, or Drumhead. 
Large Bergen, or American. 
Large Late Drumhead. 
Red Dutch, for Pickling. 
Green Globe Savoy. 
Large Cape Savoy. 
Russian, a species of Savoy. 
Turnip-rooted, in varieties. 



The early sorts of spring Cabbage may be raised in 
various ways. Some sow the seeds between the tenth 
and twenty-fourth of September, pricked out and 
managed the same as Cauliflower plants, only that 
they are more hardy, and may sometimes be kept 
through the winter, without glazed sashes. Some 
prefer sowing the seeds in a cold -bed, covered by a 



S4 CABBAGE. 

garden frame, and with sashes. If this frame be placed 
on a warm border, and kept free from frost, and the 
seed of the early kinds sown the latter end of January, 
or early in February, these plants will be better than 
those raised in the Fall ; as they will not be so liable 
to run to seed, and they will be more hardy and full as 
early as those raised on hot beds in the spring*. Or, if a 
heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the ground 
intended for the raising of early plants before the frost 
sets in — the same may be removed some mild day in 
January or February, and temporary frames made by 
driving stakes in the ground, and na iling planks or slabs 
thereto. The ground being then dug, the seed sown, 
and covered up with glass sashes, will soon produce 
plants in perfection. The frames should be well pro- 
tected by placing the dung around them, and covering 
the tops with mats, boards, &c. as directed for hot 
beds in the calendar for February and March. 

It is customary with the gardeners about New-York 
to raise their plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, 
the beds should be prepared as directed in a future page 
of this book, (see Index) so as to be ready to receive 
the seed by the latter end of February, or early in 
March. Plants thus produced, as well as those raised 
as before directed, will be fit to transplant about the 
middle of April, and should be carefully planted, with 
a suitable dibtle, in good ground, from sixteen inches 
to two feet apart, according to the size and kind : 
these, by being hoed often, will produce good Cab- 
bages in June. Ifseeds of the large early kinds be sown 
in a warm border, early in April, they will produce 
plants fit to transplant in May, which will make good 
Cabbages for Summer use. 

The seed of Red Cabbage maybe sown' early in 
May, and those of Savoys and late Cabbage in general. 



CABBAGE. 



35 



may be sown at two or three different times, between 
the tenth and twenty-fifth of May, in fresh rich ground 
free from weeds ; the young plants will require to be 
watched at this season of the year, and if they are 
attacked by insects, recourse must be had to the ingre- 
dients recommended in the general directions ; these, 
if used every evening until the plants get strong, will 
bring them forward for transplanting in the second or 
third week in July. 

The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be planted 
in rows at least thirty inches asunder, and the plants 
about two feet apart in the rows ; the Savoys and 
smaller sorts may be placed from four to six inches 
nearer every way. Cabbage succeeds best in a fresh 
rich soil, and the ground should be deeply hoed, at 
least three times, during their growth. 

The Brassica rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its 
bulb or protuberance, on the stems above ground, im- 
mediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, 
or about the size of a garden turnip. 

The seeds may be sown in April or May, and the 
|)lants afterwards treated the same as Cabbage, only 
that in earthing up the plants, you must be careful not 
to cover the globular part. 

They are much more hardy than Turnips. In 
England the bulbs often grow to upwards of twenty 
inches in circumference, and weigh from ten to twelve 
pounds. They are cultivated for the feeding of cows 
and sheep, as well as for table use ; in either case they 
treat them as they do Cabbages, or sow them like 
Turnips, and afterwards hoe them out to proper 
distances. 

The Brassica Napus, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage, has 
an oblong thick root in the form of a winter radish ; 
it is extremely hardy, and will survive very hard 



36 COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 

frosts ; the seeds should be sown in strong rich ground, 
and treated in every respect as Turnips, observing to 
thin the plants with the hoe to the distance of about 
sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger 
and better when treated in this way, than if trans- 
planted. 

The Brassica Napus, variety esculenta; is sometimes 
cultivated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem 
by the French as a culinary vegetable, and is called the 
Navet, or French turnip. In France, as well as in 
Germany, few great dinners are served up without 
it, in one shape or other. 



COLEWORT. OR COLLARDS. 

Chou vert. Brassica oleracea. 

This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when 
young ; it so nearly resembles the early kinds of 
Cabbage, that it is seldom cultivated. The English 
frequently sow the seeds of early heading kinds of 
Cabbage, as a substitute, which being done at different 
seasons, enables them to procure a supply of fresh 
greens from their gardens every day in the year. This 
is not attainable here, on account of the extremes of 
heat and cold ; but Collards would prove very valu- 
able and acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable 
season for fall Cabbage. 

If the seeds of Early York, Early Dutch, Dwarf, or 
Sugarloaf Cabbage, be sown in June, July and August, 
and transplanted as they become fit, into good ground 
from fifteen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting 
would make good heads for fall use ; and the plants 
of late sowings, if transplanted in September and Oe • 



CARDOONS. 37 

tober, in a -warm border, would produce tender sweet- 
eating Greens for use in the early part of the Winter; 
the latter plantings may be placed ten or twelve inches, 
plant from plant. These could be easily sheltered 
on the approach of severe weather, without being 
taken up. 



CARDOONS. 

Cardon. Cynara cardunculus. 

The Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is much 
cultivated in Europe for culinary purposes, such as for 
salads, soups, stewings, &c. 

The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are 
the eatable parts, after being blanched. They are in 
perfection in Autumn and Winter. 

The seeds may be sown in a bed of rich earth in the 
month of April ; wiien the plants are up strong, they 
should be thinned to four or five inches distance, to 
prevent their becoming weak. They may be trans- 
planted in June, at the distance of four feet from one 
another every way ; observe, before planting, to dress 
their tops and roots the same as Celery. As they 
advance in growth, they are to be earthed up for blanch- 
ing, keeping the leaves close together ; this may be 
done with bass or matting, as practised with Endive ; 
they are afterwards to be earthed up gradually from 
time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. 
As winter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up 
and laid away like Celery, or they may be preserved 
with sand in a cellar. 



38 CARBOT. 

CARROT. 
Garotte. Daucus carota, 

VARIETIES. 

Early Horn. I § (Long Lemon Coloured. 

Long Orange. 2 \ Blood Red. 



Altringham. | ^ ( Long White. 

The Carrot is a native of Britain, and is common by 
the road sides, in many parts. As a culinary vegetable, 
it is much used in soups and stews, and forms a dish 
with boiled beef, &c. The coarse sorts are grown as 
fodder for cows, sheep, oxen, and horses, and are 
considered profitable, as they frequently yield up- 
wards cf three hundred bushels to an acre. 

For the garden, the Early Horn being the earliest, 
should be cultivated for spring and summer use ; but 
the Long Orange and Altringham are more suitable 
for main crops, on account of their bright orange 
colour, as well as for their great size and length. 
They grow to great perfection in a rich loamy soil, 
and may be raised in drills drawn about one inch deep, 
and twelve inches asunder. A small bed may be 
planted the latter end of March for an early crop, and 
from that time to the end of May, for successive crops : 
but the principal crop should not be sown too soon, 
as the early plantings are apt to produce seed stalks, 
and consequently stringy and useless roots. 

The most suitable ground for the main crop of Car- 
rots, is that which may have been well manured for 
previous crops, and would require no fresh manure. 
If the seed be soon early in June, and the plants 
thinned out to the distance of five or six inches from 
each other while young, and kept hoed, they would 
yield an abundance of fine roots for Winter and Spring 



CELERY. 5© 

use, by being taken up in the Fall, and preserved 
either in sand in a cellar, or in graves covered up in 
the garden, as directed in the calendar for November. 



CELERY.1 
Celeri. Apium graveolens. 

VARIETIES. 

White Solid, I New Silver Giant. 

Red Coloured Solid. | North's Giant Red, 

Celeriac, or Turnip-Rooted. 

This vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is 
known in its wild state by the name of smallage ; 
and is found in great abundance by the sides of ditches^ 
and near the sea-coast of Britain. The effects of culti- 
vation is here strikingly exhibited, in producing from 
a rank coarse weed, the mild and sweet stalks of 
Celery. This circumstance should stimulate the 
Young Gardener to aim at improvements in the cul- 
tivation of plants in general. 

Those who may want Celery for Summer use, 
should sow some seed of the White Solid in a slight hot- 
bed early in March ; but as plants raised in this way 
are apt to run to seed, it is much better to wait a 
fortnight, and sow Some in a warm border. The seed 
for a general crop should be sown the last week in 
March, or early in April, in low but rich mellow 
ground ; if it be sown in drills half an inch deep, and 
raked in even, it will produce strong plants by hoeing 
frequently between the rows. 

The early sown plants should be pricked out into a 
nursery bed of rich earth, as soon as they are two or 



40 CELERY. 

three inches long, there to remain about a month, after 
which they will be fit to transplant into the trenches. 

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an 
open exposure ; mark out the trenches by line, ten or 
twelve inches wide, and allow the space of three feet 
between them, which will be sufficient for the early 
plantations. Dig each trench a moderate spade deep, 
laying the dug out earth equally on each side, be- 
tween the trenches ; lay three inches deep of very 
rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare 
the sides and dig the dung and parings with an inch 
or two of the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating 
all well together, and put in the plants. Previous to 
planting, trim the tops of the plants, by cutting off the 
long straggling leaves, and also the ends of their 
roots. Let them be planted with a dibble, in single 
rows, along the middle of each trench, five or six 
inches between plant and plant ; as soon as they are 
planted give them a plentiful watering, and let them 
be shaded until they strike root and begin to grow. 

The main crops may be planted in the same way, 
but in trenches four feet distant from each other, and 
an inch or two further from plant to plant ; or in beds, 
made in the following manner, which for the ease of 
preserving the plants in winter, will be found extreme- 
ly convenient, besides a greater quantity can be raised 
on a given piece of ground. 

Lay out the ground into beds of four feet wide, 
with alleys between, of three feet ; dig the beds a 
spade deep, throwing the earth on the alleys ; when 
done, lay four or five inches of good well-rotted dung 
all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate 
it with the loose earth, and cover the whole with an 
inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four rows 
in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight 



CELERY* 41 

inches apart in the rows ; after which, give them a 
plentiful watering, and shade them. 

The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown 
of sufficient size for earthing, which is done with the 
assistance of boards, by laying them along the rows, 
to support the leaves while you are putting in the 
earth from the alleys, and removing them as you pro- 
gress in the business. 

The earthing should never be done when the plants 
are wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but 
should be performed gradually in line weather as the 
plants progress in growth, repeating the earthing 
every two weeks ; at which time care should be taken 
to gather up all the leaves neatly, and not to bury 
the hearts of the plants. When they are grown two 
feet high, and well blanched, they are fit for the table. 
As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one 
season, it will be necessary to delay the planting of 
that which is intended for winter use until the latter 
end of July, but the trenches should always be got 
ready soon enough, to avoid a serious drought, which 
often delays the plantings till too late in the season. 
The blanching of Celery for winter use may be de- 
layed until October. 

The Celeriac, or Turnip-Hooted, may be planted 
either on level ground or in shallow drills, the roots 
of it swell like a turnip, and may be preserved in sand 
through the Winter. The French and Germans cut 
it in slices, and soak it a few hours in vinegar ; by 
such simple preparation, it becomes as mellow as a 
Pine Apple, and aflfords a delicious and very nourish- 
ing repast. 

In raising Celery on a large scale, the trenches may 
be worked out with a plough, and finished afterwards 
with a spade or hoe. The ground may be also ploughed 
5 



42 CHERVIL, CHIVES AND CORN SALAD. 

between each row of Celery previous to earthing it 
up ; this will save much labour. 



CHERVIL, OR CICELY THE SWEET. 
Cerfeuil. Scandix odorata cerefolium. 

Chervil is a small salad herb of aromatic property ; 
its leaves are used as salads, and for soup, &c. The 
seed may be sown early in the Spring, in drills half an 
inch deep, and ten or twelve inches apart, and ma~ 
naged the same as Parsley. 



CHIVES, OR CIVES. 
CivETTE. Allium scorodoprasum. 

This is a small species of Onion, growing in large 
tufts ; they are propagated by offsets from the root, 
and may be planted either in the Spring or Fall, in 
rows ten or twelve inches apart, and the bulbs three 
or four inches apart in the rows ; they will soon take 
root, and increase very fast into large bunches of bulbs. 



CORN SALAD, or FETTICUS. 
Mache ou doucette. Valeriana locusta. 
Variety — Olitoria. 

This plant grows spontaneously in the cornfields 
in England, hence it is called Corn Salad, and from 
it* being sufficiently hardy to stand the Winter, it has 



CRESS AND WATER CRESS. 43 

/acquired the appellation of Lamb's Lettuce, from its 
aflfording them an early pasturage. It is cultivated 
as a salad for winter and early spring use. Tlie seed 
may be sown in rich clean ground, the latter end of 
August or early in September, and the plants must be 
covered with straw at the approach of severe weather. 
It is important that Fetticus be cleared of all weeds 
while young, and kept clean, or it will be more plague 
than profit. 



CRESS. 

Cressox. Lepidium sativum, 

VARIETIES. 

Curled, or Peppergrass. | Broad Leaved Garden. 

Cress is also a small salad herb, and is generally 
used with lettuce, white mustard, or rape. It should 
be sown in little drills very thick, (as should the 
white mustard and rape,) and cut before it comes into 
rough leaf. A small quantity in the salad season 
should be sown every week in rich ground free from 
weeds. 



WATER CRESS. 

Cresson de FONTAINE. JVasturtium officinale. 

The Water Cress is a creeping amphibious peren- 
nial, and is grown very extensively about London for 
the markets. Loudon says, in his Encyclopedia of 
Gardening, that '' The most suitable description of 
water is a clear stream, not more than an inch and 



44 CUCUMBER. 

a half deep, running over sand or gravel ; the least 
favourable, deep still water, or a muddy bottom. It 
is highly advantageous to make the plantations in 
newly risen spring water, as the plants do not only 
thrive better in it, but in consequence of its being 
rarely frozen, they generally continue in vegetation, 
and in a good state for gathering through the whole 
winter season. The plants are disposed in rows pa- 
rallel with the course of the stream, about eighteen 
inches apart. When these plants begin to grow in 
water one inch and a half deep, they soon check the 
current so as to raise the water to the height of three 
inches above the plants, which is considered the most 
favourable circumstance in which they can be placed. 
It is absolutely necessary to have a constant current, 
as where there is any obstruction to the stream or 
place of water, the plants cease to thrive. After they 
have been cut about three times, they begin to stock, 
and then the oftener they are cut the better." 



CUCUMBER. 

CoNcoMBRE. Cucumis sativus. etc. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Frame. 
Early Green Cluster. 
Early Green Tabic. 
Long Piickly. 
Short Prickly. 



Long Green Southgate. 
Long Green Turkey, 
Long W hite Turkey. 
White Spined. 
West India, or Gherkin. 



The Cucumis Sativus, or common Cucumber, is a 
native of the East Indies, and of nearly as great anti- 
quity as the vine. It was introduced into England in 
1573, and is extensively cultivated in forcing framesi 



CUCUMBER. 46 

And in the open air. In March they are sold in the 
London markets for a guinea a dozen ; and in August 
and September for one penny a dozen. As Cucumbers 
are much used in New- York, it should be an object 
with gardeners to have them in the market early; 
directions for raising them out of the ordinary season 
are therefore given in a future page, under the head 
forcing vegetables, to which the reader is referred. 
Cucumbers may be raised in the open ground by plant- 
ing the seeds the first week in May, in hills four feet 
apart ; or if the ground be light — basins formed an 
inch below the level of the surface would be bene- 
ficial. Previous to planting, the ground should be 
prepared by incorporating a shovel full of rotten dung 
with the earth in each hill, after which four or five 
seeds may be planted half an inch deep. Cucumbers 
are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which some- 
times devour all the young plants ; these and other 
insects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, or 
powdered charcoal round about the vines when they 
first come up. After this is done, the plants may be 
thinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground care- 
fully hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the 
same time. Cucumber vines should be kept free from 
weeds, and if the weather proves dry, a gentle water- 
ing now and then, given in the evening, will be of 
considerable service. 

Picklers may be raised by planting the seeds at any 
time in July. When the vines begin to bear, they 
should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as fast 
as it becomes fit, as the plant will cease to bear much 
if the fruit be permitted to get yellow. 



fi* 



46 EGG-PLANT. 

EGG-PLANT. 
Melonoene ou aubergine. Solanum melongena, 

VARIETIES. 
Purple, for Cooking. | White, for Ornament. 

The seed of the Purple Egg-Plant must be sown in 
a hot-bed about the first of March, and the sashes kept 
down close until the plants come up, after which a 
little air may be given in the heat of the day. To- 
wards the middle of May, if settled warm weather, the 
plants should be set out from twenty-four to thirty 
inches apart, in a rich warm piece of ground, and if 
kept clean, and a little earth be drawn up to their 
stems when about a foot high, they will produce 
plenty of fruit. 

The plants of the white kind may be raised in the 
same manner, and transplanted into pots in May ; or 
if some of the seed be sown in a warm situation the 
first week in May, they will come to perfection in the 
course of the summer. 

As Egg Plants will not grow in the open ground 
until settled warm weather, and are often frozen from 
being transplanted too early, the gardener should be 
provided with small pots, in order that the plants may 
be transplanted therein early in May, and placed in a 
frame, there to remain until the first week in June, at 
which time, if they are turned out and planted, with 
the balls of earth entire, they will soon take root and 
grow freely, 



ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. 4t 

ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. 

Chicoree des jardins. Cichoriuvi endiva, etc. 

VARIETIES. 

Green Curled. I Golden Yellow. 

White Curled. 1 Broad-leaved Batavian. 

The Cichorium Endiva is a native of China and 
Japan, and is much used in salads and stews, and as a 
garnish for the table. 

The proper kind for early sowing, is the Green 
Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at 
different times in April and May, for those who would 
have it early. These crops will be very apt to run to 
seed; for this reason, it will be best to delay the 
sowing of seeds for general crops until June and July. 
If a small quantity of each kind of seed be sown two 
or three times in these months, they will produce a 
plentiful supply for use in the falls and early part of the 
winter. When the plants are three or four inches 
high, they should be transplanted into good ground, 
to the distance of a foot from each other, and imme- 
diately watered ; or if they are set out in cloudy or wet 
weather, it will save this trouble. The plants will 
require to be hoed and attended to in the same manner 
as Lettuce, until grown to a moderate size, when they 
must be blanched. Select the large and full- hearted 
plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a little 
above the middle, not too tight, previously gathering 
up the leaves regularly in the hand. This must be 
done when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the 
plants will rot. 

The Cichorium Intybus grows spontaneously in 
many parts of Europe and America. In France it is 
much cultivated ; the tops of the plants are considered 
profitable for cattle, and the roots are taken up in the 



48 GARDEN BURNET. 

lail and dried. The aromatic and volatile qualities of 
cofiee are, by the combination of this root, rendered 
more mellow and full upon the palate, and its fra- 
grance greatly increased, producing an agreeable tonic 
and most exhilarating beverage. 

Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, 
and about eighteen inches apart ; thin out to six or 
eight inches in the row. The plant produces beautiful 
blue flowers, and is worthy of a place in the flower 
garden. The roots, when dried, may be ground, and 
two ounces of the powder mixed with a pound of 
coffee. 



GARDEN BURNET. 
PiMPRENELLE. PoteHum sauguisorba. 

The common Garden Burnet is a native of England, 
and grows wild in dry calcareous soils. It has fibrous 
roots, and retains its leaves throughout the year, but 
the stalks are annual. It has long been cultivated as 
a choice salad herb. The leaves being of a warm 
nature, are also used in cool tankards, and for impart- 
ing an agreeable flavour to wine and cider. The seed 
may be sown in drills about an inch deep, and twelve 
inches apart, in March or April ; at which time, the 
roots of old plants may be parted off, and the slips 
planted out separately. 



INDIAN CORN AND JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 49 



INDIAN CORN. 
Mais. Zm mayz. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Golden Sioux. ") S* 1 Cobbett's Early Normandy. 



Early Tuscarora. f J^n. 

Early Canadian. \ P"! 

Sweet or Surar. ) ' I" 



Southern Horsetooth, 
Large Flour White. 
Mottled, and Curious Pearl. 



The dififerent kinds of Early Corn intended for boil- 
ing when young-, or others as curiosities, may be 
planted in the garden the last week in April, in hills 
four i%<ti apart, or in drills. If some of each be planted 
in separate beds at the same time, they will come in 
for the table one after the other in regular succession. 
After this, if any particular kind be preferred, it may 
be planted at different plantings in May and June. 
If the ground be poor, mix a shovel full of old manure 
with the earth in each hill before the seeds are planted, 
and after the plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup 
full of wood ashes around each hill. This, with at- 
tentive lioeing and hilling, will cause it to produce 
ears early. Deep digging between the hills is very 
beneficial when the corn is about eighteen inches high. 



JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
PoMME DE TERRE. Helianthus tuberosum. 

This plant is a native of America. The tubes of the 
root, which are generally abundant, were, before 
potatoes became improved by cultivation, in great 
esteem, and are yet considered a fine flavoured and 
nutritious food when boiled and mashed with butter. 
They may be easily propagated by cutting the roots 
into sets, with two eyes in each, and planting them ixi 



§0 LEEK. 



the same manner as potatoes, in March and April, 
To have them in perfection they should be hoed 
frequently, and the ground kept loose around them. 
In digging them for use, care should be taken to dig 
them out clean, as the least particle being left will 
grow the year following, and encumber the ground 
without producing a crop worth standing. 



LEEK. 
PoiRBEAU. Allium porrum. 

VARIETIES. 
Scotch, or Flag. | Lar^re London. 

This is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy 
as to endure the extremes of heat and cold without 
injury. The seed may be sown in March, or early in 
April, on a bed of rich earth, either broad cast, or in 
drills an inch deep. If the ground be kept loose and 
clean, the plants will be large enough to transplant 
in June or early in July, and should be set out in good 
ground, in rows twelve inches asunder, and the plants 
five or six inches apart in the rows. They will grow 
well in a warm border, which at this season is useless 
for manv kinds of vegetables. After the plants have 
taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept 
free from weeds. 

Those who wish to have leeks blanched, may plant 
;them in trenches three or four inches deep, and as the 
plants progress in growth, the earth should be drawn 
^nto the trenches. 



LETTUCE. 



6t 



Laitue. 



LETTUCE. 

Lactuca sativa crispa. 



VARIETIES. 



Large Green Head. 
t)utch, or Cabbage. 
Tennis Ball, or Rose. 
Maderia, or Passion. 
Large Green Curled. 
Egyptian Green Coss. 



r &3 

I • s- 

J I 



Early Silesia. 
Imperial, or Sugar Loafl 
Pale Green, or Butter. 
Grand /Vdmiral. 
Large Summer Silesia. 
Brighton, or Loaf CofeS. 



It would be easy to furnish a more extensive cata- 
logue of Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but 
as this is one of those kinds of vegetables that can only 
be raised in perfection during mild and temperate 
weather, it is needless for the gardener to plant any in 
the open ground, but such as have been tested, and 
fDund to stand a tolerable share of warm weather, 
which generally prevails in Mt^y and June, and, 
consequently, cuts short the salad season. Those v/ho 
have been accustomed to raise Head Lettuce in any 
quantity, know the trouble of preparing and planting 
the ground, and the loss they would sustain, if several 
thousands of plants run up to seed, just as they ap- 
peared to be perfecting for market. As this is often 
the case, even with the very best attention and luck, 
I would caution gardeners to test such plants as they 
may not be acquainted with, before they set out any 
quantity with a view to their heading. 

The six hardy kinds inserted in the first column of 
our Catalogue, have been known to stand our winters, 
and may be sown from the first to the middle of Sep- 
tember in rich ground free from weeds ; it answers 
very well sown with Spinach, and should be covered 
over with straw at the approach of severe weather. 
These plants, if transplanted into warm borders, or in 



Bi 



LETTUCE. 



the open ground, as early in March as the weather 
permits, will produce fine heads early in May. 

The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be 
sown in moderate hot-beds early in March, w4iich 
being transplanted into good ground by the middle of 
April, will produce their heads before the approach of 
warm weather. Such kinds as may have been known 
to produce heads in hot weather, and also such as may 
be required to cut as a small salad while young, may 
be sown in warm borders in March and April, but 
those intended for heading should be transplanted as 
soon as they are an inch or two in height, and kept in 
a growing state by frequent hoeing, or they may run 
up to seed as the season advances. 

The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched; this is 
done by gathering up the leaves of the plants, and 
tying bass round them when grown to perfection. 

All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading, should be 
planted into good ground twelve inches distant from 
each other every way ; the plants should be carefully 
hoed every other week during their growth ; the first 
hoeing should be done in about two weeks after they 
are transplanted. 

If head Lettuce be required at other seasons than the 
spring, it may be obtained in the fall by sowing the 
seed in August, or in the winter by means of garden 
frames and glazed sashes. See article on forcing 
tege tables. 



MELON. 



63 



MELON. 
Melon. Cucumis melo. 



VARIETIES. 



Green Citron. 
Murray's Pine Apple. 
Persian. 

Nutmeg. 

Star, Fine Late. 



If 

J a 



Large Yellow Canteleupe, 
Minorca, or Netted do. 
Pomegranate, or Musk Scented. 
Skillman's, or Netted Romane. 
Snake, (curious. ) 



The Melon is an exotic plant, growing- wild in Asia. 
It is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, 
and also in Africa and America, where its salubrious 
and cooling fruit is greatly esteemed. 

For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, 
prepare a piece of rich ground the first week in May ; 
manure it and give it a good digging ; then mark it 
out into squares of six feet every way ; at the angle 
of every square, dig a hole twelve inches deep and 
eighteen over, into which put seven or eight inches 
deep of old rotten dung ; throw thereon about four 
inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with 
the spade ; after which draw the remainder of the earth 
over the mixture, so as to form a round hill about a 
foot broad at top. When your hills are all prepared 
as above, plant in each towards the centre, eight or 
nine grains of good melon seed, distant two inches from 
one another, and cover them about half an inch deep. 
When the plants are up and in a state of forwardness, 
producing their rough leaves, they must be thinned to 
two or three in each hill • draw earth from time to 
time round the hills, and as high about the roots of 
the plants as the seed leaves. As soon as the plants 
spread into branches they should be stopped, by 
pinching off the top of the first runner bud, this will 
strengthen the plants and promote their perfecting the 
6 



54 WATER MELON. 

fruit early; after which keep the ground perfectly 
free from weeds by frequent hoeings. 

There are many varieties of the Melon, highly esti- 
mated in Europe, which do not succeed in this country; 
the gardener should, therefore, plant only such as have 
been tested, and found to produce good fruit here, or 
our superior old sorts may become degenerate. After 
a judicious selection is made, if caution be not used, 
to plant the different sorts remote from each other, 
also from cucumbers, squashes and gourds, degeneracy 
will infallibly be the consequence. To prevent the 
ravages of flies, &c. see cucumber. 



WATER MELON. 
Melon d'eau. Cucurbita citrullus, 

VARIETIES. 

Long Island. I Apple-seeded. 

Carolina. | Citron for Preserves. 

The Water Melon, though by some considered a 
species of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic 
plants. They afford a very refreshing article of diet 
in our warm summers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of 
his journey to the southern provinces in Russia, in 
1793 and 94, ' speaking of a colony of Moravians at 
Sarepta, or Sapa, on the river Volga, says, " the inge- 
nious inhabitants of this town brew a kind of beer 
from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons, 
with the addition of hops ; they also prepare a con- 
serve or marmalade from this fruit, which is a good 
substitute for syrup or treacle." 

In oi;der to have Water Melons in good perfection. 



MfSTARU. 55 

you must fix upon a piece of ¥efy rich light soil ; 
prepare, sow, and manage it in eviBiy respect as is 
directed for the others, only let the hills be nine or ten 
feet distant every way. 



MUSTARD. 
MouTARDE. SinapiSf etc. etc. 

The Alba, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously' 
in the fields in England ; it is also cultivated as a 
small salad, as well as for seed. The seed yields from 
every hundred pounds, from thirty -three to thirty - 
six pounds of sweet mild oil. 

The Nigra, or Common Mustard, is also a native of 
England. The condiment, called mustard, and in 
daily use at our tables, is prepared from the seeds of 
this species. 

The Erysimum is a genus of plants comprising ten 
species, four of which are natives of Britain. 

1. The Officinale. This species possesses a warm 
and acrid flavour ; and when cultivated is used as an 
early pot herb. Its seeds taken internally promote 
expectoration, the discharge of urine, and other fluid 
secretions. The juice has been employed with un- 
paralleled success in ulcers of the throat, &c. 

2. The Barbarea, or Winter Cress, is used as a 
salad in spring and autumn : some boil them as Kale. 

3. The Alliari is also cultivated as a salad. The 
Prussians eat the leaves in the spring with salted 
meat. In Wales it is frequently used as a frying herb, 
and in England the leaves are used with Lettuce, &c. 

4. The Cheiranthoides is eaten by horses, cows, 



56 NASTURTIUM AND OKRA. 

goats, sheep, and swine ; and is used by the country- 
people for destroying worms in the human body. 

The seeds of all the kinds of Mustard maybe sown 
in clean rich ground in April and May ; and for a fall 
salad in September, in shallow drills. 



NASTURTIUM. 

Capucine. Sylvestre. 

This is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is 
highly deserving of cultivation for the sake of its 
brilliant orange- coloured flowers, as well as for the 
berries, which, if gathered while green and pickled 
in vinegar make a good substitute for capers, and 
are used, after being stewed in butter, with boiled 
mutton, &c. 

The seeds should be sown in April or early in May, 
in drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales ; or 
trellises should be fixed on which they can climb and 
have support ; for they will always be more productive 
in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground. 



OKRA. 

GoMBO. Hibiscus esculentus. 

The green capsules of this plant are used in soups, 
and its ripe seeds, if burnt and ground like coffee, can 
scarcely be distinguished therefrom. 

The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the 
first or second week in May, if settled warm weather. 
Draw drills about an inch deep, and four feet asunder, 
into which drop the seeds at the distance of six or 



ONION. 



57 



eight inches from one another, or rather drop two or 
ihree in each place, lest the one should not grow, and 
cover them near an inch in depth ; as they advance in 
growth thin them out, earth them up two or three 
times, and they will produce abundantly. 



ONION. 
OiGNON. Allium Cepa, etc, etc 



"White Portugal. 
Silver Skinned. 
Madeira. 



VARIETIES. 

Yellow Dutch. 
Strasburgh. or Flanders. 
Deptford Red. 



Of the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow Dutch, 
Strasburgh, and Large Deptford Red, are the best for 
a general crop. The bulbs are handsome, of firm 
growth, and keep well through the winter. The 
white kinds are of a mild taste, and very suitable for 
pickling; also to pull while young, &c. ; they gene- 
rally turn out very j^rofitable crops. 

Previous to sowing onion seed for a general crop, 
the ground should be well prepared by digging in some 
of the oldest and strongest manure that can be got. 
The earlier this be done in the spring the better ; and 
the planting should not be delayed longer than the 
middle of April. The seed may be sown broad cast, 
or in drills one inch deep and twelve inches apart. 
When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed. 
Those beds that are to stand for a full crop, should be 
thinned out while young, to the distance of two or 
three inches from each other ; if a few should be re- 
quired for use after this, those can be taken which 
incline more to tops than roots, and if the beds be 
6* 



58 ONIONS. 

frequently looked over, and the small and stalky 
plants taken away where they stand thickest, the 
remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size. The 
plants should be hoed at least three times in the early 
part of their growth ; but if the season proves damp, 
and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be removed 
by the hand, because, after the Onions have begun to 
bulb, it would be improper to stir them with a hoe. 

When the greenness is gone out of the tops of 
Onions, it is time to take them up, for from this time 
the fibrous roots decay. After they are pulled, they 
should be laid out to dry, and when dry, removed to a 
place of shelter. 

The small Onions may be planted in the Sprinp^ 
following ; even an Onion which is partly rotten will 
produce good bulbs, if the seed stems be taken off as 
soon as they appear. 

The Allium Fistolosura, or Welsh Onions, are cul- 
tivated for Spring salad ; they form no bulbs, but are 
very hardy. If the seed be sown early in September 
in rich ground, although the crops may die down in 
the Winter, yet the roots w411 continue sound, and put 
up new leaves early in the Spring. 

The Allium Cepa, or common White and Red 
Onions, are most generally cultivated by market gar- 
deners as a substitute for the Allium Fistolosum ; 
they sow the seed in the spring and autumn months, 
the product of which is pulled and sent to market 
while young, and generally meet a ready sale. 

The Allium Proliferum^ orTree Onion, is propagated 
by planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, cither the 
root bulbs, or those produced on the top of the stalks ; 
the latter, if planted in the spring, will produce fine 
Onions. These may be planted in rows with a dibble, 
the same as Shallots. 



PARSLEY. tf^ 

The Potatoe Onion is oi* late introduction into this 
country. It does not produce seed as other Onions^ 
but is increased by the root. One single Onion will 
produce six or seven in a clump, under ground, similar 
to potatoes. 

The bulbs are generally planted in the spring, from 
twelve to eighteen inches apart, but they will survive 
the winter, if planted in the fall, by being slightly 
covered. 



PARSLEY. 
Persil. Apium petroselinum. 

VARIETIES. 

Dwarf Curled. I Hardy Siberian. 

Extra Curled. Large Rooted Hamburg. 

Single, or Common. | Large Rooted JXapIes. 

Parsley is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild 
in moist climates, but has been greatly improved 
by cultivation. The leaves of Common Parsley are 
used as a pot herb, and those of the Extra Curled 
kinds make a fine garnish. The Large Kooted are 
generally cooked for the table in autumn and winter, 
like parsnips. 

As parsley seed, sown late in the season, is apt to 
lay in the ground some time before it vegetates ; the 
general crop should be sown by the early part of April, 
in drills an inch deep, and one foot asunder. After 
the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent 
hoeings. The Large Rooted Parsley should be thinned 
out while young, and managed the same as carrots and 
parsnips. 

In order to have parsley green through the winter, 
the old leaves should be picked off in Septembero 



60 FARSNrr. 

If some of the roots be take-up early in November,, 
and laid in a frame or light cellar, the leaves will 
keep green a long time; the remainder may be 
covered up with straw fen the place where it grows. 

If some parsley seed be sown in frames in the sum- 
mer, and shaded, it may be kept for winter use without 
the trouble of removing it. 



PARSNIP. 
PANAiSr Pastinuca sativa. 

VARIETIES. 

Long Guernsey Cup. | Large Dutch, or Common. 

This is a hardy biennial plant, common m calcareous 
soils ; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and 
forms a vegetable dish in the winter, with salt meat, 
salted fish, &c. 

Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of 
March to the last week in April, in diills one inch 
deep and fourteen inches apart ; but as this vegetable 
requires the whole season to grow in, the sooner the 
seed is planted the better. Parsnips groAv best in a 
deep soil manured well the preceding fall. Sow the 
seeds thick along the drills, and rake them in evenly. 

When the plants are two or three inches high, thin 
them to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. 
They should be kept free from weeds by regula^. 
hoeings through the summer ; and in the fall they will 
be fit for use ; but they improve in flavour after having 
been frozen, and will endure the severity of a hard 
winter. See calendar for November. 



PEPPER. 61 



PEPPER. 

PoivRE ou PiMENT. Capsicum, 



VARIETIES. 

Grossum, or Bell Pepper. I Lonfj Red, or Bird's Bill. 

Tomato Shaped, or Squash, | Cherry, or West Indian. 

Sweet Spanish ; used as a Salad, has a ver}' delicate taste. 

This family of plants are natives of the East and 
West Indies ; some of their capsules or pods are 
yellow and others red when at maturity ; they are 
much used for pickling, and should be gathered for that 
purpose before they are fully ripe. 

The seeds of the different kinds of Capsicums may 
be sown in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border 
early in May. The plants may be afterwards trans- 
planted into good rich ground from eighteen inches to 
two feet distant from each other. 

Those who do not want peppers early in the season, 
may sow the seeds in the open ground in May, in 
drills two feet asunder, and half an inch deep. When 
the plants are grown an inch or two high, thin them 
to the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the 
rows. The ground should be afterwards hoed deep 
round the plants, and kept free from weeds by repeated 
hoeings. 

The Capsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is peren- 
nial, and will keep in perpetual bearing in warm 
climates. In England, this species is considered 
superior to all others, on account of its skin being 
thick, and also pulpy and tender ; the plants are, there- 
fore, frequently preserved in hot-houses during the 
winter and Spring, and kept in the open air in settled 
vrarm weather. 



62 



FEAS. 



PEAS. 
Pois. Pisum sativum^ 



VARIETIES. 



Bishop's Early Dwarf, 1 foot. 
Early Wasliintrton, 2| feet. 
Early Frame, '21 feet. 
Early Charlton, 3 feet. 
Dotrble Blossom Frame, 3 feet. 
Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 1 5 
Dwarf Spanish, ori<an, 1 foot. 
Early Nimble Dick, 3^ feet. 
Early Petersburg, Sj feet. 
Dwarf Blue, Imperial, 2 feet. 
Waterloo Blue, 4 feet. 
Dutch Gray, 21 feci. 



Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2^ feet. 
Dwarf Marrowfat, 3^ feet. 
Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feeti- 
Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet. 
Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet. 
Knight's Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet! 
Woodford's Tall Prolific, 6 feet. 
Large Gray Rouncival, 4 feet. 
Dwarf Sugar (eatable pods) 3 ft. 
Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 ft. 
French Bouquet, or Sugar, new. 
Albany Field, in varieties. 



The above list and description of the most esteemed 
kinds of Peas, is taken from the Catalogue of Mr. G. 
C. Thorburn, of New York. If they are rightly de- 
scribed, they will grow to different heights, according- 
to soil and season. This description, however, may 
serve as a guide for the gardener in planting. The 
Dwarf Peas require less distance between row and 
row, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. 

Planting the early kinds of Peas should commence 
as soon in the Spring as the ground can be brought 
into good condition : all the other sorts, as well as the 
early, will answer for successive crops; to obtain 
•which, a few of the most esteemed kinds should be 
planted at the sametime every two weeks, from March 
until the end of May. Persons desirous of having 
Peas throughout the Summer and Fall, may plant a 
few in June, July and August. The Peas should be 
then soaked in soft water five or six hours before 
planting, and if the ground be dry it should be watered 
in the drills. 

Gardeners practice different m^des of planting Peas ;. 



PEAS. 63 

some plant them m ridges, others in drills, some in 
single rows, others in double, some use sticks for the 
dwarf kinds, and others not ; those who study neatness 
should have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish 
may do without. 

All the different sorts of Peas may be planted in 
double or single rows from four to six feet apart, ac- 
cording to the different heights they may be expected 
to grow. If two drills be made three inches deep, and 
six or eight inches apart, and the seed dropped along 
each drill moderately thick, they will yield betterthan 
single rows, and will save sticks. When the plants 
are two or three inches high let them be hoed, draw- 
ing at the same time a little earth up to their stems, 
when they get to double that height let them be hoed 
again, at the same time place a row of sticks in the 
middle of your double roAvs, and a few shorter and 
smaller ones on the outside of each row, to assist the 
Peas in climbing to the main support. You must be 
governed as to the length of your sticks by the de- 
scription of your peas. There is a great advantage 
in having sticks of a suitable height, to the various 
kinds of peas ; the sticks should not only be suffi- 
ciently tall but also branchy, that the plants may 
readily take hold ; and they should be prepared fan- 
fashion, so that the side branches may extend only 
along the rows. As the plants progress in growth, 
let them be repeatedly hoed and earthed up ; this will 
promote a plentiful bearing. 

To have green peas in perfection, they should be 
gathered while young, and <;ooked immediately after 
they are shelled, or they will soon lose their colour 
and sweetness. The Sugar Peas have no inner tough 
film or skin to the pods, like the common sorts, they 
should therefore be boiled without shelling, and served 
up the same as Kidney Beans. 



64 POTATOES. 

POTATOES. 
PoMME DE TERRE. Solanum tuberosuu^ 

The Potatoe is known to be a native of the Southern 
parts of America, but has been greatly improved by 
cultivation. The varieties being very numerous, it is 
unnecessary for me to point out any particular kinds ; 
some of the earliest should, however, be planted first 
in the Spring, to produce young potatoes in due season, 
but they are not so suitable for a full crop as the late 
varieties. 

Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various 
expedients have been contrived with a view to find 
out the best method of preparing the seed. In many 
parts of England (where potatoes equal to any in the 
world are raised,) the farmers never plant them whole ; 
they take the potatoes as they come to hand, and in 
cutting them take care to have two good eyes in each 
set ; the small potatoes are deprived of the sprout or 
nose end, as it is generally considered that a redun- 
dancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak 
plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. 
I have frequently known from five to six hundred 
bushels raised from an acre with small potatoes alone, 
cut in this way. Some prefer planting the sets imme- 
diately after they are cut ; the better way is to get 
them cut a week before the time of planting, and to 
lay them out^on a barn or garret floor to dry. 

Potatoes may be planted from the first week in 
April until July, either in hills or drills ; the best way 
for a garden is to plant them in drills four or five 
inches deep, and about thirty inches asunder ; the sets 
may be dropped six or eight inches apart, and if a 
small quantity of combmaker's liorn shavings, or sea 
weed, be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will 



POTATOE, SWEET. 66 

expedite their growth ; the ground should be hoed as 
soon as the plants come up, and as they progress in 
growth, it will be proper to mould or earth them up 
twice. 



POTATOE, SWEET. 

POMME DE TERRE DOUCE. CoTlVolvuluS batataS. 

Sweet potatoes are grown in great perfection in the 
Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of. 
New York by means of a hot-bed ; they should be 
planted whole, early in April, three or four inches 
deep, and about the same distance apart. In about a 
month they will throw up sprouts. When these are 
three inches above ground, part them off from the 
potatoe, which, if suffered to remain, will produce 
more sprouts for a successive planting ; transplant 
them into rich light soil, in rows four feet apart and 
the plants about a foot apart, in the rows, or in hills 
four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until the 
vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will 
grow freely. In sandy ground, it is well to put a 
shovel full of rotten manure to each plant. 

A moderate hot-bed five feet square put down early 
in the month of April, with half a peck of good 
sound sweet potatoes placed therein, will produce a 
succession of sprouts in May and June, which if planted 
and managed as directed, will yield about fifteen 
bushels of sweet potatoes. 



1(55 puMPKm. 

PUMPKIN. 
CiTROUiLLE ou PoTiRON. Cucurbita pepo. 



Large Cheese. 

White Bell. 

Finest Yellow Family. 



VARIETIES. 

Connecticut Field. 

Large, or Mammoth. 

Seven Years, or Long Keeping* 



This plant is highly deserving cultivation, particu- 
larly in new settlements ; the large sorts are very 
profitable for cattle, as some of the mammoth tribe 
have been known to weigh upwards of two hundred 
pounds each ; the other kinds are also very produc- 
tive, and may be raised on any waste lands, provided 
it will admit of digging small spots, of a foot or two 
dimensions, every ten or twelve feet, for the hills, and 
that the residue of the ground be unincumbered for the 
plants to run on. They are generally raised on culti- 
vated farms, between hills of Indian Corn, and may be 
planted in the garden or open field, in May or June, 
in hills eight or ten feet apart, with two or three seeds 
in a hill. They are not so tenacious of a particular 
soil as either Melons or Cucumbers, but, in other re- 
spects are cultivated in the same manner, only that in 
raising them on a large scale, the ground may be pre- 
pared with a plough, and also afterwards, as the weeds 
advance, the plough and harrow may be used between 
the plants until they begin to run, which will save 
much labour. 

The finest quality Pumpkins are known to make 
good pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked 
up with wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose 
they are fully equal to Indian meal. The knowledge 
of this fact may prove advantageous to farmers living 
at a distance from cities, as they may find a market 
for their grain or meal easier than for their Pumpkins, 



PATIENCE DOCK AND RADISH. 67 

PATIENCE DOCK. 
Rhubarbe des MOINES. Rumez palieniia. 

The Rumex Patientia is perennial ; the leaves are 
large, long and succulent, and are by some very much 
esteemed. The plant may be propagated by offsets 
from the root, taken off in the Spring, or late Autumn 
months, and planted in rows eighteen inches asunder, 
and eight inches from one another in the rows. If the 
jseed be sown in October or November, it will rise 
freely in the Spring, or it may be planted in March or 
April, in drills one inch and a half deep, and eighteen 
inches apart, and afterwards thinned to the proper 
distance. 



RADISH. 
Radis ou rave. Raphanis saiivus, etc. 



VARIETIES. 



Early Frame. 
Early Scarlet Short Top. 
Long Salmon. 
Scarlet Turnip. 
White Turnip Rooted, 



Long White Naples. 
Purple Turnip. 
Yellow Turnip, 
White Spanish. 
Black Spanish. 



The different varieties of Radishes are extensively- 
cultivated near large cities, chiefly for the roots, which 
are considered a luxury after a hard winter, and prove 
acceptable as the warm weather approaches, provided 
Jthey can be obtained in perfection. The plant is also 
cultivated for the sake of the seed leaves, which are 
used as a small salad ; and even the seed pods, if 
pickled while young and green, are by some considered 
a good substitute for Capers. 

Those who may be desirous of having good Ra- 
dishes early ip the Spring, should have a warm border 



68 ROCAMBOLE. 

prepared in the very best manner, so as to be ready t&> 
sow some of the Short Top Scarlet by the middle of 
March. If the ground should not be in good condition 
to receive the seed at this time, let it be delayed a few 
days, and by the first of April take care to have 
another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging 
in some good strong manure. The seed may be sown 
broadcast, and raked evenly in. If you wish to have 
Radishes in regular succession, sow seeds of the most 
esteemed kinds every two weeks until the middle of 
May : if any be sown after this, it should be the sorts 
described in the second column of our catalogue. 
These will endure the heat better than the others, and 
may be sown in drills in small quantities throughout 
the Summer, until the latter end of August, when all 
the kinds may be sown in regular succession until the 
first of October. Market gardeners may prepare the 
ground with a plough, and cover such seeds as may be 
sown broadcast with a harrow. 



ROCAMBOLE. 
Ail d'espagne. Allium scorodoprasum. 

This and the Allium Sativum, or common Garlic, is 
raised in some gardens. Many people consider the 
Rocambole to be of a milder and better flavour, but 
the bulbs are not so large as those of the Garlic. 

This is a very hardy plant, and will grow in almost 
every soil or situation. It is propagated either by the 
roots or seeds ; the former ought to be separated and 
planted at the same time, and in the same manner, as 
Shallots. 

"When raised from seed, they may be sown in drills, 
either shortly after the seeds are ripe, or in the suc~ 



BHUBARB. 69 

ceeding Spring ; they require only to be kept clear of 
weeds, and in the following Autumn may be taken up, 
the bulbs parted, and planted as before. 



RHUBARB. 
Rhubarbe. Rheum. 

Rhubarb is a genus of exotic plants, comprising 
seven species, of which the following are the principal. 

1. The Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb, a native 
of Thrace and Syria, which has long been cultivated 
in British gardens for the footstalks of the leaves, that 
are frequently used in pies and tarts. 

2. The Rheum undulatum is also cultivated for the 
same use. 

3. The Palmatum, or true Officinale Rhubarb, is a 
native of China and the East Indies, whence its culture 
has been introduced into Europe ; it produces a thick 
fleshy root, externally yellowish brown, but internally 
of a bright yellow colour, streaked with red veins. It 
grows to good perfection in Scotland, as far north as 
Perthshire, (lat. 5Q,') also in England, Turkey, and 
various other parts of Europe. When the importance 
of this root is considered as a medicine, it is a matter 
of astonishment that it has not been more generally 
introduced into the United States. 

The several kinds of Rhubarb may be propagated 
by oflfsets, taken from the roots early in the Spring, 
or from seed sown late in the Fall, or in March and the 
early part of April. The indispensable points to the 
production of good roots of the Palmatum, are depth 
and richness of soil, which should be well pulverised 
before the plants are set out. Prepare beds oi fine 
mould eighteen inches deep j in these put in the plant* 

7* 



70 RHUBAEB. 

from the seed bed, ten or twelve inches apart ; this 
must be done when they have attained the height of 
four or five inches, and have thrown out as many- 
leaves. 

The first season is the most critical, and much care 
is necessary. If the weather be hot, the nursery must 
be shaded, and at all events continually watered ; for 
water, though hurtful to old plants, is now of the first 
consequence. Wet weather is the most proper time 
to plant in. The beds must be kept free from w^eeds 
through the Summer, and on the approach of severe 
w^eather, covered up with dry litter. In the early 
part of the Spring this must be taken off, and in the 
beginning of April the plants must be transplanted into 
ground dug and prepared as directed for Asparagus. 
Those wi)o cultivate the Palmatum for the sake of the 
roots, should dig the ground two or three spades deep, 
and place the plants three feet apart every way. As 
to the other kinds it is not so particular, so as the plants 
have room to grow. In the early part of November, 
the leaves being then decayed, the beds should be 
covered with dry litter ; before this is done, a little 
earth should be drawn round the crowns of the plants. 
If there be any danger of w^ater lodging, make trenches 
to carry it off. In the month of March the beds should 
be stripped of their covering, and the ground well 
hoed and cleared of weeds. 

The roots of the Palmatum must not be taken up 
until six or seven years old. The stalks of the other 
kinds may be cut every Spring, as soon as the leaves 
are expanded. After being stripped of their outer 
covering and cut up into small pieces, they are used in 
pies and tarts. Cobbett supposes, "that a hundred 
wagon loads of Rhubarb stalks are annually sold in 
the markets of London, at a shilling sterhng per 



SALSIFY. 



71 



bunch." (American Gardener.) Rhubarb makes an 
excellent preserve when cut into small pieces about 
an inch and a half long;, and parboiled with sugar. 

If Rhubarb stalks be required for use early in the 
Spring, they may be obtained by placing flour barrels 
or deep tubs over some of the plants, and covering 
them up with fresh stable dung, or by any of the 
methods pointed out in the article under the head of 
Forcing Vegetables. 

In England, large drying houses have been erected, 
for the purpose of curing the roots of the Palmatum ; 
but this business may be done in this country as it is 
done in China: by the heat of the sun. After the 
roots have been well washed, the small fibres should 
be cut off. These are then cut transversely into pieces 
of about two inches thick, and dried on boards, turning 
them several times a day, in order to prevent the 
escape of the yellow juice, on which its medicinal 
qualities depend. In four or five days, they may be 
strung upon strings, and suspended in a shady, but 
airy and dry situation, and in two months afterwards 
they will be fit for the market. 



SALSIFY. 
Salsifis ou Cercifis. Tragopogon porrifolius. 

This plant grows spontaneously in the open fields 
in England, and is by some highly valued for its white 
eatable root, and for the young shoots rising in the 
spring from plants a year old ; these, when gathered 
while green and tender, are good to boil and eat in 
the manner of Asparagus. Some have carried their 
fondness for this plant so far as to call it Vegetable 



72 SCORZONERA. 

Oyster. It requires the same kind of soil and ma- 
nagement as carrots and parsnips. The seeds may be 
sown the latter end of March, or early in April, an 
inch deep in drills twelve inches apart. When the 
plants are two or three inches high, they should be 
thinned to the distance of six inches from each other, 
and afterwards hoed. The ground should be kept 
clean and loose round the plants, by repeated hoeings ; 
and in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots 
may be taken up late in the fall, and secured in moist 
sand from the air ; or be suffered to remain out, and 
dug up when wanted. 

The mode of cooking recommended by an American 
author is, ''to cut the roots transversely into thin 
pieces ; boil them in water, or milk and water ; when 
boiled soft, mash them and thicken the Avhole with 
flour to some degree of stiffness ; then fry them in the 
fat of salt pork or butter ; they are a luxury." In 
England the tops are boiled, and served up with 
poached eggs, &c. 



SCORZONERA. 

ScoRSONERE. Scorzonera Hispanica. 

This plant has long been raised in British gardens 
for culinary purposes, and especially as an ingredient 
in soups, on account of its palatable and nourishing 
roots. Some boil and eat them like carrots, &c. ; in 
which case, they should be deprived of their rind, and 
immersed in cold water for half an hour, or they will 
be bitter. They are raised precisely in the same 
manner as Salsify. If the seed be sown in April, in 
a good deep soil, the roots will attain perfection in 



SEA-XALE. 73 

autumn, and continue good all the winter. They last 
from three ,to four years, according to the quality of 
the earth and care bestowed on them ; but it is ])etter 
to raise a few from seed every year. 



SEA-KALE. 
Chou MARIN. Cramhe maritima. 

This plant is found on the sea-shore in the southern 
parts of England, where it grows spontaneously. As 
soon as it appears above ground, the inhabitants re- 
move the pebbles or sand with which it is usually 
covered to the depth of several inches, and cut off the 
young and tender leaves and stalks, asyetunexpanded 
and in a blanched state, close to the crown of the root ; 
it is then in its greatest perfection. When the leaves 
are full grown, they become hard and bitter, and the 
plant is not eatable. 

It is cultivatetl in private gardens, and for Sale in 
various parts of England. Cultivators have differed 
widely respecting the mode of treating this plant; 
many conceiving that stones, gravel, and sea sand, 
are essential to its growth, have gone to the expense 
of providing it : but it has been discovered that it will 
grow much more luxuriantly in a rich sandy loam, 
where the roots can penetrate to a great depth. 

The seeds of Sea-Kale may be sown in October, or 
as early in the Spring as the ground can be brought 
into good condition, in drills an inch and a half deep, 
and fourteen or sixteen inches asunder ; the plants 
should be afterwards thinned out to the distance of 
six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and 
kept clear of weeds by frequent hoeings through th(^ 



74 SEA-KALE. 

summer. When the plants are a year old, every 
third row may be taken up, and also every other plant 
in each row, leaving them fourteen or sixteen inches 
apart ; these may be transplanted into good ground 
prepared as directed for Asparagus. Plant two rows 
in each bed, about eighteen inches apart; the best 
way is to make two drills three inches deep, and with 
a dibble set in the plants fifteen or sixteen inches from 
each other ; when these drills are filled, the crowns of 
the plants will be covered nearly two inches, but they 
will soon push through the earth. The plants left in 
the seed bed may form a permanent bed, which should 
be forked or dug between the rows ; previous to this 
being done, lay on an inch or two of good rotten 
manure, and incorporate it with the earth around the 
plants. 

Some make new plantations with pieces of old roots, 
which should be cut up in lengths of about two inches, 
and planted in March or April, three or four inches 
deep, at the distances before directed for the plants. 

At the approach of winter, the leaves will dio away 
and disappear. The beds should be then thickly 
covered with dung, leaves or sea weed ; this will not 
only protect the plants from frost, but will cause them 
to shoot up early in the spring. As soon as the frost 
is out of the ground, this may be taken ojQf, or if well 
rotted, it may be mixed up with the earth ; the 
crowns of the plants should then be covered to the 
depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching. 

Some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand ; some, 
common sand and gravel ; and others with large gar- 
den pots inverted, and placed immediately over the- 
plants. If ihese pots be covered up with fresh horse 
dung, it will forward the shoots in growth, and mak«t 
them sweeter and more tender. 



SEA-KALE. 76 

When your plants have been covered in either 
method three or four weeks, examine them, and if 
you tind that the stalks have shot up three or four 
inches, you may begin cutting ; should you wait till 
all the shoots are of considerable length, your crop 
will come in too much at once, for in this plant there 
is not that successive growth which there is in As- 
paragus ; you may continue cutting until you see the 
heads of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time you 
uncover it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in 
which Broccoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you 
will find it an excellent substitute ; and this greatly 
enhances the value of the plant ; as Broccoli does not 
stand our Avinter frost, and can only be had when 
carefully protected, as recommended under that head; 
but this plant is sufficiently hardy to bear our winter^s 
frost without much injury. You are not to weaken 
the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case it 
would injure their next year's bearing; some of the 
shoots should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper 
vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great 
care should be taken in cutting, not to injure the 
crowns of the roots by cutting the shoots too close to 
them. Sea-Kale should be dressed soon after is cut, as 
the goodness of the article greatly depends on its not 
being long exposed to the air. 

If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all 
round a small bed, about three feet wide and thirty 
inches deep ; fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks, 
raise it." This will make the plants grow ; and if hand 
lights are set over them, it will accelerate their growth. 



76 SORREL. 

SORREL. 
OsEiLLE DES JARDINS. Rumux acetostt. 

The seeds of the Broad Leaved EngHsh Sorrel, and 
also of the Round Leaved or French Sorrel, may be 
sown in April and May, in beds or borders, and 
covered lightly. When the plants are up, keep them 
free from weeds ; they may be afterAvards thinned to 
the distance of nine inehes from each other, or trans- 
planted into fresh ground. 

The old standing roots of either kind may be sepa- 
rated and planted for increase ; this should be done in 
April. As fast as the plants shoot up to seed, cut 
them down close, and a new crop of leaves wiilbe 
produced. It is used raw as a salad, or boiled for 
greens. 



SKIRRET. 
Chervis, ou Gyrole. Sium sisarum. 

This plant is cultivated first by seed, and afterwards 
by offsets taken from the old roots, and planted very 
early in the spring, and before they begin to shoot ; 
but it is best to raise a small bed from seed every 
year, as the roots grow longer than those raised from 
slips, and are less liable to be sticky. The seed may 
be sown in drills the latter of March, or early in 
April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnips, &c. 
In Autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots 
will be fit to use, and continue so till they begin to 
«hoot in the Spring. 

Skirrets should be planted in a light moist soil, for 
In dry land the roots are generally small, unless the 



SHALLOT. 



7-^ 



season proves wet. The root of the Skirret is com- 
posed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a man's 
finger, and joining together at the top. They are 
eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper and salt, 
or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold with oil and 
vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the 
taste and flavour of a Parsnip, but a great deal more 
palatable. 



SHALLOT. 
EcHALOTE. Allium Ascalonicum. 

The true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is 
considered to possess the most agreeable flavour of 
any of the Allium genus ; it is consequently highly 
deserving of cultivation. They are propagated by 
planting bulbs or offsets in the fall of the year, which 
may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve inches 
apart, by four to six inches distance in the rows ; or 
they may be placed in drills two or three inches deep, 
and covered up with a trowel or hoe. The gardeners 
about New-York plant large quantities of the bulbs 
early in September ; by this means they are enabled 
to supply the markets in April and May with a Mild 
Allium which meets a ready sale. 

After the tops die down, the bulbs must be taken 
up, and the offsets divided : '^a portion of these should 
be kept in a dry place to plant the ensuing autumn. 



78 BPINACH. 

SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 
Epinard. Spinacia, 

VARIETIES. 

Round Leaved. I Flanders, or Large Leaved. 

Prickly, or Angular Leaved. | Holland, or Lamb's Quarter. 
New Zealand, or Tetragona Expansa. 

The Spinacia Oleracea, or common Spinach, is very 
hardy, and consequently a very important vegetable 
for cold climates. It merits attention from its being 
extremely v^holesome and palatable, and from its keep- 
ing green even after having been cooked. Tt makes 
a delicious dish when served up with the gravy of 
roast meat, melted butter, &c. 

As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised 
to advantage the latter end of the year, the gardener 
should prepare such ground as may have been occu- 
pied by Summer crops towards the end of August ; and 
by having it well manured, it will be in good condition 
for Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c. the Spring 
following. If the ground be got ready, so as to have 
several beds sown in succession from the first to the 
end of September ; the forwardest of these, if covered 
up with straw at the approach of cold weather, will 
furnish greens for the table when other vegetables are 
scarce, and the latter crops will recover the effects of 
a hard winter, and produce a wholesome vegetable 
early in the spring. 

If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March 
and April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut 
before the approach of hot weather, or it will run to 
seed. To raise it in perfection at this season, it should 
be sown in drills about a foot apart, and kept culti- 
vated by frequent hoeing ; this will keep it in a 
growing state, and consequently prevent its running 
up to seed so quick as it otherwise would. 



SQUASH. 79 

It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor 
ground ; let the ground be well manured, ^yiih. good 
strong dung, and it will well reward you for your 
trouble by its abundant produce. 

The New Zealand Spinach is of late introduction 
into this country ; its natnre seems to be opposite to 
the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat better 
than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, by 
planting the seeds in April and May. Being of luxu- 
riant growth, it should be planted in hills three feet 
apart, and about two seeds in a hill. The leaves will 
be fit for use during the summer, and until late in the 
fall. 



SaUASH. 

Gourde Giraumon ou Potiron Cucurbita 

melopepa» 



Early Bush Squash. 
Early Crookncck. 
Large Summer Bell. 



VARIETIES. 

Vegetable Marrow, 
Winter Crook Neck. 
Lima Cocoa JNut. 



The several varieties of Squashes are very useful 
in this and other warm climates, as they can be grown 
in perfection in the summer, and therefore prove a 
good substitute for Turnips, which cannot be raised 
in perfection in hot weather. They should be planted 
in hills, prepared in the same manner as for Cucum- 
bers and Melons, and their subsequent management is 
the same in every respect. The bush kinds should 
be planted three or four feet apart, and the running 
kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, as 
some will run more than others. It is always best to 
plant five or six seeds in a hill, to guard against acci- 



80 TOMATO. 

dents ; as when the plants are past danger, they can 
be thinned to two or three in a hill. The fruit of the 
Early or Summer Squashes should be gathered for use 
before the skin gets hard, and while it is so tender as 
to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb nail. 
The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and 
collected together in October, in the manner recom- 
mended in the calendar for that month. 



TOMATO. 

ToMATE, ou PoMME d'amour. Solanum Lycoper- 

sicu?n, 

varieties. 

Large Squash Shaped, | Cherry Shaped. 

The Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for 
its fruit in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an 
agreeable acid flavour ; and is also stewed and dressed 
in various ways, and very much admired. 

The seeds should be sown early in March, in a 
slight hot-bed, and the plants set out in the open 
ground, if settled warm weather, in the early part of 
May. In private gardens it will be necessary to plant 
them near a fence, or to provide trellises for them to 
be trained to, in the manner recommended for Nastur- 
tiums ; they will, however, do very well if planted out 
four feet distant from each other every way. 

Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the 
Summer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the 
first week in May ; these plants will be lit to trans- 
plant early in June. 



TURNIP. 81 

TURNIP. 

Navet. Brassica rapa. 



VAKIETIES. 

Earlv Garden Stone. 
Early White Dutch. 
Swans' Ego;. 
EarJy Red Top. 
Early Green Top. 
Yellow Stone. 
Yellow Maltese, 



Large English Norfolk. 
Long Tankard, or Hanover. 
White Flat, or Globe. 
Large Bullock. 
Yellow Altringham. 
Dale's Yellow Hybrid. 
Yellow Aberdeen. 



Long YeHow French. J p 1 Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Baga. 

This is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man 
and beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. Its 
being the last esculent vegetable on our catalogue, 
that is raised from seeds sold at our several seed stores, 
I shall endeavour to stimulate those of our yeomanry 
who have hitherto neglected the culture of this field, 
as well as garden production, to exertion and diligence, 
by inserting a few short extracts from a paper that 
now lies before me. The following statement relates 
to a country that contains only about sixty millions of 
acres, capable of cultivation, and which supports up- 
wards of twenty millions of human beings, besides 
millions of brutes, from the products of its soil ; she 
also exports vast quantities of some kinds of produce 
from this source . 

" Culture of Turnips. — Until the beginning of the 
eighteenth century, this valuable root was cultivated 
only in gardens, or other small spots for culinary pur- 
poses; but Lord Townsend, who attending King 
George the First in one of his excursions to Germany, 
in the quality of Secretary of State, observed the 
Turnip cultivated in open and extensive fields, as 
fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over lands 
naturally barren, on his return to England, brought 
over some of the seed, and strongly recommended the 

8* 



82 TURNIP^ 

practice which he had witnessed, to the adoption of his 
own tenants, who occupied a soil similar to that of 
Hanover. The experiment succeeded ; the cultivation 
of Field Turnips gradually spread over the whole 
county of Norfolk, and has made its way into every 
other district of England. The reputation of the 
county as an agricultural district, dates from the vast 
improvements of heaths, wastes, sheep walks, and 
warrens, by enclosing and manuring ; the fruits of the 
zealous exertions of Lord Townsend and a few neigh- 
bouring land owners, which were ere long imitated 
by others. Since these improvements were effected, 
rents have risen in that county from one or two 
shillings to twenty shillings an acre ; a county, con- 
sisting chiefly of sheep walks and rabbit warrens, has 
been rendered highly productive, and by dint of ma- 
nagement, what was thus gained, has been preserved 
and improved even to the present moment. Some of 
the finest corn crops in the world are now growing 
upon land, which, before the introduction of the 
Turnip husbandry, produced a very scanty supply of 
grass for a few lean and half-starved rabbits. 

" Mr. Colquhoun, in his 'Statistical Researches,' 
estimated the value of the Turnip crop annually grow- 
ing in the united kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland 
at fourteen million pounds sterling, (equal to upwards 

of SIXTY MILLIONS OF DOLLARS.) But whcU We 

further recollect, that it enables the agriculturist to 
reclaim and cultivate land, which without its aid, 
would remain in a hopeless state of natural barrenness, 
that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition, and 
also to insure a good crop of Barley and a kind plant 
of Clover, and that this Clover is found a most excel- 
lent preparative for Wheat, it will appear that the 
subsequent advantages derived from a crop of Turnips 
must infinitelv exceed its estimated value as fodder for 



TURNIP. 8S 

cattle.^* (Sir William Scott in the Quarterly Review.) 
As I have undertaken to ''assist the Young Gar- 
dener," I shall proceed to point out the most proper 
means of cultivating this truly valuable vegetable in 
his garden. 

The preceding remarks show the kind of land that 
may be made capable of producing not only Turnips, 
but other things of equal value. It must however be 
granted, that some soils naturally suit particular kinds 
of vegetables better than others, and that in general, 
exotic plants will succeed best in such soils as are 
nearest like their own native soil. As we have not 
always a choice, I would inform the Young Gardener, 
if he has a very light soil which is not suitable for 
vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops 
of Turnips from it in one year, by sowing seed for the 
first crop early in March, and that for his second, in 
the middle of August. For general crops it will be 
better to have ground manured with short rotten dung, 
or compost, containing a considerable proportion of 
coal, wood, peat, or soaper's ashes. Ground that has 
been well manured for preceding crops, and also ground 
fresh broken up, will suit well for Turnips. 

Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should 
procure a suitable quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco 
dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. 
It should be recollected that Turnip seed will some- 
times sprout within forty -eight hours after it is sown, 
and that very frequently whole crops are devoured 
before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either 
of these ingredients, mixed with about an equal quan- 
tity of ashes, or even dry road dust, sown every morn- 
ing or evening for the first week after sowing the seed, 
would secure an acre of ground, provided it be so 
contrived that the wind carry it over the whole piece 
of land, and as it often changes, this may be effected. 



84 TURNIP. 

by crossing the land in a different direction every time, 
according as the wind may serve. As some very 
erroneous ideas have been extensively circulated in 
respectable periodicals, respecting the cultivation of 
this valuable root, I Avould earnestly recommend that 
particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the 
seed, for if the first crop be not sown soon enough to 
be gathered early in July, they are seldom fit for the 
table, being hot, stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop 
intended for Autumn and Winter use, be sown long 
before August, unless it be a very favourable season, 
if even they escape the attacks of insects and reptiles, 
they often get so defective, that they seldom keep the 
Winter. To have Turnips in perfection, they should 
be hoed in about a month after they are sown, or by 
the time the plants spread a circle of about four inches, 
and again, in about a month from the first hoeing, 
leaving them from six to nine inches apart; they will 
yield the cultivator more profit this way, than when 
left to nature, as is too frequently done. 

The most esteemed kinds of Turnips for gardens, are 
marked in the catalogue, I shall therefore leave my 
readers to their own choice. 

As the Yellow Swedish or Russian Turnip, or Ruta 
Baga, is in great repute, I shall quote a few lines from 
the American Gardener, by William Cobbett, the great 
advocate for Ruta Baga. 

*^The Swedish Turnip, so generally preferred for 
table use here, and so seldom used for the table in 
England, ought to be sown early in June, in rows 
at a foot apart, and thinned to three inches in the rows. 
About the middle of July they should be transplanted 
upon ridges three feet apart, (in a garden) and during 
their growth, ought to be kept clear of weeds, and to 
be dug between twice at least, as deep as a good spade 
can be made to go. But the Swedish Turnip is of 



BOP. 85 

further use as producing most excellent greens in the 
Spring, and at a very early season. To draw this 
benefit from them, the best way is to leave a row or 
two in the ground, and when the winter is about to 
set in, cover them all over with straw or cedar boughs. 
Take these off when the winter breaks up, and you 
will have very early and most excellent greens ; and 
when you have done with the greens, the Turnips are 
very good to eat." 

If the seed of the Russia Turnip be sown in drills 
in the month of July, or even early in August, 
they will make fine roots by Autumn without trans- 
planting, provided the ground be good and well 
worked. When the plants are up strong, they must 
be hoed and thinned to the distance of twelve or fifteen 
inches from each other, another hoeing will be ne- 
cessary in five or six weeks afterwards. This will 
make them grow freely. 



HOP. 
HouBLON. Humulus lupulus. 

Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, as it 
is more or less used in every part of our country, it 
may not be amiss to treat of its culture. It is pre- 
sumed, that in proportion as habits of temperance are 
inculcated, our citizens will have recourse to beer as a 
wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal depends on 
the manner in which Hops are cured, I purpose giving 
directions for their management throughout, so as to 
enable those who choose, to prepare their own. My 
information is collected chiefly from Loudon's Ency- 
clopaedia of Plants. 

The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknowi>, 



86 HOP. 

length of time for its flowers, which are used for pre- 
serving beer. Its culture was introduced from Flan- 
ders in the reign of Henry the Eighth ; though in- 
digenous both in Scotland and Ireland, it is little 
cultivated in those countries, owing to the humidity 
of their Autumnal season. Like other plants of this 
sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; 
the female plants, therefore, are alone cultivated. 
There are several varieties grown in Kent and Surrey, 
under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, 
&c. ; the first is the most hardy, diff"ering little from 
the wild or Hedge Hop ; the Goldings is a very im- 
proved highly productive variety, but more subject to 
the blight than the other. The Hop prefers a deep 
loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a sheltered situation, but 
at the same time not so confined as to prevent a free 
circulation of air. The soil requires to be well pul- 
verised and manured previous to planting. In Hop 
districts, the ground is generally trenched either with 
a plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally 
in rows six feet apart, and the same distance in the 
row. Five, six, or seven plants, are generally placed 
together in a circular form, and at a distance of five or 
six feet from each other. The plants or cuttings are 
procured from the most healthy of the old stools ; each 
should have two joints or buds ; from the one which is 
placed in the ground springs the root, and from the 
other the stalk. Some plant the cuttings at once 
where they are to remain, and by others they are 
nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of Beans 
or Cabbages is generally taken the first year. Some- 
times no poles are placed at the plants till the second 
year, and then only short ones of six or seven feet. 
The third year the Hop generally comes into full 
bearing, and then from four to six poles from fourteen 



HOP. 87 

to sixteen feet in length are placed to each hill. The 
most durable timber for poles is that of the Spanish 
Chesnutj which is much grown in Kent as coppice 
wood for that purpose. The after culture of the Hop 
consists in stirring the soil and keeping it free from 
weeds ; in guiding the shoots to the poles, and some- 
times tying them for that purpose with bass or withered 
rushes ; in eradicating any superfluous shoots which 
may arise from the root, and in raising a small heap of 
earth over the root to nourish the plant. Hops are 
known to be ready for gathering when the chaffy- 
capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consis- 
tence. Each chaff'y capsule, or leafed calyx, contains 
one seed. Before these are picked, the poles with the 
attached stalks are pulled up, and placed horizontally 
on frames of wood, two or three poles at a time. The 
Hops are then picked off" by women and children. 
After being carefully separated from the leaves and 
stalks, they are dropped into a large cloth hung all 
round within the frame on tenter hooks. When the 
cloth is full, the Hops are emptied into a large sack, 
which is carried home, and the Hops laid on a kiln to 
be dried. This is always done as soon as possible after 
they are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable 
damage, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to 
remain long in the green state in which they are 
picked. In very warm weather, and when they are 
picked in a moist state, they will often heat in five or 
six hours ; for this reason the kilns are kept constantly 
at work, both night and day, from the commencement 
to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. The 
operation of drying Hops is not materially different 
from that of drying malt, and the kilns are of the same 
construction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, 
from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the 



B8 HOP* 

season is dry or wet, and the Hops ripe or immature^ 
When the ends of the Hop stalks become quite shri- 
velled and dry, they are taken off the kiln and laid on 
a boarded floor till they become quite cool, when they 
are put into bags. 

The bagging of Hops is thus performed ; in the floor 
of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a 
round hole or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop 
bag. After tying a handful of Hops in each of the 
lower corners of a large bag, which serve after for 
handles, the mouth of the bag is fixed securely to a 
strong hoop, which is made to rest on the hedges of 
the hole or trap ; and the bag itself being then dropped 
through the hole, the packers go into it, when a person 
who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in small 
quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity 
of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. 
When the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so 
hard that it will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed 
from the hoop, and the end sewed up, other two han- 
dles having been previously formed in the corners in 
the manner mentioned above. The brightest and 
finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bag- 
ging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. 
The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and 
the latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are 
intended to be kept two or three years, they are put 
into bags of strong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to 
exclude the air. 

The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to 
the operation of picking. The shoots or bind being 
stripped ofi*, such poles as are not decayed are set up 
together in a conical pile of three or four hundred, the 
centre of which is formed by three stout poles bound 



liOP. 89 

together a few feet from their tops, and their lower 
ends spread out. 

The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as 
that of the Hop ; in a good season an acre will pro- 
duce 20 cwt. but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered i 
tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops is esti^ 
mated by the abundance or scarcity of an unctuous 
clammy powder which adheres to them, and by their 
bright yellow colour. The expenses of forming a Hop 
plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it 
will continue so for ten or fifteen years before it re- 
quires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to 
diseases ; when young it is devoured by fleas of differ- 
ent kinds ; at a more advanced stage it is attacked by 
the green fly, red spider, and otterraoth, the larvae of 
which prey even upon its roots. The honey dew often 
materially injures the Hop crop ; and the mould, the 
fire-blast, and other blights injure it at different times 
towards the latter period of the growth of the plant. 

The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops 
are considered by some as very wholesome, and are 
frequently gathered early in the Spring, boiled, and 
eaten as Asparagus. The stalk and leaves will dye 
wool yellow. From the stalk a strong cloth is made 
in Sweden, the mode of preparing which is described 
by Linneeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction of the 
roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsapariila ; 
and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow 
filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended 
with the bad effeets of soporifics which require to be 
taken internally. 



90 HORSE-RADISH AND MUSHROOM. 

HORSE-RADISH. 
Raifort. Cochlearia Armoracia. 

This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, 
either cut from the top an inch or two long, or some 
old roots cut into pieces of that length, or by offsets 
that arise from the sides of the main root, retaining 
the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible. 
These should be planted as early in the spring as 
practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight 
inches from each other in the rows. The ground 
should be well manured and dug two spades deep, and 
the cuttings shotild be sunk full ten inches with the 
crowns upright ; this being done, level the surface of 
the ground, and afterwards keep it free from weeds 
until the plants are full grown. With this manage- 
ment the roots will be long and straight, and the 
second year after the planting will be fit for use. They 
may be taken up the first year, but then the roots will 
be slender, therefore it is the better way to let them 
remain till the second. If in taking up the roots some 
offsets be left in the ground, they will produce a suc^ 
cessive supply for many years. 



MUSHROOM. 
Champignon comestible. Agaricus campestris. 

The Agaricus is said to be the most extensive genus 
in the vegetable kingdom. The species are deter- 
mined upon various principles. As some of the kinds 
are poisonous, it is necessary to describe the eatable 
Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most readily distin- 
guished, when of a middle size, by its fine pink or 
flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. In a more 



MUSHROOM. 91 

advanced stage, the gills become of a chocolate colour, 
and it is then more apt to be confounded with other 
kinds of a dubious quality ; but that species ■which 
most nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, and 
destitute of the fine odour, having rather a disagreeable 
smell. Again : the noxious kind grows in woods, or 
on the skirts of w^oods, while the true Mushroom 
springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be 
gathered only in such places. Unwholesome fungi 
will sometimes spring up on artificial beds in gardens; 
thus, when the spawn begins to run, a spurious breed 
is often found to precede a crop of genuine mushrooms. 
The baneful quality of the toad-stool, Agaricus virosus, 
is, in general, indicated by a sickly nauseous smell, 
though some hurtful sorts are so far without any thing 
disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, 
drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome 
kinds, however, invariably emit a grateful rich scent. 
The Agaricus campestris is most generally cultivated: 
Dr. Withering mentions other eatable varieties, which 
run considerably larger, but which are inferior in 
flavour ; he says, " that a plant of the variety Geor- 
gia, was gathered in an old hot-bed at Birmingham, 
which weighed fourteen pounds, and Mr. Stackhouse 
found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a 
stem as thick as a man's wrist.'* Mushrooms may be 
obtained at any season of the year, by a proper regu- 
lation of the time and manner of forming the beds. A 
good crop is sometimes collected without making a 
bed on purpose, by introducing lumps of spawn into 
the top mould in old hot-beds. 

The methods of procuring and propagating spawn, 
and of forming Mushroom beds are numerous. Indi- 
genous spawn may be collected in pasture lands in 
September and October, or it may be found in its 



92 MUSHROOM. 

strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by 
horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter ; it 
is frequently to be found in old hot-beds and dunghills, 
in the summer season, and mushrooms of good quality 
may often be seen beginning to form themselves on 
tlie surface, like large peas ; when these are observed, 
it is time to take out the spawn, which is generally in 
hard dry lumps of dung, the spawn having the ap- 
pearance of whitish coarse pieces of thread. The true 
sort has exactly the smell of a Mushroom. If spawn 
thus collected be required for immediate iise, it may 
be planted in the beds at once, or it will keep three or 
four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, 
and afterwards placed in a warm dry shed, where there 
is a current of air; but if it be not completely dried, 
the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not 
bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. 

Such of my readers as may have hitherto been un- 
acquainted with the cultivation of the Mushroom, 
must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a 
Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and 
earth, so tempered as to be capable of producing and 
preserving spawn ; but in order to have fruitful spawn 
at all times, it should be so formed as to be always at 
command. .To this end, a quantity of fresh horse 
droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; 
add to tliis one- third of cow dung, and a small portion 
of earth, to cement it together ; mash the whole into 
a thin compost, like grafting clay ; then form it in the 
shape of bricks, which being done, set them on edge, 
and frequently turn them until half dry ; then with a 
dibble make one or two holes in each brick, and insert 
in each hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg ; thp 
bricks should then be laid where they can dry gra- 
dually. When dry, lay dry horse-dung on a level floQjTj, 



MUSHROOM. 93 

six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile the bricks the 
spawn side uppermost. When the pile is snugly 
formed, cover it with a small portion of warm fresh 
horse-dung, sufficient in quantity to diffuse a gentle 
glow throughout the whole. When the spawn has 
spread itself through every part of the bricks, the 
process is ended, and they may be laid up into any dry 
place for use. Mushroom spawn, made according to 
this receipt, will preserve its vegetable powers for 
many years, if well dried before it is laid up : if moist, 
it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. 

Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the 
open air, covored with litter and mats, so as to prevent 
heavy rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes 
in ridges of the same sort under cover, as in the open 
sheds of hot-houses. They are also made in close 
sheds behind hothouses, or in houses built on purpose, 
called Mushroom-houses. A moderately warm light 
cellar is peculiarly suited for the purpose in the winter 
season, as no fire is necessary, and but little water, the 
application, of which frequently proves injurious, 
when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may be 
also raised" in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in 
warm situations; in old hot-beds, in pits with. glass 
frames, and in dark frames or pits. 

The general way of making Mushroom beds, is to 
prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fermented, 
to the thickness of about a yard, more or less, accord- 
ing to the size and situation in which the bed is to be 
formed ; when the strong heat has subsided, an inch 
of good mould may be laid over, and the spawn 
planted therein in rows five or six inches apart ; after 
this is done, another layer of mould, an inch thick, 
may be applied, and then a coat of straw. Beds well 
constructed, will produce Mushrooms in five or six 

9* 



^ MUSHROOM', 

weeks, and will continue to produce for several montli% 
if care be taken, in gathering, not to destroy the young 
ones. As Mushrooms are gathered, from time to time, 
the straw should be spread carefully over the bed. 

Beds made in a convenient place where there is 
space all around, may be formed so as to make four 
slopmg surfaces, similar to the roof of a house ; this 
by being spawned on the four sides will yield abun- 
dantly. The celebrated Mr. Nicol makes his beds 
without spawn. The following are his directions, 
taken from Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gardening. 

"After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, 
gravel, or brick bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry, 
and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-drop- 
pings six inches thick. These should be new from the 
stables, and must not be broken, and the drier the 
better. They may be collected every day until the 
whole floor or sole be covered to the above thickness ; 
but they must not be allowed to ferment or heat. In 
the whole process of making up, the bed should be as 
much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be 
carefully defended from wet, if out of doors. When 
this course is quite dry, and judged to be past a state 
of fermentation, cover it the thickness of two inches 
with light dry earth ; if sandy so much the better. It 
is immaterial whether it be rich or not : the only use 
of earth here being for spawn to run and mass in. Now 
lay another course of droppings, and earth them over 
as above, when past a state of fermentation : then a 
third course, which in like manner earth over. This- 
finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and 
productive one if properly managed afterwards. Ob- 
serve, that in forming the bed, it should be a little 
rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet. 
or moist than the sides,. This may be done in forming; 



MUSHROOM. 9^ 

the sole or floor at firsts a^d the bed would then be of 
equal strength in all parts. If it be made up against a 
wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope 
of a few inches from the back to the front, less or more, 
according to its breadth. I have sometimes been con- 
tented with two courses as above, instead of three ; 
and often when materials were scarce, have made 
them up slighter, thus : three four-inch courses of 
droppings, with one inch of earth between each, and a 
two -inch covering at top. Such a bed as this I have 
had produce for ten or twelve months together ; but 
very much depends on the state of the materials, and 
on the care taken in making it up, also on the after 
management. The droppings of hard-fed horses only 
are useful. Those of horses kept on green food will, 
of themselves, produce few or no mushrooms. I have 
made up beds from farm horses, fed partly on hard and 
partly on green food, and from carriage or saddle 
horses, fed entirely on corn and hay ; treated them in 
the same way in every respect; and have found, not 
once, but always, those made from the latter most 
productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be 
procured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in 
the country, any time of the year ; and if the supply 
be plentiful, a bed of considerable dimensions may be 
made and finished within five or six weeks. In as 
many more weeks, if in a stable or dry cellar, or a 
flued shed, it will begin to produce, and often sooner ; 
but if the situation of the bed be cold, it will sometimes 
be two or three months in producing Mushrooms." 

It may be necessary ta state further, that extremes 
of heat, cold, drought and moisture, should be avoided 
in the cultivation of Muslirooms. If the temperature 
keeps up to 50* in the winter, beds will be safe, and 
the heat in the beds may rise to 60 or even 70 without 
injury. Air also must be admitted in proportion to 



9^ MUSHROOM. 

the heat, and 60^ should be aimed at as a medium 
temperature. Water when given a little at a time, is 
better than too much at once after the spawn has 
begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose should 
always be made blood warm. A light covering of 
straw may be always used to preserve moisture on the 
surface ; and if the beds be made in open frames, or 
otherwise subject to exposure, the straw may be laid 
thicker than on beds made in a cellar. Should beds fail 
in producing Mushrooms, after having been kept over 
hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn is injured 
or destroyed; but if on the contrary a bed that has 
been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen 
to be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished 
with warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid 
over the whole ; if this does not enliven the bed after 
having lain a month, take off the earth, and if on ex- 
amination there is no appearance of spaAvn, the whole 
may be destroyed, but if on the contrary the bed should 
contain spawn, it may be renovated by covering it 
again, especially if any small tubercles be discernible, 
but if the heat should have declined, the spawn may 
be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds be formed 
in hot-bed frames, under glass, some mats or straw 
must be laid over the glass to break off the intense 
beat of the sun. 

Although only one species of edible fungi has yet 
been introduced into the garden, there are several 
eatable kinds. In Poland and Russia there are above 
thirty sorts in common use among the peasantry. 
They are gathered at different stages of their growth, 
and used in various ways ; raw, boiled, stewed, roasted, 
and being hung and dried in their stoves and chimneys, 
form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Great 
caution is necessary in selecting any species of this 



AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HEEBS. 97 

tribe for food, and none but the Botanist should search 
for any but the sort we have described. Physicians 
say, that all the edible species should be thoroughly 
masticated before taken into the stomach, as this greatly 
lessens the eflfects of poisons. When accidents of the 
sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, 
and then the vegetable acids should be given, either 
vinegar, lemon juice, or that of apples ; after which, 
give ether and antispasmodic remedies, to stop the 
excessive bilious vomiting. Infusions of galnut, oak 
bark, and Peruvian bark are recommended as capable 
of neutralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms. 
It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the 
well known kinds, until they have been soaked in 
vinegar. Spirits of wine and vinegar are calculated 
to extract some part of their poison. 



AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. 

GrAINES d'HeRBES AROMATiaUES, ODORIFERANTES 
ET A L'USAGE DE LA CUISINE. 

Anise, Pimpinella anisum. 

Basil Sweet, Ocymum basilicum. 

Bush Easil, do minimum. 

Borage, Borago officinalis. 

Caraway, Carum carni. 

Clary, Salvia sclara. 

Coriander, Coriandrum sativum. 

Dill, Jinelhum groveolens. 

*Fennel, Common,. do. foemculum. 

* do. Sweet, do. dulce. 
Marigold, Pot, Calendula officinalis. 
"'^Marjoram Sweet,. Origanum marjorana^ 
*Mint, Spear, Mentha virides. 

* do. Pepper^ do. piperita. 

* do. Fennyroyal'„ ' fCo. puiegium. 



9S AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERB&. 

*Sage, Common, Salvia officinalis. 

Savory, Summer, Satureja hortensis. 

* do. Winter, do'. monlaria. 
Smallage, Upturn graveolem. 
•*=Tarragon, Artemisia dracunculus.. 
-•*=Thyme, Common, Thymus vulgaris. 

* do. Lemon, do. serpyllum. 

Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy 
odour and savoury taste ; many of them are used as 
small pot herbs, and for sauces, stuffings, and other 
uses in cooking. As only- a small quantity of these 
are necessary in private gardens, a bye corner may 
be allotted for them, and such medical herbs as may 
be wanted in a family. 

It may be necessary for me to explain, as we go 
along, that there are three principal descriptive names 
given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and 
Perennials. The annuals being but of one season's 
duration, are raised every year from seed. The bien- 
nial kinds are raised from seed one year, continue till 
the second, and soon after die ; some of these should 
be also raised every year from seed. The perennials 
may be also raised from seed, but when once raised, 
they will continue on the same roots many years. 
Those marked * are of the latter description, and may 
be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings or partings 
of the roots. Those who have not already a planta- 
tion of these herbs, may sow seeds of any of the 
diflferent kinds in March or April, in drills about an 
inch deep and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. 
The plants may be afterwards transplanted into sepa- 
rate beds ; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two 
feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the 
plants afterwards thinned out to proper distances, 
according to the natural growth of the different kinds, 
of plants. 



Medicinal hebbs. 



99 



PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL 
PURPOSES, &c. 

Graines de Plantes Medicinal. 



Bonoset, or Thoroughwort, 

*Balm, 

Bean, Castor Oil, 

Burdock, 

Catnep, 

Celandine, 

*ChamomiIe, 

*Comfrey, 

^Elecampane, 

Feverfew, 

*Horehound, 

*Horseaiint, 

* Hyssop, 

* Lavender, 
liovage or Smellage, 
*Mallow, Marsh, 
*Pinkroot, Carolina, 
Poppy Opium, (annual,) 
*Roseinary, 

*Ruo, Garden, 

*Scullcap, or Mad Dog Plant, 

*Snake Root, Virginian, 

^Southernwood, 

*Speedwell, Virginian, 

^Spikenard, 

*Tansey, 

♦Wormwood, 



Evpatorium pcrfoliaturn. 
Melissa officinalis. 
Ricinus communis. 
Arctium lappa. 
Nepeta cataria. 
Chelidonum majus. 
Aiithemis nobilis. 
Symphytvm officinale. 
Inula Helenium. 
Matricaria Parthenium, 
Marubium vulgare. 
Monarda punctata. 
Hysopus officinalis. 
Lavandula spica. 
Lisusticum levisticum. 
Althca officinalis. 
.Spigelia Marilandica. 
Papaver snmniferum. 
Rosmarinus officinalis. 
Rut a graveohns. 
Scutellaria Lateriflora, 
Aristolochia serpcntaria. 
Artemisia abrotanum. 
Veronica Virginica. 
Aralia racemosa. 
Tanacetum vulgare. 
Artemisia absinthium. 



The generality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal 
Herbs, may be raised from seed sown in March and 
April. The greater part of the above described plants 
are perennial, and will multiply from seeds they drop, 
or from partings of the roots. The offsets, roots, or 
young plants thus raised, should be planted at suitable 
distances from each other early in the spring. The 
beds should be afterwards kept free from weeds, and 
as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a 



100 AROMATIC, SWEET, AND MEDICINAL HERfiS. 

dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for -wintet 
use. [The best way to preserve them after they are 
dried, is to rub them so as to pass them through a 
sieve, then pack them in bottles or boxes, each kind 
by itself; they should be afterwards kept in a dry 
place.] In the month of October, the beds should 
be examined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender 
herbs should be taken up, potted and placed in a frame 
or greenhouse for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, 
Winter Savory, Southernwood, Sage, Rue, and the 
like, will require their tops to be neatly dressed ; and 
Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansey, Penny- 
royal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, 
Lovage, and other kinds of hardy perennial herbs 
should be cut down close to the ground. After this, it 
will be proper to dig lightly and loosen the ground 
between the roots of the shrubby plants ; but the beds 
of close-growing running plants, such as Mint, Run- 
ning Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not 
well admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are 
cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the 
alleys and strew some of the loose earth evenly over 
the beds ; and if the ground be rather poor or light, a 
top dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable 
service. 

This dressing will give proper nurture and protec- 
tion to the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the 
whole, and in spring the shoots will rise with renewed 
vigour. 

Having finished the catalogue, I proceed to give 
directions for making the most of a piece of ground 
well manured for early crops. In the general direc- 
tions at the commencement, I observed that good rich 
manure was indispensably necessary to the production 



PLAN OF BEDS, &C. 101 

of some particular kinds of vegetables ; it may be 
further observed, that rich ground will produce two 
or three valuable crops, but it requires some attention 
to make use of it to the best advantage. If the gar- 
dener has leisure to dig his ground in March or April, 
that he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, 
Egg Plants, or other tender plants, he may raise 
Radishes, Spinach, lettuce, or other Salads on it, by 
leaving a space for his hills or drills ; or radish seed 
may be sown lightly over beds of Beets, Carrots or 
Parsnips, but they must not be suffered to run to 
seed, as this would injure the other plants. When the 
first crops are gathered, it requires a little consideration 
before a second is planted, in order that a sufficient 
quantity of the best of the ground be reserved for the 
most particular and valuable kinds of vegetables. 
That I may be understood, I have adopted the 
following plans, representing beds of earth ; this will 
answer the same purpose as bringing my readers on 
the ground : 



No, 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart 



March 25.— Sow Parsley, or other small herbs. 




feow Kadish Seed. 




Sow Parsley, or other small heri-s. 





The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the 
intermediate ground for the other plants. 

10 



102 PLAN OF BEDS, &C. 



No. 2. Drills ten inches apart: 




April 1 — Sow Spinach, or Radish Seed. 




24— Plant Early Cabbacre Plants. 






1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish Seeds. 



By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the 
ground, the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. 

If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle 
of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnips, or 
Black Radishes. If tiic Cabbage be late heading kinds, 
the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of 
Spinach, Fetticus, Lettuce, &c. in which case it will 
require a fresh coat of manure. 



i\o. 3 Rows or drills tiiirlien iiii-lie:> a)>;n-l : 






March 20.— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. 




Do. Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



Hoe them the first week in April — previous to 
hoeing the second time, draw a drill between each row 
of plants, and plant beet or carrot seed; this may 
be covered up in hoeing the Lettuce, and by the time 
the plants are up strong, the Lettuce will be fit to cut. 
If these roots are well attended to, they may be cleared 



PLAN OP BEDS, &C. 103 



off soon enough to produce fall Cabbage, Leeks, 
Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. 

'"jNo. 4. Rows or drills sixteen iiiclits apart. ~~" 



March 25— Plant Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



i-fo. Hardy Lettuce Plants. 



April 20. — Plant early York Cabbage Plants, either between 
the rows or lip'ween the Lettuce. 



As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and 
it will soon cover the ground. 

This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the 
kinds above-mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of 
which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be 
planted with Cabbage twice in succession. 

The above, or preceding plans, present a fair speci- 
men of what may be done on a small piece of good 
ground. If the young gardener will take the trouble 
to keep an account of his transactions, he would soon 
make discoveries of still greater importance. If he 
be not sufficiently acquainted with the different kinds 
of Cabbage Plants, for instance, so as to distinguish 
the one from the other, he, by making a memorandum 
at the time of sowing the seed, would soon get ac- 
quainted Avith the different kinds of plants ; he would 
also discover the difference in the growing of his seeds, 
and know who to blame if any particular kind should 
not come up. 



104 



HOT-BEDS. 



The following represents a Hot-Bed with four sashes, sown 
March 1st. 



( 

Thorburn's. 


Smith's Early 


Bridgeman's 


Tomato and 


Early York. 


Battersea Cab- 


Early 


Egg-Plant 
Seeds, in 


Cabl)age Seed. 


bage Seed. 


Lettuce Seed. 


shallow drills. 



It may be necessary to remind my readers of the 
necessity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, 
Egg-Plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seeds in hot-beds 
the last week in February or early in March ; for this 
purpose, let some fresh stable dung and rich compost 
be engaged beforehand. Some gardeners make their 
beds on the level ground, but it is always safest to 
make them in pits from eighteen inches to two feet 
deep ; in order to do this, the pits should be dug in the 
fall, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground 
intended for the beds before the frost sets in ; by this 
means the ground will be preserved from frost, and 
good earth may be obtained from the pits without any 
difficulty. 

The fresh dung should be spread regularly in the 
pits to the depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; it the 
dung be in a good heating condition, cover it with six 
or eight inches deep of mould ; then lay on the sashes, 
and protect the beds from the inclemency of the 
weather. In two or three days the rank steam may 
pass oft*; it will then be necessary to stir the mould 



FORCING VEGETABLES. 105 

before the seeds be sown, to prevent the growth of 
young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the 
seeds as equally as possible, reserving a small quan- 
tity of the warm mould to be sown or sifted over the 
seeds. The beds should be afterwards attended to as 
directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. This description 
of hot-bed is intended expressly for the raising of 
spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such other 
plants as may be required for early planting. Beds 
made earlier in the season, or for fjrcing, will require 
a greater substance of manure. See calendar for 
January February and March. 



OBSERVATIONS ON FORCING VEGETABLES. 

Before I commenced preparing this work for the 
press, I intended to have written largely on the 
subject of forcing fruits, as well as vegetables; but 
when I considered my motto, and that I was writing 
for young gardeners, I concluded to occupy my pages 
in such a manner as to effect the greatest possible good, 
at the smallest expense. Of the several branches of 
Horticulture, some are of greater importance than 
others; and as the products of the kitchen garden 
form important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, 
it should be our first care to treat largely on the sub- 
ject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to 
this is the cultivation of fruits, and the production of 
ornamental plants and flowers, each of whicli will be 
noticed as we proceed. As T stand pledged to offer 
fsome remarks on forcing, or rather forwarding vege- 
tables by artificial means, I shall endeavour to confine 
my observations to such points as are of primary im- 
portance ; and in order to convince my readers of the 

10* 



106 FOKCINC VEGETABLES. 

importance of my subject, I shall first endeavour to 
show the utility of an aitificial climate suited to the 
various kinds of useful plants. In England, a regular 
succession of vegetables can be obtained from the 
natural ground in every month of the year, and their 
fruits, from the summer heat being moderate, are of 
longer continuance than with us, and yet they make 
gardening a science, and employ the elements, as w^ell 
as the ingenuity of man, to the production of fruits 
and vegetables out ofthe ordinary season. 

I shall not attempt to treat ofthe cultivation of Pine- 
Apples, Grapes, Cherries, or other fruits grown in 
forcing houses ; nor w^ould it be advisable with us to 
undertake to raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c. in frames 
throughout our severe winters; but it must be ac- 
knowledged, that the extreme heat of our summers 
are as detrimental to the cultivation of some of the 
most valuable kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the 
coldness of our winters, and for those reasons, artificial 
aid is more necessary here in the winter and s[)ring of 
the year .than in England. The inhabitants of that 
country may obtain a supply ofthe different varieties 
of Artichokes. Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauli- 
flower, Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, 
Turnips, and Salads in general a great part of the 
year, and Cabbages, Coleworts, &c. the whole ofthe 
year, from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we Avere 
to attempt to supply our markets with culinary vege- 
tables at all times, in any thing like the abundance 
that they have them there, we must turn our attention 
to the protecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing 
system. 

Before 1 proceed to show the method of forcing 
vegetables, it may be necessary for me to remind my 
readers, that in providing an artificial climate, thej 



FORCING VEGETABLES. 107 

should consider the nature of the plants they intend to 
cultivate, and endeavour to supply them with that 
which is best calculated to nourish and support them. 
I have, in another part of this work, endeavoured to 
show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are each 
essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- 
plied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. 
In the midst of our winters, which is the usual time 
for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west 
winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we 
have not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, 
it will not be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom 
heat under any kind of vegetable, until such times as 
he can impart a tolerable share of salubrious air, as the 
heat without air will soon destroy the fruits of his 
labour. Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing 
in frames, is soon after the middle of February, and 
the early part of March. I before hinted, that the 
depth of heating materials must be regulated by the 
season of the year at which the work is commenced, 
and also to the purposes for which the hot beds are 
intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising half- 
hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in 
the spring, may be made in the manner recommended 
for the common hot-bed ; but if substantial heat is 
required to be kept up, the beds must be so contrived 
as to admit of linings as the heat decreases; and the 
dung should undergo a regular process of preparation, 
according to the use it is intended for. Compost heaps 
should also be provided, in order to furnish suitable 
mould to the different kinds of plants ; for this pur- 
pose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan, 
turf, sand, and other liglit manures and decayed animal 
dung, should be collected together. 
In some cases when a slight hot-bed is recommended 



108 FORCING VEGETABLES. 

for forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a 
seedling cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer 
every purpose for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy 
plants ; or such a bed may be spawned for Mushrooms, 
if required. 

If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of 
the winter is past, great precaution must be used lest 
the plants should be injured by cold cutting winds, or 
destroyed by heat for want of air. To prevent the 
former accident, warm dung should be placed around 
the frames, and the sashes should be covered with 
mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be 
admitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden 
down to let off the steam, at the same time the mats 
may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air 
entering to the plants. 

If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is 
sometimes the case, means must be used to decrease 
it. Tliis is generally effected by making holes in the 
bed with a stake sharpened at the end, or with a 
crow-bar; which holes should be filled up when the 
heat is sufficiently reduced. In lining hot-beds, if the 
heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes may be 
carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings, 
so as to enliven the heat of the bed. 

A Fahrenheit Thermometer should be always at 
hand, at the time of forcing, to be used when necessary, 
to regulate the heat in the beds ; and the water that is 
used in cultivating plants in frames, should be warmed 
to the temperature of the air, or according to the heat 
required for the various kinds of plants, which will be 
shown in the different articles, as we proceed. 



FORCING ASPARAGUS. 109 

FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-REDS. 

This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found 
growing wild in Russia and Poland, where it is eaten 
by the cattle as grass. It will endure the severity of 
our winters, and produce its buds, by then the Aveather 
gets mild; but as garden products are generally 
scarce after a hard winter, the gardener who studies 
his interest Avill make the most of the spring season, 
and raise all he can before the markets become glutted ; 
to this end he is recommended to prepare for forcing 
this vegetable as soon as the coldest of the winter is 
past. 

As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by 
extreme bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, 
and with less trouble in flued pits, in a hot-house than 
in dung hot-beds, because the heat from tan is more 
regular ; but a very suitable bed may be formed in a 
4eep hot-bed frame, made in the usual way. If dung 
alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves be used, it 
should be in a state past heating violently before it is 
made into a bed; but if the gardener has no choice of 
materials, he may make his hot -bed in the usual way, 
and if the depth of heating materials be two feet, he 
may lay on a foot of old hot-bed dung, tan or any 
light compost, that will admit of the heat passing 
through it. It may be necessary to state further, that 
though too much bottom heat should be avoided ; heat 
is necessary to the production of the vegetable in a 
moderate time, which is generally effected in a month 
or six weeks after the commencement of the operations. 
For the purpose of keeping up a regular heat, a lining 
of hot dung should be applied around the frame, and 
changed as occasion requires. Provide plants from 
two to four, or even six years old, trim their roots, 
and place them in rows on the beds ; when one row is 



110 



FORCING ASPARAGUS. 



laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then pro- 
ceed in the same Avay with one row after another, 
keeping them on a level, as the surface of the bed at 
first, lay till you have finished planting them ; then 
lay among the buds and roots some fine vegetable,'or 
other rich mould, working it in amongst them with 
your fingers, and cover the beds over about one inch 
thick, and above that lay three inches in depth of 
vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan or any other 
light compost that will admit the water to run quickly 
through. If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide 
down tlie sashes till it begins to decline. The tem- 
perature at night should never be under 50, and it may 
rise to 65 without injury; when buds begin to appear, 
as much air must be daily admitted as the weather will 
permit. In two or three days after the beds are planted, 
the heat will begin to rise ; the beds should then have 
a moderate supply of water applied from a watering 
pot, with the rose on ; repeat such waterings every 
three or four days. By the time the buds have come 
up three inches above the surface, tliey are fit to gather 
for use, as they will then be six or seven inches in 
length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of the 
mould, slip down the finger and thumb, twist them off 
from the crown ; this is a better method than to cut 
them ; at least it is less dangerous to the rising buds> 
which come up thick in succession. — An ordinary 
sized frame calculated for three sashes will hold from 
three hundred to five hundred plants according to the 
age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish 
every day for about three weeks. On the above esti- 
mate if a constant succession of Asparagus be required, 
it will be necessary to plant a bed every eighteen or 
twenty days. 
Rhubarb and Sea Kale may be, and sometimes are 



FORWARDING AND FORCING BEANS. Ill 

forced in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the 
most general mode is to excite them av here they stand 
in the open garden, by the application of warm dung. 



FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH 
DWARFS. 

In the article, Broad Bean, vicia faba, page 20, I 
have urged the necessity of early planting, in order 
that a full crop may be insured before the approach of 
warm weather; but as the ground is often frozen at 
the time that they ought to be planted, some of the 
best kinds may be planted in boxes, and placed in a 
moderate hot-bed in February, or early in March. If 
the plants thus raised be not nursed too tender, they 
may be transplanted into the open ground the latter 
end of March ; this will enable them to produce their 
fruit early in June. Or if a heap of manure be spread 
thick on a piece of ground late in the Autumn, it will 
keep the earth from freezing, and if this manure be 
removed in February, and a frame placed over and 
protected from extreme cold, the seedlings may bo 
raised therein, and transplanted as before directed. 



FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. 

The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be 
raised in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat 
to mature them. The temperature within the frame 
should be kept up to 60, and may rise to 70 or 75S 
provided the steam is let off. In order to insure suffi- 
cient heat to bring them into a bearing state, the 
plaats may be first raised in small pots plungeil into a 



112 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. 

hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared, earthed over 
with light rich compost, six inches deep ; and the 
beans planted therein, and covered one inch. The 
second hot -bed should be earthed over to the depth of 
eight or nine inches ; and the beans transplanted as 
soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross 
rows twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or four 
inches in the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When 
the season is so far advanced that one bed, with the 
help of linings, will bring the plants well into fruit, 
the seed may be planted at once to remain for podding; 
or if the gardener should choose to mature his crop in 
the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or 
pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a 
warm border early in May. Eeans raised in hot beds, 
will require considerable attention ; — cover the glasses 
every night Avith mats and boards; admit fresh air 
every mild day, give occasional gentle waterings, and 
earth th^m up carefully as they progress in growth, to 
strengthem them. 



FORWARDING BROCCOLI & CAULIFLOWER. 

In treating of the method of cultivating this family 
of plants, in the articles, pages 26 and 29, I recom- 
mended that an artificial climate be provided for them, 
so as to induce them to arrive at full perfection in the 
winter and early part of the spring. Such gardeners 
as may have provided frames for the purpose of mak- 
ing hot-beds in the spring, may make use of them 
through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cauli- 
flower ; and as the frames Avill not be wanted until the 
severity of the winter is past, such plants as may be 
left at that season, may be protected by a covering of 
boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may require. 



FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCtMBERS. 118 

If Cauliflower be required early in the summer, the 
plants raised in the preceding Autumn should be 
transplanted from the beds into the open ground in the 
month of March, and be protected by hand glasses. 
This would insure their heading before the approach 
of extreme warm weather, which is very injurious to 
CauUflower. 



FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS. 

To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should 
be an object of emulation with every gardener. The 
business of forcing them should commence about eight 
or ten weeks before the fruit is desired, and a succes- 
sion of plants should be raised to provide for accidents. 
Some choose the short prickly, others, the green clus- 
ter, and southgate ; and seed that is two or three years 
old, is generally preferred, as it is not so apt to run to 
vines. The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of 
light rich mould, and placed in a hot bed ; and some 
sow the seeds in the earth of a small bed prepared for 
the purpose. In either case, as soon as the plants have 
fully expanded their two seed leaves, they may be 
transplanted into pots ; put three plants in each pot ; 
when this is done, apply water warmed to the heat of 
the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them a 
little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass, till the 
plants have taken root. When they are about a month 
old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruiting 
bed. 

Well preparing the dung, is of the greatest impor- 
tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before 
it is made into a bed, it cannot be done after, as it 
requires turning and managing to cause it to ferment 
freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable 
should be laid into a heap, turned three times, and 

11 



114 FORCIN© AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS. 

well mixed with a fork; if any appears dry, it should 
be made wet, always keeping it between the two ex- 
tremes of wet and dry, that the Avhole may have a 
regular fermentation. A dry situation should be chosen 
for the beds to be formed on, so that no water can 
settle under the dung. The substance of dung from 
the bottom of the bed should be from three to four feet, 
according to the season of planting, and the moulding 
should be done as soon as the bed is settled, and has a 
lively regular tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly 
over the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has lain 
a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning 
effect are discovered, by the mould turning of a whitish 
colour, and caking, it will be fit to receive the plants ; 
but if the earth appears burnt, or of a rank smell, some 
fresh sweet mould should be provided for the hills, and 
placed in the frame to get warm, at the same time, 
vacancies should be made to give vent to the steam, 
by running down stakes. After the situation of the 
bed has been ascertained, and the heat regulated, the 
holes should be closed, and the earth formed into hills ; 
raise one hill in the centre under each sash, so that the 
earth is brought to within nine inches of the glass ; in 
these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out such as 
may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their 
roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the 
middle of each hill. The plants should be imme- 
diately watered with water heated to the air of the 
bed, and kept shaded till they have taken root. 

The temperature should be kept up to 60, and may 
rise to 80^ without injury, providing the rank steam 
be allowed to pass off; therefore, as the heat begins to 
decline, timely linings of well prepared dung must be 
applied all round the frame ; begin by lining the back 
part first ; cut away the old dung perpendicularly by 
the frame, and form a bank two feet broad, to the 



FORCING AND FORWARDING CUCUMBERS 115 

height of a foot, against the back of the frames : as it 
sinks, add more ; renew the linings around the re- 
mainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be 
careful to let off the steam and give air to the plants at 
all opportunities. Give necessary waterings, mostly 
in the morning of a mild day, in early forcing; and in 
the afternoon in the advanced season of hot sunny 
weather. Some use water impregnated with sheep or 
pigeons' dung. As the roots begin to spread, and the 
vines to run, the hills should be enlarged, by gathering 
up the earth around them, and a supply of good mould 
should be furnished to gather up as required, for earth- 
ing around the plants. 

When the plants have made one or two joints, stop 
them, after which they generally put forth two shoots, 
each of which let run till they have made one or two 
clear joints, and then stop them ; and afterwards con- 
tinue throughout the season to stop them at every 
joint; this Avill strengthen the plants, and promote 
their perfecting the fruit early. 

The following artificial operation is recommended 
by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential 
to the production of a full crop of cucumbers under 
glass. In plants more freely exposed to the open air, 
the impregnation is effected by nature. Those which 
some call false blossoms, are the male flowers, and are 
useful in this operation. 

"The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, "bears 
male and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. 
The latter only produce the fruit, which appears first 
in miniature, close under the base, even before the 
flower expands. There is never any in the males; 
but these are placed in the vicinity of the females, and 
are absolutely necessary, by the dispersion of their 
farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; the fruit of 



116 FORWARDING CUCUMBERS. 

which will not otherwise swell to its full size, and the 
seeds will be abortive. The early plants under glass, 
not having the full current of natural air, nor the as- 
sistance of bees and other winged insects to convey the 
farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary 
to effect the impregnation. At the time of fructifi- 
cation, watch the plants daily ; and as soon as the- 
female flower and some male blossoms are fully ex- 
panded, proceed to set the fruit the same day, or next 
morning at farthest. Take off a male blossom, de- 
taching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this be- 
tween the finger and thumb ; pull away the flower 
leaf close to the stamens ami anther^> or central part 
which apply close to the stigma or bosom of the female 
flower, twirhng it a little about, to discharge thereon 
some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus 
to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, 
while of a lively full expansion; and generally per- 
form: it in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, 
if possible, for each impregnation, as the males are 
usually more abundant than the female blossoms. In 
consequence the young fruit will soon be observed to 
swell freely. Cucumbers attain the proper size for 
gathering in about fifteen, eighteen, or twenty days 
after the time of setting ; and often in succession for 
two or three months or more, in the same beds, by 
good culture." 



FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND 
GLASSES. 

If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open gar- 
den at an early season, the plants may be raised in, 
pots gis before directed, and planted in a warm borde.rr 



FORWARDING LETTtTCE. 117 

either in the earth, or in hot bed ridges. A hand glass 
should be provided for each hill, which should be kept 
close down every night, and in cool days, taking care 
to admit air when practicable. The plants may be 
hardened by degrees by taking off the glass in the heat 
of the day, and as the weather gets warm they may be 
left to nature. 



FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN 

WINTER. 

Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the Win- 
ter season, by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds 
made in the manner recommended for the raising of 
early Cabbage plants, &c. (see article Cabbage.) For 
such Head Lettuce as may be wanted for use before 
Christmas, the Hardy Green, Dutch, and'Egyptian 
Coss, are the most suitable kinds to sow, and plants 
may be raised in the open border by sowing seed two 
or three times between the middle of August and the 
first week in September. The plants from these sow- 
ings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold 
beds, by the time they are about one or two inches 
high. In September and early in October some of the 
Early Silesia, Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any 
other esteemed sorts, may be sown in a cold bed frame, 
which, with the aid of sashes, will produce plants m 
from a month to six weeks ; these being planted in 
gentle hot-beds, in November and December, will 
produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful supply can be 
obtained from the open borders. The same attention 
is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds, 
as for other half hardy plants. 



11* 



118 FORWARDING MELONS-. 

FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND 
GLASSES. 

Although our citizens have an opportunity of pro- 
curing the Melon without artificial aid, as their con- 
tinuance is short, it may not be amiss to remind the 
gardener that the directions already given for maturing 
Cucumbers under glass will apply to Melons, with 
very few exceptions ; care, however, must be taken 
that they be kept away from each other at the time of 
fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops being 
entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being 
raised too near each other. Those who may wish to 
forward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or 
April, to raise plants in ; the bed may be formed and 
the plants managed in precisely the same manner as 
is directed for Cucumbers. If the ridging system be 
adopted, and a hand-glass applied to each hill. Melons 
may be obtained one month earlier than the usual 
time. Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city 
markets may gratify the public, by pursuing the for- 
warding, if not the forcing system. Ridges may be 
prepared in the following manner : — In April or May, 
a trench may be dug in a warm border about two feet 
deep and three wide, and of sufficient length for as 
many hand glasses as are intended to be employed, 
allowing three feet for every hill. Some good heating 
manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same 
as a common hot-bed ; to this must be added good 
rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the 
plants to grow in ; as soon as the mould is warm the 
seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, 
after which the hand-glasses should be set on and 
shaded. After the plants have taken root and began 
to grow, the glasses should be raised in fine days and 
propped up so as to admit fresh air, and as the warm 



rORCriNG PEAS. 119 

weather progresses, they may be taken ofif in the mid- 
dle of fine days, so as to harden the plants gradually 
to the weather ; and by the latter end of May they 
may be left to nature. 

Melons or Cucumbers may be perpetuated from 
layers or cuttings of the early plants, if required. 



FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. 

The best sort of Peas to force, are the most dwarfish 
kinds, and the seed is better for being two or three 
years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less 
straw. The true early frame Pea, is generally pre- 
ferred, but Bishop's new early Pea is very dwarfish 
and prolific, and therefore suitable for forcing. Peas 
become more prolific and run less to vine by being 
transplanted, than when they are sown where they are 
to remain ; the plants may be raised in a gentle hot- 
bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots or boxes. 
Peas do not require excessive heat; the temperature 
must be progressive ; beginning at about 50^^ for the 
nursery bed, and from that to 60 or 65 for fruiting. 
When the leaves of the plants are fairly expanded, 
they may be transplanted in rows from twelve to eigh- 
teen inches apart; observe, the earth in the fruiting 
bed should be from twelve to eighteen inches in depth. 
As the Peas progress in growth, the earth should be 
stirred, and when six inches high, small sticks may 
be applied, so that the tendrils of the Peas may easily 
take hold ; and they should be moulded at the bottom 
to enable them to support themselves. When they 
appear in blossom, nip the top off; this greatly pro- 
motes- the forming and filling of the pods; they will 
require to be regularly watered^ and as the Spring- 



120 FORCING POTATOES. 

advances they may be exposed to the weather, taking 
care to shelter them in the event of a sudden change. 



FORCING POTATOES IN HOT-BEDS. 

Potatoes may be forced in a great variety of ways. 
Those who attempt to mature Potatoes in frames, will 
of course provide such of tho earliest kinds as are not 
inclined to produce large tops, the Broughton dwarf, 
early mule, and the oak, and the ash-leaved, are of 
this description. Potatoes may be forwarded in 
growth previous to their being planted in the beds by 
placing them in a warm damp cellar. Some forward 
them in pots or boxes, and afterwards mature them in 
a hot-bed ; others plant them in the bed at once, in 
which case the bed should be moulded from fifteen to 
twenty inches deep, and the heating materials should 
be sufficient to keep up a moderate heat for two or 
three months. Perhaps the most convenient way to 
force Potatoes in this climate is to provide pots for 
the purpose ; plant one set in each pot in January, set 
them in a warm cellar till a bed can be prepared in 
February, in this set in the pots. While the tuberous 
roots are formed and before they fill the pots, prepare 
the beds for maturing them, and then bury them in the 
mould with the balls of earth attached to them. 

The beds should be kept free from frost, and air 
should be given at every opportunity. The common 
round Potate may be forwarded, by laying them thick 
together in a slight hot-bed in March, and when they 
are planted in the borders, a quantity of comb-makers* 
shavings may be deposited in each hill, this will 
greatly promote their growth. 



FORCING RADISHES, RHUBARB, &C. 121 

FORWARDING RADISHES, &C. 
Radishes may be obtained early in the spring by 
means of a moderate hot-bed. The earth in the frame 
should be a foot in depth, and air should be admitted 
every day after they are up, or they will incline more 
to tops than roots. If they come up too thick, they 
should be thinned to between one and two inches 
apart. Give gentle waterings as occasion requires, 
and keep them well covered in cold nights. For 
raising early Radishes on ground not accommodated 
with frames, a hot- bed may be made and arched over 
with hoop bends or pliant rods, which should be co- 
vered Avith mats constantly at night, and during the 
day in very cold weather. In moderate days, turn up 
the mats at the warmest side ; and on a fine mild day, 
take them wholly off, and harden them gradully to the 
weather. Turnips, Carrots, Onions, or any kind of 
Salads, or pot herbs may be raised in the same way by 
sowing the seed in drills, and keeping the ground 
clear of weeds. 



FORWARDING RHUBARB. 

Those who may desire to have this excellent sub- 
stitute for fruit at an early season, may procure it 
without much trouble. It is customary with some 
persons in the Southern parts of England to keep this 
plant growing in their Kitchens, so that they may have 
it for use at any time. They have strong neat boxes 
made for the purpose, about three feet deep and two 
wide, and in length according to the demand, from 
four to eight feet; these being kept clean, have the 
appearance of flour-bins, and they are sometimes so 
contrived as to have shelves over them in imitation of 
Si kitchen dresser. The plants being taken up out o$ 



122 FORCING RHUBARB, &C. 

the garden towards winter, are placed as closeat the 
bottom of the box as they can be put, with their 
crowns level; and some sand being thrown over 
sufficient to fill up the interstices, and to cover the 
crowns about half an inch, finishes the operation. No 
further trouble is necessary, except to give a little 
water just to keep the roots moist, as they need no 
light at all, and if the roots be replanted in the garden 
when spring opens, they will, after having taken root, 
vegetate as strongly as before they were removed. 

Roots of Rhubarb being taken up in the autumn, and 
packed in sand deposited in a warm cellar, will pro- 
duce stalks earlier than if kept in the garden, and if 
placed in hot-beds they will yield abundantly, and 
that at a very early season. 

The following simple method of forcing vegetables 
on a small scale, is recommended by a correspondent 
of the London Magazine for June, 1828 ; 

" Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple 
though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet 
long, and one foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of 
horse droppings, perfectly dry ; some spawn and some 
light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, 
spawn, and soil, which must be trodden perfectly 
tight ; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, 
and all trodden firmly together, 

" Four such boxes at work, are sufficient for a 
moderate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought on at 
at a time, and placed upon the flue of a greenhouse 
stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of 
these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, 
and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is 
not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue 
of a hot-house : the kitchen cupboard, or any other 
similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also 



FORCING RHUBARB, &C. 123 

convenient for affording a plentiful stock of superior 
spawn. 

" The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; 
but for this purpose a sufficient stock of three year 
old plants must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four 
pf which are the necessary set to be forced at one time 
for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with de- 
cayed tanners' bark, leaf mould, or any other similar 
mould ; on this, pack in the roots as thickly as possible, 
and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place 
in a forcing-house will suit them ; on the flue under 
the stage, or in short, any place where they can enjoy 
the necessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and 
Mushrooms, Sea Kale, Rhubarb, Buda Kale, Angelica, 
Small Salad, as also other pot herbs, may be raised in 
the same manner." 

Those who have not the conveniences recommended 
in a greenhouse, &c., may place the boxes in a hot- 
bed. The glasses being laid on and the beds covered 
at nights, will soon promote the growth of the plants, 
and produce vegetable luxuries at a season when 
garden products in general are comparatively scarce. 

It is unnecessary to show of how much value such 
processes may be in minor establishments, or in a 
young country. I wish it to be understood, that in 
order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare 
vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken 
in every stage of their growth. If the advice I have 
given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon 
obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of the gar- 
den. My directions are founded on the success at- 
tending the practice of some of the best gardeners 
in this country. I have had also sufficient experience 
to warrant me in this attempt to contribute my 
mite towards the *< attainment of this kind of useful 
knowledge." 



124 HINTS 0I» COOKIiXG RARE VEGETABLES. 

HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 

In order to make this little work generally interest- 
ing to the female sex, for whose use the next fifty or 
sixty pages are chiefly intended, the following hints 
on cooking such sorts of vegetables as are not in daily 
use are submitted ; from a consciousness that a true 
estimate cannot be formed of the luxuries of the vege- 
table kingdom, unless their peculiar qualities be 
preserved in cooking. 

Artichoke. — This vegetable is esteemed as a 
luxury by epicures. To have it in perfection, the 
heads should be thrown into cold water as soon as 
gathered, and after having been soaked and well 
washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot with 
a little salt, and kept boiling until tender, which gene- 
rally takes, for full grown Artichokes, from an hour 
and a half to two hours. When taken up, drain and 
trim them; then serve them up with melted butter, 
pepper, salt, and such other condiment as may best 
suit the palate. 

Asparagus. — This is considered a'wholesome vege- 
table, and should not be kept long after it is gathered ; 
after being well washed, it may be tied in bundles of 
about a dozen buds each. Let the water be boiled 
with a portion of salt, and after having been skimmed 
put in the Asparagus, and watch until the stalks 
become tender, which will be in from twenty to thirty 
minutes ; take them up before they lose their true 
colour and flavour, and serve up on toasted bread, with 
melted butter, &c. 

Beans. — The English Broad Beans should be ga- 
thered young and shelled while fresh ; and after having 
been washed, let them be boiled in plenty of water 



HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 125 

with a little salt and a bunch of green parsley ; they 
take from thirty to forty minutes boiling, according to 
age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, 
&c. ; but they are very good when cooked and eaten 
with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon. 

Beaks, Kidncy. — These should not be suffered to 
get old and tough before gathered ; be careful in trim- 
ming them to cut off the stalk end first, and then turn 
to the point and strip off the strings ; put them into 
the Avater while boiling, w^iich should be previously 
seasoned with salt ; when they are tender, which will 
be in from fifteen to twenty minutes, take them up, 
and drain tliem through a colander, in order to render 
them capable of absorbing a due share of gravy, 
melted butter, &c. 

Beans, Lima. — These should be shelled while 
fresh, and boiled in plenty of water until tender, which 
generally takes from fifteen to twenty minutes. Some 
cook thein in the winter after having been dried, in 
which case they should be soaked in soft water for a 
few hours, and then put into the water cold and 
boiled until tender with a little salt ; but salted 
meat being boiled with them answers the same pur-^ 
pose, and makes them sweeter and more wholesome^ 
They are served up with butter, &c. 

Broccoli A.vD Cauliflower. — These delicious 
vegetable luxuries should be gathered while the pulp 
is close and perfect. After having trimmed off some 
of their outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of 
water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim the pot 
before putting the vegetables therein, and also to ease 
the cover so as not to confine the steam. Take them up 
as soon as the fok will enter the stems easily, which 
will be in from ten to twenty minutes accorditfg to their 
sizeaud age, dr.uu the^u so as to make them !^u^ceptible 



126 HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 

of absorbing; a due proportion of gravy, melted butter^. 
&c. this renders them a palatable and dainty dish. 

Cabbage, Colewort, Kale, and greens in general, 
should be put into hot water seasoned with salt, and 
kept boiling bnskly until tender. If you wish to pre- 
serve their natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash 
into the Avater, which also makes the coarser kinds of 
Cabbage more tender in the absence of salted meat. 

Egg-Pi.akt. — Select the fruit when at maturity. 
Cut them into slices and parboil them in a stewpan ; 
when softened, pour off the water, and drain them ; 
they may be then fried in batter made with wheaten 
flour and an egg, or in fresh butter with bread crum- 
bled fine, which may be seasoned before it is put into 
the pan with pepper, salt, thyme, and such other 
herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use Marjoram, 
Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, Garlick, &c. 

Parsnip. — Parsnips require from tliirty to forty 
minutes boiling, according to their size and age. Some 
boil them in water seasoned with salt until tender ; 
but they are better when boiled with salted pork, and 
afterwards mashed and fried in butter. 

Peas. — To have Peas in perfection, they should be 
gathered while young, and shelled and boiled while 
fresh ; as they soon lose both their colour and sweet- 
ness. Let the water, after having been seasoned with 
salt, be skimmed, then put in the Peas with a small 
bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the cover so as to let 
off the steam; they require about fifteen minutes 
boiling, or five minutes, more or less, according to the 
age and care bestowed. — Taste and try in time, so as 
to have them done to a nicety. 

Rhubarb. — The stalks of this plant are used for 
pies and tarts. After being stripped of the skin, or 
outer covering, and divested of its small fibres, or 



HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 127 

stringiness, which it is liable to, in an advanced stage 
of growth, it should be cut transversely into very 
small pieces, and then parboiled with sugar, and such 
spices as may best suit the palate. It will keep this 
way the same as other preserves, and may be used, 
not only in pies and tarts, but it makes excellrnt pud- 
ding by flattening a suety crust with a rolling-pin, 
then sprearling on the fruit, rolling it up in an ovai 
shape, and boiling it in a cloth. The fruit this way 
will retain its virtues, and the pudding may be served 
up hot by cutting it in slices of from half an inch to an 
inch thick, and then spreading butter and sugar be- 
tween the layers. 

Some boil the stalks to a juice, which being strained 
through a colander will keep for years, if well spiced 
and seasoned with sugar. 

Salsify. — The mode of cooking this vegetable, as 
recommended by an American author, is " to cut the 
roots transversely into thin pieces, and then boil them 
in water, or milk and water ; when boiled soft, mash 
them, and thicken the whole with flower, to some 
degree of stiffness; then fry them in the fat of salt 
pork or butter ; they are a luxury." In England the 
tops are considered excellent food when boiled tender, 
and served up with poached eggs and melted butter. 
They are by some considered salutary for persons in- 
clined to consumptiveness. Those afllicted with any 
symptoms indicating an approach to such a state of 
health, cannot harm themselves by eating the tops, 
when they are to be got, which is in the month of 
April, and if the roots are eaten when attainable, they 
may perhaps answer a still better purpose, and even 
the liquor in Avhich they are boiled, may possess some 
of the most valuable properties of the plant. 

ScoRzoNERA. — This vegetable is very similar to 



128 HINTS ON COOKING BARE VEGETABLES. 

the Salsify, only that the roots are of a darker colour, 
but they, no doubt, possess the same good qualities. 
Some boil and eat them like carrots, &c. inAvhichcase 
they should be deprived of their rind and immersed in 
cold water for half an hour, to take off the bitterness 
to which old roots are liable, as this plant, being pe- 
rennial, is often cooked when three or four years old. 
Those who choose, may prepare them for the table in 
the manner recommended for Salsify. 

Sea Kale. — To have this rare vegetable in per- 
fection, it should be cooked as soon as gathered. Let 
it be first soaked in water, seasoned with salt, for half 
an hour; then wash it in fresh water, and put it into 
the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling briskly, skim 
clean, and let off steam; when the stalks are tender, 
which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty- five 
minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, 
and serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such 
condiments as may be most agreeable to the palate. 

Skirret. — The roots of the Skirret are very whole- 
some for food. They are composed of several fleshy 
tubers, as large as a man's finger, and joining together 
at top. They are eaten boiled and stewed, with butter, 
pepper, and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else 
cold, with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They 
have much the taste and flavour of a Parsnip, but are 
a great deal more palatable. 

Spinach. — Some cook Spinach in a steamer over 
boiling water, but it is very good boiled, provided it 
be well drained in a colander before it is dished ; this 
is absolutely necessary, if you wish to have it so as to 
absorb a moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, 
&c. which is indispensible with green vegetables. 

Turnip. — This is a favourite vegetable with some, 
aad in England a leg of mutton and caper sauce is con- 



HINTS ON COOKING RARE VEGETABLES. 129 

sidered by epicures as but half a dish without mashed 
Turnips. To have them in perfection, they should, 
after having been deprived of their rind, be equalised 
by cutting the largest transversely in the centre, and 
then, after being boiled tender, let them be taken up 
and pressed as dry as possible ; at the same time let a 
lump of butter and a due portion of cayenne pepper 
and salt be added, and be beaten up with the turnips 
until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from 
the meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may 
be most esteemed. 

Vegetable Marrow, as well as all other kinds 
of Squashes, should, after having been boiled tender, 
be pressed as close as possible between two wooden 
trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of 
the same materials, until dry, and then prepared for the 
table in the same manner as Turnips. 

In conclusion of this article, it may be necessary to 
observe, that all vegetables should be drained as dry as 
possible before they are dished, as the liquid running 
from them in the plate weakens such gravies or con- 
diments as may be served up with them, and, conse- 
quently, makes them less palatable. 



12* 



i^m©w^^s^ 




REFLECTIONS. 



Whate'er has beauty, worth, or power, 

Or grace, or lustre, is a Flower ; 

Wit is a Flower ; and bards prepare 

The Flowers of Fancy for the fair; 

While Beauty's flowery fetters bind 

In sweet captivity the mind. 

Deep in the bosom dwells a Flower, 

Nor time shall taint, nor death devour; 

A Flower that no rude season fears. 

And VIRTUE is the fruit it bears ; 

Which join'd to patience, peace, and love, 

Will smooth the path to realms above. 



OBSERVATIONS 



IS^IStdDWIBIE (EiilBDmsr^ 



Previous to forming a Flower Garden, the ground 
should be made mellow and rich, by being well pul- 
verised, manured, and prepared in every respect as 
if intended for a Kitchen Garden. A Flower Garden 
should be protected from cold cutting winds by close 
fences, or plantations of shrubs, forming a close and 
compact hedge, which should be neatly trimmed every 
year. Generally speaking, a Flower Garden should 
not be upon a large scale; the beds or borders should 
in no part of them be broader than the cultivater can 
reach to, without treading en them : the shape and 
number of the beds must be determined by the size of 
the ground, and the taste of the person laying out the 
garden. Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden 
depends on the manner in which it is laid out ; a great 
variety of figures may be indulged in for the Flower 
bed. Some choose oval or circular forms, others 
squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds, &c., and inter- 
sected winding gravel walks. 

Neatness should be the prevailing characteristic of a 
Flower Garden, and it should be so situated as to form 
an ornamental appendage to the house; and where 
circumstances will admit, placed before windows ex- 
posed to a southern or south-eastern aspect. The 
principle on which it is laid out, ought to be that of 
exhibiting a variety of colour and form, so blended as 
to present one beautiful whole. In a small Flower 
Garden, viewed from the windows of a house, thi» 



134 FLOWER GARDEN. 

effect is best produced by beds, or borders formed on 
the side of each other, and parallel to the windows 
from whence they are seen, as by that position the 
colours show themselves to the best advantage. In a 
retired part of the garden, a rustic seat may be formed, 
over and around which honey-suckles and other sweet 
and ornamental creepers and climbers may be trained 
on trellises, so as to afford a pleasant retirement. 

Although the greatest display is produced by a ge- 
neral Flower Garden, that is, by cultivating such a 
variety of sorts in one bed or border, as may nearly 
insure a constant blooming, yet bulbous plants, while 
essential to the perfection of the Flower Garden, lose 
something of their peculiar beauty when not cultivated 
by themselves. The extensive variety of bulbous 
roots furnish means for the formation of a garden, the 
beauty of which arising from an intermixture of every 
variety of form and colour, would well repay the trou- 
ble of cultivation, particularly as by a judicious selec- 
tion and management, a succession of bloom may be 
kept up for some length of time. As, however, bul- 
bous flowers lose their richest tints about the time that 
annuals begin to display their beauty, there can be no 
well founded objection to the latter being transplanted 
into the bulbous beds, so that the opening blossoms of 
the annuals may fill the place of those just withered, 
and continue to supply the flower beds with all the 
gaiety and splendour of the floral kingdom. 

But the taste of the florist will be exercised to little 
purpose, in his selection of flowers, if he does not pay 
strict attention to the general state of his garden. If 
there are lawns or grass walks, they should he fre- 
quently trimmed, and more frequently mowed and 
rolled, to prevent the grass from interfering with the 
flower beds, and to give the whole a neat regular 
carpet-like appearance. If there are gravel walks. 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 135 

they should be frequently cleaned, replenished with 
fresh gravel, and rolled. Box and other edgings should 
be kept clear of weeds, and neatly trimmed every 
spring. Decayed plants should be removed, and re- 
placed with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. 
Tall flowering plants must be supported by neat poles 
or rods ; and all dead stalks and leaves from decayed 
flowers must be frequently removed. 

In the summer season, all kinds of insects must be 
timely destroyed, and in the evening of warm days, 
the flowers will require frequent watering. 



A CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



GRAINES DE FLUKES ANNUELLES. 

Alkekengi, or Kite Flower, Alropa physaloides. 

Alyssum Sweet, Aly^sam niaritium. 

^ Amariinthus, three coloured, Amarantkus tricolor. 

Amethyst, blue, .tmdhystea cerulea, 

k Balsaniines of various co- 
lours, Imnatiens hahnmina. 

Bladder ketmia. Hibiscus trionum. 

Blue bottle, great, Ccntaurca cjanus major. 

Blue bottle, small, cyavas minor. 

J Browallia (blue and white,) RrowaUia elala. 

^ Cacalia, scarlet, Carcdu: coccinea. 

Candytuft, white and purple, Iberis alba and purpurea. 

Do. sweet scented, odoratn. 

Catch fly, Silenc anneria. 

^ Centaurea, great American, Cenlaurea Americana. 

China asters of various kinds 

and colours, Asler sinensis. 

Chinese mallow, red, Malva sinensis rubra. 

Chrysanthemum, white, yel- 
low, and tri coloured, Chrysanthemum coronarium, 
^ Cockscomb, crmisoa and 

yellow, Celoeia crislata. 

* Convolvulus, dwarf. Convolvulus minor. 



136 



ANNITAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



Coreopsis, Golden, Coreopsis tinctoria. 

Cuckold's Horn, (two stami- 

ncd, Martynia diandria. 

Devil in a. Bush, or Love in a 



JVigella damas^ena. 
Mtssemhi yanlhemum glabrum. 
Omothera grandijiora. 
Xeranthtmum lucidum. 
annum. 
Evphorbia varitgata. 
Stipn innnnia. 
Adonis miniata. 



mist, HI varieties, 
Dew Plant, 
^ Evening primrose. 
Eternal tlower, yellow, 
Do. purple. 

Euphorbia, variegated, 
Feather, grass, 
Flos adonis, 
k Globe Amaranthus, purple, 

white, and striped, Gomphrena globosa. 

Graceful, branched podolepis, Podulcpis gracilis. 
Hawkvveed, yellow, Crepis barbata aurantia. 

Do. red, ridjra. 

Do. white, alba. 

* Hedge Hogs, Medicago inlerltxta. 

k Ice plant, Mesembnjanihemum clirystal 

linum. 
Jacobea, or Groundsell, purple 



and white, 
Job's Tears, 
Larkspur, broad leaved, 

Do. branching and up. 
right, 
Lavatera, European, 
Love lies bleeding, 

* Lupins of various colours, 
Malope, great flowered, 
Marigold, African, 

Do. French, 
Marigold, starry, 
*Marvel of Peru, (or 4 o'clock) Mirabilis jalupa 

* Mignonette, (sweet scented) Reseda odorata. 



Senecio elcgnns and alba. 
Coix lachryma J obi. 
De/phintum peregrinium- 

consoUdum. 
Lavatera trimcsiris 
Amaranthus mtlancholicvs. 
Lapinus var. 
Malope grand ijlora. 
Tagttts erecta. 
patula. 
Calendula steilata. 



Nolana, trailing, 

* Oats, animated, 
Pansey, or Heart's Ease, 
Pempcrnell, blue, 

* Poppy, horned, 

* Poppy, officinal white, 
Pentapetes, scarlet, 
Prince's feather, 

* Sensitive plant, 
Strawberry Spinach, 



Nolana prostrata. 
Jlvena sensaiiva. 
Viola tricolor. 
Anagallis cerulea indiea, 
Glaucum luteum. 
Papaver somniferum. 
Pentapetes Phcenica. 
A7naran thus hypochondriaeus. 
Mimosa sensiliva. 
Blitum capitatum. 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 137 

Sunflower, tall and dwarf, Helianthus annuus. 
Sweet Saltan, purple, white, 

and yellow, Centaurea,, var. 

* Stock Ten Week, or giUi- 

flower, various colours, CheirnntJius annuus. 

Touch me not, J^ofi me tangere. 

Trefoil, crimson, Trifolium incamaium. 
Do. sweut scented, odorala. 

* Venus' looking glass, Campanula speculum. 
Venus' navel wort. Cotyledon macrophyllum. 
Xeranthemum, or eternal flow- 
er, white, Xeranthemum lucidum alba. 

Ximenisia, Mexican, Ximenisia ensaloides. 

Zinnia, red and yellow, Zinnia, rubra and lutea. 



The following" are climbing plants, and will require 
to be planted in situations where they can be support- 
ed by sticks or twine, without interfering with other 
plants. 

Balloon vine, or love in a puff". Cardtospurmum. 
4 Cypress vine, Ipomoea coccinea. 
Fumitory pink, Fumaria fungosa. 
Hyacinth Bean, Dilichos, purpurea and alba. 
Morning Glory, various co- 
lours, Convolvulus major. 
Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordica batsamina. 
Gourd, tlic bottle, Cucurbila lagenaria. 
Do. two coloured, bicolor. 
Do. Orange, auranlia. 
Snake Melon, Cucumis melo anguinui. 
Sweet Peas of various kinds 

and colours, Lathyrus vdoratus. 

As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit 
of an extensive assortment of Flowers, a select list 
may be made from the above catalogue to suit th« 
taste of such as may be so situated ; and amateurs, 
who cultivate on a larger scale, can obtain such addi- 
tional sorts as may be desired at the diflerent 8e«d 
stores, under their various names. 

13 



IS8 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Previous to providing annual flower seeds, the cul- 
tivator should lay cut a plan of the garden, and in 
making allotments of ground for any particular pur- 
poie, provision should be made for a select assortment 
of such bulbousj tuberous, and perennial plants as may 
be deemed most worthy of attention, not forgetting to 
leave room for some of the choicest varieties of the 
Dahlia, the qualities of which will be described 
hereafter. 

Another consideration is, to have suitable imple- 
ments ready, so that the work can be performed in a 
skilful manner, and at the proper season. A spade, 
rake,'hoe, trowel, drilling machine an:3 pruning knife, 
may be deemed essentials ; and in order to have the 
beds laid out with the edges strait and even, a garden 
line should be in readiness. If labels be required, they 
may be made of shingles, which being split into strips 
of about an inch wide, and sharpened at one end, will 
serve for marking distinct kinds, either in pots, or on 
the borders. In order to have the names or numbers 
written in legible characters, the labels should be 
painted on the smooth side with white lead, and then 
marked with black lead pencil before the paint gets 
dry ; inscriptions made in this way will be as durablo 
as the label itself. 

The next, and perhaps the most important con- 
sideration is, to have the ground in good condition to 
receive the seed. In order to attain this desirable 
object, let some good rich compost, or very old manure 
be provided, and well mixed with the soil ; dig it 
a full spit deep, pulverising every particle. If the 
ground could be dug to a great depth at the clearing 
up of winter, and then again at the period of sowing 
the seed, it will be an advantage. 

All kinds of annual Flower seeds may be sown in 
the montli of April and May, on borders or beds of 



ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 1^9 

clean light earth ; the beds should be levelled, and the 
seeds sown either in small patches, each kind by itself, 
or in drills from a quarter to half an inch deep, accord- 
ing to the size or nature of the seed. Lupins, Peas, 
&c. should be planted nearly an inch deep. Those 
who would have their plants to flower early, should 
sow the hardy kinds the last week in March, or early 
in April, the most tender (which are marked §) may 
be sown in boxes or pots of light earth at the same 
time. These, if exposed to the sun every day, and 
sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded in growth, 
and be fit to transplant early in June. Those marked *, 
may also be sown in small pots. As these plants do 
not well bear transplanting, they should be turned out 
of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and placed in 
the ground where they are intended tollower; or if 
the seed be sown in abed with other kinds, they should 
be carefully transplanted with a trowel, without dis- 
turbing their roots. The most eligible way to obtain 
early flowers, is to prepare a slight hot-bed for the 
tender kinds, and either to plunge the pots therein up 
to their brims, or to sow the seed in the earth in shallow 
drills, not more than a quarter of an inch deep. It 
may be necessary here to observe, that in favourable 
seasons, flower seed in general will come up in from 
one to three weeks after it is sown, except the seed of 
Cypress vine, which should be first partially scalded 
in warm water, and then sown. If some of the hardy 
annuals be sown in September, they w^ill grow large 
enough to survive the winter by a slight covering of 
straw or litter ; and if plants thus raised, be trans- 
planted early in the spring, they will produce very 
early flowers. The following are some of the hardiest i 



140 ANNUAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



AlysBum sweet. 
Coreopsis, in varieties. 
China aster, in varieties. 
Catch fly. 
Chrysanthemum, in varieties. 



Evening Primrose. 
Larkspur, in varieties. 
Pansey, or Heart's ease. 
Poppy, in varieties. 
Rocket Larkspur. 



To prevent disappointment, I would recommend 
great care to be taken to keep the seed beds as clear 
from weeds as possible. It cannot be denied but 
young plants are apt to get smothered, and sometimes 
pulled up with weeds. To obviate this, I would sug- 
gest that the seeds be sown in shallow drills, each 
kind by itself, ami that an account be kept of the con- 
tents of each drill in a book ; also of all seeds that are 
sown at different times, and by being particular in the 
dates, you may always know when to expect your 
plants to come up. Those persons who may be 
totally unacquainted with plants, will, by this meanSj 
be enabled to identify each particular kind, and thus 
become familiarly acquainted with them. In order 
that this may be rendered plain to my readers, I adopt 
the following plan of entry of six kinds sown in potSg 
and six in the open ground : 
April 20, sowed flower seeds in pots. 

Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranihus tricolour. 

B, or 2 Balsamines. 

C, or 3, Co'kscomb, crimson. 

D, or 4. Egg Plant. 

E, or 5, Ice Plant. 

F, or 6, Migiionelte. 

These pots may be either marked with letters or 

figures on the outside, to answer with the book, or 

notches may be cut in wood, or other labels aflfixed to 

the pots, and entered accordingly. 

April 20, sowed flower seeds in drills, as under : 
No. I, Bladder kelmia. 

2, Coreopsis tincloria. 

3, Yellow Eternal fiowcT. 

4, Globe amnrantlius. 

5, Princes feather. 

6, Larkspur branching. 



ANNITAL FLOWER SEKDS. 14 1 

If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1000, 
there can be no mistake, provided the rows are all 
marked according to the entry in the book ; or if No. I 
be noted, plain sticks will answer afterwards, if one be 
stuck at each end of every row. In this case, it would 
be well to leave a space every ten or twenty rows, 
and note the number of the rows ; by this means, they 
can bo the more easily traced. 

If the book be kept by any other than the Gardener, 
each bag or paper of seed should be marked or num- 
bered according to the entry in the book, and given to 
the Gardener, with directions to sow them in the re- 
gular order. 

When seeds are intended to be sown in patches, 
which is often done for want of an unoccupied border, 
the best way to perform tiiis business is, after having 
pulverised the soil, to impress circular drills in the 
surface, with the rim of a flower pot, which may be 
large or small, according to fancy. By sowing seeds 
in such circular drills, the plants can be the more easily 
traced than when scattered promiscuously over the 
ground, and the weeds can be destroyed with less risk 
and trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the cata- 
logue* may remain as sown, or if parted, they should 
be removed with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, 
in small tufts, and this business, as well as transplantt- 
ing in general, should be always done immediately 
preceding, or after rain, and in cloudy weather. Her- 
baceous plants will not flourish, or flower well, if grown 
in clusters ; they should, therefore, be transplanted 
into the regular beds, at all favourable opportunities, 
after they get to about an inch in length ; and as there 
is always a risk of some plants not taking root, it is 
safest to plant a few of each sort every time, taking 
care to diversify the colours, and also to leave a few 
plauU m the seed beds for the purpose of substituting 

13* 



142 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

in the room of such plants whose period of flowering 
may be over; as is the case generally with early pe- 
rennial plants and bulbs, at about the season that the 
last of the annuals are fit to remove. 

The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, 
or a neat dibble made for the purpose. 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 



GRAINES DE FLEUKS BISANNUELLES ET VIVACE3. 



Those marked 11 are Biennials. 



Adonis, spring flowering. 

Alpine Columbine, 

Alyssum, yellow, 

Asiatic globe flower, 

Bee Larkspur, 

y Canterbury Bells, (blue and 

white.) 
Cardinal flower, scarlet, 
Cassia, Maryland, 
Carnation, pink, 
Chinese, imperial pink, 
Clove, CO. 
Colutea, scarlet, 
Coreopsis, elegant, 
Coreopsis Lameolatum, 
Coronet, flowered Lychniss, 
II Clary, jiurple topped, 
Crimson Eergumot, 
Columbine, double, 
Dragon's head, 
European globe flower, 
Enpatorium, bluf, 
II Fox-glove, purple, 

Do. white, 

Fraxinella, red. 
Gentian, purple. 
Gentian, Porcelain flowered, 
Gilliflowcr, many sorts, 
Globe Thistle, 



Adonis rernalis. 
Aquilegia alpina. 
A lyssum saxutile. 
Trollius Asiaticus. 
Ddphiniuin elalum. 

Campanula medium. 
Lobelia Cardinalis. 
Cassia Marylandica. 
Dianihus caryophyllus. 

Chinensis. 

hurlensis. 
Sutherlandiafrulescens. 
Coreopsis grande-Jlora. 
Corfjipsia lanceolatum. 
Lychnis coi onala. 
ISalvin sclara. 
Monarda Kalmiana. 
Aquilegia rulgaris. 
Drarocephalum. 
Trollius Europaeu&. 
Enpatorium cerulea. 
Digitalis purpurea. 

alba. 
Dictnmnus rubra. 
Gentiana saponaria. 
Gen liana adscendens. 
Cheirinnthus mcanus^ 
Echinops sphosrocephalu9. 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 143 



Hollyhock, black Antwerp, 
Do. China of sorts, 

Do. English do. 

fl Hone'ity, or Saiin Flower, 

Ivy Leaved Toad Flax, 

Jacob's Ladder, 

Liatris, long spiked, 

Lupin Perennial, 

Lychnis, Dwarf Mountain, 
Do. scarlel, 

London Pride,or Maiden Pink, 

Monks'-hood, 

Monkey-flower, blue, 

Monkey flower, dark spotted. 

Phlox, or French Lilac, 

Pink, pheasanl-eyed, 

Perennial Campanula, 

Perennial Larkspur, 

Purple Perennial Flax, 

II Pyramidal Bell Flower, 

<iueen oftlie Meadows, 

Rose Campion, in varieties, 

Rudbeckia, yellow & purple, 

Sophora, while and blue, 

Sun Flower, perennial, many 
flowering, 

jl Sweet Soibious, 

Sweet Ro(Mtet, 

Sweet Willi im, 

Ij Sweet Ch li Marigold, 

Valerian, Garden, 

Valerian, Greek, 

Verbena, purple, 

Veronica, variegated, 

Veronic;i, tall blue, 

U Willi Flower, bloody. 



AUheaJl. nigra. 
AUhta Cliincnsis, var. 

Anglica^ var. 
Lunaria biemns. 
Linaria rymbalaria. 
Polemonium cerultum, 
Liatris spicata. 
Lupinus perennis. 
Lychnis Alpina. 

Ckalcedonica. 
Dianthus ddtoides. 
Aconiium napellus. 
Mimulus rin'jens. 
Mimuius rivalaris. 
Phlox, many species. 
Dianthus plumarius. 
Campanula persicafolia. 
Dephinium grandijlorum. 
Linum perenne. 
Campanula pyramidalis. 
Spiraea ulmaria. 
Agrostemma coronaria. 
Rudbeckia lutea and purpurea. 
Sopkora alba and cerulea. 

Helianlhus altissimus. 
IScabiosa alr,purpurta. 
Hesperis maironalis. 
Dianthus barbatus, 
Tagetes lucida. 
Valeriana rubra. 
Polemonium ceruleum. 
Verbena purpurea. 
Veronica variegala. 
Veronica elala cerulea, 
Ckeiranthus cluiri. 



(climbing PLANTS.) 



EverlastingPeas, pink & white Lalhyrus latifolius^roaa^alba. 
Purple Glycine, Glycine apios. 

Scarlet Irumpet Flower, Bignonia radicans. 

Sweet Virgm's Bovver, Clematis flammula. 

Traveller's .loy, vitalba. 

Virginian Virgin's Bower, Virginiana. 



144 BIENNIAL &ND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS. 

Biennial and perennial flower seeds may be sown in 
the month of April, in shallow drills. If this business 
be performed in the manner recommended for annuals 
they can bo easily distinguished from each other ; and 
as these plants do not flower the first year, they may 
be thinned out, or removed from the seed beds as soon 
as they are well rooted, and planted either into differ- 
ent parts of the flower beds, or in a nursery bed. If 
the latter plan be adopted, they should be planted in 
rows a foot or more apart, and kept free from weeds 
by means of a small hoe, which will greatly promote 
their growth, and prepare them for transplanting into 
the ground, (where they are intended to flower,) 
either in the autumn or early in the ensuing spring. 
It may be remarked thatbiennials are raised principally 
from seed sown every year. They seldom survive 
the second winter to flower in perfection, unless they 
are renewed by cutting of top shoots, young flower 
stalks, or casual root- offsets, layers, ^c. It will be 
unnecessary to take this trouble, unless it be with any 
extraordinary double-flowering plants. Some of the 
perennials may be increased by root offsets detached 
from the old plants, and planted in Spring or Autumn ; 
others by bottom suckers and slips of top shoots, lay- 
ers, and pipings of young shoots, &c. 

Many sorts of biennial and perennial flower seeds 
may be sown in September, or as soon as ripe ; and if 
the plants get strong before the setting in of winter, 
some of them will flower the summer next ensuing. 
The following are amongst the hardiest. 



Adonis Sprinji, flowering. 
Alpine Columbine. 
Alyssum, yellow. 
Bee, larkspur. 
Columbine, in varieties. 
Coronet flowered Lychnis. 
Fox glove, in varieties. 
Fraxenella, 
Hollyhock, in varieties. 



Lychnis, in varieties. 
Larkspur, perennial. 
Rose Campion, in vari«tia»» 
Rocket, in varieties. 
Scabious, in varieties. 
Valerian, Garden. 
Valerian, Greek. 
Everlasting Peas. ) „!• v;„^ 
! Virgin's Bower. \<^^^^^^ 



BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 145 

It may be necessary to state further, that there are 
a great variety of beautiful double- flowering perennial 
herbaceous plants, that will not produce seed ; many 
of these may be obtained of the Florists, and should 
be introduced into the regular flowerbeds; the mode 
of increasing such, is by layers, cuttings, offsets, &c. 
detached from the old plants. As the earth within the 
flower beds will need to be fresh dug and replenished 
with good compost or manure, once in two or three 
years, it may be necessary to take up all the perennial 
plants at such times. Such roots as may be overgrown, 
should be deprived of their surplus olfsets, and may be 
planted in a nursery bed, or returned with the parent 
plants into the regular flower beds. 

In removing plants into the beds where they are 
intended to flower, great pains should be taken to 
preserve some of the eariii to the roots, and the ground 
should be previously brought into good condition, so 
that they may strike freely, and produce their flowers 
in perfection. The plants should be so arranged that 
they may all be seen. The most dwarfish may be 
placed in front, and others in a regular gradation to 
the tallest behind ; or the tallest may be planted along 
the middle of the beds, and the others on each side, 
according to their varied heights and colours. 

There is no part of gardening which requires so 
much elegance of taste and fancy, as in setting of a 
border or bed of intermixed flowers to advantage. In 
assemblage with other flowers, the different kinds of 
hardy bulbs may be planted in small clumps of six, 
seven, or eight inches in diameter, three, four, five or 
more roots in each, according to their size and growth^ 
and these at suitable distances from one another. 
Likewise, observe to diversify the kinds and colours, 
so as to display, when in bloom, the greatest possibly 
Yariety of shades and contrasts. 



146 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

In my preliminary observations, I directed the 
attention of my readers to some important points 
respecting walks, edgings, &c.— Although box is su- 
perior to any thing else for egdings ; yet in extensive 
gardens, dwarf plants of various kinds may be used 
forsuch purpose. Thrift is the neatest small evergreen 
next to box ; but Violets, Pinks, Periwinkle, Pansey, 
or even Parsley, Thyme, Strawberry plants, &c. may 
be used for the sake of diversity. These will require 
frequent watering and trimming, and the Thrift, &c. 
should be sometimes taken up, divided at the roots, 
and replanted. Box edgings will also require frequent 
pruning and trimming ; and once in from seven to 
ten years, the whole may be taken up, divided and 
replanted, and the surplus slips may be planted in a 
nursery bed in rows about a foot apart ; the«*^ will be 
suitable for making edging tlie year following. 

Flower beds shoiiltJ be kept free from weeds, and 
watered occasionally in the summer. In the autumn 
they should be covered with straw or light litter; this 
should be taken off in the spring, and the ground 
should be hoed and dressed in such a manner as to 
enliven the earth around the roots of the plants, at 
also to give the whole a neat appearance. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

ARBRISSEAUX d'orNEMENT. 

Shrubs are so closely connected with flowering 
plants, and indeed so many of them are embellished 
with flowers, that they may be considered as essential 
to the completion of an ornamental garden. They are 
all perennial, and are divided into two classes, decidu- 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 147 

tous and ever green ; the former lose their leaves in 
the winter, the latter only shed them when others 
are ready to supply their places. Shrubs are not only 
necessary to the embellishment of a flower garden, but 
many kinds of them are eligible for hedges to it, and 
may be planted at a trifling expense. These hedges 
should be frequently trimmed and trained, the sides 
cut even, and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to 
make Ihera ornamental, as well as useful, and also to 
increase the vigour of their growth. When the hedges 
become open or naked at the bottom, they should be 
plashed down ; this is done by cutting the branches 
half through near the ground ; they will then bend 
easily, and may be interwoven with the adjoining 
branches. When Shrubs, Creepers, or Climbers, are 
planted against walls or trellises, either on account of 
their rarity, delicacy, or to conceal a rough fence or 
other unsightly object, they require different modes of 
training; some attach themselves naturally, as the 
ivy, and merely require to be occasionally guided, so 
as to cause a regular distribution of their shoots ; others 
must be treated like fruit trees, trained thinly, if 
blossoms are the object, and rather thicker, if the in- 
tention be to show the foliage to the greatest possible 
advantage. 

Ornamental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve or 
more in height; and where such are planted for orna- 
ment, the height of each plant when full grown should 
be considered, and also the mode of growth, that 
every one may be so planted as to show to advantage, 
observing that the tall-growing should be planted in 
the back borders, and those of low growth forward; 
but if they are required to be planted in clumps, they 
should be so arranged as to rise gradually from the 
sides to the middle, and be afterwards neatly trimmeil. 



148 FLOWERING AND ORAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

Shrubs require an annual pruning, at which time, cat 
out all irregular and superfluous branches, and head 
down such as require it, forming them into handsome 
bushes ; apply stakes to such as may need support, 
and see that the low-growing ones do not injure each 
other, nor interfere with other dwarfish plants near 
them. 

Many kinds of Shrubs may be raised from seed sown 
early in the spring, but are more commonly propagated 
by suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like other plants, 
they require a good soil, which should be manured 
every two or three years, and some of the tender kinds 
should have some protection in winter. The following 
list, taken from an article in the New York Farmer 
and Horticultural Repository, furnished by Mr. Floy, 
contains the most of those usually planted in gardens 
and on lawns. These will furnish a succession of 
flowers from spring until fall, and may be obtained at 
the nursery here at moderate prices. 

Amorpha fruticosa. — Indigo shrub, with handsome 
bunches of purple flowers in great quantities. 

Amygdalus nana. Dwarf double flowering Almond; 
a very beautiful dwarf shrub, about three feet high. 

Aralia si)inosa, or Angelica tree, about ten feet high; 
flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long 
season. 

Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden chain; a most elegant 
shrub, with long racemes or bunches of yellow flowers, 
in the greatest profusion ; there are two kinds, the 
English and the Scotch l^aburnum. The Scotch is 
the largest, forming a pretty large Nhrub ; the English 
kind is greener, more compact, and by some, thought 
to be the handsomest; they ought to be in every 
garden. 

Calycanthus Floridus, Allspice or sweet-scented 
shrub, a native of the Southern Stales ; the flowers 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 149 

are of a very dark chocolate colour, and the fragrance 
very much resembles ripe strawberries, easily kept 
•where once introduced ; the shrub generally grows 
about five feet high in gardens. 

Ceanothus Americanus, Red root, or Jersey Tea 
tree, a plant or two in the collection, as it flowers in 
profusion, is worth having. 

Cercis siliquastrum, or Judas tree. The flowers 
appear very early before the leaves come out, and 
make a fine appearance ; as it grows rather tall, it is 
calculated for the back row of the shrubbery, 

Colutea arborescens, or Bladder Senna, having 
bunches of yellow flowers, which are succeeded by 
seeds in a kind of bladder, calculated for the back or 
centre row of shrubberies. 

Cratoegus oxyacantha, the Hawthorn. It makes a 
pretty appearance planted out singly in the back or 
centre row ; the flow^ers are very fragrant ; it is some- 
times called the Pride of May ; the double white, 
double scarlet, and single scarlet Hawthorn, are ex- 
tremely beautiful, and ought to be in every plantation. 
Hawthorn hedges are much used in England, where 
they look very handsome when kept clipped ; but 
they do not answer so well in this country, the heat of 
our summers causing the leaves to fall off" early, often 
in July ; on that account they are not much used. 
We have several things which are better calculated 
for that purpose. 

Cydonia Japonica, cr Pyrus Japonica, a very beau- 
tiful scarlet flowering shrub, from Japan, has not been 
in cultivation here for many years. It is found to be 
very hardy, resisting our most severe frosts ; it is ever- 
green, flowers very early, and continues a long time. 
A second flowering takes place in the latter part of the 
summer. It is every way a desirable shrub. 

14 



150 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

Daphne mazerium, one of our most early flowering 
shrubs, often flowering in February, and very sweet 
scented. It is rather tender in some situations, but 
will stand our ordinary winters very well in a sheltered 
situation. 

Dirca palustris, or Leather wood, a pretty little 
shrub, growing very regular in shape, and has the 
appearance of a large tree in miniature ; it is a native 
of our northern states, the flowers appear very early, 
are yellow, and come out before the leaves. 

Gymnocladus canadensis, or Kentucky Coffee tree. 
The berries have a resemblance to coffee, and are said 
to be a good substitute for it ; however, it is a beautiful 
tree, with handsome feathered leaves, and makes a 
fine contrast with others. It should be planted in the 
back or centre of the plantation, and is very hardy. 

Halesia diptera, and Halesia tetraptera, tAVO winged 
and four winged Silver Bell, or Snow-drop tree. They 
are both natives of the southern states, but are per- 
fectly hardy here; our most severe winters do not 
hurt them. The former kind flowers a month later 
than the latter, which flowers early in May. They 
are both elegant shrubs. 

Hibiscus Syriacus, fl. pleno. The double flowering 
Althea frutex, of which there are several varieties, the 
double white, double red, double red and white, and 
striped, are the most showy ; they commence their 
flowering late in July, and continue till fall, coming 
in at a very acceptable time. The single kinds, of 
which there are many varieties, are scarcely worth cul- 
tivating, the double ones being raised quite as well, 
and are equally hardy. These are indispensable in 
every plantation. 

Hypericum frutescens, Shrubby Hypericum. There 
are several species of this small beautiful shrub, all 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. ^ 151 

natives of the southern states, but perfectly hardy here. 
They all flower in the greatest profusion, and continue 
for a long season. They should be planted in the 
iront row. 

Kerria Japonica, or Corchorus Japonica, yellow 
Japan Globe flower; although a native of Japan, like 
many other Japan flowers, it is perfectly hardy here. 
It flowers in the greatest profusion at all times, except 
in the very dead of winter, and will grow almost in 
any soil or situation. 

Koelreuteria paniculata, Japan bladder tree, or 
Koelreterius, This is another hardy shrub from Japan . 
It has long racemes of flowers, succeeded by bladder- 
like fruit, and is worthy of cultivation in every good 
collection. 

Ligustrum vulgare, virens. Large European Pri- 
vet, a very handsome evergreen shrub, flowering in 
great profusion, producing bunches of black round 
berries. It bears clipping well, and is therefore 
well calculated for hedges, or to enclose ornamen- 
tal plantations. It grows quick, and is well adapted 
to our climate, and when planted in a hedge row, and 
kept clipped, it makes a beautiful hedge, and ought to 
be in more general use. 

Philadelphuscoronarius, or common Syringa, is very 
ornamental, producing its sweet scented flowers early, 
and in abundance, and also sweet scented Philadelphus 
inodorous, and P. grandiflorus. Garland Syringa, both 
natives of the southern states, but quite hardy here. 
The flowers are large, and they keep their flowering 
for several months in wreaths or garlands ; it is well 
calculated for the centre row, and also to hide unsightly 
objects. It has a beautiful effect when mixed with 
monthly honey-suckle, &c. 

Persica, or Amygdalus Persica, fl. rosea pleno. — 
Or double flowering Peach, is very beautiful in 



152 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

shrubberies. It sometimes bears fruit, but it is culti- 
vated entirely for its beautiful blossoms. A few trees 
also of the Chinese double flowering Apple, (Pyrus 
spectabilis,) have also a beautiful effect. 

Rhus cotinus, Venetian sumach, Aaron's beard, 
sometimes called fringe tree, is a fine shrub, calculated 
for the centre of the clump or shrubbery. Its large 
branches of fringe remaining all summer, give it a 
curious and striking effect, 

Ribes Missouriensis, or Missouri currant ; there are 
two species of this very ornamental shrub from Mis- 
souri, introduced by Lewis & Clarke; they are quite 
hardy, and flower in great profusion. 

Robinia glutinosa, and Rubina hispida, the former a 
pretty large shrub, with large bunches of flowers in 
great abundance, the other a smaller shrub ; they are 
both of them worthy of a place in all large collections, 

Robinia pseudo-acacia, or Yellow Locust tree.* This 
is superior to any other kind of wood for ship-trunnels, 
mill-cogs, and fence-posts, as well as for various other 
purposes. Its culture is very easy, and may be pro- 
pagated in great abundance, by sowing the seed ia 
March, April, or May, in a bed of good sandy loam, 
which is its favourite soil, and covering half an inch 
deep. Previous to sowing, put the seed in a basin, 
pour on scalding waier, and let it stand all night ; pick 
out such seeds as are swollen, and plant them imme- 
diately ; next evening repeat the same process, with 
such as have not swollen the first night, mix the 
whole, and sow them ; they will come up in the course 
of the following month numerously ; for no seeds grow 
more freely, notwithstanding what some may say to 
the contrary. When a year old, transplant them out 

* This tree is introduced here rather on account of its usefulness 
than its beauty, though the latter is very considcrabie. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 153 

of the seed-bed into nursery rows, four feet distant, 
and plant from plant one foot in the row. Having 
two or three years' growth in these rows, they may be 
planted successfully in any warm and tolerably rich 
sandy ground. They may also be propagated by 
suckers, which they throw up abundantly, especially 
if some of the wide-extending roots be cut through 
with an axe. An acre of these trees, planted at two 
feet distant each way, will contain 10,890 ; at four 
feet distant, 2,722 : and it is said that no appropriation 
of land is more lucrative than that devoted to this 
purpose. [The Three Thorned Acacia Seed, (Gle- 
ditschia) should be prepared in the same manner.] 

Sorbus aucuparia, Mountain ash, or Roan tree. — 
This is a very beautiful shrub of the larger size ; the 
leaves are ornamental ; the flowers and fruit, which 
are produced in large bunches, are beautiful ; the 
fruit remains till late in the autumn ; it is a native of 
Europe. 

Sorbus Canadensis. This is a native of our northern 
frontiers and mountains ; it does not grow as large as 
the former ; the berries are smaller and red, the former 
larger and of an orange colour, but otherwise much 
resemble it. 

Spartium junceum, and Genista, two or three spe- 
cies of broom, with bunches of yellow flowers in very 
great profusion; the Genista or Spanish broom has 
white flowers, is also very pretty, but not quite so 
hardy as the former. 

Symphoria racemosa, or Snow-berry, sometimes call- 
ed Snow-apple, a pretty little shrub ; the bunches of 
wax-like white berries which it produces during the 
whole summer, give it a beautiful appearance. 

Syringa vulgaris, or common Lilac, is well known 
to all, and needs no comment. The white variety is 
not quite so common— they are only fit for outside 

14* 



154 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHSUB«. 

plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon make 
themselves common. 

Syringa Persica, or Persian lilac, is a delicate low 
shrub, the flowers very abundant, and the leases small 
and delicate. There are two varieties of the Persian 
lilac; the white flowering, and the blue or purple 
flow^ering. 

The Chinese cut leaved lilac is very curious ; the 
leaves are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in 
longer racemes than the former. 

Siberian, or large Persian lilac. The bunches of 
flowers are very large, and continue in season a long 
time after the common lilac. 

Rosa, or roses, a very numerous variety of them ; 
some reckon five or six hundred kinds. They are 
accounted the most beautiful of Flora's productions. 
Perhaps a handsome collection might be made of about 
fifty of the best sorts, w^iich, by taking said quantity, 
I suppose might be obtained at about fifty cents each 
under name ; and generally a fire collection unnamed 
at half that amount. No good garden or shrubbery 
can be without them. 

Tamarix Galica, or French Tamarix, and the Ta- 
marix Germanica, German Tamarix, are two pretty 
shrubs ; the leaves and branches are small and slender, 
producing quantities of beautiful flowers, and form a 
very striking contrast to the other part of the shrub- 
bery. 

Viburnum opulus, or Guilder rose, otherwise called 
Snow-ball, is a very showy shrub, with large balls of 
snow-white flowers in the greatest profusion ; and ig 
indispensably necessary to every shrubbery. 

Vitex agnus castus, or Chaste tree, a pretty and 
singulur shrub, flowering the most part of the summer. 

Bignoaia radicans, or Trumpi t creeper, with bunches. 
of red trumpet-shaped flowers, large and showy. 



ITLOWERING AND OKNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 155 

Bignonia grandiflora, is much like the former in habit 
and appearance, but the flowers are much larger. It 
is said to be a native of China, and the former a native 
of this country. They are both perfectly hardy, and 
will climb up brick work or wooden fences without 
any assistance. 

Clematis, or Virgin's Bower. There are several 
species, some of them tender, or not sufficiently hardy 
for our severe winters, without protection. The Cle- 
matis Virginica, Viorna, Viticella, and Vitalba, are 
perfectly hardy. 

Glycine Sinensis, or Wistaria Sinensis, is a hand- 
some China creeper of recent introduction from China, 
and is not yet common in our nurseries. It is a 
beautiful vine, running to a great height, and loaded 
with long racemes of purple flowers, and is highly 
spoken of in the Gardener's Magazine. 

American Glycine frutescens, orWistaria frutescens. 
This beautiful brother of the Chinese kind, is a native 
of our Southern states, grows much in the same way 
as the other, and perhaps not inferior. Although this 
fine creeper has been long known in England, we 
have not heard much about it by English writers ; the 
conclusion seems to be that it does not flower well in 
England. In fact, none of our southern plants do well 
in that country, while those from China do very well 
— here, however, it is quite the reverse. I have the 
Chinese Wistaria Sinensis from fifteen to twenty feet 
long, and the American Wistaria about the same 
height. The Chinese does not look so vigorous and 
green as his American brother. — The American Wis- 
taria should be planted in every garden with other 
creepers, or run up the trees in shrubberies, according 
to its natural disposition. 

Lonicera, comprehending all the fine sweet scented, 
honeysuckles ; of the Italian kinds, the monthly honey-- 



156 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 

suckle is decidedly superior, continuing to flower all 
through the summer, until late in the fall, and very 
fragrant. Some of the other European kinds may be 
occasionally introduced in large shrubberies — two or 
three American kinds deserve particular notice. 

Lonicera semper virens, or Coral trumpet monthly 
honeysuckle, is extremely beautiful, flowering the 
whole of the summer, with its thousands of scarlet 
bunches. It is, however, destitute of scent. 

Lonicera Fraseri, also an American; the flowers 
are like the other kind in almost every particular, 
except colour, this being a bright yellow. 

Lonicera, pubescens, or Caprifolium pubescens, a 
large and beautiful honeysuckle from the North-west 
coast; the flowers are large and of a bright copper 
colour, inclining to orange — they are all perfectly 
hardy. 

Lonicera flexuosa. — Chinese honeysuckle of late 
introduction ; it is perfectly hardy, Avithstanding our 
most severe frosts without the least injury ; it is a very 
sweet scented honeysuckle, grows rapidly, and to an 
immense height. It flowers in pairs and threes all up 
the branches, covering the whole plant completely 
with flowers. It blossoms spring and fall, and is a 
very valuable acquisition to our gardens and shrub- 
beries. 

Lonicera Japonica, or Japan honeysuckle. This 
bears flowers in great profusion, which are white, 
afterwards becoming of a light yellow. This is not so 
hardy as the former, and requires a little protection in 
winter. 

I shall only add to the above, the running kinds of 
roses, although there are many other things which 
might be mentioned. 

Rosa multiflora, from China, is pretty well known, 
producing thousands of small double red roses in 



FLOWERINa AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 157 

bunches. It requires a sheltered situation from some 
of our keen northwesters. Rosa multiflora alba, from 
the same country, is of late importation, but as it in- 
creases readily, may be obtained at about the same 
price as the former ; the bunches of flowers are white. 
Rosa Grivellis, a running rose also from China, the 
flowers of various colours. Rosa lubifolia. Raspberry 
leaved rose, from our northern frontiers, and extend- 
ing over the western country; although a single 
flowering rose, it produces large bunches of flowers, 
whicli are differently coloured on the same bunch, 
exactly like the former China kind, and is another 
instance of the similarity of plants, natives of China 
and our country. 

Rosa canina fl. pleno. English double dog rose, 
is a very pretty little double rose, and Avill run to a 
great height. Rosa Banksii, Lady Banks' double 
white China running rose. It runs up, and spreads 
much — it may be easily known from others of the 
running roses, by its being entirely destitute of 
prickles. RosaNoisette, and Champney's, are said to 
have been raised from China seeds in Carolina — they 
are not strictly running roses, but as they grow up 
tall, are fine ornaments for the shrubbeiy, flowering 
during the whole of the summer and fall, in large 
clusters. The Madeira rose, or double white cluster, 
musk — It also flowers all through the summer and fall 
months, and is therefore well adapted for the shrub- 
bery. Rosa Cherokensis, called the nondescript, or 
Georgia rose — the flowers are very large and white, 
the centre yellow. This is a running rose, growing 
very high around trees, &c. 

Rosa rubiginosa, or Sweet briar, is too well known 
to need description. 

Deciduous shrubs may be planted at any time after 
they lose their leaves, and before the buds begin tQ> 



168 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. 

expand in the sprino;, provided the ground can be 
brought into good condition to receive them ; the 
holes should be dug capacious enough to hold the roots 
without cramping them, and some earth well pulveri- 
sed must be thrown equally among the fibres of the 
roots, which should be well shaken and trodden down 
around the plants, until brought to the level required. 
Evergreens should be removed carefully with a ball of 
earth connected with their roots, and some good mould 
should be provided to fill in with. 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OP 
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

These plants exhibit a striking variety of the 
beauties of nature. It would seem as if every 
change she was capable of forming, was included in 
the radiant colours of the Tulip. Never was a cup 
either painted or enamelled with such a profusion of 
tints. Its tinges are so glowing, its contrasts so 
strong, and the arrangement of them both so elegant 
and aitful, that it may, with propriety, be denomi- 
nated the reigning beauty of the garden, in its season. 
The Hyacinth is also an estimable flower for its bloom- 
ing complexion, as well as for its most agreeable per- 
fume and variety. 

The Double Dahlia, in its numerous varieties, is 
inconceivably splendid. It is only about forty years 
since the first of these, which was single, was intro- 
duced into Europi! from Mexico. 

Double Dahlias of three colours were first known 
in the year 1802, since that time the varieties have 
so increased, that such as a few years ago were con- 
sidered beautiful, are now thrown away to give place 
to the more splendid sorts. I have good authority for 



BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. 159 

stating that upwards of twenty thousand seedlings are 
raised yearly in England, only a few of which are 
introduced into the collection of amateurs, to take the 
place^ of such old sorts as may from time to time be 
rejected. This is done, in order that none but the very 
choicest be retained in such collections. 

In some gardens in Holland they cultivate, by dis- 
tinct names, about eleven hundred varieties of Tulips, 
thirteen hundred of Hyacinths, and six hundred of 
Ranunculus and Anemones, some of which are sold as 
high as sixty dollars the single root. It is stated in 
the travels of Mr. Dutens, of his having known ten 
thousand florins, equal to ,^4000, refused for a single 
Hyacinth, and Dodsley says, in his Annual Register 
for 1765, that the Dutch of all ranks, from the greatest 
to the meanest, during the years from 1634 to 1637 
inclusive, neglected their business to engage in the 
Tulip trade. Accordingly, in those days, the Viceroy 
was sold for £250, the Admiral Lief keens £440, and 
Semper Augustus at from £500 to £1000 each, and also 
that a collection of Tulips was sold by the executors 
of one Wouter Broekholsmentser for £9000. It is stated 
that in one city in Holland, in the space of three years, 
they had traded for a million sterling in Tulips. 

As a full catalogue of all the varieties of Bulbous 
and Tuberous-rooted plants would occupy a number of 
pages, without affording much general interest, I shall 
content myself by devoting a short paragraph in de- 
scribing some of each particular species, which will be 
accompanied with directions for their culture, in a 
brief, and, at the same time, explicit manner. 

It may be here necessary to define the difference 
between Bulbous and Tuberous roots. Those desig- 
nated Bulbous, have skins similar to Onions, or the 
Allium tribe ; and Tuberous roots imply all such as 
produce tubes something similar to Potatoes. 



1^0 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. 

Tlie soil for Bulbous and Tuberous roots in general 
should be light, and yet capable of retaining moisturCj 
not such as is liable to become bound up by heat, or 
that in consequence of too large a portion of sand, is 
likely to become violently hot in summer; but a 
medium earth between the two extremes. But as 
many city gardens do not contain a natural soil of any 
depth, a suitable compost should be provided in such 
cases, which may consist of about equal parts of sand, 
loam, rotten manure, mould, &c. 

When ready, the beds may be laid out, from three 
to four feet wide, and they should be raised two or three 
inches above the level of the walks, which will give 
an opportunity for all superfluous moisture to run off. 
Let the beds thus formed be pulverised to the depth 
of fifteen or eighteen inches, and at the time of planting, 
let a small quantity of beach sand be strewed in 
the apertures or trenches, prepared for the roots to 
grow in, both before and after placing them, which 
will prove beneficial. 

A southern exposure, dry and airy, and sheltered 
from the north-west winds is preferable for most bulbs. 
But Anemones and Ranunculus should be in some 
measures heltered from the intense heat of noon. 

Beds of hardy bulbous and tuberous roots should be 
covered on the approach of winter with litter, leaves, 
straw, or such earth as is formed by the decay of 
leaves, to the depth of two or three inches, as it pre- 
vents any ill effects which a severe season may have 
on the roots ; but it should be carefully raked off again 
in the spring. 

Bulbous roots in general should be taken up in about 
a month or six weeks after the bloom is exhausted ; 
the foliage or leaves then turn yellow. If fine warm 
weather, the bulbs may be dried on the beds they 
grew on, by placing them in separate rows, being 



BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS PLANTS. 161 

careful not to mix the several varieties together. To 
prevent such an accident, labels may be affixed to, or 
placed in the ground opposite each bulb — they will 
keep much better for being dried gradually ; to this 
end, a little dry earth may be shaken over them, to 
screen them from the heat of the sun. If it rain before 
they get dry, take them in, or cover them with boards ; 
when dry, clear them of the fibres and stem, and then 
put them away in dry sand ; or wrapped in paper, 
they may be kept in boxes or drawers until the season 
of planting again. 

The tender tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, and the 
like, will have to be taken up before the cold becomes 
severe. As the Dahlia exhibits its flowers in all their 
splendour, until nipped by the frost, the roots ought, 
in the event of a very sudden attack, to be secured from 
its blighting effects. They are not apt to keep weJl, 
if taken up before they are ripened ; the tops should, 
therefore, be cut down as soon as they have done 
flowering, and the ground covered around the roots, 
with dung or litter ; this Avill enable them to ripen 
without being injured by frost ; and in about a week 
after being cut down, or on the appearance of severe 
weather, they should be dug up and packed in dry 
sand, and then stowed away in a dry place out of the 
reach of frost. The temperature suited to keep green- 
house plants will preserve them in good order. Some 
people complain of the difficulty of keeping Dahlia 
roots through the winter. I am of opinion that they 
are often killed from being taken up before they are 
ripe, and then put in a confined damp place ; or are 
by some, perhaps, subjected to the other extreme, and 
dried to a husk. I keep mine on shelves in the 
greenhouse, and seldom lose one in a hundred. If it 
be an object with the cultivator to have the names 
perpetuated from year to year, each plant should have 

15 



162 AMARYLLIS. 

a small label affixed to the old stalk, by means of small 
brass wire, as twine is very apt to get rotten. 

Cape Bulbs, and such tuberous roots as are culti- 
vated in pots, on account of their tenderness, should be 
kept dryi after the foliage is decayed, until within 
about a month of their period of regerminating ; at 
which time they should, after having been deprived of 
their surplus offsets, be repotted in good fresh earth. 

There are some descriptions of bulbous and tuber- 
ous roots that need not be taken up oftener than once 
in two or three years, and then only to deprive them 
of the young offsets, and to manure the ground. These 
will be described hereafter under their different heads. 

In the articles which follow, I have named the pre 
ferable season for planting the various kinds of bul- 
bous and tuberous roots ; but as some bulbs will keep 
in good condition several months, there can be no ob- 
jection to retaining such out of the ground, to suit any 
particular purpose or convenience. 



DIRECTIONS 

FOR THE CULTIVATION OF 

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 

Amaryllis. Of this genus of flowering bulbs there 
are about eighty species, and upwards of one hundred 
varieties ; they are natives of South America, and in 
Europe are generally kept in the hot-house ; some of 
the varieties are hybrids, produced by cultivation ; 
these succeed very well in the green-house, and in this 
country we frequently have very perfect flowers in 
the borders. A few of the choicest varieties are as 
follows : 

Amaryllis Aulica, or Crowned Amaryllis, is one of 
the most beautiful ; it produces four flowers, about 



AMARYLLIS. 



163 



seven inches diameter, on an erect stem, about two 
feet and a half high, with six petals of green, crimson, 
and fine transparent red colours. 

A. Ballota, produces three or four rich scarlet flowers 
on the stem, each about five inches in diameter ; there 
are two or three varieties of this species, all beautiful, 

A Johnsoniensis. The stem of this variety rises 
about two feet, and exhibits four beautiful scarlet 
flowers, with a white streak in the centre of each petal, 
each flower about six inches diameter. It sometimes 
produces two stems. 

A. Longifolia, or Crinum Capense, is perfectly- 
hardy ; it flowers in large umbels of a pink colour, 
inclining to white, and is a good garden variety. 

Amaryllis Formosissima, or Jacobean Lily, produces 
a flower of great beauty, although a low-priced plant. 
It throws out gracefully its glittering crimson-coloured 
petals, which have a brilliancy almost too intense for 
the eye to rest upon. 

The A. Lutea produces its bright yellow flowers in 
October, in the open air ; but the bulb requires a little 
protection in the winter, or it may perish. 

The most suitable soil for AmarylHses is a clean new 
earth, taken from under fresh grass sods, mixed with 
sand and leaf mould ; the latter ingredient should form 
about a third of the whole, and the sand about a sixth. 
Some of the varieties may be planted in pots during 
the month of April, and others will do very well in 
the open ground if planted early in May, in a sunny 
situation. The bulb should not be set more than half 
its depth in the ground ; as, if planted too deep, it will 
not bloom, the plant deriving its nourishment only 
from the fibres. When the bulbs have done flowering, 
such as are in pots should be watered very sparingly, 
so that they may be perfectly ripened, which will 
cause them to shoot stronger in the ensuing season, 



164 ANEMONES, RANUNCULUSES, AND CROCUSES. 

and those in the ground should be taken up and pre- 
served in sand or paper. 

Anemonjes& Ranunculuses. These are medium, 
or half-hardy roots, producing beautiful little flowers 
of various hues, and are highly deserving of cultiva- 
tion. These roots should be planted in a fresh, well 
pulverised, loamy soil, enriched with cow dung. If 
planted in the garden, the beds ought not to be raised 
above one inch higher than the alleys, and the surface 
should be level, as it is necessary, for the prosperity of 
these plants, rather to retain than to throw oif mois- 
ture. The plants will generally survive our winters ; 
but it is always safest to plant them in such a manner 
that a temporary frame of boards can be placed over 
them, when the weather sets in severe ; and if they 
are to be shaded while in flower, the posts intendedffor 
the awning may be fixed in the ground at the same 
time ; these will serve to nail the boards to, and thus 
answer two purposes. 

Anemones and Rununculuses may be planted in 
October or November, in drills two inches deep, and 
six inches apart; the roots should be placed claws 
downwards, about four inches distant from each other, 
and covered up, leaving the bed quite level. The 
awning need not be erected over the beds until they 
come into flower, which will be early in May. 

Crocuses. — These are hardy little bulbs, said to be 
natives of Switzerland. There are in all about fifty 
varieties of this humble, yet beautiful little plant, em- 
bracing a great variety of hues and complexions, and 
their hardiness and earliness in flower ofler a strong 
motive to their cultivation. The bulbs may be planted 
in October or November, in rows about six inches 
from the edgings ; or if in beds, they may be placed in 
ranks of distinct colours, about four inches apart, and 
from one to two deep, which will afford to their ad- 



CROWN IMPERIAL, COLCHICUM, AND DAHLIA. 165 

mirers considerable amusement and gratification, and 
that at a very early season. They are generally in full 
perfection early in April. 

Crown Imperial. — This is a species of the genus 

Fritillaria, of which there are about twenty species 

and varieties, chiefly natives of Persia. These squa- 

mose bulbs produce tall luxuriant stems, embellished 

with green glossy foliage, and flowers of various hues ; 

but there are only a fewof the most curious cultivated, 

perhaps on account of their odour, which, to some 

persons, is disagreeable. They are, however, very 

hardy, and produce singular and showy flowers, in 

April and May, suited to make a variety to the flower 

border, in which they may be planted in August and 

September, from three to four inches deep ; they need 

not be taken up every year as other bulbs, and when 

they are, which may be about every third year, they 

ought not to be retained too long out of the ground 

before they are again planted as before. 

Colchicum. — This curious little bulb, being planted 
in the month of June, about two inches deep, produces 
its flowers in October, it then dies, without leaving 
any external appearance of seeds ; they, however, lie 
buried in the bulb all the winter, and in spring, pro- 
duce a stalk with seeds, which get ripe by the first of 
June, just in time to plant for flowering in the ensuing 
autumn. How wonderful are the provisions of nature ! 
Double Dahlia. — This may, Avith propriety, be 
denominated one of the most important perennial 
tuberous-rooted plants that can be introduced into a 
garden ; and from the circumstance of its having 
become so fashionable of late years, I have felt anxious 
to furnish in this work a very select list ; I, therefore, 
applied to Mr. G. C. Thorburn, who, from a regular 
correspondence with connoisseurs, both in England 
and America, is acquainted with all the most rare and 

15* 



166 DOUBLE DAHLIA. 

beautiful varieties. He has kindly furnished a list 
and description of about sixty of the choicest, some of 
which are deemed extra fine ; to these I have added 
about a hundred more, all of which are pre-eminent, 
and not a few of them have taken prizes at the English 
and American exhibitions. In making this selection, 
several superb varieties are omitted, not because they 
are undervalued, but for the sake of brevity, which, 
in a work of this kind, must be consulted. Those 
marked A, are considered the very tallest, six feet and 
upvrards. Those marked B, from five to six feet. 
Those ranging between four and fiveTeet, are marked 
C, and the dwarfs are marked D. This plan is adopted, 
because it is difficult to ascertain the exact height 
they will grow^ to, even in one uniform soil and situa- 
tion. The descriptions that follow having been taken 
by different persons, whose soils and situations are 
also various, a diflference in the height of the plants, of 
a foot or more may sometimes be observed. Those 
marked * obtained the greatest number of prizes at 
the various Floricultural and Horticultural exhibitions 
m Great Britain. There are, perhaps, a hundred more 
in this list not far beneath them, and some equally 
worthy of the star or asterisk, but none are marked 
except those which won ten prizes and upwards. 

CATALOGUE OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS. 

Amanda, delicate pink, . . - - C 

Agrippina, mottled, with rosy lilac, [superb,] - D 

Aurantia Pallida, beautiful orange and red, - C 

Aiirantia Speciosa and Speciosissima, both beautiful fine 

orange, . . _ . - C 

Anne Eoleyne, shaded iilac and white, - - D 

Altro Purpurea, two varieties, superba and spediosa, C 

Agamemnon, (Widnall's), rich ruby with fine cupped petaIs,C 
Barrett's Susannah, exquisite purple, flower very compact, A 
Brewer's Rose d' Amour, deep rose tip'd with white [excellentJA 
Brewer's Peerless Orange, scarlet orange, - C 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 167 

* Beauty of Sheffield, edged, (eleven prizes were obtained for this 

fiower last year) in England, 
Beauty of Chiswick, scarlet, . . - B 

* Belladonna, a new shaded flower, won eleven prizes. 
Buchanan'.^ Corapacta, a most perfect formed blight crimson, 

[extra fine,] - . . . - D 

Bona Dea, fine orange scarlet, - - - D 

Brewer's Sulphnrum Majestum, delicate yellow, - C 
Black Prince,( Widnall's), rich dark crimson with black stripes,C 

* Blanda, or Blush Lilac, beautiful lilac, won eleven prizes, B 
Beauty of Camden, extra fine ruby, - - B 
Camellia Flora Alba, snow white, very perfect, [superb,] G 
Columbine, vivid scarlet, - - - - B 
Crimson Multiflora, crimson, - - - D 

* Countess of Liverpool, crimson scarlet, [extra fine,] A 

* Criterion (a new edged flower,) won ten prizes in England 1 
Cicero, beautiful crimson, - - - - C 
Camellia, black puce, - - - - G 
Colvell's Perfecta, fine purple, - - - B 

* Coccinea Speciosissima and Coccineas speciosa, both bright 

scarlet, B 

Coronation, crimson maroon, - - - B 

Carmine Orange, [extra fine,] - - - G 

Canary, fine yellow, - - - D 

Daniel C'Connell, orange scarlet, - - G 

Duchess of Richmond, extra fine scarlet, - G 

Douglas's Augusta, beautiful purple, very large flower, A 

Desdemona, pure white, . - - . B 

Dennisii, ruby purple, [extra fine,] - - - B 

Diana, (Widnall's,) beautiful pink, - - - B 

Donna Maria De Gloria, (Young's), bright rosy crimson, 

[very perfect,] - - - - - G 

Duchess of Braganza, (Young's,) white and lilac with red 

margin [superb,] . - . . D 

Erecta, fine crimson with black stripes, - - D 

Earl Grey, (Miller's,) shaded lilac, - - G 

Emperor of the Yellows, (Sally's,) superb yellow, A 
Earl of Chichester. (Young's,) dark purple, finely striped with 

lilac, - ' - - - - - D 

Fulgida Perfecta, large crimson, - - - B 

Fumes Purpurea, variegated purple striped, - D 

Fair Ellen, fine pink and lilac, [superb,] - - G 

Fimbriata Alba, pure white, - - - C 

Foster's Premier, tine rosy, - - - B 

Foster's Constantia, carmine or crimson, - - B 

* 21 prizes were obtained for the Countess of Liverpool, in 
England last year, and 13 for the Coccinea Speciosissima. 



168 DOUBLE DAHLIA. 

Foster's Niagara, very dark coloured, - - C 
Fair Devonian, beautiful rose pink, [extra fine,] - D 
Golden Yellow, fine yellow, - - - A 
Grandiflora, puce purple, . - . . t^ 
Globe Crimson, ball-flower, quilled, - - - D 
Groombridge's Matchless, fine large purple, [superb,] - Bj 
Golconda, ( Widnali's,) white spotted, [extra fine,] - C" 
Grand Duke of Tuscany, fine black puce, - - C 
Guttata Major, white with purple spots, (extra large flower,) B 
Hermione, beautiful blush, - - - . c 
*Harpalyce, white, won eleven prizes, - - A 
Hall's Mogul, dark purple, - - - . B 
Henry the Eighth, dark maroon, - . . C 
Hall's Palmyra, beautiful plum colour, - - B 
* Incomparable, (Levick's,) scarlet, tipped with white, B 
Incomparable, (Foster's,) beautiful scarlet, - - B 
Inapproachable, pure carmine, [splendid.] - - C 
Imogene, fine variegated, - - . . D 
Involute Purpurea, crimson purple, - - - D 
"f Inwood's Springfield Rival, dark rosy crimson, with singu- 
larly beautiful cupped petals, ... - A 
Jonquille, (Widnali's) fine lemon colour, - - - A 

Juliet, rosy lilac, D 

Jaune Insurmountable, yellow, . . . . B 

Juno, superb lilac, - - - _ - - - - C 

King of Dahlias, pure white, edged with rose pink, [superb,] C 

* King of the Whites, delicate paper white, first rate, - B 
King of the Yellows, (Cutbush's) delicate yellow, - B 
King Alfred, (Miller's) delicate rose lilac, - - C 

* Lord Derby, a first rate dark coloured Dahlia, won 11 prizes, B 

* Lord Liverpool, very dark purple, [excellent,] - - A 

* Lady Grenville, beautiful rose coloured, - - - C 
Lady Grey, beautiful shaded rose, - - - - C 
Lady Fordwich, beautiful blush, .... 
Landgravine, rosy mottled with white, . . . D 

* Levick's Lord Milton, beautiful orange, won 11 prizes, - B 
Linn's Fine Striped, lilac and crimson, [superb,] - A 
Lass of Richmond Hill, beautiful scarlet, - - . B 

* Levick's Commander-in-Chief, crimson, with black stripes, A 
Lord John Russell, scarlet ball, [extra fine,] - - B 
Lord Brougham, dark velvet purple, - . . . B 
Levick's Mozart, extra fine crimson, - - - - D 

Laura, white, with lilac edge, D 

Lady Sefton, beautiful rose coloured} - - - - C 

Lady Fitzharris, fine crimson, C 

Miss Pelham, fine lilac, [beautiful,] - - - - B 

* Inwood's Springfield Rival won 15 prizes, the King of the 
Whites 27, the Lord Liverpool 15, the Lady Grenville 15, Levick's 
Commander-in-Chief, 15, and his Incomparable 11. 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 169 

IVJaculatum, white, with purple spots, - ~ - D 

Man of Kent, fine rich purple, [superb,] . - - C 

* Maid of St. Leonard's, beautiful buft, - - - B 
Metropolitan, fine rose coloured, . . . - D 
Metropolitan striped, fine dove colour, beautifully striped, C 

Miss Dickson, fine lilac, A 

Magnet, (Wells's) fine ruby, <^' 

Matilda, pencil blush, [beauliful,] . . _ . D 

Marchioness of Abercorn, superb blush, [new,] - - G 

Nonpareil, (Widnall's) very compact pink flower, - G 

Neptune, ( Widnall's) exquisite lilac, very large tlower, G 

Nymphse Flora, white spotted, C 

Ne Plus Ultra, light purple, G 

New Scarlet Turban, bright scarlet, . - - - C 

Navarino, rich purple, - G 

Negro Superb, very dark, G 

Negro Boy, jet black, D 

Othello, (V/idnall's) superb dark purple, - - - D 

* Paper White, white, G 

* Priestly's Enchantress, white and red, beautifully mottled, D 
Phillis (Widnall's) fine rosy lilac, with cupped petals, - D 
Pavonia, pencilled straw, _ . . - - G 
Prince George of Cumberland, fine crimson, - - G 
Pygmea, beautiful shaded rose, . . - - D 

PuUa, dark purple, ^ 

Pencilled \Vhite, white spotted with purple, - - B 

Princess Augusta, shaded purple, . . _ - B 

Paroquet, cream and crimson, [extra fine,] - - '. ^ 

* Picta Formosissima, light orange, with beautiful scarlet stripes.B 
Paul's Rival, brilliant scarlet, - - - - - G 
Paganini; very dark and fine, - _ - - - - 
Perfection, (Wells's) rose blush and white, [excellent,] - G 
Polyphemus, large crimson purple, - - - - D 
Purpurea Elata, fine purple, ----- G 

* Glueen of Dahlias, white, with rosy hlac edge, [superb,] C 

■" Q.ueen of the Whites, (Dennis's) paper white, very large, B * 

Glueen of Wurtemburg, mottled purple, - - - B 

Clueen Adelaide, (Connelly's) fine bright scarlet, - B 

Queen of the Yellows, yellow, B 

Glueenof the Purples, pium colour, - - - - A 

Glueen of Pcoses, (VVidnali's) rose coloured, very fine, - G 

Q,ueenofSheba,( Wells's) fine deep yellow, - - D 

Q.ueen of Belgium, white, elegantly tipped with purple, G 

dueen of August, beautiful light purple, - . - G 

Romulus, large scarlet, B 

* The Maid of St. Leonard's won 10 prizes; the Paper 
White, 11 ; Priestly's Enchantress, 12, Picta Formosissima, 14'; 

the Glueen of the Dahlias 24, and the Q,ueen of the Whiles 10. 



170 DOUBLE DAHLIA. 

* Royal Lilac, fine lilac, won 12 prizes, - - - C 
RoyalDwarfOiange, scarlet orange, - - - - G 
Rising Sun, (Widnall's) extra fine scarlet, - - - A 
Richardson's Alicia, white spotted, [beautiful,] - - D 
Star of Sussex, splendid scarlet, - - - - C 
Seale's Invincible, dark maroon, with bright crimson stripes, G 
Scarlet Ranunculus, fine scarlet, - - - - C 
Sulphurea Majestum, fine yellow, - - - - A 
Striata, white, with purple stripes, [beautiful,] - - G j 

* Shannon, (Levick's) large crimson, won 10 prizes, - A 
Stephania, fine dark maroon, - - - - - D 
Surpass Triumph Royal, rosy lilac, - - - G 
Squibb's Pure Yellow, very delicate yellow, - - B 
Squibb's Master-Piece, fine scarlet, - - - - G ' 
Transcendanta, delicate French white, - - - C 
Theodore, delicate lilac, --._.. C 
Widnall's Cleopatra, beautiful blush, lilac, - - D 
Widnall's Salamander, scarlet, extra large flower, - A 
Widnall's Comus, fine brilliant yellow, - - G 

* Widnall's Prince of Orange, beautiful orange, - - A 
Widnall's Aurora, fine scarlet, , _ . , G 

* Widnall's Jason, bright yellow, . . _ . C 
Wells's Dwarf Yellow, bright yellow, - - - - D 
*, Widnall's Perfection, beautiful rosy lilac, with cupped petals, G 
Widnall's Flora, fine quilled rose, _ - . . D 
William the Fourth, (Barret's) fine scarlet, - - G 

* Widnall's Granta, purple, with cupped petals, - - G 
Zelinda, beautiful purple, D 

Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of these 

plants. In March or April, the roots, if properly 

kept through the winter, will begin to sprout around 

the old stems and tubers. To forward these sprouts 

in growth, the roots should be either buried in light 

earth, on the top of a moderate hot-bed, or else potted, 

and then set into a warm room, or green-house, and 

watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to the 

length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided 

in such a manner as to have a good strong shoot 

attached to a piece of the tuber, or old stem; each of 

these will, if properly managed, make a plant. Those 

who may commence cultivating at an early season, 

♦ Widnall appears to have been the champion for Dahlias; his 
Prince of Orange won 20 prizes, his Jason 15, his Perfection 25, 
and his Granta 15 ; he also took several prizes for others in this list. 



DOUBLE DAHLIA. 171 

should put the plants thus separated into small pots, 
and keep them in a growing state until about the 
middle of May, at which time they may be turned out 
of the pots with the balls of earth entire, and planted 
in the open borders, from three to four feet from each 
other. Let the ground be well pulverised, and en- 
riched with good old manure, before the plants are set 
out. If the top soil be shallow, and the subsoil infe- 
rior, it would be beneficial to the plants, if holes be 
dug to the depth of from a foot to eighteen inches, and 
then replenished with good rich compost, consisting of 
two-thirds fresh loam, and one-third of w^ell-rotted 
manure. 

Many cultivators have found late planting to suit 
better than early, and I myself had more perfect flowers 
last year, from plants set out about the mid, lie of June, 
than from those planted in May : this is easily ac- 
counted for. In July and August the weather was 
remarkably hot, which brought the forwardest plants 
into bud at an early season, and in consequence of a 
continuation of hot dry weather, such buds failed to 
produce perfect flowers ; whereas those plants which 
were set out late, kept growing through the hot wea- 
ther.^and produced their buds just in time to receive all 
the benefit of the autumnal rains. From a consideration 
of these facts, I think early in June the safest time to 
set out Dahlia plants ; and if those persons who have 
no convenience of forcing their roots, set them out in 
May, in ground prepared as before directed, they will 
generally succeed very well, provided they take care 
to cover them in case of a cold change of weather. 
The roots may be thus cultivated entire, as is fre- 
quently done ; but if it be desired to have them parted, 
this business is easily accomplished without disturbing 



172 GLADIOLUS, OR SWORD LILY. 

the rootSj and the offsets may be planted in the ground 
separately, or potted. 

After the plants have grown about two or three 
feet high, it will be necessary to provide for their pre 
servation through the varied changes of the season, or 
a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expectations of 
a year. The branches of the Dahlia are extremely 
brittle, and, therefore, a good stout pole, or neat stake, 
should be driven down near each root, of a suitable 
height, so that the branches, as they progress in 
growth, may be tied thereto at every joint, which 
may be done with shreds of matting or twine. If the 
poles be in readiness, they are much more easily fixed 
at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterwards; 
but it may be done at any time after the ground has 
been softened by rain, provided it be not delayed too 
long, so as to to subject the plants to risk. Sometimes 
a few forward buds of the Dahlia will exhibit their 
premature beauties to the beams of a July and August 
sun ; but their lustre is quickly dimmed. The latter 
end of September, sometimes all October, and part of 
November, witness the Dahlia in all its glory ; and 
dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes blos- 
som at Christmas. 

Gladiolus Corn Flag, or Sword Lilly. Of this genus 
of bulbs there are about fifty species, natives of the 
Cape of Good Hope. They produce flowers of various 
colours in August and September, and are well worthy 
the attention of those who cultivate tender exotic plants. 
They may be planted in September or October, about 
an inch deep in pots, which must be kept in a green- 
house or light room, and watered sparingly until they 
begin to grow. The following are known to be superb 
species and varieties : 

G. Alatus, or Wing Flowered, producing bright 
orange coloured flowers. 



GLADIOLUS. 173 

€r. blandus, produces flowers of a beautiful blush 
rose colour. 

G. byzantinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate 
purple flowers. 

G. cardinalis. This variety produces very large 
flowers, of superb scarlet colour, spotted with white. 

G. floribundus, or Cluster Flower, produces large 
flowers, of pink and white colour. 

The Gladiolus natalensis, or psittacinus, is perhaps 
the most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blos- 
soms freely, and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. 
In its progress of blooming, it exhibits variable colours, 
as vermilion, red, yellow, green, white, crimson, &c. 
which brighten, as the flower arrives at perfection, to 
the brilliancy of a rainbow. Another good quality 
displays itself in the bulb, which, if properly managed, 
will yield an abundance of ofiisets ; these being culti- 
vated, will flower the third year in perfection, and 
thus continue to multiply perpetually. 

I have named September and October as the season 
for planting, because it is considered the preferable 
season for most bulbs ; but if these be preserved in 
good condition through the winter, until early in 
April, and then planted in a soil consisting of about 
one half fresh loam, equal parts of leaf mould, and 
sand well mixed, they may be forwarded in a warm 
room, greenhouse, or moderate hot-bed, until settled 
warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into 
a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at 
noonday ; this will induce each of them to throw up 
three or four stems from three to four feet high, each 
stem producing five or six gorgeous blossoms, in great 
perfection. Those planted in the fall or winter, may 
also be turned out of the pots in June ; and, from the 
fibres having taken substantial root in the soil before 
transplanting, such plants may be taken up again in 

16 



174 HYACINTH. 

August, or early in September ; and on being planted 
in large pots, they may be removed, so as to perfect 
their bloom, within view of the parlour or sitting-room. 
which will aflford considerable amusement and gra- 
tification. 

Hyacinth. — There are, as has been already stated, 
about thirteen hundred varieties of this family of 
plants, comprising all the various hues, as white, 
pink, red, yellow, blue, purple, crimson, &c., and 
some of those with various coloured eyes. They begin 
to produce their flowers in the open borders early in 
April, on short erect stems covered with florets or 
small bells ; each floret is well filled with petals rising 
towards the centre, and is suspended from the stem by 
short strong footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and 
the uppermost florets stand so erect as to form a 
pyramid. A plantation, or a bed of these, have a very 
beautiful appearance, provided they are Avell attended 
to. In planting them, which should be in the months 
of October or November, care should be taken to have 
the colours so diversified as to suit the fancy ; they 
may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight 
inches apart, and from three to four inches deep, 
measuring from the top of the bulb, and covered up at 
the setting in of winter, as before recommended for 
bulbs in general. Those who may have a fine collec- 
tion, should have an awning erected in the Spring, to 
screen them from the chilling blast, and also from 
drenching rains and the noonday sun ; and they should 
be looked over as soon as they make their appearance 
above ground, to see if they are all perfect and regu- 
lar ; if any faulty or inferior ones should appear to 
have been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by 
accident or mistake, they can be taken out, and by 
shortening the rows, others may be substituted with 
a trowel. When all are regulated, look over them 



IRIS AND IXIAS. 175 

frequently, and as the stems shoot up, tie them to 
wires, or small rods, with shreds of bass matting or 
thread, being careful not to injure the florets. In 
about six weeks after they have done flowering, they 
may be taken up, and managed as recommended for 
bulbs in general in a former page. 

Iris, or Flower de Luce. — There are two dis- 
tinct species of plants cultivated under the name of 
Flower de Luce, each consisting of several varieties. 
The bulbous species and varieties are designated as 
English, Spanish, Persian, Chalcedonian, and Ameri- 
can. These, if introduced into the flower borders, and 
intermixed with perennial plants of variable colours, 
have a very pretty appearance when planted in 
clumps or patches. This may be done in the month 
of October, by taking out a spadeful of earth from 
each place allotted for a plant, and then inserting three 
or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the ground be 
poor, some rich compost may be dug in around the 
spot before the bulbs are planted, and if several sorts 
be planted in the same border, let them be of various 
colours. 

The tuberous-rooted are of various colours, as blue, 
yellow, brown, and spotted ; they are easily cultivated, 
and flower freely in a loose soil inclining to moisture, 
if planted in March or April. 

IxiAS. — These are tender but very free-flowering 
bulbs, producing from their stems, which vary in 
height from six inches to two feet, very delicate 
flowers of various colours, as orange, blush, Avhite, 
purple, green, crimson, scarlet, and some have two 
and three colours connected in the same plant. There 
are, in all, upwards of twenty species, which may be 
cultivated in the greenhouse, by planting the bulbs in 
pots in September or October, and placing them near 
the light, and then watering them sparingly until they 
begin to shoot.. 



176 JONQUIL, LAGHENALIAS, AND LILIUM. 

Jonquil. — This is a hardy race of bulbs, and pro- 
duces very deUcate yellow flowers early in May. 
There are different variotieSj some of which are single 
flowering and others double. Their fragrance is very 
grateful, being similar to that of Jasmines. The bulbs 
may be planted about two inches deep in the flower 
borders, or in pots, in October, or before the setting in 
of winter ; they flower better the second year than in 
the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and re- 
planted oftener than once in three years. 

Lachenalias. — These are tender little bulbs, 
natives of the Cape of Good Hope. There are sup- 
posed to be in all, about forty species and varieties. 
Those most cultivated with us, are the Lachenalia 
quadri-colour, and the tri-coloured, which are very 
beautiful when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of 
various colours, on a stem of from six inches to a foot 
in height, and much in the character of Hyacinths. 
The colours which are yellow, scarlet,^ orange, green? 
&c., are very pure and distinct. L. nervosa, L. 
orchoides, L. punctata, and L. rubida, are all ex" 
cellent species, and worthy of cultivation. They 
may be planted from one two inches deep, in small 
pots, in the Month of August and September, and 
Avatered but sparingly until they begin to grow. 

LiLiUM. — There are several plants under this name, 
of different genera, some of which are indigenous. 
The Canada Lily, with yellow-spotted drooping 
flowers, may be seen in wet meadows towards the 
last of Jane and early in July. The Philadelphia 
Lily blooms also in July ; its flowers are red. There 
are some pure white, and others yellow, growing in 
various parts of the country. Among the foreign 
genera are several species. Of the Martagon, or 
Turks'-cap Lilies, there are some beautiful varie- 
ties ; as the Caligula, which produces scarlet flowers; 



WAUCISSUB. 177 

and there is one called the Crown of Tunis, of purple 
colour ; besides these, are the Double Violet Flamed, 
the White, the Orange, and the spotted : these are all 
hardy, and may be planted in various parts of the 
garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then* 
after manuring and pulverising it, the bulbs may be 
planted thereinbefore the setting in of winter, at diffe- 
rent depths, from two to four inches, according to the 
size of the bulbs. Some of the Chinese varieties are 
very beautiful, as the Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the 
Dwarf Red Lilium con colour ; there are others with 
elegant silver stripes, which are very showy, and 
there is one called Lilium superbum, that has been 
known to have twenty -five flowers on a stalk. Be- 
sides those above enumerated, there are some others 
which are generally cultivated in greenhouses, as the 
Calla, or Ethiopian Lily ; and the following, which 
have been known to endure our winters, by protecting 
them with dung, &c., Lilium Longiflorum, in two va- 
rieties ; these produce on their stalks, which grow 
from twelve to eighteen inches high, beautiful rose- 
coloured flowers, streaked with white, which are very 
sweet-scented. These roots are sometimes kept out 
of the ground until spring, and then planted in the 
flower borders, but they should be preserved carefully 
in sand, or dry light mould. Lilium Japonicum. Of 
these there are two varieties, which produce several 
stalks at once, yielding very showy flowers. One of 
the varieties is blue-flowered, and the other produces 
flowers of the purest white. 

Narcissus. — The species and varieties of this plant 
are numerous. The Incomparable is perfectly hardy, 
and produces its flowers in April, which are called by 
some pasche, or paus flowers, by others, butter and 
eggs ; perhaps because their bright yellow petals are 

16* 



178 OR:fITH0GALU3I. 

SO surrounded with large white ones. Some dislike 
the smell of these, and it is said that the odour has a 
pernicious ejQfect upon the nerves ; hut the white fra- 
grant double, as well a<s all the Roman and Polyan- 
thus Narcissus, are free from this objection, being of a 
very grateful and agreeable smell. Some of these are 
justly held in great esteem for their earliness, as well 
as for their varied colours. The Grand Monarque de 
France, tlie Belle Legoise, and some others, have 
white flowers with yellow cups. The Glorieux has a 
yellow ground, with orange-coloured cups ; besides 
these there are some white and citron-coloured, as the 
Ijuna, and others entirely white, as the Reine Blanche, 
and Morgenster. All these varieties are very suitable 
either for the parlour or greenhouse, and may be 
planted in pots, from October to December, from two 
to three inches deep. The Double Roman Narcissus 
are very sweet-scented ; if these be planted in pots, or 
put into bulb glasses in the month of October, they 
will flower in January and February. 

Polyanthus Narcissus are more dehcate than Hya- 
cinths or Tulips ; when they are planted in the open 
borders, they^should be covered about four inclies with 
earth, and before the setting in of winter, it is advisable 
to cover the beds with straAV, leaves, or litter, to the 
depth of six or seven inches, and to uncover them 
about the middle of March. 

Ornithogalum, or Star of Bethlehem. — 
There are about fifty varieties of these bulbs, natives 
of the Cape of Good Hope, some of which are from 
three to five inches in diameter, and shaped similar to 
a pear ; others are much like Hyacinth bulbs. — 
Amongst those cultivated in America are the O. lac- 
teum and the 0. aureum ; the former produces fine 
white flowers, and the spike is about a foot in length ; 
and the latter produces flowers of a golden colour, in 



OXALIS AND FiEONY. 17'9 

contracted racemose corymbs. The O. maritimum, or 
Sea Squill, is curious : from the centre of the root arise 
several shining glaucous leaves, a foot long, two inches 
broad at the base, and narrowing to a point. If kept 
in a greenhouse, these are green during winter, and 
decay in the spring ; then the flower-stalk comes up, 
rising two feet, naked half way, and terminated by a 
pyramidal thyrse of white flowers. These bulbs are 
generally cultivated in the greenhouse, and require a 
compost consisting of about one-half fresh loam, two- 
sixths leaf mould, and the remainder sand, in which 
they may be planted in September. When cultivated 
in tiie garden, they should be planted four or five 
inches deep, and protected with dung, &c. They pro- 
duce their flowers early in June. 

OxALiES. — These are natives of the Cape of Good 
Hope ; the species are numerous, and their roots are 
very small bulbs, articulated, jointed, or granulated, 
in a manner peculiar to this genus. They produce 
curious flowers of various hues, yellow, purple, rose, 
red, white, striped, vermilion colour, &c. The bulbs 
should be planted in very small pots in August and 
September, in a compost, consisting of about two-thirds 
loam, and one-third leaf or light mould, and treated in 
the same manner as other Cape Bulbs. They increase 
in a peculiar manner, by the parent bulb striking a 
fibre down from its base, at the extremity of which is 
produced a new bulb for the next years' plant, the oFd 
one perishing. These plants will flower freely in a 
greenhouse. 

P^oNY. — Of this genus of splendid plants there 
are known to be about twenty species, and as many 
varieties. It is said that the Paeonia officinalis rubra, 
or common double red Paeony, was introduced int© 
Antwerp upwards of two centuries ago, at which time 
it. was sold at an enormous price. It has since been. 



ISO P.EONY. 

highly esteemed in Europe and America, and is to be 
found in ail well-established gardens, exhibiting its 
vivid crimson petals early in June. Many superb 
species have of late years been brought from China, a 
few of which may be noticed, with some others which 
are in very great repute. 

Paeonia alba Chinensis, is one of the finest of the 
herbaceous sorts. The flowers are white, tinged with 
pink at the bottom of the petals. 

P. edulis whitliji has also white flowers, which are 
very large and splendid. 

P. edulis fragrans, is a fine large double scarlet 
variety, and produces flowers perfumed like the rose. 

P. Humei has beautiful large double dark blush- 
coloured flowers. 

P. paradoxa fimbriata, produces fringed double red 
flowers, which are very beautiful. 

These are all hardy, and may be planted about four 
inches deep in the garden, in October or November, 
The flowers exhibit themselves to the best advantage 
when planted on a bed that is elevated, and of a cir- 
cular form. 

The following are half-hardy and half-shrubby ; 
these have been known to survive the winter by being 
well protected, but are kept much better in a green- 
house ; and they also exhibit their flowers to greater 
advantage than when exposed to the full sun : 

P. moutan Banksii, or Tree Paeony, produces very 
large double blush flowers in abundance, with feathered 
edges to every petal. This variety is highly deserv- 
ing of cultivation. 

P. moutan rosea is a fine rose-coloured double va- 
riety, and produces very splendid flowers. 

P. moutan papaveracea produces large double 
•white flowers, with pink centres. This splendid va- 



TULIP. 



181 



riety frequently bear flowers from nine to eleven 
inches in diameter. 

Besides the above, are several others of various 
colours, some of which are semi-double. 

Tulip. — The Tulip is a native of the Levant, and 
has been in cultivation nearly three centuries. It 
may be justly entitled the King of Flowers, for the 
brilliancy and endless combination of all colours 
and shades. The varieties of the Tulip are very nu- 
merous, and are divided into different classes. Those 
cultivated in regular beds by amateurs are rose-co- 
loured, Bybloemen, and Bizarres. There are a great 
many beautiful varieties, denominated Parrot Tulips, 
which have notched petals, and striped, or diversified; 
with green ; and also some very dwarfish kinds, both 
single and double, which are generally cultivated in 
parlours and greenhouses. 

Mr. T. Hogg, of Paddington, near London, has 
published a work, entitled, " A Treatise on the Cul- 
ture of Florists' Flowers," which comprises the Tulip, 
Carnation, Auricula, Ranunculus, Polyanthus, Dahlia, 
German China Asters, Seedling Heartsease, and New 
Annuals. In that work, which is dedicated to Queen 
Adelaide, the author remarks that the cultivation of 
the Tulip is one of the most fascinating and pleasing 
pursuits imaginable, and that when the " Tulip 
mania has fairly got hold of any one, it sticks to him 
like the skin on his back, and remains with him for 
the rest of his life." He instances a Mr. Davey, of 
Chelsea, as being in his seventy-fifth year, and in 
whose breast the fancy for Tulips was so predominant, 
that in the autumn of 1832 he was induced to part 
with a hundred sovereigns for one single Tulip, named 
'' Miss Fanny Kemble." Perhaps a better definition 
of what constitutes the properties of a good Tulip 



182 TULIP. 

could not be given than a description of this '' precious 
gem, or loveliest of all Tulips ;" but, lest my readers 
should conclude that the old gentleman was in his 
dotage, I would inform them that this favourite bulb 
was purchased of the executors of the late Mr. Clarke, 
with whom it originated, and that it had not only 
been the pet of its late owner, but had excited the 
envy and admiration of all the amateurs who went to 
view it. 

'' This precious gem, a Bybloemen Tulip, was raised 
from one of Mr. Clarke's seedling breeders, and broke 
into colour three years ago ; it has produced two off- 
sets since, and is adapted to the second or third row in 
the bed ; the stem is firm and elastic ; the foliage full 
and broad, of a lively green ; the cup large, and of the 
finest form; the white pure, and wholly free from 
stain ; the pencilling on the petals is beautifully 
marked with black or dark purple, and the feathering 
uniform and elegant ; it preserves its shape to the last, 
the outer leaves not sinking from the inner ; in a 
word, it is considered the first flower of its class, and 
the best that has ever been produced in England." 

The article in the work already alluded to, on the 
cultivation of Tulips alone, occupies ninety -six pages; 
I, therefore, cannot attempt any thing more than an 
abridgement of the author's ideas on some important 
points. Those of my readers who may desire full in- 
formation, are referred to the work itself, which may 
be obtained of Mr. G. C. Thorburn. 

The following description may serve to govern the 
choice of amateurs : Tulips exhibited at the shows 
are, in general, classed and distinguished as follows : 
Flamed Bizarres, Feathered Bizarres, Flamed^ By- 
bloemens. Feathered Bybloemens, Flamed BoseSj 
Feathered Roses, and Selfs, or plain coloured. 



TULIP. 183f 

A Bizarre Tulip has a yellow ground, marked with 
purple or scarlet of diflferent shades ; it is called flamed 
when a broad irregular stripe runs up the middle of 
the petals, with short abrupt projecting points, branch- 
ing out on each side ; fine narrow lines, called arched 
and ribbed, often extend, also, from this broad stripe 
to the extremity of the leaves ; the colour generally 
appearing strongest in the inside petals ; a Tulip, 
with this broad coloured stripe, which is sometimes 
called beamed or splashed, is, at the same time, 
frequently feathered also. 

It is called feathered when it is without this broad 
stripe ; but yet it may have some narrow hues, joined 
or detached, running up the centre of the leaf, some- 
times branching out and carved towards the top, and 
sometimes without any spot or line at all ; the petals 
are feathered more or less round the edges or margin, 
inside and out, the pencilling or feathering is heavy 
or broad in some, and light or narrow in others, some- 
times with breaks or gaps, and sometimes close, and 
continued all round. 

A Bybloemen Tulip has a white ground, lined, 
marked, striped, or variegated with violet or purple- 
only of various shades ; and whether feathered or 
flamed, is distinguished by the same characters and 
marks which are pointed out and applied to the Bi- 
zarred Tulips. 

A Rose Tulip is marked or variegated with rose, 
scarlet, crimson, or cherry colour, on a white ground ; 
and the Feathered Rose is to be distinguished from 
the Flamed by the same rules, as described before ; 
the Rose is very often both feathered and flamed, 

A Self, or Plain-coloured Tulip, properly so called, 
is either white or yellow, and admits of no farther 
change ; other plain-coloured Tulips, whether red or 
purple, are called breeders, and are hardly worthy 



1B4 TULIP. 

of being exhibited. Mr. Hogg informs us, that £100 
say ^500, judiciously expended at the present time, 
will give a moderate-sized bed that shall contain the 
greater part of the finest varieties grown ; such a bed 
as £250 would not not have purchased twelve or 
fourteen years ago. To describe minutely the mode of 
planting a regular bed of Tulips would exceed our 
limits ; suffice it to state that the name of every bulb 
should be Avritten in a book, and that they should be 
so classed as to have all the varied colours to show 
advantageously; to this end, the tallest should be 
allotted for the middle of the bed, and others in regular 
gradation, so as to have the most dwarfish on the sides. 
The bulbs must be covered with good mould, to the 
depth of three inches from the top of the bulb on the 
sides of the bed, and about four inches in the middle. 
Let a small spoonful of clean drift sand be used around 
each bulb, and see that the bed be left sufficiently 
round from the middle to the edges. The beginner 
must understand that no unsightly tallies, or number 
sticks, are to distinguish the Tulips ; but that he must 
adopt a sort of ground plan, dividing the whole bed 
into rows of seven bulbs across ; for example, take and 
write down the names and places of the Tulips in the 
first row, and continue the same form all through to 
the other end of the bed. 





Row 1st. 




No. 1. 


Fenelon, - - - » 


this is a Bybloemen 


S. 


Duchess of Clarence, 


Rose-coloured. 


3. 


Charlemagne, - - - 


Bybloemen. 


4. 


Louis the Sixteenth, - 


do. 


5. 


Memnon, - - - - 


Bizarre. 


6. 


Volney, - - . . 


Bybloemen. 


7. 


Lady Crewe, - - - 


Rose-coloured. 



Good fresh loam, taken from under healthy grass 



TULIP AND TUBEROSE 



1». 



sods, is the most suitable soil for Tulips to grow in : 
under which should be buried, to the depth of a foot, 
about two inches thickness of well rotted cow or horse 
droppings. The reason for placing the dung so low 
is, that the fibres may get down to it, (which they will 
do,) and that the bulbs may not be injured by it, as is 
apt to be the case if too much dung is used around 
them. The best time for planting the bulbs, is early 
in November, and the beds should be made a fortnight 
previous, in order that the earth may become sufficient- 
ly settled. If severe frosts set in after the Tulips show 
themselves above ground in the spring, some protec- 
tion should be given ; single mats placed over hoop 
bends answer very well ; and at the time of blooming, 
an awning should be erected over them, sufficient to 
screen the Tulips from the intense heat of the sun, 
which awning should be sufficiently spacious to admit 
of persons walking under, to view the beautiful flow- 
ers to the greatest possible advantage. 

Tuberose.— This fragrant and delightful flower 
has been cultivated in English flower gardens for 
ui) wards of two centuries ; with them, the bulbs are 
generally cultivated in pots, early in the spring, and 
transferred to the flower borders as soon as it becomes 
settled warm weather; for they are very tender. 
They generally succeed very well here, if planted at 
once in the open borders towards the end of April, and 
produce flowers which are pure white, and highly 
odoriferous, on a stem from three to four feet high. 
The bulbs produce a number of offsets, which should 
be preserved with the parent plants through the 
winter, and then parted off" and planted by themselves 
in April or early in May, to produce flowering roots 
for the ensuing year. These roots thrive best in a 
light rich soil well pulverised, in which they should be 

17 



186 TIGER FLOWEK. 

planted about two inches deep, not forgetting to take 
them up again before the approach of winter. 

Tiger Flower. — Perhaps there is no flower treated 
of in this work, that is more beautiful than some of the 
species of the genus Tigridia. Like all Mexican bulbs, 
these are tender, and should either be cultivated in the 
greenhouse, or carefully preserved until settled warm 
weather, and then planted in good light soil, in a 
sheltered situation. A bed of these beautiful flowers 
would afford as much gratification to some, as a bed 
of Tulips. The Tigridia conchiiflora is of a rich 
yellow colour, tinged and spotted with bright crimson ; 
the colours are very vivid and purely contrasted. The 
Tigridia pavonia is of the brightest scarlet, tinged and 
spotted with brilliant yellow. The coralla, which is 
about four inches in diameter, is composed of six 
petals; the outer petals are thrown backward, and 
exhibit the blossom in all its splendour, which exists 
only a single day ; but as if to compensate for its 
transient visit, each plant will produce numerous 
flowers ; and where a bed of them can be collected, 
they will amuse their admirers for several weeks, from 
July to September. In such a case, the bulbs may 
be planted about two inches deep, and from twelve to 
fifteen inches apart, towards the end of April or early 
in May, and taken up again in October, to preserve 
for planting the ensuing year. 



OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE 

CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS, IN POTS OR 
GLASSES, IN THE WINTER SEASON. 

The culture of bulbous roots in a greenhouse, or light 
room, during the winter, is comparatively easy, pro- 
Yided two points be attended to ; the first is to keep 



CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS. 187 

them near the light, and to turn the pots or glasses 
round frequently, to prevent their growing crooked ; 
and the second is, when the plants have done growin,g, 
to give those in pots little or no water; for want of 
attention to these points, bulbs have been known to 
produce foliage, year after year, without showing- any 
blossoms. All bulbs have a certain period of the year 
in which they are in a dormant state ; this, in a state 
of nature, is invariably after the seeds are ripened ; 
but as in a greenhouse, many of this family do not 
ripen seeds, the cultivator should M'atch the period 
when the leaves show indications of decay ; at which 
time, the supplies of water should be lessened, and 
shortly afterwards the earth should be suffered to get 
dry, and to remain so until the season returns, when 
the bulbs regerminate. Many sorts of bulbs are best 
kept in pots, under the soil, in a dry shady place, and 
in the same temperature as that in which they are 
in the habit of growing ; but others, such as Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Narcissus, &c. may be taken out of the soil and 
preserved, as before directed, until the proper season 
for replanting. 

Dutch Bulbous roots intended for blooming in pots 
during the winter season, should be planted during 
the months of October and November, and be left 
exposed to the open air until it begins to freeze, 
and then be placed in the greenhouse, or in a room 
where a lire is usually made. They will need moderate 
occasional waterings, until they begin to grow ; then 
they should have abundance of air in mild weather, 
and plenty of water from the saucers, underneath the 
pots, whilst in a growing state ; and should be ex- 
posed as much as possible to the sun, air, and light, 
to prevent the foliage from growing too long, or 
becoming yellow. 

For this purpose, single Hyacinths, and such as are 



188 CULTURE OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN ROOMS. 

designated earliest among the double, are to be pre- 
ferred. Single Hyacinths are generally held in less 
estimation than double ones, their colours, however, 
are more vivid, and their bells, though smaller, are 
more numerous ; some of the finer sorts are exquisitely 
beautiful ; they are preferable for flowering in winter 
to most of the double ones, as they bloom two or three 
weeks earlier, and are very sweet-scented. Roman 
Narcissus, Double Jonquilles, Polyanthus Narcissus, 
Double Narcissus,' and Crocuses, also make a fine 
appearance in the parlour during winter. It is a re- 
markable circumstance of the Crocus, tliat it keeps its 
petals expanded during tolerably bright candle or 
lamp light, in the same way as it does during the light 
of the sun. If the candle be removed, the Crocuses 
close their petals, as they do in the garden w^hen a 
cloud obscures the sun ; and when the artificial light 
is restored, they open again, as they do with the 
return of the direct solar rays. 

Hyacinths and other bulbs intended for glasses, 
should be placed in them about the middle of Novem- 
ber, the glasses being previously filled with pure 
water, so that the bottom of the bulb may just touch 
the water ; then place them for the first ten days in a 
dark room to promote the shooting of the roots ; after 
w^hich expose them to the light and sun as mucli 
as possible. They will blow, however, without any 
sun ; but the colours of the flowers will be inferior. 
The water should be changed as often as it becomes 
impure ; draw the roots entirely out of the glasses, 
rinse off the fibres in clean w^ater, and also the glasses 
inside ; care should be taken not to suffer the water to 
freeze, as it not only bursts the glasses, but often causes 
the fibres to decay. Whether the water be hard or 
soft is of no great consequence ; but soft, or rain water, 
is generally preferred, and it must be perfectly clear. 



MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 189 

Forced bulbs are seldom good for any thing after- 
wards ; however, those who wish to preserve them, 
may immerse them wholly in water for a few weeks ; 
and then having taken them up, and dried them in 
the shade for a few days, they may be planted in a 
good soil, when they will sometimes flower the second 
year. It does not clearly appear in what way the 
Avater operates when the bulb is wholly immersed ; 
but it is certain that bulbs so treated increase in size 
and solidity by it, and have an incomparably better 
chance of flowering the second year, than those which 
have not been so treated. Most probably their total 
immersion enables them to obtain a greater proportion 
of oxygen from the water. 

Nosegays should have the water in which their ends 
are inserted changed, on the same principle as bulbous 
roots ; and a much faded nosegay, or one dried up, 
may often be recovered for a time, by covering it with 
a glass bell, or cup, or by substituting warm water for 
cold. 

Very fine Hyacinths have been grown in a drawing 
room, in the following novel manner. A quantity of 
mossj classically called hypnum, and vulgarly fog, 
was placed in a water-tight box, about eight or nine 
inches deep, into which the bulbs were placed at the 
end of September, without mould, and duly watered. 
The result of this experiment was highly favourable. 



OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE 

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE 
PLANTS. 

Having already exceeded my limits, I am compelled 
to be brief in my observations on such ornamental 
plants as are generally cultivated in hot and green- 

17* 



190 MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

houses. This description of plants embraces those 
which are collected from various climates, and thrive 
best in a temperature and soil similar to that in which 
nature first produced them : hence they who propagate 
exotic plants, must provide suitable composts, and also 
separate departments, where the different degrees of 
heat may be kept up, according to their nature and 
description. Some of these are raised from seed sown 
in the spring, others by layers, suckers, and offsets 
detached from the old plants, and many by slips and 
cuttings, planted at different seasons of the year, ac- 
cording to their varied natures, and state of the plants. 
Many kinds require the aid of glass coverings and 
bottom heat, created by fresh horse dung, tan, &c. 

Were I to attempt to give directions for the propa- 
gation of all the varieties of useful and ornamental 
exotic plants cultivated in various parts of our country, 
it would require an entire volume. The catalogue of 
greenhouse plants alone kept by the enterprising pro- 
prietor of the Linnean Botanic Garden at Flushing, 
occupies fifty pages of close matter ; it would, there- 
fore, be impossible to do justice to the subject, without 
dividing upwards of two thousand varieties of plants 
into classes, according to their varied natures, and 
treating of them under distinct heads ; I shall, there- 
fore, not attempt, in this edition, to write largely on 
the subject. 

In order to render this little work useful to those 
who may wish to avail themselves of the pleasure o^ 
nursing some of those beauties of nature in their own 
dwelling-houses, during the most chilling days of our 
severe winters, and to afford amusement to the ladies, 
at a season when our gardens are deprived of their 
loveliest charms, I shall discuss some essential points 
connected with the management of greenhouse plants, 
in as explicit a manner as possible. 



MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 191 

The following hints were selected for the first edition 
of the Young Gardener's Assistant, and appear to the 
author to embrace the most important points connected 
with the care of plants in the winter season. 

The generality of those denominated greenhouse 
plants, and which are kept in rooms, should be placed 
where they can have the light of the sun, without 
being exposed to frost. Air, heat, and moisture are 
essential to the growth of plants ; but these should 
be given in due proportions, according to circumstan- 
ces. In frosty weather they should be kept from the 
external air, and watered very sparingly. When 
water is necessary, it should be applied in tlie morning 
of a mild sunny day. The plants should be kept free 
from decayed leaves, and the earth at the top of the 
pots should be sometimes loosened to a moderate depth, 
and replenished with a portion of fresli compost. 
Plants kept in private houses are often killed with 
kindness. The temperature of a room in the winter 
need not be more than ten degrees above freezing. If 
plants are healthy, they may be kept so by attention 
to the preceding hints; unhealthiness generally arises 
from their being subjected to the extremes of heat, cold, 
or moisture, or from total neglect. 

In order that the ideas above advanced may be duly 
considered, it may be useful to indulge in a more 
minute description of the nature of plants, and to show 
in what manner the elements operate upon them. It 
is an acknowledged fact, that the roots of plants re- 
quire moisture, and therefore penetrate the earth in 
search of it, and that the plants themselves are greatly 
nourished by air, and spread their branches and leaves 
to catch as much as possible its enlivening influence. 
Light also is so far essential, that there can be no 
colour without it; witness the blanching of celery and 
endive, where the parts deprived of light become 



192 MANAGEMENT OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 

white ; place a plant in almost any situation, it will 
invariably show a tendency to turn to the light ; the 
sunflower is a striking example of this singular fact. 
As the leaves supply the plant with air, and the fibres 
of the roots supply it with nourishment, to strip off" the 
leaves or destroy the fibres, is to deprive it of part of 
its means of support. Having shown that air and 
Avater are essential to vegetation, and light to its 
colour, experience shows us that heat, in a greater or 
less degree, is not less necessary to the growth of 
plants ; it is therefore requisite, that in taking plants 
into our rooms, we should attend to these particulars. 

The internal structure of plants is composed of 
minute and imperceptible pores, which serve the same 
important purpose in the vegetable as veins in the 
animal system ; they convey the circulation of the sap 
in the former, as the veins do that of the blood in the 
latter; but it is by no means settled as yet by physio- 
logists how the food of plants is taken up into the 
system and converted into their constituent parts. 

From the foregoing considerations and facts, it is 
evident, that, as air, heat, and moisture, are each es- 
sential to vegetation, that water should only be given 
in proportion as heat and air are attainable. In the 
summer season green-house plants may be exposed 
to the open air, from the early part of May, until the 
end of September, by being placed on the ledges of 
windows, or on a stand erected for the purpose, or in the 
absence of a nursery bed of flowering plants, they 
may be introduced into the regular flower-beds, to 
supply the place of such plants as may wither and die 
in course of the summer, by being turned out of the 
pots and planted, or plunged in the earth with the 
pots. 

In the heat of the summer season, plants generally 



MANAGEMENT OF GREEXIIOUSE PLANTS. 193 

require Avater every evening, and in the absence of 
dews, the earth about their roots may sometimes need 
a little early in the morning ; but experience shows, 
that the roots of plants more frequently get injured from 
being soddened in water, than from being kept mode- 
rately dry. Having before intimated that exotic plants 
will generally thrive best in a temperature and soil 
similar to that in -which nature first produced them, it 
may be necessary to remind the reader, that we have 
the means of attaining suitable composts from our own 
soils, and from sand, decayed leaves, rotten dung, 
and various kinds of peat, bog, and rock mould ; these 
ingredients being judiciously mixed and prepared, 
may be suited to all the various kinds of plants, and 
should be used as occasion requires. As the roots of 
plants make considerable growth in the course of a 
summer, it will be necessary to examine them by 
turning them out of the pots ; this may be done early 
in September, at which time all matted and decayed 
roots should be pared off, and the plants shifted into 
larger pots, Avliich being filled with suitable compost, 
and watered, will be ready to be removed into the 
house on the approach of cold nights, which is gene- 
rally early in October. 

Green-house plants require an annual pruning, and 
should be occasionally headed down, in order that 
their size and appearance may be improved ; the best 
time for doing this is soon after they have done flow- 
ering, and while they are in a grow ing state. Having 
endeavoured to furnish my readers with the artificial 
means of preserving tender plants in a climate foreign 
to that which nature has provided for them, I shall 
call their attention to another class of plants well cal' 
culated for the windows of a house. 

I allude to the many beautiful varieties of the Chi- 
nese Chrysanthemum ; these are frequently cultivated 



194 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



in pots J and may be taken from the ground and put 
into pots, even when in full flower, witliQut injury, 
and when the bloom is over, returned to the garden . 
In the spring following, they will throw up an abun- 
dance of suckers. 

The following list consists of some of the best varie- 
ties of the Crysanthemum, and are entitled to a place 
in every flower garden. In October and November, 
when the waning year has left our gardens compara- 
tively cheerless, these with their various colours, deck 
them out in gaiety, and prolong the semblance o^ 
summer. They are perfectly hardy, and will brave 
our severest winters. 

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

26 auilled light purple. 

27 Expanded do, do. 

28 auilled yellow. 

29 Double Indian yellow,super6 

30 Double Indian white, superb 

31 Brown purple. 

32 Early Blush. 

33 Golden lotus. 

34 Cluilled purple. 

35 Starry purple, 

36 Park's small yellow, beau- 
tiful 

37 Cluilled salmon, 

38 Semidouble quilled pale 
orange. 

39 Two coloured red, 

40 Curled buff, or salmon, 

41 Large lilac, 

42 Late pale purple. 

43 Two coloured incurved. 

44 Blush ranunculus, 

45 Late quilled purple. 

46 Tasselled lilac. 

47 Tasselled yellow, 

48 Yellow waratah. 

49 Pale lilac. 

50 Large buff, superb. 

51 Barclay's. 

52 Aiton's. 

53 Sabine's. 



1 "White quilled. 

2 Pale buff, or orange. 

3 Changeable, red and orange 
Jlower on the same plant. 

4 Purple. 

5 Lilac quilled. 

6 Rose coloured, or pink. 

7 Lilac and white, changeable ; 
the Jlowers vary to lilac^ to 
white with a purple centre, 
and to pure white. 

8 Dark crimson, or Spanish 
brown. 

9 Straw coloured quilled. 

10 Golden yellow. 

11 Tasselled white. 

12 Superb do. 

13 Semidouble quilled do. 

14 Paper do. 

15 Cluilled flame yellow. 

16 Sulphur do, 

17 Superb clustered do. 

18 Small do. 

19 Single flame yellow. 

20 auilled pink. 

21 Semidouble quilled do, 

22 auilled orange. 

23 Semidouble quilled do. 

24 Early crimson. 

25 Curled lilac. 



CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 195 

Chrysanthemums may be propagated from seed and 
cuttings, and each plant will produce several suckers, 
which may be separated every spring ; as the flowers 
are liable to be injured by the rain in autumn, it is 
advisable to take up a few plants, and place them in a 
light room or green-house, which will preserve them 
for some time. 

Many people keep their late-blooming plants in the 
house through the winter ; this is a bad practice, as 
the heat and want of air will exhaust or destroy the 
plants altogether. If the flowers fade before hard frost 
prevails, it is best either to plunge the pots into the 
ground with the plants, or turn them out of the pots, 
and plant them, with the balls of earth entire, into the 
borders of the flower garden. Early in May, such as 
may be intended for potting the ensuing season, should 
be divided at the roots, if not potted and planted, each 
kind separate. One single stem is sufficient for a mo- 
derate sized pot, if the object be to have bushy plants ; 
but if showy plants are desired, one of each of the 
varied colours may be selected for each pot, which 
should be sufficiently capacious to hold them without 
crowding them, as this will cause the plants to grow 
weak and slender. If this happens early in the sum- 
mer, a stocky growth may be produced by clipping 
the tops, and they will bloom in great perfection at 
the usual season. 

The following articles were first written for the 
American Gardeners' Magazine ; and from their con- 
geniality to the subject matter of this book, the author 
has been induced to lay them before his readers. The 
first article exhibits the order of the flowery tribe, per- 
haps better than it could have been done in any other 
way ; and the latter may be considered worth keeping 
in print, and is respectfully submitted by the author 
as an appendage to the flower garden. 



196 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 

THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY, 



" Descend, sweet April, from yon watery bow, 
And liberal strew the ground with budding flowers, 
With leafless crocus, leaf-veiled violet, 
Auricula, with powdered cup, primrose 
That loves to lurk, below the hawthorn shade.'' 

It is generally admitted that the month of April 
gives the most perfect image of spring ; for its vicissi- 
tudes of warm gleams of sunshine and gentle showers 
have the most powerful effect in hastening the uni- 
versal springing of the vegetable tribes, from whence 
the season derives its appellation. Next comes the 
favourite month of the year in poetical description, 

MAY. 

" For thee, sweet month, the groves green liv'ries wear ; 
If not the first, the fairest in the year ; 
Thou dost afford us many pleasant hours, 
While Nature's ready pencil paints the flowers. 

The pious Hervey, in his meditations on the flower 
garden, has furnished us many sublime ideas respect- 
ing the order, variety, and beauty of the flowery tribe. 
It is in vain to attempt a catalogue of those amiable 
gifts. There is an endless multiplicity in their cha- 
racters, yet an invariable order in their approaches. 
Every month, almost every week, has its pecuhar 
ornaments ; not servilely copying the works of its 
predecessors, but forming, still forming, and still exe- 
cuting, some new design : so lavish is the fancy, yet 
so exact is the process of nature. Were all the flowery 
tribe to exhibit themselves at one particular season, 
there would be at once a promiscuous throng, and at 
once a total privation. 



•the beauties op A.PRIL AND MAY. 197 

We should scarcely have an opportunity of adverting 
to the dainty qualities of half, and must soon lose the 
agreeable company of them all. But now, since every 
«pecies has a separate post to occupy, and a distinct 
interval for appearing, we can take a leisurely and 
minute survey of each succeeding set. We can view 
and review their forms ; enter into a more intimate 
acquaintance Avith their charming accomplishments, 
and receive all those pleasing sensations which they 
are calculated to yield. 

Before the trees have ventured to unfold their leaves, 
and while the icicles are pendant on our houses, the 
snow-drop breaks her way through the frozen soil, fear- 
Jess of danger. Next peeps out the crocus, but cautious- 
ly, and with an air of timidity. She shuns the howling 
blasts, and cleaves closely to her lowly situation. 
Nor is the violet last in the shining embassy, which, 
with all the embellishments that would grace a royal 
garden, condescends to line our borders, and bloom at 
the feet of briars. Freely she distributes the bounty 
of her emissive sweets, while herself retires from sight, 
seeking rather to administer pleasure than to win ad- 
miration. Emblem, expressive emblem, of those 
modest virtues, which delight to bloom in obscurity. 
There are several kinds of violets, but the fragrant, 
both blue and white, are the earliest. Shakspeare 
compares an exquisitely sweet strain of music to the 
delicious scent of this flower : 

" O ! it came o'er my ear like the sweet south, 
That breathes upon a bank of violets, 
Stealing and giving odour.'' 

The pious Hervey, in his admonitions to those who 
indulge in sloth, has thrown out the following sublime 
ideas : " What sweets are those which so agreeably 

18 



198 THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY. 

salute my nostrils ? They are the breath of the flow- 
ers, the incense of the garden. How liberally does 
the jasmine dispense her odoriferous riches ! How 
deliciously has the woodbine embalmed this morning 
walk ! The air is all perfume. And is not this 
another most engaging argument to forsake the bed 
of sloth ? Who would be dissolved in senseless slum- 
bers, while so many breathing sweets invite him to a 
feast of fragrancy — especially considering that the 
advancing day will exhale the volatile dainties ? A 
fugitive treat they are, prepared only for the wakeful 
and industrious- Whereas, when the sluggard lifts 
his heavy eyes, the flowers will droop, their fine 
sweets be dissipated, and instead of this refreshing 
humidity, the air will become a kind of liquid fire. 

With this very motive, heightened by a representa- 
tion of the most charming pieces of morning scenery, 
the parent of mankind awakes his lovely consort. 
There is such a delicacy in the choice, and so much 
life in the description of these, rural images, that I 
cannot excuse myself without repeating the whole 
passage. Whisper it, some friendly genius, in the ear 
of every one, who is now sunk in sleep, and lost to all 
these refined gratifications ! 

" Awake ! the morning shines, and the fresh field 
Calls you : ye lose the prime, to mark how spring 
The tended plants, how blows the citron grove ; 
What drops the myrrh, and what the balmy reed ; 
How Nature paints her colour, how the bee 
Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets." 

How delightful is this fragrance ! It is distributed 
in the nicest proportion ; neither so strong as to op- 
press the organs, nor so faint as to elude them. We 
are soon cloyed at a sumptuous banquet; but this 
pleasure never loses its poignancy, never palls the 



THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 199 

appetite. Here luxury itself is innocent ; or rather 
in this case, indulgence is incapable of excess. This 
balmy entertainment not only regales the sense, but 
cheers the very soul ; and, instead of clogging, elates 
its powers." 

Our subject is so enchanting, that we had inadver- 
tently wandered from the path we first entered. We 
now retrace our steps, and take a glance at surrounding 
objects. The fields look green with the springing 
grass. See the daffodil how it spreads itself to the 
wind ! The leaves of honey-suckles begin to expand, 
and lilacs, or syringas, of various hues, unfold their 
buds. The almond exhibits its rosy clusters, and the 
corchorus its golden balls. Many of the lowlier plants 
exhibit their yellow and purple colours, and the buds 
of lilies, and other perennial plants, prepare to show 
themselves. If we turn our attention to the orchard, 
we behold the apricots, nectarines, and peaches, lead 
the way in blossoming, which are followed by the 
cherry and the plum. These form a most agreeable 
spectacle, as well on account of their beauty as of the 
promise they give of future benefits. It is, however, an 
anxious time for the possessor, as the fairest prospect 
of a plentiful increase is often blighted. Shakspeare 
draws a pathetic comparison from this circumstance, 
to paint the delusive nature of human expectation : 

'■' This is the state of man ; to-day be puts forth 
The tender leaves of hope ; to-morrow blossomSj 
And bears his blushing honours thick upon him ; 
The third day comes a frost, a kiUing frost, 
And nips his root." 

But we now return to the garden. Before we have 
time to explore nature's treasures, many disappear ; 
amongst those we had almost forgotten the humble 
daisy, which shrinks from the intense heat, and the 



200 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 

several varieties of primulas, or early spring flowers^ 
The various grades of polyanthus deserve a close in- 
spection ; these, for a while, exhibit their sparkling 
beauties, but, alack ! soon disappear. Scarcely have 
we sustained this loss, but in comes the auricula, and 
more than retrieves it. Arrayed she comes in a splen- 
did variety of amiable forms, with an eye of crystal, 
and garments of the most glossy satin. A very dis- 
tinguished procession this ! The favourite care of the 
florist, but these also soon disappear. Who could 
forbear grieving at their departure, did not the various 
sorts of bulbous flowers burst ther bands asunder, or 
rather expand, so as to exhibit their fragrance and 
beauty. While we reluctantly dispense with the 
sweet perfumes of the hyacinth and narcissus, we 
behold the tulips begin to raise themselves on their 
fine wands or stately stalks. They flush the parterre 
with one of the gayest dresses that blooming nature 
wears. Here one may behold the innocent wanton- 
ness of beauty. Here she indulges a thousand freaks, 
and sports herself in the most charming diversity of 
colours. In a grove of tulips, or a bed of pinks, one 
perceives a difference in almost every individual. 
Scarcely any two are turned and tinted exactly alike. 
What colours, what colours are here ! these so nobly 
bold, and those so delicately languid. What a glow, 
is enkindled in some ! what a gloss shines upon others. 
With what a masterly skill is every one of the vary- 
ing tints disposed '. Here they seem to be thrown on 
with an easy dash of security and freedom ; there they 
are adjusted by the nicest touches of art and accuracy. 
Those colours which form the ground are always so 
judiciously chosen, as to heighten the lustre of the 
superadded figures ; while the verdure of the impale- 
ment, or the shadings of the foliage, impart new 
liveliness to the whole. Fine, inimitably fine, is thd 



THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAf. 201 

texture of the web on which these shining treasures 
are displayed. What are the labours of the Persian 
looms ; what all the gay attire which the shuttle or 
the needle can furnish, compared with nature's works ? 
One cannot forbear reflecting in this place, on the too 
prevailing humour of being fond and ostentatious of 
dress. What an abject and mistaken ambition is this ! 
How unworthy the dignity of man, and the wisdom 
of rational beings ! Especially since these little pro- 
ductions of the earth have indisputably the pre- 
eminence in such outward embellishments. But we 
had nearly have forgotten the fragrant, the very 
fragrant wall and gilly-flowers ; some of these regale 
us with their perfumes through various vicissitudes 
and alterations of the season, while others make a 
transient visit only. In favoured situations arises the 
anemone, encircled at the bottom with a spreading 
robe, and rounded at the top into a beautiful dome. 
In its loosely-flowing mantle, you may observe a noble 
negligence ; in its gently -bending tufts, the nicest 
symmetry. This may be termed the fine gentleman 
of the garden, because it seems to possess the means 
of uniting simplicity with refinement, of reconciling 
art and ease. The same montli has the merit of pro- 
ducing the ranunculus. All bold and graceful, it 
expands the riches of its foliage, and acquires by 
degrees the loveliest enamel in the world. As persons 
of intrinsic worth disdain the superficial arts of recom- 
mendation practised by fops, so this lordly flower 
scorns to borrow any of its excellencies from powders 
and essences. It needs no such attractions to render 
it the darling of the curious, being sufficiently enga- 
ging from the elegance of its figure, the radiant variety 
of its tinges, and a certain superior dignity of aspect. 
I had intended to confine our meditations to the 
beauties of April and May, but nature seems to im- 

18* 



202 REAUTIES OF APRIL ANB MAY. 

prove in her operations. Her latest strokes are the most 
masterly. To crown^the collection, she introduces the 
carnation, which captivates our eyes with a noble 
spread of graces, and charms another sense with a 
profusion of exquisite odours. This single flower has 
centered in itself the perfection of all the preceding. 
The moment it appears, it so commands our attention, 
that we scarcely regret the absence of the rest. The 
field we have entered is so extensive and so enchant- 
ing, that we cannot extricate ourselves, Avithout taking 
a cursory glance at the airs and habits, tJie attitude 
and lineaments, of each distinct class. See the Paeonia 
of China, splendid and beautifully grand ! View the 
charming rose, delicate and languishingly fair ! and 
while you inhale its balmy sweetness, you will be 
constrained to admire it, notwithstanding its thorny 
appendages. Behold all the pomp and glory of the 
parterre, where nature's paint and perfume do won- 
ders. Some rear their heads as with a majestic 
mien, and overlook, like sovereigns or nobles, the 
whole parterre. Others seem more modest in their 
aims, and advance only to the middle stations ; a 
genius turned for heraldry might term them the gentry 
of the border ; while others, free from all aspiring 
airs, creep unambitiously on the ground, and look 
like the commonalty of the kind. Some are inter- 
sected with elegant stripes, or studded with radiant 
spots. Some affect to be genteelly powdered, or neatly 
fringed ; while others are plain in their aspect, unaf- 
fected in their dress, and content to please with a 
naked simplicity. Some assume the monarch's pur- 
ple ; some look most becoming in the virgin's white ;, 
but black, doleful black, has no admittance into the 
wardrobe of spring. The weeds of mourning would 
be a manifest indecorum, when nature holds an uni- 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEIt, 203 

versal festival. She would now inspire none but 
delightful ideas, and therefore always makes her ap- 
pearance in some amiable suit. Here stands a warrior 
clad with crimson ; there sits a magistrate robed in 
scarlet ; and yonder struts a pretty fellow, that seems 
to have dipped his plumes in the rainbow, and glitters- 
in all the gay colours of that resplendent arch. Some 
rise into a curious cup, or fall into a set of beautiful 
bells. Others spread themselves in a swelling tuft, or 
crowd into a delicious cluster. In some the predomi- 
nant stain softens by the gentlest diminutions, till it 
has even stolen away from itself. The eye is amused 
at the agreeable delusion, and we wonder to find our- 
selves insensibly decoyed into quite a different lustre,. 
In others you will think the fine tinges were emulous 
of pre-eminence. Disdaining to mingle, they confront 
one another with the resolution of rivals, determined 
to dispute the prize of beauty ; while each is improved, 
by the opposition, into the highest vivacity of com- 
plexion. 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 

Man is formed for social enjoyment, and if it be 
allowed that "it is not good for man to be alone," it 
may be justly inferred that it is not good that woman 
should be alone ;. hence a union of interests indicates a^ 
union of persons for their mutual benefit. By this 
union, a sort of seclusion from the rest of our species 
takes place ; and as a garden is a retired apartment, 
appropriated to culture and improvements, the married 
state may not be inaptly compared with it in many 
respects. 

It is good and honourable for the human species, 
prudently and cautiously to approach this delightful 
enclosure. Its entrance in general is extremely gay 



io4 



THE ^fATRIMO^•IAL GAnOEN. 



and glittering, being strewed with flowers of every 
hue and every fragrance, calculated to charm the eye 
and please the taste ; but they are not all so ; and as 
there are many persons who may wish to enter this 
garden at some time or other, who are yet strangers to 
its various productions, their attention should be di- 
rected to the cultivation of those plants which are 
beneficial, and to the avoiding or rooting up of those 
which are injurious. 

And first, let me caution adventurers in this garden 
not to dream of permanent happiness ; if you should 
so dream, experience will soon make you wiser, as 
such happiness never existed but in visionary heads. 
If you are desirous that this garden should yield you 
all the bliss of which it is capable, you must take with 
you that excellent flower called GOOD HUMOUR, 
which, of all the flowers of nature, is the most delicious 
and delicate ; do not drop it or lose it, as many do 
soon after they enter the garden — it is a treasure that 
nothing can supply the loss of. When you get to the 
end of the first walk, which contains about thirty steps, 
commonly called "the Honey Moon Path," you w41I 
find the garden open into a vast variety of views, and 
it is necessary to caution you to avoid many produc- 
tions in them which are noxious, nauseous, and even 
fatal in their nature and tendency, especially to the 
ignorant and unwary. There is a low, small plant, 
which may be seen in almost every path, called IN- 
DIFFERENCE.— This, though not perceived in the 
entrance, you will always know where it grows, by a 
certain coldness in the air which surrounds it. Con- 
trary to the nature of plants in general, this grows by 
cold and dies by warmth ; whenever you perceive this 
change in the air, avoid the place as soon as you can. 
In the same path is often found that baneful flower 
called JEALOUSY, which I advise you never to look 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 205 

at, for it has the strange quality of smiting the eye 
that beholds it, with a pain that is seldom or never got 
rid of. Jealousy is a deadly flower ; it is the aconite 
of the garden, and has marred the happiness of thou- 
sands. 

As you proceed, you will meet with many little 
crooked paths. I advise you, as a friend, never to go 
into them, for although at the entrance of each, it is 
written in large letters, I AM RIGHT, if you do enter, 
and get to the end of them, you will find the true 
name to be PERVERSENESS. These crooked paths 
occasion endless disputes, and as it is difficult to make 
the crooked straight, it is better to avoid them alto- 
gether, lest, as it sometimes happens, a total separation 
be the consequence, and you take different paths the 
rest of your lives. Near this spot, you will meet with 
a rough, sturdy plant, called OBSTINACY, which 
bears a hard, knotty fruit, that never digests, and of 
course must injure the constitution ; it even becomes 
fatal, when taken in large quantities. Turn from it, 
avoid it as you would the cholera. 

Just opposite to this, grows that lovely and lively 
shrub, called COMPLIANCE, which, though not 
always pleasant to the palate, is very salutary, and 
leaves a sweetness in the mouth ; it is a most excel- 
lent shrub, and produces the most delicious fruit. — 
Never be without a very large sprig in your hand ; it 
will often be wanted as you go along, for you cannot 
be happy without it in any part of the garden. 

In one of the principal compartments, stands a very 
important plant, called ECONOMY ; it is of a thriving 
quality; cultivate this fine plant with all your care ; 
it adorns and enriches at the same time. Many over- 
look it, some despise it, and others think that they 
shall never want it; it is generally overlooked in the 
gaiety and levity with which people enter this place^. 



206 THE MATKIMONIAL GARDEN. 

but the want of it is generally paid for with bitter 
repentance. There are two other plants of the same 
species, which are very closely connectedj called IN- 
DUSTRY and FRUGALITY, and I must take leave 
to tell you that, unless both the male and the female 
partake largely of their branches, very little success 
can be expected ; in this they must both unite. Take 
care that you provide yourself and partner with a 
supply of each as soon as possible after you enter the 
garden. 

There are two or three paths which run much into 
one another, and deserve the closest attention of the 
softer sex; I mean REGULARITY, EXACTNESS 
and NEATNESS.*- Do not think, as some do, that 
when you have once got into the garden, you may be 
neglectful of these paths. Remember that your com- 
panion will see your neglect, which will affect his eye, 
and may alienate his heart. Enter on these depart- 
ments, then, as soon as you enter the garden, and when 
you are once fairly in, you are in for life ; the danger 
is, that if you do not get into them at an early period, 
you will not find them afterwards. Near these walks 
is to be found that modest plant, called HUMILITY : 

It is the violet, "doom'd to blush unseen, 
And waste its sweetness on the desert air." 

It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined 
with other virtues, it adds a charm to life, and spreads 
a fragrance around its wearer. Cultivate then, with 
all your care, this sweet little plant, and you will find 
it prevent the growth of all poisonous and noxious 
weeds. 

Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of cul- 
tivation, as connected with propagation, as that 
most probably will be your employment in this garden; 



* In deportment as well as in dress. 



THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 207 

sooner or later. Should you have the rearing of a 
young plant, remember that it is frail in its nature, 
and liable to be destroyed by every blast, and -will 
demand all your care and attention. Should you be 
witness to a blast on its dawning beauties, Oh, how 
your fond heart will bleed with tenderness, affection, 
and sympathy ! The young shoot will naturally twine 
around all the fibres of your frame. Should it live and 
thrive, spare no pains to " train it up in the way it 
should go." Weed it, water it, prune it ; it will need 
all the cultivator's skill. Without this, many weeds 
and baneful plants will grow up with it, and blast 
your fondest hopes. Be ever mindful that this is a 
TRUST for which both parties are accountable. 

Without careful cultivation, what can you expect 
but the most luxuriant growth of unruly appetites, 
which, in time, will break forth in all manner of dis- 
graceful irregularities.' What, but that ANGER, 
like a prickly thorn, will arm the temper with an 
untractable moroseness ? That PEEVISHNESS, like 
a stinging nettle, will render the conversation irksome 
and forbidding ? That AVARICE, like some choking 
weed, will teach the fingers to gripe, and the hands to 
oppress.? That REVENGE, like some poisonous 
plant, replete with baneful juices, will rankle in the 
breast, and meditate mischief to its neighbour? While 
unbridled LUSTS, like swarms of noisome insects, 
taint each rising thought, and render " every imagi- 
nation of the heart only evil continually ?" Such are 
the usual products of unrestrained nature ! Such the 
furniture of the uncultivated mind ! 

By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. 
By suitable discipline clear the soil. By careful in- 
struction implant the seeds of virtue. By skill and 
vigilance prune the unprofitable and over-luxuriant 
branches : — " direct the young idea how to shoot," — 



208 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 

the wayward passions how to move. The mature 
man will then become the chief ornament of the gar- 
den. Around him CHARITY will breathe her sweets, 
and in his branches HOPE expand her blossoms. In 
him the personal virtues will display their graces, and 
the social ones their fruit — the sentiments become 
generous, the carriage endearing, the life useful, and 
the end happy and peaceful. 



^i^ In anticipation that inquirers after practical 
knowledge of gardening, may regret my having de- 
viated from the subject matter of the book, in con- 
nectinjr the two last articles, I would remind such, 
that a work devoted wholly to practical subjects, is 
too dull for the generality of readers ; my object has^ 
therefore, been to amuse, as well as to instruct. 

T. BRIDGEMAN. 

New-York, March 8, 1835. 



209 

OBSERVATIONS 

ON THE 

FRUIT GARDEIV AN^D ORCHARD 



In my preliminary observations on the subjects I 
have hitherto treated on, I am aware that it may ap- 
pear to some, that I have not sufficiently urged the 
importance of a judicious selection of situation, expo- 
sure, aspect, soil, &c. My object in not insisting on 
a strict attention to these important points was, be- 
cause I know that, though good land is abundant in 
this extensive country, it is impossible for every one 
to choose for himself; and rather than any disadvan- 
tages in these respects, should discourage proprietors 
of land from attempting to raise garden products, so 
necessary to the comfort and convenience of every 
family, I have endeavoured to show them how to use 
to advantage whatever land may surround their places 
of abode. As, however, some have a choice, it may 
be necessary to offer some further remarks on the 
subject. 

The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should 
be one that has the advantage of a free circulation of 
air, and is well exposed to the south, also to incline a 
little to the east, and south-w^est. When the situation 
is low and close, the trees are very liable to become 
mossy, which always injures them, by closing up the 
pores of the wood ; they are also more liable to be 
affected by blight. Although having an Orchard 
closely pent up by trees, &c. is injurious, nevertheless 
a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from the 

19 



210 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

fruit trees as that the latter will not be shaded by 
theui, is of very great service in protecting the trees 
in spring from severe cold winds. A good strong 
loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to the depth 
of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable for an 
Orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub- 
stratum, so that the ground is well drained, for if the 
top soil be ever so good and the bottom be wet, it is a 
very rare case to find that the trees will prosper for 
many years, before they begin to be diseased and goto 
decay. As it is so indispensably necessary to the 
success of fruit trees that the bottom be dry, if it be 
not naturally so, it must be made so, by judicious 
draining. 

When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by 
draining, it must be done for some time before the 
trees are planted. In performing this work, the ground 
must be trenched, and when the trench is open, stone> 
or brick-bats^ &c. must be laid over the bottom to the 
thickness of six inches, a little coal ashes, or small 
I'-ravel, must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, 
&c.. and then the surface be gently rolled. Also 
drains may be made in different directions, so that any 
excess of moisture can be taken entirely array from 
the ground. 

It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure 
of soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as 
is experienced by ridging and trenching. Where the 
soil is stiff and stubborn, small gravel, sand, coal 
ashes, lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and 
other light composts, are very appropriate substances 
to be applied, and will, if carefully managed and well 
worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper 
condition for most purposes. 

Previous to laying out an Orchard or Fruit Garden, 
the soil should be manured and pulverised to a great 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 211 

^lepth. The soil should be sweet, that the nutriment 
which the roots receive may be wholesome ; free, that 
they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it ; and 
rich, that there may be no defect in food. 

If Orchards be made from meadows or pasture 
lands, the ground should be improved as much as 
possible by manuring, trenching, ploughing, &c. If 
this is not done to its full extent, it should be done in 
strips of at least six feet in width along where the 
fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time of plant- 
ing let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is suf- 
ficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and 
of sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and v/ell 
pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are 
planted. In planting fruit trees, they should be placed 
two or three inches deeper than they were in the 
nursery bed, and the earth intended for filling in, 
should be enriched and well pulverized by mixing in 
some good old manure, and if any leaves, decayed 
brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other refuse of a 
farm be attainable, let such be used around the trees 
in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould 
be admitted among the fine roots. The trees in plant- 
ing should be kept at ease, and several times shaken, 
so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer parti- 
cles of earth to be connected with the small fibres of 
the roots ; and when completely levelled, let the 
ground be well trodden down and moderately watered , 
which should be repeated occasionally after spring 
planting, if the weather should prove dry. 

As some difference of opinion exists among prac- 
tical men as to the best time for planting fruit trees, 
the following extract from Mr. Prince's Treatise on 
Horticulture is submitted ; 

'^ Seasons for Transplanting. — Spring is the 



212 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 

season when we find the most pleasure in making our 
rural improvements, and from this circumstance, pro- 
bably it has become the general season for planting 
trees, but experience has proved the fall planting to 
be the most successful, especially in those parts of the 
United States which are subject to droughts, as the 
trees planted in autumn suffer little or none from 
drought, when those set out in spring often perish in 
consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to 
those fruits that have been originally brought from 
warmer climates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Necta- 
rine, and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Ar- 
menia, &c., it is necessary for us to consult the opera- 
tions of climate also ; and, from a consideration of 
those attendant circumstances, I have come to the 
following conclusions. In localities south of New 
York, the Fall season is preferable only for the Apple, 
Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of 
northern latitude ; whereas the Spring is to be pre- 
ferred for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, 
which for the reasons before stated, might, during 
severe winters, suffer from the intensity of the frosts. 
Still I do not mean to assert that trees of those kinds 
are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very 
many seasons they are not in the least affected ; still 
they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or may 
not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent 
judgment, make their plantations in the fall, which 
only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent 
minds, a diversity of opinion exists. 

'^ Trees, &c. on their arrival at the 
PLACE OP DESTINATION. — As soon as the trccs ar- 
rive at the place where they are to be planted, let a 
trench be dug in cultivated ground, the bundle un- 
packed, and the roots well wet, and immediately 
covered with earth in the trench, observing to make 



FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. 213 

the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to 
leave vacancies for the admission of air to the dry 
roots, it having been found by experience that the 
thriftiness of trees, the first year after transplanting, 
depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept 
moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are 
taken up until they are replanted ; their increase, 
therefore, must depend principally on the subsequent 
management on their arrival at the place of destina- 
tion : for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees 
are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young 
fibres of the roots must perish, and the trees, if they 
live at all, cannot thrive the first season, as they can 
receive little or no nourishment until these fibres are 
replaced. 

To CAUSE THE Trees TO THRIVE. — Tne gTound 
where they are planted must be kept cultivated ; 
young trees will not thrive if the grass be permitted to 
form a sod around them, and if it should be necessary 
to plant them in grass grounds, care must be taken to 
keep the earth mellow and free from grass for three 
or four feet distant around them, and every autumn 
some well-rotted manure should be dug in and around 
each tree, and every spring the bodies of the Apple, 
Pear, Plum, and Cherry Trees, and others that it is par- 
ticularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be 
brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with 
water ; this treatment will give a thriftiness to the 
trees surpassing the expectation of any one who has 
not witnessed its effect. Should the first season, after 
transplanting prove dry, regular watering will be ne- 
cessary, as from neglect of proper attention in this 
1 aspect, many lose a large portion of their trees during 
a drought.'* 

Such kinds of fruit trees treated upon in this Avork 
as may require any other than good ordinarv soil, may 

i9* 



214 OBSERVA.TIONS, &C. 

be supplied, by judicious management ; and if a proper 
attention be paid to the situation and aspect in 
arranging a Fruit Garden, each kind may be so accom- 
modated as to promote its fruits' ripening earUer or 
later than the ordinary season, by varying the aspect • 
but Grape Vines, or other tender fruits, should not be 
planted where the sun's influence does not fully 
operate. 

Where there is a great extent of close fencing or 
wall, it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind 
against different aspects. Such as one or two May 
Duke Cherries against a south aspect, which will ripen 
earliest ; next, against either an east or west, and 
lastly, against a north aspect ; by observing this 
method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Gooseberries, 
Currants, &c. the fruit will ripen in succession, and 
thus a supply of them is considerably lengthened. 
The early-blooming fruit trees will sometimes need 
protection in warm aspects ; for which arrangements 
may be made by keeping awning, matting, netting, 
&c. at hand, to shelter them with in threatening 
weather, or to screen them from the intense heat of 
the sun after a frosty night; this, with a sprinkling of 
water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any 
serious consequences from slight frost. 

Tliose who may have various soils, should suit them 
to the different kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears re- 
quire a strong loam, but rather the lightest for the 
Pear. Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Nec- 
tarines, a good deal lighter than for the Apple and 
Pear ; such fruits as may require peat, bog, or any 
other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as 
we proceed. 



215 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON INSECTS, AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE 
LIABLE. 

Much may be written relative to the various diseases 
to which fruit trees are liable, and also to the preven- 
tion and destruction of tlie various kinds of reptiles 
and insects, which very frequently deprive us of the 
first fruits of our garden. The preventive opera- 
tions are those of the best culture. Fall ploughing, 
by exposing worms, grubs, the larvae of bugs, beetles, 
&c., to the intense frost of our winters, and the 
moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c. are beneficial. 
Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete 
destruction effected, by the use of soap- suds, lie, tar, 
turpentine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, 
walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid 
substances; but perhaps the most effectual way of 
keeping some of the most pernicious kinds of insects 
under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the 
trees, before the insects have an opportunity of 
escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter. 

Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavour- 
able situations, they often become diseased ; when 
this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and 
keeping the trees clean, by a free use of soap and 
water. If that will not do, they may be headed down, 
or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and 
disease are generally produced by the bad quaUties of 
earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads 
of insects. These incidents generally show them- 
selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and 
shoots of any colour but the natural green ; curled and 
ragged leaves ; branches in a decaying state ; shoots 
groAving from the roots, instead of from the stem or 
trunk i the stem diseased in its bark, and gum oozing 



216 

from various parts thereof, are all proofs of the exist- 
ence of disease. The Peach tree is subject to a 
disease called the yellows ; and the discoloured leaves 
and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms 
Avhich so frequently attack the root ; where these are 
found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel ; but 
if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should 
be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected. 
The Pear, and also the Quince, and sometimes other 
trees, are subject to the fire light ; this malady may 
be completely checked on its first appearance, by 
cutting off and immediately burning the injured branch- 
es. Generally speaking, careful pruning, cleaning 
the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or 
tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting 
good earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy 
most diseases in fruit trees ; removing them from a bad 
to a better soil, will, of course, effect this, where it 
proceeds from a poorness of land ; for the old adage, 
" remove the cause, and the effect Avill cease," will 
be here exemplified. To cure the oozing of the gum 
nothing is more necessary than to cut away the dis- 
eased parts ot the bark ; and by thus assisting nature 
in casting out the excrementitious, or noxious juices, 
a complete cure may be effected. When a tree is 
affected by mildew, let it be immediately sprinkled 
with soap-suds, and then be dusted over with sulphur 
and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig 
around the tree, and examine the soil, and sub-soil ; 
if it be wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and 
replaced with good healthy soil, and the ground drain- 
ed ; if, on the contrary, the ground be dry, give it a 
plentiful Avatering ; the same remedy may serve as a 
preventive of the extension of blight, if taken in time. 
When any canker is observed, the part affected must, 
at the winter pruning, be cut clean out, and the part 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 217 

thus dressed be pared, so that no water be able to lodge 
in the wound ; when this is done, let a quantity of soot 
be mixed up with the water, after which, let a little 
train oil be well worked amongst it, but so that the 
mixture finally remain stiff; this may be plastered 
over all the wounds that have been pruned. The 
application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the 
wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both 
the soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are 
cankery from having a bad sub-soil, it is in vain to 
apply any remedy till the ground is properly drained, 
and some fresh soil be mixed with the natural soil, 
also the tree replanted. When trees are known to be 
so situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of 
insects or disease, they should be attended to at the 
time of winter pruning, in order to destroy the insects 
in their larvae state. See page 164. 

The following compositions have been known to 
protect fruit trees from the attacks of numerous in- 
sects, by being used as a wash to the trees immediately 
after the winter pruning. The constitution of some 
trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients 
than others ; but the proportions, as hereafter de- 
scribed, will not be injurious to any, but will be 
effectual in the destruction of the larvae of insects. 

For Apricot, Nectariive, and Peach Trees. 
— To eight gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, 
two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of 
black pepper. 

For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. 
— To four gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, 
two pounds of common sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, 
and one ounce of black pepper. 

For Figs and Vines. — To four gallons of water 
add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, 
and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. 



218 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

All these ingredients must be boiled together for 
twenty minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm 
state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable 
brush. 

The most destructive enemy to our fruits, is the 
Curculio ; this insect passes the winter in the earth in 
a chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested 
by the gardener, will be ready to commence his at- 
tacks at about the time the blossoms appear on our 
fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, 
Pear, and all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their 
growth ; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots are 
produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop 
off prematurely, with the little enemy within ; if this 
fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, 
geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their 
ravages in succeeding years, but if suffered to remain 
on the ground, they will supply food to myriads of 
their destructive race, which may not be so easily 
extirpated. The canker-worm is another enemy to 
our fruits, for the destruction of which, many experi- 
ments have been tried. Some apply bandages round 
the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or ointment, 
to annoy or entrap the females, in their ascent to the 
tree; but as these tormentors are frequently on the 
move from November to the end of June, this must be 
a very tedious, as well as uncertain process. As this 
insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk 
of the tree, and not more than three or four inches 
from the surface of the earth, good culture, and a mode- 
rate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingre- 
dient, is the most likely way to destroy them. The 
Bark Louse is another pernicious insect ; they resemble 
blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to 
be imperceptible ; they often prove fatal to the Apple 



AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 219 

tree, by preventing the circulation of tiie sap. These 
insects may be conquered by washing the trees with 
soap-suds, tobacco water, lime water, or brine, or a 
wash may be made of soapy water and lime, thickened 
to the consistence of cream or paint, with sifted sand 
or clay, which may be applied with a brush to the 
trunk and limbs of the trees ; this should be done at 
the latter end of May, or early in June, and the cracks 
in the bark should be completely covered. 

The Apple tree Borer is said to deposit its eggs be- 
neath the surface of the soil, and the v/orras are often 
to be found in the spring of the year, by digging round 
the tree, and clearing away the earth to the roots, and 
may be taken out with a knife or gouge and destroyed. 
After the worms are removed, the wounds should be 
covered over with grafting clay and wood ashes 
mixed, and the earth then returned to the roots of the 
tree. Some use bricklayers' mortar early in the spring, 
around the base of the tree, so as to cover the part 
where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. 

Although our limits will not allow of a further de- 
scription of the various sorts of insects which injure 
our gardens, and frequently destroy the fruits of our 
labour, I cannot forbear directing the attention of our 
citizens to the importance of saving all kinds of ashes 
If all agriculturists and horticulturists were to ofiFer an 
inducement to the inhabitants of large cities, to save 
their ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not 
only with a valuable manure, but an antidote for many 
kinds of insects ; and our citizens would be at a less 
risk from fire, by having a brick vault on the premises 
for safe keeping them. In England, a private dwell- 
ing is not considered complete without an ash-vault, 
and a good farmer would dispense with his barn, 
rather than be destitute of an ash-house. I have 
known farmers to supply the cottagers with as much 



220 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

peat as they could burn, on condition of their saving 
them the ashes ; and there are some that will keep 
men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for 
the same purpose ; and any thing that has passed the 
fire is so valuable, that a chimney sweep will frequent- 
ly clean chimneys for the sake of the soot, Avhich is 
conveyed miles into the country, and sold at a price 
sufficient to reward the collectors, besides paying all 
expenses ; even the house-keepers' ashes in cities is 
a marketable article at all times, at from ten to twenty- 
five cents per bushel, when kept dry and clean, and a 
guinea a load was formerly the common price in the 
villages in Berkshire and Hampshire. 

While on this subject, I would urge the importance 
of a spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to 
prepare turfs from tanners' bark, peat- earth, coal 
dust, mixed with clay, cow dung, &c., and get them 
dried in the summer season, these, by being preserved 
through the winter, may be burned around fruit 
Orchards, while the trees are in blossom, and if the 
fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept up, 
by heaping on damp litter every night ; this will prove 
pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, 
and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve 
as a means for the destruction of others. An Orchard 
thus managed every year, will need no other manure. 
The smoking should be effected first on one side of the 
plantation, and afterwards on the other, or heaps may 
be prepared in diflferent parts of the Orchard, and fire 
applied according as the wind may serve, to carry the 
smoke where it is most necessary. I know a gardener 
in the neighbourhood of New-York, who saved his 
Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after its 
having been used as a covering for his Spinach ; and I 
have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent 
remedy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially 



aHd diseases of fruit trees. 221 

if some coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. 
The damper the materials are, in moderation, the more 
smoke they will create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sul- 
phur, or other pernicious combustible be sprinkled 
amongst them, it will be beneficial. This subject 
appears to me of the utmost importance to the farmer, 
as well as to the community at large. I, therefore, 
cannot forbear offering some further observations. 

It must be acknowledged, that although this country 
contains an abundance of wood, coal, and peat, as well 
as almost every other description of fuel, that the poor 
of our large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold ; 
and if all the tales of woe could be sounded in the 
ears of a sympathizing community during our severe 
winter, I am persuaded it would arouse them to the 
consideration of a remedy. It is an acknowledged 
fact, that the poor of Europe are cheaper and better 
supplied with fuel than those of this country. This 
arises, in a great measure, from the circumstance of 
ashes being held in high estimation by agriculturists ; 
they are consequently a saleable article in their large 
towns and cities, at a price equal in some instances 
to half the cost of a winter's fuel. 

Now I would ask, how it is that ashes are not as 
valuable to the farmers here, as they are in Europe ? 
The extreme heat of the summers must certainly en- 
gender insects in equal if not greater proportions ; and 
as respects manure, it must be scarcer in some parts of 
this extensive country, than it is in the densely popu- 
lated countries of Europe . Perhaps some may answer, 
that ashes are already used by our cultivators to a 
considerable extent ; but I would remind such, that 
from the circumstance of their being mixed up with 
other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, 
(as in^our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load 
may not be worth more than a bushel would be, if 

20 



222 OBSEEVATIONS ON INSECTS, 

kept dry and clean. The farmers of Europe consider 
peat ashes of more value than any others, and I am 
persuaded that could they be fairly tested by some of 
our best cultivators, great good may result to the 
community. If the farmers of England can aflford to 
keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for the 
sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor 
of our community may be placed in easier circumstan- 
ces as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres 
of land are to be found in the States of New- York and 
New- Jersey, and within a few miles of this city, which 
abound with peat earth ; and the owners of such have 
already began to explore their treasures of this de- 
scription. Good peat is now to be had in the city at 
the low price of eight cents per bushel, or three dollars 
per chaldron. It burns well in all sorts of stoves and 
grates, whether made for wood or coal, and also on 
the hearth ; and if the ashes are not used to any better 
purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the 
cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this sub- 
ject is worthy of serious consideration, and if the 
editors of the different papers would arouse the public 
attention, so as to 'enlist some of our most active 
citizens to a consideration of the subject, incalculable 
good may result to the community at large. 

If the honorable the Corporation of our city, and 
others who distribute fuel amongst the poor, gratis, 
would give them peat instead of wood, it would be 
much cheaper, and would answer every purpose to 
the consumers. In such cases twelve bushels may be 
given in the first winter month to each of the apph- 
cants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction that 
they save their ashes in a dry state, in order to their 
being taken in exchange for a future supply of peat. 
It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve 



AND DISEASES OF FRHIT TREES. 223 

bushels of peat would make, and if a strict attention 
be paid to the conditions of exchange, it would soon 
be discovered which of the applicants was most enti- 
tled to the distributor's bounty. The same sheds 
which it would be necessary to provide for housing 
the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If 
such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each 
a moderate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat 
may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in 
exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could 
be all used for the same purpose as they become empty. 
These ashes, when fairly tested, may become a mer- 
chantable article, as in Europe ; and it is very proba- 
ble that farmers may be induced to take them in 
exchange for future supplies of peat ; they could, 
however, be conveyed into the country at a trifling 
expense, and would no doubt meet a ready sale. 



OBSERVATIONS 

ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. 

In training and pruning fruit trees, particular atten- 
tion is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency 
of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living 
bark and wood, in an uninterrupted suf '^ ~^ision from 
the root to the extremities of the brancK, pruning, 
therefore, is useful to remedy any defect, as well as to 
take off superfluous wood, and prevent unnecessary 
waste of the sap. Pruning may be performed at 
different seasons of the year, according to the kinds of 
fruit, which will be shown under each head, as we 
proceed. 

In the Spring, or Summer pruning, be careful not 
to destroy the germs of future fruits ; but merely re- 



224 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING, AND 

inove^all unserviceable sprays. In the winter seasoD., 
make your selection from the wood shoots of the 
preceding year ; keep those which appear the most 
healthy, and cut away those which seem redundant. 
Beginners had better prefer the Spring, as the bud& 
will then be a guide for them to go by ; but this busi- 
ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as 
some kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from 
being pruned untimely. When the sap rises in Grape 
Vines, &c. before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues^ 
and it is not easily stopped. When this happens, sear 
the^place, and cover it with melted wax, or with warm 
pitch spread upon a piece of bladder ; or peel off the 
outside bark to some distance from the place ; and then 
press into the pores of the wood a composition of 
pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the consistence of 
putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as in 
spring, though not so copiously at the former season. 
The best preventive is timely or early pruning in 
the Spring; and not pruning until the wood is 
thoroughly ripe in autumn. With respect to the 
manner in which vines, and some particular kinds of 
trees should be trained, opinions are at variance. 
Some advise training the shoots in a straight and 
direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and 
others in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained 
on low walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag 
manner of training may be adopted. Horizontal train- 
ing is that in which from a main stem, lateral branches 
are led out horizontally on each side. 

It has been remarked, that in order to be a good 
trainer of vines, a man must have some forethought, 
and be capable of making his selection, as the plants 
shoot. He must predetermine how he shall prune, 
and where he shall cut at the end of the season ; and 
so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has 



PRUNING FRUIT TEEES AND VINES. 225 

this more eflfectually in his power, with respect to the 
vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of its rapid 
growth and docility. 

In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the 
bud. Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, 
which is apt to weaken the shoot of next season, and 
sometimes to prevent its vegetating at all, the buds 
being very susceptible of injury, on account of the soft 
and spongy nature of the wood. In the cutting out of 
old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direction, and 
to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to prevent 
its being injured by moisture. The pruning being 
finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the 
old wood be carefully peeled oflf, observing not to 
injure the sound bark, and clear the trellis of branches 
of leaves, tendrils, &c. Let the shoots and branches 
be afterwards regularly laid in, at the distance above 
specified, particularly the young shoots that are ex- 
pected to bear next season. As to the others, it is not 
so material how near the j^oung shoots be placed to 
the old, or even though they sometimes cross them. 
Choose strands of fresh matting, or pack-thread, to tie 
with ; and observe to leave sufficient room for the 
swelling of the shoots and branches next season. 

By attending to the proper pruning of fruit trees in 
the winter, every advantage is promoted, and by a 
judicious management in other respects, wood may 
not only be obtained but preserved in every part of the 
tree, and so that it will bear down to the very bole, 
which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the 
gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and will be 
equally conducive to the beauty and welfare of the 
tree. While trees are young, it is necessary to lay a 
good foundation for a supply of bearing wood in future 
years, for when this is neglected, and they become 
naked, it is some time before a supply can be recovered. 

20* 



226 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND 

In shortening a branch, always take care to cut in a 
direction a little sloping, and so that the slope may be 
parallel in a contrary way to the nearest bud left. It 
is requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut 
may not be ragged, but clean, and in the operation, 
be careful that the knife does not slip, so that any 
other branch be cut or damaged. The general pru- 
ning of fruit trees is indifferently performed by many 
persons at any time from autumn to spring, and it may 
be done so without any great injury to them, provided 
that mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the 
wood is well ripened. Although it may be advan- 
tageous to prune trees early in the winter, when the 
wood is well ripened, yet when the wood is green and 
the buds have not arrived at a mature state, it is re- 
quisite in such instances to defer pruning until spring, 
taking care, however, that it is performed before the 
moving of the sap. The necessity of this arises from 
the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened in 
autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will 
continue so until the frost, &c. causes it to become 
stagnant, and if the shoots were shortened whilst the 
sap was in motion, the buds would be considerably 
injured, and the tree weakened ; such unripe shoots 
are also more liable to sujffer by the severity of winter, 
and when the pruning is deferred until spring, all such 
parts as may have been affected by the Aveather, can 
be removed to the extent to which the damage has 
been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood 
in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is 
when it is done during winter, and the more so, ac- 
cording to the severity of it; because, whenever a cut 
is made on such green wood, the frost generally affects 
it, as the sap is not dense, nor the wood so firm, as to 
be able to resist its intenseness. Whatever method is. 
adopted in training trees, care should be taken to keep 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES 227 

the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; this may 
easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan, or 
horizontal method. 

For espalier trees the horizontal method has many 
advantages over any other ; the small compass in 
which the trees are obHged to be kept, requires such a 
direction for the branches, in order to make them fruc- 
tiferous. And were very high trellises formed, so as 
to admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, 
such would be very objectionable, by reason of the 
shade they would cause, and the trees would also be 
deprived of the benefit of a warmer temperature, which 
those less elevated receive, by the effects of which 
fruitfulness is considerably promoted. 

As some young gardeners may not know what is 
meant by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, 
that espaliers are hedges of fruit trees, which are 
trained up regularly to a frame or trellis of wood work ; 
they produce large fruit plentifully, without taking up 
much room, and maybe planted in the Kitchen Garden 
without much inconvenience to its other products. 
For espalier fruit trees in the open ground, a trellis is 
absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of 
common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, 
according to taste or fancy. 

The implements employed in pruning, and the man- 
ner of using them, are matters of moment. If the ope- 
ration is commenced when the tree is young, and 
judiciously followed up, a good knife, a small saw, and 
a chisel fixed on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and 
extremities of the branches, are all the tools that are 
required. A large saw will be occasionally wanted ; 
but an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as 
they fracture on the wood, bruise and tear the bark, 
and disfigure the tree. 



228 OBSERVATIONS ON 

BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. 

Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are ope- 
rations that equally depend for their success upon the 
property that buds possess of shooting roots down- 
wards and stems upwards ; but in these practices, the 
roots strike between the bark and wood of the stocky 
instead of into the earth, and form new layers of wood, 
instead of subterranean fibres. The success of such 
practices, however, depends upon other causes than 
those which influence the growth of cuttings. It is 
necessary that an adhesion should take place between 
the scion and the stock, so that when the descending 
fibres of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon 
the wood of the stock, they may not be liable to sub- 
sequent separation. No one can have studied the 
economy of the vegetable kingdom, without having 
remarked that there is a strong tendency to cohesion 
in bodies or parts that are placed in contact with each 
other, 

BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 

To bud trees, let the following method be adopted ; 
procure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp 
ivory handle ; the use of the blade is to prepare the 
buds, and the handle is used to raise the bark of the 
stocks, so that the buds can be easily inserted. Have 
some good strong bass in readiness, and then take 
some good thrifty sprigs from healthy trees of the sorts 
you intend to propagate. When all is ready, make a 
cut in the bark of the stock transversely, and from the 
middle of this cut make another downwards, at least 
two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in 
the form of a f ; then take one of your sprigs, and 
with expedition proceed to take off a bud ; this is 
effected by entering the knife a little more than half 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 229 

an inch below the bud or eye ; force your knife into 
the wood, drawing it under the bud, and cut the 
piece off across the shoot; then immediately let that 
part of the wood which Avas cut off with the bud, be 
separated from it, which may be readily done with the 
knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and 
and wood at one end. and holding the bark in one hand, 
pull off the woody part with the other, which will 
readily come from the bark, if the tree from which it 
was taken be in vigorous condition. Examine the bark, 
so as to be satisfied that the bud remains perfect ; if 
there is no hole in it, let it be immediately inserted 
into the stock, observing for the reception of it, to 
raise with the handle of your knife the bark of the 
stock downwards on each side from the cross cut, and 
thrust the bud in between the bark and the wood, ap- 
plying it as close as possible. As soon as the bud is 
put in its place, tie it round securely with the bass, 
beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding up- 
wards, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to 
miss the eye of the bud, just that it may be seen 
through the bandage of the bass. About three weeks 
or a month after the stocks have been budded, they 
should be examined, w4ien such as have united will 
appear fresh and full, and those that have not taken 
will appear decayed ; in the former case the bandage 
may be left off, and in the latter case, the stock may 
be budded in another place, provided the first operation 
was done in the month of July or early in August, as 
these are the two most preferable months for budding 
fruit trees in general. Budding is, however, often 
attended with success, if done early in September. 

ScALLOPE Budding is performed by cutting from 
a small stock, a thin narrow scallope of wood, about 
an inch in length, and taking from a twig a thin scal- 
lope of Avood of the same length ; this is instantly 



230 OBSERVATIONS ON 

applied, and fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as 
nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with 
wet bass matting. This mode may be practised in the 
spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the 
month of July. The French practise this mode on 
Roses. 

GRAFTING. 

This business is generally performed in March and 
April. There are various modes of grafting, but the 
following are those most generally practised : 

Cleft Grafting. — This mode of grafting is ge- 
nerally practised on stocks of from one to two inches 
in diameter ; and may be performed in the following 
manner : — Let the head of the stock be carefully sawed 
off at a part free from knots, and the top pared smooth ; 
then with a thin knife split down the stock through 
the centre, to the depth of about two inches, and insert 
a wedge to keep it open for the reception of the scion. 
The scion must be prepared in the form of a wedge, 
with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, and inserted 
carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion, and of 
the stock, may both exactly meet. Large stocks 
require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes 
four are inserted. When done, tie them firmly to- 
gether with bass, and then cover the grafted part with 
well prepared clay, in an oval form, and close it se- 
curely. 

Side Grafting. — This mode is sometimes prac- 
tised on those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. 
There are two ways in which it may be performed. 
1st. The scion may be prepared in the same manner 
as for splice grafting, and the bark and wood on the 
side of the stock cut sloping ; the scion being then 
adjusted as carefully as possible, must be bound on 
and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being cut 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 231 

sloping-, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the 
tree, on the top of a perpendicular slit ; the bark of the 
tree above the cross-cut, must be pared down slanting 
to the wood, and the bark raised, as in budding ; the 
scion being then inserted, it must be bound fast, and 
covered with clay. 

Splice or Whip Grafting. — ^This mode is often 
practised on small stocks, and it succeeds best, when 
the scion and stock are of an equal size. The scion, 
which should consist of young wood of the former 
year's growth, may be cut to the length of about four 
inches. This and the stock are each to be cut sloping, 
for an inch or more, and tongued. Tongueing consists 
in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope of the stock 
downwards, and a corresponding slit in the scion 
upwards ; both are now to be joined, so that one of 
the sides, if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then 
to be securely bound with bass matting, and covered 
with grafting clay, or composition. As soon as the 
scion and stock are completely united, the bass string 
may be removed. 

Saddlk Grafting.— The celebrated Mr. Knight, 
practises this mode of grafting on very small stocks. 
The upper part of the stock is prepared in the form of 
a wedge, by two sloping cuts, one on each side. The 
scion is prepared by splitting it upwards, and paring 
out the middle part on each side to a point. When 
the stock and scion are of equal size, the adjustment 
may be made perfect ; but if unequal, one side must 
exactly meet. The whole is secured by a string of 
bass matting, and covered with composition or clay ; 
but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect 
union has taken place. 

Root Grafting. — This operation is often per- 
formed on grape vines, just below the level of the 
surface, by the usual mode of cleft grafting. It is also 



232 



ON BUDDIiJG AND GRAFTING. 



performed on portions or pieces of root, where suitable 
stocks are scarce. 

Graftipcg by Approach. — The trees, or shrubs, 
to be grafted, must be growing very near to those 
which are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches 
of each tree, which is thus to be united, must be pared 
with a long sloping cut of several inches, nearly to its 
centre ; and the parts of each tree thus prepared, are 
to be brought together, and finally secured by a band- 
age of matting, so that the bark shall meet as nearly 
as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay 
or composition ; and when a complete union has taken 
place, the trees or shrubs may be separated with a 
sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. - 

Grafting Clay may be made in the following 
manner : Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free 
from litter, cow manure, and good stiflf clay ; add to 
this, a portion of hair, and work it together in the 
same manner as masons mix their mortar. It should 
be well beaten, and incorporated several days before it 
is required to be used. 

To MAKE Grafting Composition. — Take equal 
parts of rosin and bees' wax, and a little tallow; melt 
these together and mix them, then pour the composi- 
tion into cold water, and as it hardens, take it out 
and work it up with the hands in the manner of 
shoemaker's wax. It may be spread on brown paper, 
which cut into strips of suitable size ; is quickly ap- 
plied, and in cool weather it may be warmed by the 
breath, so as to become adhesive. 



In preparing the following articles, the object has 
been to furnish such information as was thought best 
calculated to entertain, as well as to instruct the 
reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned 



APPtE. 233 

from those inexhaustible treasures to Horticulturists, 
Loudon's Encyclopaedia of Plants, and that of Garden- 
ing ; but on account of the brevity necessarily observed 
throughout this work, it has been found impracticable 
to give many entire extracts ; suffice it say, that the 
historical facts are generally collected from these 
sources. 



APPLE. 
PoMMiER. Pyrus mains. 

The Apple being so closely connected with our 
wants and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in 
the catalogue of our fruits. The Apple orchard is in 
truth the vineyard of our country ; and the delicious 
beverage that can be obtained from some of the 
varieties of this excellent fruit being calculated to 
cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the healthy, 
entitles it to high consideration. It is one of our oldest 
species of fruit, and has become completely naturalized 
to our soil ; none can be brought to so high a degree of 
perfection with so little trouble ; and of no other are 
there so many excellent varieties in general cultiva- 
tion, calculated for almost every soil, situation and 
climate, which our country afltbrds. The Apple tree 
is supposed by some to attain a great age : Haller 
mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that 
attained a thousand years, and were highly prolific ; 
but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordi- 
nary duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab 
stock, and planted in a strong tenaceous soil. Speechly 
mentions a tree in an orchard at Burton-joice, near 
Nottingham, of about sixty years old, with branches 
extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, 

21 



234 APPLE. 

which, in 1792, produced upwards of two hundred 
gallons of apples. 

The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in 
Pliny's time. There are upwards of fifteen hundred 
now cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural 
Society of London, under name ; the catalogue of the 
Linnsean Botanic Garden at Flushing, contains over 
four hundred ; and one of our enterprising horticul- 
turists, Mr. Wm. ^oxe, of Burlington, New -Jersey, 
enumerated one hundred and thirty-three kinds, 
cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They 
are usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider 
fruits ; the first high-flavoured, the second such as fall 
or become mellow in baking or boiling, and the third 
austere, and generally fruit of small size. Besides this 
division, Apples are classed as pippins or seedlings, 
pearmains or somewhat pear- shaped fruits, rennets or 
queen-specked fruits, calviles or white skinned fruits, 
russets or brown fruits, codlings or falling fruits, and 
some are denominated burknots. 

The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many 
sorts by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is 
by grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years 
growth, and for dwarfing on stocks of the Quince or 
Paradise Apple. All the principal varieties are culti- 
vated as standards, in the orchard, and should be 
planted from thirty to forty feet from each other, or 
from any other spreading trees, in order that the sun 
and air may have its due influence in maturing the 
fruit. 

Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the 
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf 
standards. An Apple orchard may be planted at any 
time after the trees are two years old from the graft ; 
and as trees from young stocks will not come into full 
bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear 
removing with care at any time within that period. 



APRICOT. 235 

Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior 
varieties, by being headed down to standard height 1 
in very old subjects, most commonly, the branches 
only are cut within a foot or two of the trunk, and 
then grafted in the crown or cleft manner. In all 
the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of bear- 
ing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short 
robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, 
which spring from the younger branches of two or 
more years' growth, appearing at first at the extremity^ 
and extending gradually to the side : the same bearing 
branches and fruit spurs continue many years fruitful. 

Pruning. — As from the mode of bearing, Apple 
trees do not admit of shortening in the general bearers, 
it should only be practised in extraordinary cases. If 
trees have not the most desirable form when three or 
four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to 
promote regular pruning branches. In annual pru- 
ning, the main branches should not be cut unless in 
cases of decay ; but all superfluous cross branches and 
dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- 
cated. Espaliers require a Summer and Winter 
pruning. 



APRICOT. 
Abricotler. Prunus Armeniaca* 

The fruit of the Apricot is next in esteem to the 
Peach, and as it ripens three or four weeks earlier, 
should be more generally cultivated. The flowers 
appear in April, on the shoots of the preceding year, 
and on spurs of two or more years growth, and the 
fruit ripens in July and August. The London Horti- 
cultural Society's catalogue describes fifty-four sorts, 



236 APRICOT. 

and Messrs. Prince have forty-four in their catalogue; 
besides these, is the Peach Apricot, a large fruit, sup- 
posed to be a hybrid between a Peach and an Apricot. 

Our enterprising fellow-citizen, Mr. Wm. Shaw, 
has succeeded for many years in maturing large quan- 
tities of this excellent fruit on standards ; \ but they 
ripen best when trained against close fences. In 
England some of the varieties are cultivated as 
standards and espaliers ; they seldom bear much fruit 
under ten or twelve years; but then the fruit is 
abundant and of the finest flavour. They are com- 
monly cultivated as wall trees, in an East or West 
aspect ; for if they are planted full south, the great 
heat causes them to be mealy before they are eatable. 
New varieties are procured from seed, as in the peach, 
and approved sorts are perpetuated by budding on 
Plum stocks, &c. 

The varieties of the Apricot, in general, bear chiefly 
upon the young shoots of last year, and casually upon 
small spurs rising on the two or three years old fruit 
branches. The Moor Park bears chiefly on the last 
year's shoots, and on close spurs formed on the two 
year old wood. The bearing shoots emit the blossom 
buds immediately from the eyes along the sides, and 
the buds have a round and swelling appearance. 

Apricot tress may be planted at any time after the 
head is formed ; some head them down in the nursery 
bed, and remove them to their destined places when 
five or six years old. 

Standards will require only occasional pruning to 
regulate such branches as may be too numerous, too 
extended or cross formed, and to remove any casually 
unfruitful parts and dead wood ; but the regular 
branches, forming the head of the tree, should not be 
shortened unlesss necessary. 

The general culture of the wall Apricots compre- 



APRIGOT. 237 

hends a Summer and Winter course of regulation, by 
pruning and training. The fan method is generally 
adopted, but some prefer training horizontally. With 
young trees some contrive to fill the wall by heading 
down twice a year. 

The Winter, or early Spring management, compre- 
hends a general regulation both of the last year's 
shoots and the older branches. A general supply of 
the most regular situated young shoots must be every 
where retained, for successional bearers the ensuing 
year. Cut out such branches as are not furnished with 
competent supplies of young wood, or with fruit spurs, 
to make room for training a general supply of the 
most promising branches retained. Generally observe 
in this pruning to retain one leading shoot at the end 
of each branch ; either a naturally placed terminal, or 
one formed by cutting (Avhere a vacancy is to be fur- 
nished) into a proper leader. Let the shoots retained 
for bearers be moderately shortened *. reduce strong 
shoots in the least proportioned — cutting off one-fourth 
or less of their length ; from weak shoots take away a 
third, and sometimes a half. This shortening will 
conduce to the production of a competency of lateral 
shoots the ensuing Summer, from the lower and mid- 
dle placed eyes ; whereas without it, the new shoots 
would proceed mostly from the top, and leave the 
under part of the principal branches naked, and the 
lower and middle parts of the tree unfurnished with 
proper supplies of bearing wood. Never prune below 
all the blossom buds, except to provide wood, in which 
case cut nearer to the origin of the branch. As, in 
these trees, small fruit spurs, an inch or two long, often 
appear on some of the two or three years' branches 
furnished with blossom buds, these spurs should gene- 
rally be retained for bearing. As each tree is pruned, 
nail it, laying in the branches and shoots from three 

21* 



238 ALMOND. 

to six inches distance, straight and close to the fence 
or wall. 

The Summer pruning is principally to regulate the 
young shoots of the same year. In the first place, 
take oiF close all the irregular foremost shoots, taking 
care to retain a competent supply of choice side shoots, 
with a good leader to each parent branch. Continue 
these mostly at full length all the Summer, regularly 
trained in, to procure a sufficiency to choose from in 
the general Winter pruning, for new bearers the next 
year. 

If the summer regulation commences early, while 
the shoots are quite young, and, as it were, herba- 
ceous, those improper to retain may be detached with 
the finger and thumb ; but when of firmer growth, 
they must be removed with the knife. If any very 
strong shoots rise in any part where the w^ood is de- 
ficient, they may be topped in June, which will cause 
them to produce several laterals the same year, eligible 
for training in, to supply the vacancy. 

Sometimes the fruit is too much numerous, if not 
attacked by insects, often growing in clusters ; in 
which case thin them while in a young green state, 
leaving the most prominent fruit singly, at three or 
four inches distance, or from about two to six on the 
respective shoots, according to their strength. The 
Apricots so thinned off, and the first principal green 
fruit, are very fine for tarts. 



ALMOND. 
Amandier. Amygdalus. 

Although Almonds are not much cultivated in this 
part of our country, they are entitled to notice. The 



ALMOND. 239 

species are fruit trees, or ornamental trees and shrubs, 
both much esteemed for the gay colour and early ap- 
pearance of their flowers ; these vary in their colour 
from the fine blush of the Apple blossom to a snowy 
whiteness. The chief obvious distinction is in the 
fruit, which is flatter, with a coriaceous covering, in- 
stead of the rich pulp of the Peach and Nectarine, 
opening spontaneously when the kernel is ripe. It is 
a native of Barbary, China, and most eastern countries. 
There are twenty-one sorts described in the catalogue 
of the Linnaen Botanic Garden at Flushing ; some of 
which are represented as new kinds from France and 
Italy ', where they are cultivated extensively for their 
fruit. 

In France, they have above a dozen species or va- 
rieties, besides a hybrid, called the Almond Peach. 
The common and bitter Almond are only to be distin- 
guished by the taste of the kernels of their fruit, which 
is the only part used. The tender-shelled is in the 
greatest esteem, and next, the sweet and Jordan. The 
bitter cuticle, or skin of Almonds, is taken off" by im- 
mersion in boiling water. 

The sweet Almond and other varieties are used as a 
dessert in a green or imperfectly ripe, and also in a ripe 
or dried state. They are much used in cookery, con- 
fectionary, perfumery, and medicine. 

The Almond is propagated by seed, for varieties, or 
for stocks ; and by budding on its own, or on Plum 
stocks, for continuing varieties. The Almond tree 
bears chiefly on the young wood of the previous year, 
and in part upon small spurs or minor branches ; it is 
therefore pruned like the Apricot and Peach, and its 
culture in other respects is the same. 



240 

CHERRY. 

Cerisier, &c. Prunus cerastis. 

The Cherry of the cultivated varieties is said to have 
been first introduced into Italy in the year 73, from a 
town in Pontus,'^ in Asia, called Cerasus, whence its 
specific name ; and it was introduced into Britain one 
hundred and twenty years afterwards. 

The Romans had eight varieties of Cherries, red, 
black, tender-fleshed, hard-fleshed, small bitter fla- 
voured, and dwarf sort. There are now upwards of 
two hundred in cultivation. The French divide their 
Cherries into griottes, or tender-fleshed ; bigareaux, 
or heart-fleshed ; and guignes, or small fruits. The 
fruit of many varieties is somewhat heart-shaped, 
whence they are called ox heart, white heart, black 
heart, &c. ; why some sorts are called dukes, is not so 
obvious. The morello cherry is very different from 
the other varieties, bearing almost exclusively from 
the preceding years' wood, and the pulp of the fruit 
having the consistence and flavour of the fungi called 
morel ; whence the name. The Chinese Cherry is 
valuable on account of its bearing an excellent fruit, 
and producing it abundantly in forcing-houses. 

Cherries are grafted, or budded on seedlings from 
Cherry stones, and from seedlings of the red and black 
mazzard. For dwarfing, they are worked on the 
morello, or perfumed Cherry ; the latter is preferred in 
Holland. 

Cherry trees, in general, produce the fruit upon 
small spurs or studs, from half an inch to two inches 
in length, which proceed from the sides and ends of 
the two year, three year, and older branches, and as 
new spurs continue shooting from the extreme parts, 
it is a maxim in pruning both standards and espaliers. 



CHERRY. 241 

not to shorten the bearing branches when there is 
room for their regular extension. 

The morello is in some degree an exception, as it 
bears principally on the shoots of the preceding year, 
the fruit proceeding immediately from the eyes of 
shoots ; and bears but casually, and in a small degree, 
on close spurs formed on the two year old wood, and 
scarcely ever on wood of the third year, therefore, in 
pruning, leave a supply of young shoots on all the 
branches from the origin to the extremity of the tree, 
for next year's bearers. 

All kinds of Cherry trees, except the morello, are 
apt to grow very tall ; to remedy this, and to enable 
them to form handsome heads, the leading shoot should 
be cut ofif, when about three years' growth from the 
bud; after which give only occasional prunin^^, to 
reform or remove any casual irregularity from cross- 
placed or very crowded branches, and take away all 
cankery and decayed wood. 

Dwarf Cherry trees may be introduced into the 
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, &c. When 
morellosare planted in an orchard^ they may be placed 
from fifteen to twenty feet apart ; trees of the duke 
kind may be planted from twenty-five to thirty feet 
apart ; and the heart-shaped, in general, will require 
to be from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from 
any other spreading trees. 

Cherry trees may be removed the first year after the 
bud is established ; but they will bear removing at 
any time before they come into bearing, which is 
about the fifth year. 

" The gum which exudes from Cherry trees is equal 
to gum arabic; and Hasselquist relates, that more 
than one hundred men, during a siege, were kept 
alive for nearly two months, without any other suste- 



242 CHESTNUT. 

nance than a little of this gum taken sometimes into 
the mouth, and suffered gradually to dissolve." The 
wood is hard and tough, and used by the turner and 
cabinet-maker. 



CHESTNUT. 

Chataigner. Castanea. 

The Chestnut is well known as a large tree, spread- 
ing its branches finely on every side where it has room, 
but, planted closely, will shoot up straight to a great 
height. It is supposed to have been originally from 
Sardis. It is so common as to be considered a native 
of France and Italy, and some consider it as naturalized 
in England ; it is also indigenous in America. The 
London catalogue contains the names of thirty-two 
sorts under cultivation. The Chestnut is like the 
Walnut, both a timber and fruit tree ; some of the 
oldest trees in the world are of this species. The 
American Chestnut differs so little from the European, 
that no specific distinction can be drawn. It is one of 
the largest trees of the forest, the wood being ex- 
tremely durable, and in high esteem for posts and 
rails to construct fences ; and the nuts are very deli- 
cious. The Castanea pumila, or Chinquapin nut, is a 
small tree, or rather shrub, growing to the height of 
thirty feet in the Southern States, but seldom exceed- 
ing ten in cold latitudes ; the fruit is very sweet and 
agreeable to eat. 

There is a variety with striped leaves, which is very 
ornamental. The most esteemed of the French kinds 
are called marron. Some excellent fruit-bearing va- 
rieties are cultivated in England, France, Italy and 
Spain, as also in other parts of Europe ; these are in- 
creased by grafting or budding in the usual methods, 



CRANBERRT. 243 

but the plants for coppice wood, or timber, are best 
raised from nuts. Some varieties ripen their fruit e 
few days earlier than others, but none of these have 
been fixed on, or perpetuated by nurserymen, so as to 
be rendered available by purchasers. The fruit is a 
desirable nut for autumn and winter, and is eaten 
roasted, with salt, and sometimes raw ; and in some 
countries it is not only boiled and roasted, but ground 
into meal ; and puddings, cakes, and bread, are made 
from it. 



CRANBERRY. 

Canneberge. Oxycocus. 

This genus of plants is well distinguished from the 
Vaccinium, or Whortleberry, by the narrow re volute 
segments of corolla ; and are pretty little trailing ever- 
green plants, to which a peat soil, and rather a moist 
situation are absolutely necessary. They are very 
little changed by culture. 

The Oxycocus macrocarpus is a red acid fruit, highly 
valued as a sweetmeat, or for tarts. It is well known 
that this excellent fruit grows in many parts of our 
country spontaneously ; and that the mere gathering 
it, is all that bountiful nature requires at our hands ; 
but it is well worth cultivating where there are none. 
This fruit will keep a whole year, if properly preserved 
in close covered stone jars, and is considered, by many, 
as superior to the best currant jelly, and may be kept 
for many months in a raw state without injury. 

The Oxycocus palustris bears edible berries, which 
are gathered wild both in England and Scotland, and 
made into tarts. Lightfoot says ''twenty or thirty 
pounds worth are sold each market day, for five or six 



244 CRANBERRY. 

weeks together in the town of Langtown, on the bor- 
ders of Cumberland." 

Nicol says the American species is more easily cul- 
tivated than the English, but is inferior to it in flavour. 
There is reason to believe that the quality of the fruit 
of each of these species is subject to variations, which 
have not yet been practically distinguished. Their 
cultivation is noAV so well understood, that they may 
both be considered with propriety as inmates of the 
fruit garden. 

It is customary in England to prepare beds on the 
edges of ponds, which are banked up so as to admit of 
the wet getting underneath them ; bog or peat earth 
is considered essential for the roots to run in , but it 
has been discovered that they can be cultivated in 
damp situations of a garden, with a top dressing of 
peat or bog earth, and if they are once suited as to 
soil, the plants will multiply so as to cover the bed in 
the course of a year or two, by means of their long 
runners, which take root at different points. From a 
very small space a very large quantity of Cranberries 
may be gathered ; and they prove a remarkably re- 
gular crop, scarcely affected by the state of the weather, 
and not subject to the attacks of insects. Sir Joseph 
Banks gives an account in (Hort. Trans. I, 71,) of his 
success in cultivating this fruit. '' In one year, viz. 
1813, from 326 square feet, or a bed about eighteen 
feet square, three and a half Winchester bushels of 
berries were produced, which, at five bottles to the 
gallon, gives one hundred and forty bottles, each suf- 
ficient for one cranberry pie, from two and a half 
square feet." 



245 
CURRANT. 

Groseiller a grappes. Ribes, 

This is a genus of well known shrubs, much culti- 
vated for their fruit. It is a native of the northern 
parts of Europe, and found in hedges and woods in 
England; and there are some species indigenous in 
America. The fruit, being of an agreeable sub-acid 
taste, is generally relished, both as a dessert, and in 
pies and tarts ; it is also much used in making wine 
and is grown to a considerable extent for that purpose 
in Essex, Kent, and about Pershore, in Worcester- 
shire, England. There are ten species cultivated in 
the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, at 
Chiswick, comprising twelve varieties of red, ten of 
white, five kinds of black, together with champagne, 
mountain, rock, upright, Pennsylvanian, &c. Any 
number of varieties of the red and white may be pro- 
cured from sowing the seeds, but they are generally 
propagated by cuttings of the last year's wood, which 
should be of sufficient length to form handsome plants, 
with a clear stem, ten inches high. They will grow 
in almost any soil, but prosper best in one loamy and 
rich. The best flavoured fruit is produced from plants 
in an open free situation, but they will grow under the 
shade of walls or trees, and either as low bushes, or 
trained as espaliers. They bear chiefly on spurs, and 
on young wood, of from one to three years' growth, 
and, therefore, in pruning, most of the young wood 
should be cut to within two or three buds of that where 
it originated. After the plants are furnished with full 
heads, they produce many superfluous and irregular 
shoots every summer, crowding the general bearers, 
so as to require regulating and curtailing, both in the 
young growth of the year and old wood. The prin- 

22 



246 CURRANT. 

cipal part of the work may be done in winter, or early 
in the spring ; but a preparatory part should be per- 
formed in summer, to eradicate suckers, and thin the 
superfluous shoots of the year, where they are so 
crowded as to exclude the sun and air from the fruit. 
In training espaliers and for standards, two branches 
are laid in a horizontal direction along the bottom of 
the trellis, perhaps half a foot from the surface of the 
earth, and the growth from these of all upright shoots, 
which will admit of being arranged at the distance of 
five or six inches of each other, is encouraged. Fan 
standards are sometimes trained with the branches 
radiating from the crown of the stem. 

The black Currant, or Ribes nigrum, is common in 
moist woods in Russia and Siberia ; its culture is simi- 
lar to that of the red, but as it is less apt to bear on 
spurs than on young wood, the shoots should not be so 
much shortened in this as in the other. 

Currant bushes will require to be planted at different 
distances, according to the situation and mode of train- 
ing, &c. When planted in beds, borders, or squares, 
they should be six feet apart, but if trained as espa- 
liers, they will require to be eight feet apart. 

Many people dislike the flavour of black Currants, 
they are, therefore, not much used in the kitchen or 
dessert, and seldom in wine making. They make a 
jelly or jam, in estimation as a gargle for inflammatory 
sore throats. '' In Russia and Siberia, wine is made 
of the berries alone, or fermented with honey, and 
with or without spirits. In Siberia they make a drink 
of the leaves; these tincture common spirits so as to 
resemble brandy, and a few of them dried and mixed 
with black tea, answer all the purposes of the green 
material." — (Loudon.) 

All kinds of Currants may be forced by placing them 



FIG. 247 

in any forcing department in January or February ; 
they will produce ripe fruit in April and May. 



FIG. 
FiGUiER. Ficus carica. 

There are many species of the Fig, which are all 
natives of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and 
in the South of Europe, they are always grown as 
standards; and the fruit, green and dried, forms an 
important part of the food of the inhabitants. The 
London Horticultural catalogue contains the names of 
seventy-five sorts ; and Messrs. Princo, of Flushing, 
have upwards of forty in their collection, some of 
which are select sorts from France and Italy. It is 
cultivated in England as a fruit tree, and, in warm 
situations, will ripen its fruit in the open air. In 
Sussex, on the sea-coast, it ripens its fruit on stand- 
ards. Some of the best in England, are at Arundel 
Castle ; and there is a Fig orchard of one hundred 
trees at Tarring, near Worthing. Those at Arundel 
are planted six or eight feet apart, and from a single 
stem allowed to continue bmnching conical heads, 
pruning chiefly irregular and redundant growths, and 
cutting out decayed or injured wood. 

The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings, 
layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most ge- 
nerally approved method is by layers or cuttings, 
which come into bearing the second, and sometimes 
the first year. No tree is more robust or more prolific, 
even plants in pots or tubs, kept in a temperature adap- 
ted for the Orange tree, will fruit freely, and ripen two 
crops a year, and by being taken good care of through 
the winter, will go on growing and ripening fruit 
without intermission. 



248 FILBERT AND HAZLENUT: 

When tlie Fig is planted in a garden, a good loamy 
soil should be provided ; and it may be trained to close 
fences, or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the ap- 
proach of winter they must be protected ; those trained 
to close fences may be secured through the winter, by 
a covering of matting ; and such as may be in open 
situations should be liberated from the trellis, and laid 
down close to the ground, and covered three or four 
inches Avith earth ; or trenches may be formed of that 
depth, sufficient to contain the branches, which should 
Le fastened down with hooked pegs, without cramping 
thejr. ; such of the strong central branches as will not 
lend, may be enveloped in litter. They should be 
pruned before they are laid down in November, and 
on being raised again in April, they may be trained 
as before. Figs may be cultivated in private gardens 
as easilv as the vine. 



FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. 

NOISETIER AVELINIER. Corylus. 

The Filbert, in many varieties, and also the com- 
mon Hazlenut, grow spontaneously in the w^oods of 
Britain, and some few varieties are indigenous in this 
country. The kinds of Filberts generally cultivated, 
are tbe wiiite, red, cob, clustered, and frizzled ; of each 
of which there are many varieties. As this shrub is 
so easily cultivated, it is a matter of astonishment that 
the nuts from this genus of plants are so scarce in our 
markets. In diffierent parts of England there are Fil- 
bert orchards. In the Filbert grounds about Maid- 
stone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate 
Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the 
Filberts; wiien these come into a bearing state, the 



GOOSEBERRY. 249 

Hops are taken up and transplanted elsewhere, and 
the fruit trees only suffered to remain. The spare 
ground is then planted with Gooseberries^ Currants, 
&c. The red Filbert is allowed to have a finer flavour 
than the white. The cob-nut is large, with a thick 
shell, but the kernel is sweet, and of considerable size. 
The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin shell. 
The crossford is very sweet, kernels well, and the 
tree is a great bearer. 

All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf 
standards ; or they will bear very well if planted in 
clumps; but as they produce an abundance of suckers, 
these should be parted off frequently, and planted in a 
nursery bed for stocks ; as the bearing plants v,i\\ 
cease to produce fruit in any quantity, if the suckers 
are allowed to form a thick bush. They may be propa- 
gated by seed, by suckers, by layers, or by grafting in 
the spring upon seedling or sucker stocks. 

The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the 
upper young branches, and from small shoots which 
proceed from the bases of side branches cut off the 
preceding year. The leading shoot is every year to 
be shortened, and every shoot that is left to produce 
fruit should be clipped ; which prevents the tree from 
being exhausted in making wood at the end of the 
branch. — Such branches as may have borne fruit, 
must be cut out every year, in order to promote the 
growth of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches. 



GOOSEBERRY. 
Groseiller. Ribes grossularia, uva crispa^ etc. 

The Gooseberry is a native of several parts of 
Europe, and is indigenous in America, as far north as 

22* 



250 GOOSEBERRY. 

68. It is cultivated in greater perfection in England 
than in any other part of the world. In Spain and 
Italy, this fruit is scarcely known. In France it is 
neglected. In Lancashire, England, and some parts 
of the adjoining counties, almost every cottager culti- 
vates the Gooseberry, with a view to prizes given at 
v/hatare called Gooseberry Prize Meetings ; of these, 
there is annually published an account, with the 
names and weight of the successful sorts, in what is 
called the Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes 
vary from ten shillings to five and ten pounds sterling. 
There are meetings held in the spring to " make up," 
as the term is, the sorts, the persons, and the condi- 
tions of exhibition j and in August to weigh and taste 
the fruit, and determine the prizes. 

In Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Gar- 
den, 722 varieties are described ; from which the 
following are selected, as in most repute for size, 
flavour, and other good qualities : 

REDS. 

British Crown. — This variety is noted as being 
a fine flavoured fruit, especially for tarts. 33 prizes 
had been awarded for it in 1829 ; the largest berry 
weighing 18 pennyweights and 10 grains. 

OiiAaiPAGNE. — The fruit of this variety is held in 
great esteem for its delicious flavour ; the berry is of 
medium size, somewhat oblong and hairy. 

Capper's Top Sawyer. — This is a late fruit, of 
oblong shape, and hairy near the base. 171 prizes 
were obtained for this, in 1828 and 9; the heaviest 
berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. 

Crown Bob, Melling's. — This variety won 85 
prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 21 
dwts. 12 grains. It is a late fruit, of oblong shape 
bright red colour, and hairy. 



GOOSEBERRY. 2&1 

Huntsman.— This variety, which originated with 
Mr. Bratherton, took 216 prizes in 1828 and 9 ; the 
heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 

Lancashire Lad, Hartshorn's. — 156 prizes 
were awarded for this variety in two years; the 
heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 11 grains. 

Marquis of Stafford, Knight's.— This much 
esteemed late variety, is hairy, of medium size, bright 
red colour, and delicious flavour. 

Prince Regent, Boardman's. — This variety 
won 141 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry 
weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains. 

Roaring Lion, Farmer's.— In 1828, 349 prizes 
were awarded for this variety ; and in 1829 it won 
453 prizes ; the largest berry weighing 29 dwts. ; since 
which time, berries have been known to weigh over 
one ounce and a half each. 

Sir John Cotgrave, Bratherton's. — This 
variety took 343 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest 
berry weighing 25 dwts. 2 grains. 

YELLOWS. 

Bunker's Hill, Capper's.— 210 prizes were 
awarded for this variety in two years ; the heaviest 
berry weighing 20 dwts. 2 grains. 

Britannia. — This variety is noted for its earliness 
and delicious flavour. The fruit is of medium size, 
weighing about 18 dwts. 

Cottage Girl, Heaps's.— This variety won 133 
prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 19 
dwts. 14 grains. 

Gunner, Hardcastle's.— 192 prizes were given 
for this variety in 1828 ; and in 1829, 181 prizes were 
awarded ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 5 
grains ; fruit rather late. 



252 GOOSEBERRY. 

RocKWOOD, Prophet's. — The fruit of this va- 
riety is very early; it is of a roundish oblong shape, 
and slightly hairy. It won 303 prizes in two years ; 
the largest berry weighing 21 dwts, 3 grains. 

Sovereign, Bratherton's. — 202 prizes were ob- 
tained for this variety in two seasons ; the heaviest 
berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. 

Viper, Gordon's. — This is an early smooth fruit, 
and won 87 prizes in two years; the largest berry 
weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains. 

GREENS. 

Angler, Collier's. — 365 prizes were awarded 
for this variety in two seasons; the heaviest berry 
weighing 20 dwts. 1 grain. 

Early Green, Hairy. — This variety is described 
in the Pomological Magazine as a very early fruit ; 
it is round, hairy, of deep green colour, and excellent 
flavour, but not la^rge. 

Favourite, Bates's. — 235 prizes were given for 
this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 
18 dwts. 20 grains. 

Greenwood, Berry's. — This variety obtained 
204 prizes in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 
17 dwts. 4 grains. It is a deliciously flavoured fruit. 

Independent, Bigg's, — 121 prizes were given for 
this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 

16 dwts. 4 grains. It is an early rich fruit. 
Ocean, Wainman's. — This variety won 278 prizes 

in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 
8 grains. The fruit is oblonjj and smooth. 

Troubler, Moore's. — 160 prizes were taken for 
this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 

17 dwts. 13 grains. 



GOOSEBERRY. 253 

WHITES. 

Bonny Lass, Capper's. — This variety won 167 
prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 
21 dwts. 10 grains. 

Cheshire Lass, Saunders's. — This is one of the 
earUest varieties, and makes excellent tarts. The 
fruit is large, oblong, downy, and fine flavoured. 

Governess, Bratheuton's. — 124 prizes were 
awarded for this variety in two years ; the largest 
berry Aveighing 24 dwts. 

Lady Delamebe, Wylds's. — This variety took 
253 prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weigh- 
ing 22 dwts. 6 grains. 

Nailer, Blomiley's. — 134 prizes were given for 
this variety in two seasons ; the largest berry weigh- 
ing 18 dwts. 12 grains. 

Queen Caroline. — This variety won 142 prizes 
in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 
1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit. 

Wellington's Glory. — 173 prizes were obtained 
in two seasons for this variety ; the largest berry 
weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains. 

White Eagle. — This variety gained 476 prizes 
in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 23 
dwts, 12 grains. 

White Lion, Chelworth's.— 102 prizes were 
given for this variety in two years ; the largest berry 
weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. The fruit is late, slightly 
hairy, and excellent for tarts. 

Whitesmith, Woodward's. — This is a smalb 
early berry, weighing about 14 dwts The skin is 
downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any gooseberry 
of its colour. 

The Gooseberry may be propagated by all the modes 
applicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is 



254 GOOSEBERRY. 

usually adopted for continuing varieties, and that by 
seeds for procuring them. The cuttings should be 
taken from promising shoots just before the leaves 
begin to fall in the autumn ; the greatest part of the 
buds ^should be taken off, leaving only two or three 
buds on the top. Cut them at such a length as the 
strength and ripeness of the wood will bear ; and plant 
them in good pulverized soil. On the approach of 
winter, lay some moss or litter around them ; and, by 
being well cultivated, they will be fit to transplant 
when they are a year old. When bushes are pro- 
cured from the public nurseries, let the general supply 
be in such kinds as will ripen in succession. They 
may be planted in the kitchen garden, in single rows, 
along the sides of the walks or paths, or in compart- 
ments by themselves, in rows from six to eight feet 
apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the 
rows ; or in small gardens, they may be trained to a 
single tall stem, and tied to a stake : thiS; though six 
or eight feet high, occasions scarcely any shade, and 
it does not occupy much room, nor exclude air, while, 
at the same time, the stem becomes close hung with 
berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in that state. 
Persons of taste may train them on arched trellises, 
which, if judiciously managed, the ground around 
them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit may be 
kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily 
gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with 
mats, &c. Those who may have a choice of soil and 
site, should fix on a good, rich, loamy earth, and plant 
some of the choice kinds in a northern and eastern 
aspect, near the fence, to come late in succession. 

The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the 
shoots of the preceding year, and on shoots two or 
three years old, but also on spurs or snags arising from 



GOOSEBERRY. 255 

the older branches along the sides ; but the former 
afford the largest fruit. The shoots retained for bear- 
ers should therefore be left at full length, or nearly so; 
the first pruning should be done before the buds swell, 
so as not to endanger their being rubbed off in the 
operation. Cut out all superfluous cross shoots, and 
prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some well 
placed lateral or eye ; retain a sufficiency of the young 
well situated laterals and terminals, to form succes- 
sional bearers. In cutting out superfluous and de- 
cayed wood, be careful to retain a leading shoot at the 
end of a principal branch. The superfluous young 
laterals on the good main branches, instead of being 
taken off clean, may be cut into little stubs of one or 
two eyes, which will send out fruit buds and spurs. 
Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on 
right principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly, full of 
young wood in summer, from which the fruit is always 
small, and does not ripen freely with full flavour ; on 
which account it is an important point in pruning, to 
keep the middle of the head open and clear, and to let 
the occasional shortening of the shoots be sparing and 
moderate. Between the bearing branches keep a re- 
gulated distance of at least six inches at the extre- 
mities, which will render them fertile bearers of good 
fruit. 

The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire, are 
particular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water 
occasionally with liquor which drains from dunghills ; 
and there are some, who, not content with watering at 
the root and over the top, place a small saucer of water 
under each Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are 
left on a bush ; this is technically called suckling. — 
There are others that ring some of the branches ; this 
is done by cutting out small circles of bark round them, 



256 GRAPE. 

and by pinching off a great part of the young wood, 
the strength may be thrown to the fruit. Unripe 
Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against 
winter : some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, 
stand them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to 
heat them gradually through without cracking them ; 
the berries will keep green a whole year, by being 
closely corked and sealed, as soon as cold. 

The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, 
placed in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. " Hay 
plants in pots in November, removes to the peach house 
in January, and has ripe fruit in the end of April, 
which he sends to table growing on the plants." — 
(Hort, Trans. 4, 415.) 



GRAPE. 
Vi(i?fE. Viiis, vinifera et vidfina. 

The Grape Vine is described by Loudon as a trailing 
deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted irregular stem, 
and long flexible branches, decumbent, like those of 
the bramble, or supporting themselves when near 
other trees, by means of tendrils, like the pea. The 
leaves are large, lobed, entire, or serrated and downy, 
or smooth, green in summer, but when mature, those 
of varieties in which the predominating colour is red, 
constantly change to, or are tinged with some shade of 
that colour; and those of white, green, or yellow 
grapes, as constantly change to a yellow, and are 
never in the least tinged either Avith purple, red, or 
scarlet. The breadth of the leaves varies from five to 
seven or ten inches, and the length of the foot stalks 
from four to eight inches. The flowers are produced 
on the shoots of the same year, which, shoots, generally 



ORAPE^ 257 

proceed from those of the year preceding : they are in 
the form of a raceme, of a greenish white colour, and 
fragrant odour, appearing in the open air in June ; and 
the fruit, which is of the berry kind, attains such ma- 
turity as the season and situation admit, by the middle 
-or end of September. The berry, or grape, is generally 
globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or finger- 
shaped ; the colours green, red, yellow, amber, and 
black, or a variegation of two or more of these colours. 
The skin is smooth, the'pulp and juice of a dulcet, 
poignant, elevated, generous flavour. Every berry 
ought to enclose five small heart, or pear-shaped 
stones ; though, as some generally fail, they have 
seldom more than three, and some varieties, as they 
attain a certain age, as the Ascalon, or sultana raisin, 
none. The weight of a beriy depends not only on its 
size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture of the 
flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy 
sorts, as the sweet water or muscadine ; and what are 
considered as large berried of these varieties, will weigh 
from five to seven penny-weights, and measure from 
one to two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good sized 
bunch of the same sorts may weigh from two to six 
pounds ; but bunches have been grown of the Syrian 
grape, in Syria, weighing forty pounds, and in Eng- 
land weighing from ten to nineteen pounds, A single 
Vine in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf standard in 
the manner practised in the vineyards in the north of 
France, ordinarily produces from three to nine bunch- 
es : but by superior management in gardens in Eng- 
land, the number of bunches is prodigiously increased, 
and one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the 
vinery of the royal gardens at Hampton Court, has 
produced two thousand two hundred bunches, avera- 
ging one pound each, or in all nearly a ton. That at 

23 



258 GRAPE. 

Valentine, in Essex, has produced two thousand 
bunches of nearly the same average weight. 

The age to which the Vine will attain in warm 
climates is so great as not to be known. It is sup- 
posed to be equal, or even to surpass that of the Oak. 
Pliny speaks of a Vine which had existed six hundred 
years ; and Bose says, there are Vines in Burgundy 
upwards of four hundred years of age. 

In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a 
flourishing state for upwards of three centuries, and 
Miller tells us, that a vineyard a hundred years old is 
reckoned young. The extent of the branches of the 
Vine, in certain situations and circumstances, is com- 
mensurate with its produce and age. In the edges of 
Italy, and woods of America, they are found overtop- 
ping the highest Elm and Poplar trees ; and in Eng- 
land one plant trained against a row of houses in 
Northallerton (lately dead) covered a space, in 1585, 
of one hundred and thirty -seven square yards ; it was 
then above one hundred years old. That at Hampton 
Court, nearly of the same age, occupies above one 
hundred and sixteen square yards ; and that at Valen- 
tine, in Essex, above one hundred and forty-seven 
square yards. The size to which the trunk, or stem, 
sometimes attains in foreign countries, is so great, as 
to have afforded planks fifteen inches broad, furniture, 
and statues ; and the Northallerton Vine, above-men- 
tioned, in 1785, measured four feet in circumference 
near the ground, and one branch of the Hampton 
Court Vine measures one hundred and fourteen feet in 
length. Vine timber is of great durability. 

The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is 
grown for the wine press, are as numerous as the 
vineyards ; for as these for the most part diflfer in soil, 
aspect, elevation, or otherwise, and as the Vine is 



GRAPE. 259 

greatly the child of local circumstances, its habits soon 
become adapted to those in which it is placed. When 
it is considered that a vineyard once planted will last 
two or three centuries, it Avill readily be conceived 
that the nature of a variety may be totally changed 
during only a part of that time. The varieties mostly 
in esteem for wine making, are small berries, and 
bunches with an austere taste. The Burgundy, as 
modified by different soils and situations, may be con- 
sidered the most general vineyard Grape of France, 
from Champagne or Marne, to Marseilles or Bordeaux. 
The best Avine in Italy and Spain, is also made from 
Grapes of this description ; but in both countries many 
of the larger berried sorts are grown on account of 
their producing more liquor. The sweet wines, as 
the Malmsey, Madeira, Constantia, Tokay, &c. are 
made from sweet-berried Grapes allowed to remain on 
the plants till over-ripe. That wine is the strongest, 
and has most flavour, in which both the skins and 
stones are bruised and fermented. The same thing is 
the case in making cider ; but in both processes bruis- 
ing the stones or kernels is often neglected. The vine 
was formerly extensively cultivated in Britain for the 
wine press, but its culture is now confined to the garden 
as a dessert fruit ; and they have in that country not only 
the best varieties, but they grow the fruit to a larger 
size, and of a higher flavour, than is done any where 
else in the world ; this is owing to the perfection of 
their artificial climates, and the great attention paid 
to soil and sub-soil, and other points of culture. The 
fruit is produced in some vineries during every month 
of the year ; and in the London markets (generally) 
it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from 
March to January. 

The Vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bot- 
tom ; and in such as are rich and deep it will grow 



269- GRAPE, 

luxuriantly, and produce abundance of large fruit ; iit 
siiallow, dry, chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce 
less fruit, but of better flavour. Speedily recommends 
dung reduced to a black mould, the dust and dirt of 
roads, the ofFal of animals, or butchers' manure, horn 
shavings, old rags, shavings of leather, bone dust, 
dung of deer and sheep, human excrement, when duly 
meliorated by time, a winter's frost, and repeatedly 
turning over. Abercrombie says that dung out of a 
cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the- 
Vine ; he recommends drainings from dunghills to be 
used over the ground once in ten or fourteen days from 
the time the buds rise, till the fruit is set, and that 
fresh horse dung be spread over the ground in autumn 
as a manure, and also to protect the roots from the in- 
clemency of the weather; some, however, disapprove 
of manuring high, as being calculated to produce woodi 
rather than fniit. 

The general mode of propagating the Vine is by 
cuttings, either a foot or more long, with a portion of 
two year old wood, or short, with only one bud, or 
one bud and a half joint, &c. Vines are to be had at 
the nurseries, propagated either from layers, cuttings^ 
or eyes ; but plants raised from cuttings are generally 
preferred ; many are of opinion that it is a matter of 
indifference from which class the choice is made, pro- 
vided the plants are well rooted, and in good health, 
and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility, i& 
to select the plants in the nursery a year before want- 
ed, and to order them to be potted in very large pots.. 
Varieties without end are raised from seed, and it is 
thought that by propagating from the seeds of succes- 
sive generations, some sorts may ultimately be pro- 
cured, better adapted for ripening their fruit in the 
open air than now known. A seedling Vine, carefully 
treated, will show blossoms in its fourth or fifth year ; 



GRAPE. 261 

say that it produces a fair specimen of its fruit in the 
sixth year, then a new generation may be obtained so 
often; but seeds ought never to be sown, except for 
experiment. 

William Robert Prince, Esq., in his Treatise on the 
Vine, published 1830, enumerates about five hundred 
and fifty varieties in cultivation, in the vineyard at- 
tached to the Linnaean Botanic Garden at Flushing, 
including about ninety American native Grapes ; but 
no sufficient evidence has as yet been exhibited of 
vineyards flourishing here equal to what they do in 
Europe. Mr. Loubat has attempted to establish a 
vineyard on Long Island, which he abandoned, after 
six years' arduous exertion. The'/ollowing have been 
found to succeed best in the vicinity of New York : 
the Sweetwater, the Chasselas, the Muscadine, the 
White Tokay, the Black Hamburgh, the Blue Cortiga, 
the Miller Burgundy, the Austrian Muscadel, the 
Messlier, the Morilon, the Black Prince, Blanc, and 
some excellent seedling sorts from the imported Lisbon 
Grapes. To plant a vinery for a full crop of good 
Grapes of various flavours, take a white and red Mus- 
cat, a white and red, or black Muscadine, a white and 
red Frontignac, a black or red Muscadel, a white 
Raisin Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a StilwelPs, 
and red Sweetwaters, a white and red Nice, a black 
Damascus, a red Syracuse, and a black Constantia. 
The above list contains some of the most esteemed 
table Grapes, of all colours and flavours, which will 
ripen in succession. The most preferable kinds of our 
native Grapes, for private gardens, are the ' Catawba,* 
the York, (Pa.) 'Black Madeira,' the Schuylkill, 
Muscadel, and the Isabella. To these may be added 
the Scuppernong, or Hickman Grape, which is said to 
be larger than the Fox Grape, of a delightful perfume, 
and, when ripe, it is of a yellowish white colour. 

23* 



^62 GliAV^. 

Previous to planting Vines, care should be takers 
that the ground be well pulverized and prepared for 
some distance around, for the roots to spread. The 
soil should be deep and dry, and some rich compost, or 
vegetable mould, should be used around the roots in 
filling in ; a handful or two of wet ashes to each plant 
is recommended by Mr. Loubat as beneficial ; and he 
recommends the planting to be done in the month of 
March, or early in April. 

There are various methods adopted in training and 
pruning the Vine ; and it appears impossible to lay 
down rules to suit every cultivator. The Vine having, 
like other trees, a tendency to produce its most vigo- 
rous shoots at the extremities of the branches, and 
particularly so at those which are situated highest, it 
generally happens, when it is trained high, that the 
greater portion of the fruit is borne near the top ; and 
it has been observed, that the fruit produced on the 
vigorous shoots, which naturally grow at the extre- 
mities of the long branches, is generally more abun- 
dant, and of finer quality, than that produced on the 
short lateral ones, from which circumstance, high 
training seems to be the best calculated for private 
gardens. 

In some parts of Italy, Vines are cultivated together 
with Mulberry trees, and are allowed to mingle and 
hang in festoons ; thus silk and wine are produced on 
the same spot ; and it is considered that when Vines 
are allowed to grow over trees, on the sides of a house, 
or on bowers, or extended on tall poles, without much 
trimming, they will produce more fruit, and are not so 
liable to mildew. Dr. G. W. Chapman, of New York, 
having paid some attention to the cultivation of na- 
tive Grapes, observes, that the Vine, in its natural 
state, seldom or ever throws out bearing shoots until 



GRAPE. 263 

it reaches the top of the tree on which it ascends, 
when the branches take a horizontal or descending 
position. From this fact, he considers horizontal 
training preferable to that in the fan shape. From the 
experiments he has made, he has found that the 
shoots coming from those parts of the branches bent 
downwards, are more productive than from tJiose as- 
cending ; he considers deep digging around the Vine, 
even to the destruction of some of the extending roots, 
as calculated to promote the growth of more fruit and 
less wood, than if allowed to spread near the surface ; 
and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the 
fruit until July. 

Mr. William Wilson, of Clermont, leaves his Vines 
their whole length at the time of trimming in October. 
In November they are laid on the ground at full 
length, fastened down with pins, and covered lightly 
with earth ; in this state they lie all the winter. In 
April, as soon as the weather will permit, they are 
uncovered, and left lying on the ground ten or twelve 
days; by the first of May, the Vines are trained to 
stakes or poles of the length often feet and upwards ; 
and by the middle of June, the stakes are entirely 
covered by new shoots of the Vine, and with plenty of 
fruit, which ripens in September. Mr. W. says, that 
until he pursued his present course, his fruit was fre- 
quently blasted and mildewed, but that he has now 
Vines twenty or thirty feet long, which run up the 
fruit trees adjoining ; otliers. being carried up eight or 
ten feet, are stretched horizontally. It is seldom he 
gathers fruit within three or four feet of the ground, 
and he has never any blasted or infected with mildew ; 
he keeps the ground cultivated by frequent hoeing 
and raking ; but he says he has used no manure for 
ten years or more. 

Edward H. Bonsall, Esq., has a vineyard of Ame- 



264 



GRAPE. 



rican Grapes at GermantowDj Pa., in a high state of 
cultivation. In page 331 of Prince's Treatise on the 
Vine, is a letter to the author, containing some valua- 
ble information, from which the following is extracted 
as appropriate to our subject : 

Mr. Bonsall's vineyard is situated between the 
Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, four miles from the 
former, and eight from the latter, at an elevation of 300 
feet above their level, have an aspect facing S. S. E., 
with a substratum of light isinglass soil, and seems well 
suited to the purpose. He says, ^' from my experience, 
both on my premises and at other places, it is my 
opinion that we should reject almost all the foreign 
varieties, especially where our object in cultivating 
them is to make wine." He has upwards of thirty 
variety of American Vines under cultivation; he re- 
commends preparing the ground by ploughing with 
two ploughs with strong teams, one immediately be- 
hind the other, in the same furrow, each of them set 
deep ; and after the ploughing is completed, to be 
harrowed thoroughly. Then in the direction the rows 
are intended to be planted, parallel furrows are run 
across the field, at the distance of eight feet from each 
other; these are afterwards crossed at right angles, 
five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection 
of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches 
long are planted, and arranged with a view to the 
Vines being, when grown, at distances of four by seven 
feet from each other ; to this end, he frequently plants 
two cuttings in a place, some of which are used to fill 
up with, in case of failures. He says, that in 1829 he 
planted in nursery beds from two to three thousand 
cuttings as late as the middle of April to the middle of 
May, with better success than at any previous time. 
" In this case, the slips should be kept in a cool damp 
place, where vegetation may be held in check. To 



GRAPE. 265 

insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally Avith 
water. Previous to planting, cut them a proper length, 
and place them, with their lower ends three or four 
inches in water, in a tub above ground, where they 
may soak three or four days. At this season the tem- 
perature will be likely to be such as will spur vegeta- 
tion at once into healthy and vigorous action. The 
fall, or early in the spring, is preferable for rooted 
plants. In the autumn of the first year, after the frost 
has killed the unripe part of the young shoots, they 
should be pruned down to the mature firm wood, and 
then with a hoe hilled over with the surrounding soil, 
which will completely protect them through the win- 
ter. If left without protection the first winter, many 
of them will perish. '^ 

Mr. Bonsall says his mode of training, as far as he 
is aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he 
describes as follows : "I take chestnut posts, the thick- 
ness of large fence rails, seven feet in length ; these I 
plant along the rows, at distances of ten feet from 
each other, and at such a depth as to leave five feet 
above the surface of the earth; then taking three nails 
to each post, and driving them to within half an inch 
of their heads, the first two and a half feet from the 
ground, a second midway between that and the top, 
and the third near the top, I attach No. 11 iron wire 
(one degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in 
the end post, pass on to the next, and stretching it 
straight and tight, give it one turn round a nail in the 
same line as the one to which it was first attached. 
Having in this manner extended it along the three 
courses, the whole length of the roAV, my trellis is 
formed. I have had a portion of my vineyard fitted 
up in this way for three years, and experience has 
confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not 
its least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree 



266 GRAPL. 

the character of labour-saving machinery. A -very 
important and extensive labour-making portion of the 
operations in the vineyard during the summer, is the 
attention required by the growing shoots to keep them 
properly trained up. They grow and extend them- 
selves so rapidly, that were the strips of the treUis are 
lath, or where poles are used to support Vines, unless 
very closely watched, they fall down in every direc- 
tion, in a very unsightly and injurious manner. Here 
the wire being small, the tendrils or claspers eagerly 
and firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for 
themselves, in probably two-thirds of the instances 
where the attention of the vigneron would otherwise 
be required. There is a free access aflforded to the sun 
and air, and no hold for the wind to strain the frame,' ' 
&c. Mr. Bonsall says further, ''I shall not enter into 
minute description of my manner of pruning, but may 
just say, that after the vines have attained a full ca- 
pacity for production, (say five years from the cutting,) 
my view is to prepare them for bearing an average of 
fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of from 
three to five joints on a vine for this purpose. When 
fresh pruned, they will not be more than four feet high, 
at their greatest age." 

• Although the man of taste and capacity for improv- 
ing on the improvements of others may have gleaned 
ideas from the above extracts , sufficient to enable him 
to cultivate the vine in his own garden, it may be 
necessary to direct the reader's attention to the differ- 
ent methods of cultivating this excellent fruit in varied 
situations. 

A Vine may be trained horizontally under the 
coping of a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and 
the borders in an east, south-east, and southern aspect 
of large gardens, may be furnished a variety of sorts, 
which will ripen in great perfection, without encum- 



GRAPE. 



267 



l)ering the borders ; or the plants may be trained low, 
like currant bushes, in which case, three or more 
shoots, eighteen inches or two feet in length, may 
diverge from the stem near the ground, to supply 
young wood annually for bearing. The summer prun- 
ing consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, 
or are not required for the succeeding season ; in 
topping fruit-bearing shoots, and also those for suc- 
ceeding years, when inconveniently long and strag- 
gling. For as by this mode, the shoots destined to 
bear, are all cut into three or four eyes at the winter 
pruning, no inconvenience arises from their throwing 
out laterals near the extremities,, which stopping will 
generally cause them to do. In training Vines as 
standards, the single stem at bottom is not allowed to 
exceed six or eight inches in height, and from this 
two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a single stake 
of three or four feet in length. These shoots bear 
each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen 
inches of the ground, and they are annually succeeded 
by others which spring from their base, that is, from 
the crow^n or top of the dwarf main stem. This is the 
mode practised in the north of France and in Germany ; 
in the south of France and Italy, the base or main 
stem is often higher, and furnished with side shoots, 
in order to afford a great supply of bearing wood, 
which is tied to one or more poles of greater height. 
The summer pruning in this case, is nearly the same 
as in the last- In the winter pruning, the wood that 
has borne is cut out, and the new wood shortened, in 
cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer 
places to six or eight eyes. 

Abercrombie's methods of pruning established Vines, 
admit of much diversity, as the plants are in diflferent 
situations. Without reckoning the cutting down of 
young or weak plants alternately to the lowermost 



268 GRAPE. 

summer shoots, which is but a temporary course, three 
different systems of pruning have their advocates. In 
the first method, one perpendicular leader is trained 
from the stem, at the side of which, to the right and 
left, the ramifications spring. When the plant is 
established, the immediate bearers or shoots of the 
growing season, and the mother bearers, or shoots of the 
last year's growth, are thus managed. Soon after the 
growing season has commenced, such rising shoots as 
either are in fruit and fit to be retained, or are eligibly 
placed for mother bearers next season, are laid in, 
either horizontally, or with a slight diagonal rise, at 
something less than a foot distance, measuring from 
one bearing shoot to the next : the rising shoots, in- 
tended to form young wood, should be taken as near 
the origin of the branch as a good one offers, to allow 
of cutting away, beyond the adopted lateral, a greater 
quantity of the branch, as it becomes old wood ; the 
new spring laterals, not wanted for one of these two 
objects, are pinched off. The treatment of those 
retained during the rest of the summer, thus differs : 
As the shoots in bearing extend in growth, they are 
kept stopped about two eyes beyond the fruit ; the 
connate shoots, cultivated merely to enlarge the pro- 
vision of wood, are [divested of embryo branches, if 
they show any, and trained at full length as they 
advance during the summer, until they reach the 
allotted bounds ; were they stopped in the middle of 
their growth, it would cause them to throw out 
troublesome laterals ; in the winter pruning, there 
will thus be a great choice of mother bearers. That 
nearest the origin of the former mother bearer, or most 
commodiously placed, is retained, and the other or 
others on the same branch are cut away ; the rest of 
the branch is also taken off, so that the old wood may 
terminate with the adopted lateral ; the adopted shoot 



ORAPE. 269 

IS then shortened to two, three, four, or a greater 
number of eyes, according to its place on the Vine, its 
own strength, or the strength of the Vine. The lower 
shoots are pruned-in the shortest, in order to keep the 
means of always supplying young wood at the bottom 
of the Vine. 

The second method is to head down the natural 
leader, so as to cause it to throw out two, three, or 
more principal shoots ; these are trained as leading 
branches; and in the winter pruning are not reduced, 
unless to shape them to the limits of the trellis, or 
unless the plant appears too weak to sustain them 
at length. Laterals from these are cultivated about 
twelve inches apart, as mother bearers ; those in fruit 
are stopped in summer, and after the fall of the leaf, 
are cut into one or two eyes. From the appearance 
of the mother bearers, thus shortened, this has been 
called spur-bearing. 

The third method seems to flow from taking the 
second plan as a foundation, in having more than one 
aspiring leader, and from joining the superstructure of 
the first system immediately to this, in reserving well 
placed shoots to come in as bearing wood. Thus, 
supposing a stem which has been headed, to send up 
four vigorous competing leaders, two are suffered to 
bear fruit, and two are divested of such buds as break 
into clusters, and trained to the length often, twelve, 
or fifteen feet, or more, for mother bearers next season. 
In the winter pruning, the leaders which have borne 
a crop, are cut down to within two eyes of the stool, 
or less, according to the strength of the plant, while 
the reserved shoots lose no more of their tops than is 
necessary to adjust them to the trellis. 

Nicol observes, that '* most of the summer pruning 
of Vines may be performed with the fingers, without 

24 



270 GRAFE. 

a knife, the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed 
off, and those to be shortened, being brittle, are readily 
pinched asunder," After selecting the'shoots to be 
trained for the production of a crop next season, and 
others necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom, 
which shoots should be generally laid in, at the dis- 
tance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other, rub 
off all the others that have no clusters, and shorten 
those that have, at one joint above the uppermost 
cluster. For this purpose, go over the plants every 
three or four days, till all the shoots in fruit have 
shown their clusters, at the same time rubbing off any 
water shoots that may rise from the wood. 

Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance. 
If there be an under trellis, on which to train the 
summer shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in 
length, or when the Grapes are swelling, be let down 
to it, that the fruit may enjoy the full air and light, as 
it advances towards maturity. Such of these shoots 
as issue from the bottom, and are to be shortened in 
the winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for the pro- 
duction of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped 
when they have grown to the length of four or five 
feet. Others that are intended to be cut down to 
about two yards, and which issue at different heights, 
may be stopped when they have run three yards, or 
ten feet, less or more, according to their strength. 
And those intended to cut at, or near to the top of the 
trellis, should be trained a yard or two down the back, 
or a trellis may be placed so as to form an arbour ; or 
they may be placed to run right or left a few feet on 
the uppermost wire. 

The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed, 
will probably push agaim after being stopped, if the 
plants be vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; 



GRAPE. 



271 



but after the fruit are half grown, they will seldom 
spring. Observe to divest the shoots, in training, of 
all laterals as they appear, except the uppermost on 
each, in order to provide against accidents, as hinted 
at above, in training the new planted Vines. When 
these shoots are stopped, as directed above, they Avill 
push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run a 
few joints, and then shorten it back to one; and so on, 
as it pushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper 
shoots get ripened nearly to the top, the whole may 
be cut back to the originally shortened part, or to one 
joint above it, if there be reason to fear that the up- 
permost bud of the proper shoot will start. 

Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves 
as they appear, as such will sometimes occur in con- 
tinued hazy weather, and be particularly cautious not 
to injure the leaf that accompanies the bunch, for if 
that is iost, the fruit will be of little value. 

" Every one of penetration and discernment,'' Nicol 
obserres, "will admit the utility of thinning the berries 
on bunches of grapes, in order that they may have 
room to swell fully ; and further, that of supporting 
the shoulders of such clusters of the large growing 
kinds as hang loosely, and require to be suspended to 
the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad 
effects of damp or mouldiness in very moist seasons. 
Of these, the Hamburgh, Lombardy, Royal Musca- 
dine, Raisin, St. Peter's Syrian, Tokay, and others, 
should have their shoulders suspended to the trellis, 
or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when 
the berries are about the size of garden peas. At the 
same time, the clusters should be regularly thinned 
out with narrow -pointed scissors, to the extent of from 
a fourth to a third part of the berries. The other close 
growing kinds, as the Frontignacs, Muscats, &c.j 



272 GRAPE. 

should likewise be moderately thinned, observing to 
thin out the small seedless berries only of the Musca- 
dine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay. In 
this manner^ handsome bunches and full swelled 
berries may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters 
or over-burdened plants be also moderately thinned 
away. Indeed, cutting off the clusters, to a certain 
extent, of plants over-loaded, and pushing weak wood, 
is the only means by which to cause them to produce 
shoots fit to bear fruit next year ; and this should be 
duly attended to, so long as the future welfare of the 
plants is a matter of importance." 

The preceding observations may be considered as 
falling ^short of what may be expected on the cultiva- 
tion of so important a fruit as the Grape ; but it is 
introduced into this work only as a garden fruit. The 
modes of training in vineyards and vineries, are alike 
suited to the garden. Low training may be practised 
in borders or hedge rows, in large gardens ; and high 
training in sheltered situations, on high trellises or 
arbours. By proper management, the Vine may be ele- 
vated to the middle story of a house by a single stem, 
and afterwards trained to a great height, according to 
the taste of the proprietor. As the Vine is often trained 
near buildings, an awning may be conveniently formed 
over the tops, so as to admit of fumigating the Vine 
with smoke from tobacco, &c., as may be necessary 
in the summer season j or a sort of movable tent may 
be made of light boards, and cheap glazed linen, or 
an old sail, &c. capable of covering the Vine while a 
smoke is created underneath ; this will effectually 
destroy such insects as may annoy the Vine, and may 
prevent mildew and othei: diseases. 



273 

MULBERRY. 
MuRiER. Morus. 

There are several species of the Morus or Mulberry . 
The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves 
to feed silkworms, though in some parts of Spain, and 
in Persia, they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. 
In China, it appears that both sorts are grown for the 
same purpose. The most esteemed variety of the 
white is one grown in Italy, and especially in Lom- 
bardy, with vigorous shoots, and much larger leaves 
than the other. The Morus multicaulis is cultivated 
in many parts of France, and is by some preferred 
to all other varieties. It is said that a less quantity 
of foHage from this variety will satisfy the silkworms. 
The late Andrew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of 
introducing several choice varieties from that country ; 
and our nurserymen generally, have, of late years, 
turned their attention to the cultivation of such as are 
best adapted for silkworms, which are sold at mode- 
rate prices. 

In France, the white Mulberry is grown as pollard 
Elms are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in 
low marshy ground. In China, it is also grown in 
moist loamy soil, and both there and in the East Indies, 
as low bushes, and the plantations rooted up and re- 
newed every three or four years. In many parts, 
when the leaves are wanted for the worms, they are 
stripped off the young shoots, which are left naked on 
the tree ; in other places, the shoots are cut off, whidi 
is not so injurious to the tree, while the points of the 
shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms. 
The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one 
ounce of seed will produce 5000 trees, if sown in rich 
loamy soil, the latter end of April, or early in May ; 
but the young plants will require protection the first 

24* 



274 MULBERRr. 

winter; they are more commonly propagated by 
layings and cuttings, put down in the spring. The 
Italian variety is frequently grafted on seedling stocks 
of the common sort, in order to preserve it from de- 
generating. In the East-Indies, the plants are raised 
from cuttings, three or four of wiiich are placed to- 
gether, where they are finally to remain. 

But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit; and 
ill England the black and red kinds are in great 
esteem, and much cultivated. The fruit of the white 
Mulberry is white, and less acid than that of the black 
species. The black is naturally a stronger tree than 
the other ; the fruit is of a dark blackish red, and of 
an agreeable aromatic and acid flavour. The red 
Mulberry has black shoots, rougher leaves than the 
black Mulberry, and a dark reddish fruit, longer than 
the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste. The 
fruit of the yellow Mulberry is very sweet and whole- 
some, but not much eaten, excepting by birds ; the 
timber, however, is valuable, from its abounding 
in a slightly glutinous milk of a sulphureous colour, 
and is known in Europe under the name of fustic 
wood, for dying a yellow colour. 

In Russia, the fruit of the Morus tartarica is eaten 
Iresh, conserved, or dried ; a wine and a spirit are 
also made from them, but the berries are said to be of 
an insipid taste. All the species of Morus are remark- 
able for putting out their leaves late, so that when 
they appear, gardeners may safely set out their green- 
house plants, taking it for granted that all danger from 
frost is over ; from this circumstance, plantations of 
Mulberry trees may be made in this country, in the 
spring of the year with greater safety. 

The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little 
shoots of the same year, which arise on last year's 
wood, and on spurs from the two year old wood ; in 



MIJLBERRY. 275 

both stages, mostly at the ends of the shoots and 
branches. In pruning, thin out irregular crossing 
branches, but never shorten the young wood, on 
which the fruit is produced. If any of the dwarfish 
kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut so 
as to bring in a partial succession of new wood every 
year, and a complete succession once in two years, 
taking the old barren wood out as may be necessary. 
As the blossom buds cannot be readily distinguished 
from others in the winter, the best period for pruning 
is when the blossoms first become visible in spring. 

There is another genus of plants known as the Paper 
Mulberry, which is very ornamentaU called Brousso- 
netia papyrifera ; though a low tree, it has vigorous 
shoots, furnished with two large leaves ; the fruit 
which is small, is surrounded with long purpled hairs, 
changing to a black purple colour when ripe, and full 
of juice. ^' In China and Japan, it is cultivated for the 
sake of the young shoots, from the bark of which the 
inhabitants of the eastern countries make paper. The 
bark being separated from the wood, is steeped in 
water, the former making the whitest and best paper. 
The bark is next slowly boiled, then washed, and 
afterwards put upon a wooden table, and beat into a 
pulp. This pulp being put in water, separates like 
grains of meal. An infusion of rice, and the root of 
manhiot is next added to it. From the liquor so pre- 
pared, the sheets of paper are poured out one by one, 
and when pressed, the operation is finished." 

'' The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to 
be used in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or 
paper. The finest and whitest cloth worn by the 
principal people at Otaheite, and in the Sandwich 
Islands, is made of the bark of this tree. The cloth 
of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior in whiteness and 
softness, and worn chiefly by the common people." 



276 

NECTARINE. 
Pecher a Fruit LissE, ou Brognons. 

Amygdahs nectarina. 

The varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in 
every respect, except that the skin is perfectly smooth, 
of a waxen appearance, and the flesh generally more 
firm ; although of the same genus as the Peach, which 
is so plentiful in this country, the fruit of the Necta- 
rine is quite a rarity, and seldom appears in our mar- 
kets. There are seventy-two varieties cultivated in 
the Horticultural Garden of London ; and Nicol says, 
that ''no varieties of the Nectarine are at present 
known to have originated in North America, except 
the Boston." 

It is generally allowed that their failure is occa- 
sioned by the attacks of insects. The most efficacious 
method that I have heard of, for securing any thing 
like a crop of Nectarines, is to fumigate the trees in 
the evening, when the air is calm and serene, at the 
season when the fruit is ready to set, see page 215 to 
222. Tobacco is the most effectual antidote for in- 
sects ; but a friend of mine collected a quantity of salt 
hay that had been used as a covering for his spinach, 
the preceding winter ; with this he created a smoke, 
first on one side of his plantation, and afterwards on 
the other, by which means he obtained a good supply 
of fruit. Our enterprising horticulturist, Mr. Wm. 
Shaw, has succeeded in gathering fine fruit, by pur- 
suing the English plan, namely, in training his trees 
against a close fence ; and it has been discovered by 
others, that the Nectarine, like the Grape Vine, will 
yield best in sheltered situations. That eminent hor- 
ticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, observes, that "a vast 
quantity of fruit is naturally destroyed by a worm^ 



NECTAEINE. 277 

which causes the Plum, Apricotj and Nectarine, pre- 
maturely to drop from the tree. To prevent this loss, 
let the tree, after the blossoms fall, be frequently 
shaken by a cord connected with a swinging door, or 
with a working pump-handle, &c. ; or let the bugs be 
jarred from the tree and killed. Or keep geese or pigs 
enough in the fruit garden to devour all the damaged 
fruit as it falls. We know that this last method is 
infallible." 

As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, 
for fear of disturbing the fruit, such may be reminded, 
that if the blossoms set more fruit than can be sup- 
ported, it will not come to full perfection, and the trees 
may be injured in their future bearing ; for these rea- 
sons, when fruit sets too thick, it should be thinned in 
an early stage of its growth. 

The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the 
same species, or on Peach or Plum, two or three years 
old. Knight recommends growing Almond stocks for 
the finer kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to 
prevent the mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. 
Dubreuil recommends a Plum stock for clayey soils, 
and the Almond for such as are light, chalky, or sandy. 
The same opinion is held by the Montreul gardeners. 
The Flemish nurserymen graft both the Peach and 
Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum, a very small cherry - 
shaped fruit. 

The budding may be performed in July or August, 
in the side of the stock, which will, if properly ma- 
naged, shoot the following spring, and attain the 
length of three or four feet in a summer's growth. 
After the budded trees have ripened the first year's 
shoots, they may either be planted where they are to 
remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or 
four years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants 
be removed into the orchard at a year old, or remain 



278 ORANGt:, LEMON, &C. 

in the nursery, the first shoots from the bud must be 
headed down in a judicious manner, in order to pro- 
mote the most desirable form. Jn annual pruning, 
thin out superfluous branches and dry wood, and 
shorten the bearing shoots. 

Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, 
in private gardens ; in which case, such plants should 
be chosen as are budded low. See Apricot, page 235. 



ORANGE, LEMON, &c. 
Oranger, Citronier, &c. Citrus. 

Notwithstanding this fruit, and also the Lemon, 
Lime, &c., is attainable at all seasons of the year, by 
supplies from the Southern States, the West Indies, 
and the south of Europe, yet the plants are entitled to 
our notice on account of their being so easily cultiva- 
ted, and from their affording an ornament in exhibiting 
their fruit the whole of the year. 

The Orange, as well as others of the same genus, is 
generally cultivated as a green-house plant, but may 
be kept in a light room throughout our severe winters, 
provided the temperature is not suffered to be below 
the freezing point, 32. Its recommendations are, 
handsome evergreen, shining, tree-like forms; most 
odoriferous flowers, and brilliant, fragrant, delicious 
fruits, which succeed each other perpetually, and are 
not unfrequently seen on the tree at the same time, in 
two or three stages of growth. A work has recently 
been published at Paris, edited by Messrs. Risso and 
Poiteau, which contains engravings and descriptions 
of one hundred and sixty-nine varieties. They are 
arranged as sweet Oranges, of which they describe 42 
sorts ; bitter and sour Oranges, 32 sorts ; Bergamots, 



ORANGE, LE3I0N, &C. 279 

o sorts ; Limes, 8 sorts ; Shaddocks, 6 sorts ; Lumes^ 
12 sorts ; Lemons, 46 sorts ; Citrons, 17 sorts. 

All the species of Citrus endure the open air at Nice, 
Genoa, and Naples ; but at Florence and Milan, and 
often at Rome, they require protection during the 
winter, and are generally planted in conservatories 
and sheds. In England, these trees have been culti- 
vated since 1629 ; they are generally planted in con- 
servatories. Loudon says, that in the south of De- 
vonshire, and particularly at Saltcombe, may be seen, 
in a few gardens. Orange trees that have withstood 
the winter in the open air upwards of a hundred years. 
The fruit is as large and fine as any from Portugal. 
Trees raised from seed, and inoculated on the spot, are 
found to bear the cold better than trees imported. At 
Nuneham, near Oxford, are some fine old trees, planted 
under a movable case, sheltered by a north wall. In 
summer, the case is removed, and the ground turfed 
over, so that the whole resembles a native Orange 
grove. The author, being a native of Abingdon, which 
is within three miles of the Earl of Harcourt's estate 
at Nuneham, has had frequent opportunities of tasting 
the fruit, which he believes to be equal to that of 
warmer climates. At Woodhall, near Hamilton, trees 
of all the species of Citrus are trained against the back 
walls of forcing-houses, and produce large crops of 
fruit. Any of the varieties of the Orange, Lemon, 
Lime, Shaddock, Citron, &c. may be grafted or budded 
on stocks of the common Orange or Lemon ; but the 
seeds of Shaddocks and Citrons produce the strongest 
stocks ; and on these may be engrafted such kinds as 
may be needed for a conservatory. The most suitable 
time for budding is July and August; but this opera- 
tion may be performed at any time when the sap is in 
motion. The directions for the management of green- 
house plants, page 189, apply to this family of plants, 



280 PEACH. 

to which I refer my readers. A friend of mine, who is 
a native of Rouen, in Normandy, informs me, that a 
Mr. Valee, of that city, succeeds in clearing about 
twelve thousand francs per annum from the flowers of 
-Orange trees, which are distilled for essences, &c. 



PEACH. 

Pecher. Amygdalus Persica. 

It is generally considered that the Peach is of Per- 
sian origin. In Media, it is deemed unwholesome; 
hut when planted in Egypt, becomes pulpy, delicious, 
and salubrious. It has been cultivated, time imme- 
morial, in most parts of Asia ; when it was introduced 
into Greece, is uncertain. The best Peaches in Eu- 
rope are supposed to be grown in Italy on, standards. 

The list of Peaches in the London Catalogue, con- 
tains two hundred and twenty -four names, fifty of 
which are denominated American Peaches. Several 
attempts have been made to class the varieties of 
Peaches and Nectarines by the leaf and flower, as well 
as the fruit. Mr. Robertson, a nurseryman at Kil- 
kenny, has founded his arrangement on the glands of 
the leaves ; and Mr. George Lindley, of London, has, 
in a peculiarly distinct manner, arranged no fewer 
than one hundred and fifty-five sorts of Peaches and 
Nectarines in well-defined divisions and sections. 
There are various instances on record (Hort. Trans. 
Vol. I, p. 103,) of both fruits growing on the same 
tree, even on the same branch ; and one case has 
occurred of a single fruit partaking of the nature of 
both. The French consider them as one fruit, ar- 
ranging them in four divisions ; the Peches, or free 
ston« Peaches ; the Peches lisses, or free-stone Necta- 



PEACH. 281 

lines, or free-stone Peaches ; the Pavies, or cling-stone 
Peaches ; and the Brognons, or Nectarines, or cHng- 
stone smooth Peaches. 

Although this fruit will thrive in any sweet, pulve- 
rized soil that is properly prepared, a rich sandy loam 
is the most suitable. Next to the selection and pre- 
paration of a suitable soil, a choice of good healthy 
trees is of the utmost importance. The seed for stocks 
should be selected from the fruit of vigorous-growing 
young, or middle-aged healthy trees ; and the buds 
should be taken from some of the choicest fruit-bearing 
trees that can be found. Let the stocks be fairly 
tesied before they are budded, and if any infection 
exist in the stocks, or in the vicinity of where the 
choice of buds may fall, reject them, if you wish to 
rear a healthful progeny ; as more depends on these 
particular points than many are aware of. 

In this country, the Peach is generally budded on 
stocks of its own kind ; but in England it is often 
budded on damask Plum stocks, and some of the more 
delicate sorts on Apricot stocks, or old Apricot trees 
cut down ; or on seedling Peaches, Almonds, or Nec- 
tarines. See article Nectarine, page 276. Cobbett 
says, '^ there are thousands of Peach trees in England 
and France that are fifty years old, and that are still 
in vigorous fruitfulness." He attributes the ''swift 
decay of the Peach tree here to their being grafted on 
stocks of their kind." 

Care should be taken to keep the trees clear of in- 
sects, by washing, fumigation, &c. ; see article, page 
215. A celebrated horticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, 
very justly remarks, in page 29 of the fifth volume of 
the New York Repository, that '' could the insect 
Curculio species be satisfied with three-fourths of all 
the fruit that set on our trees, we should be great 

25 



382 PEACH. 

gainers by keeping such a fellow in our employment ; 
for the fruit would be larger, and far more delicious. 
But we cannot restrain him within reasonable bounds, 
and we must be content to thin it on the branches by 
our thumbs and fingers. This is an important opera- 
tion ; without it, several varieties of these fruits are 
not fit for the table ; and it is remarkable, that if the 
supernumeraries are removed, even so late as not 
visibly to affect the size of the remainder, still their 
flavour will be greatly improved. Last season, our 
grosse mignon Peach tree was overloaded, and the fruit 
comparatively insipid ; yet after much the greater part 
had dropped in the due course of ripening, we found 
the gleanings to be really fine." 

As these, and similar points, are too little attended to, 
I prefer giving entire extracts from the writings of 
eminent horticulturists, to which I would strenuously 
invite the attention of my readers, in every instance. 
All the varieties of the Peach and Nectarine produce 
the fruit upon the young wood of a year old, the blos- 
som buds rising immediately from the eyes of the 
shoots. The same shoots seldom bear after the first 
year, except on some casual small spurs on the two 
years' wood, which is not to be counted upon. Hence 
the trees are to be pruned as bearing entirely on the 
shoots of the preceding year, and a full supply of re- 
gular grown shoots must be retained for successional 
bearers. Cut out the redundant shoots, and all de- 
cayed and dead wood, and reduce some of the former 
bearers, cutting the most naked quite away. 

A Peach Orchard may be planted at any time after 
the bud is established, until the trees are three or four 
years old, which may be placed from fifteen to twenty 
feet from each other, or from any other spreading 
trees. The dwarf kinds may be introduced into the 



PEAR. 283 

kitchen garden, and trained against fences, as directed 
for the Apricot, or as espaliers, or dwarf standardSo 



PEAR. 
PoiRiER. Pyrus. 

The Pear tree, in its wild state, is thorny, with up- 
right branches, tending to the pyramidal form, in 
which it differs materially from the Apple tree. The 
twigs, or sprays, hang down ; the leaves are elliptical, 
obtuse, serrate; the flowers in terminating, villose 
corymbs, produced from wood of the preceding year, or 
from buds gradually formed on the several years' 
growth, on the extremities of very short protruding 
shoots, technically called spurs. It is found in a wild 
state in England, and abundantly in France and Ger- 
many, as well as in other parts of Europe, not except- 
ing Russia, as far north as lat. 51. It grows in almost 
any soil. The cultivated tree differs from the Apple, 
not only in having a tendency to the pyramidal form, 
but also in being more apt to send out tap roots ; in 
being, as a seedling plant, longer (generally from fif- 
teen to eighteen years) of coming into bearing ; and 
when on its own root, or grafted on a wild Pear stock, 
of being much longer lived. In a dry soil, it will exist 
for centuries, and still keep its health, productiveness? 
and vigour. There are fewer good sorts of Pears, in 
proportion to the number of current varieties, than 
Apples. The Romans had thirty -six varieties in 
Pliny's time ; there are now several hundreds in the 
French and British nurseries ; the London Horticul- 
tural Catalogue contains the names of six hundred and 
twenty-two. Professor Van Mons, of Brussels, and 
M. Duquessie, of Mons, fruited about eight thousand 



284 PEAR. 

seedling Pears, from which they obtained nearly eight 
hundred sorts worth cultivating, (Neil's Hort. Jour.) 
The varieties are divided by the French into different 
classes of fruits, which are designated as Beurrees, 
Crevers, Poiree, &c. 

Criterion of a good Pear. — Dessert Pears are 
characterized by a sugary aromatic juice, with the 
pulp soft and sub-liquid, or melting, as in the Beurrees, 
or butter Pears ; or of a firm and crisp consistence, or 
breaking, as in the winter Bergamots. Kitchen 
Pears should be of a large size, with the flesh firm, 
neither breaking nor melting, and rather austere than 
sweet. Perry Pears may be either large or small ; 
but the more austere the taste, the better will be the 
liquor ; excellent perry is made from the wild Pear. 

Pear trees are raised from seed taken from the best 
sorts, for the purpose of obtaining new varieties, or for 
producing Pear stocks. In raising Pears for stocks, 
the wild Pear is preferred in Europe, as being calcu- 
lated to produce plants more hardy and durable than 
the cultivated sorts ; and for dwarfing and precocity, 
the Quince is preferred. 

The Pear is a much handsomer upright growing 
tree than the Apple ; more durable, and its wood hard 
and valuable for the turner and millwright; but its 
blossoms being white, are less showy than those of 
the Apple. A Pear Orchard may be planted at any 
time after the trees are two years' old from the graft ; 
and as trees from young stocks will not come into full 
bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear 
removing with care at any time within that period. 
They may be planted at from twenty to thirty -five 
feet distance from each other, according to the nature 
of the tree. The dwarf varieties may be planted in 
the kitchen garden, and trained either as espahers or 
dwarf standards. Pear trees will require but littl» 



PLUM. 285 

pruning after the heads are once formed ; in doing 
which, the branches should be permitted to extend on 
all sides freely. Several years may elapse before any 
cross-placed, very irregular, or crowded branches, 
require pruning; yet there are some kinds whose 
form of growth resembles the Apple ; such will need 
frequent pruning. ''The Pear tree," Mr. Phail says, 
" does not produce blossoms on the former year's 
wood," as several other sorts of trees do. Its blossom 
buds are formed upon spurs growing out of wood over 
one year old, and, consequently, projecting spurs all 
over the tree must be left for that purpose," In some 
pears, Knight observes, '' the fruit grows only on the 
inside of those branches which are exposed to the sun 
and air; in others, it occupies every part of the tree," 
Withering says, that '' the French make perry, or poire, 
from the fermented juice of the Pear, which is little 
inferior to wine ; and that even the bad eating kinds, 
pared and dried in the oven, will keep several years 
with or without sugar." 



PLUM. 
Pbunier. Prunus. 

The Plum tree rises fifteen feet in height, branching 
into a moderately spreading head, the leaves are 
ovate, serrated, and on short petioles ; petals white. 
The natural colour of the fruit is generally considered 
to be black; but the varieties in cultivation are of 
yellow, red, blue, and green colours, and of different 
forms and flavours. There areseveral good sorts grow 
wild in the hedges of Britain, and also in America, 
but its original country is supposed to be Asia; and 
according to Pliny, it was taken from Svria into 

25*' 



286 TLim. 

Greece, and from thence into Italy. There are many 
varieties cultivated in France ; and in the London 
Horticultural Garden there are two hundred and 
ninety-eight sorts kept under name. The green Gage 
is considered the best dessert Plum, and the Wine-sour 
for sweetmeats ; but the Damson is the best baking 
Plum. 

The Plum is said to succeed best in a lofty exposure, 
and may yield well in the mountainous parts of the 
United States; it yields well near Albany, but the 
fruit is by no means plentiful in the vicinity of the 
city of New York. Like the Nectarine, it is subject 
to the attacks of insects. A correspondent, signed 
D. T., to the editor of the New York Farmer, 
page 60 of the third volume, remarks, that '' it has 
long been observed that Plum trees grooving in fre- 
quented lanes, or barn-yards, were generally fruitful, 
while those in secluded situations, as in gardens, were 
more rarely productive." The late Dr. Tilton has 
shown that the treading of live stock round the trees, 
made it not only more difficult for the worm to pene- 
trate the ground, but that his escape from the fallen 
fruit was rendered precarious by the approach of 
swine, eager to convey his habitation and him in a 
different direction. 

It is also stated that " the Curculio is a timid animal ; 
that the passing of live stock round the trees alarms 
him ; and we know that rubbing of swine and cattle, 
or any sudden jar, causes him instantly to djop to the 
ground. In accordance with these facts, some have 
kept their hogs among their Plum trees ; and a friend 
lately told me, that in consequence, his Plum trees had 
borne double during the last twelve years. This plan 
is much to be recommended among large trees ; but 
well-grown and well-^ed hogs become wanton, and I 
have several small trees greatly injured by their teeth 



PLUM. 2 St 

and by their rubbing. Neither will their rooting make 
amends for the trampling of the ground near small 
trees in wet weather; I have, therefore, determined 
to discharge these gentry during summer, and chiefly 
to trust the management of my fruit garden to the 
geese. Last season, I was much pleased with the 
activity of these birds ; scarcely a fallen Plum escaped 
them, which they swallow without difficulty, and the 
worm is every moment in danger." 

'* Many trees stand in gardens, however, where 
neither swine nor geese can be admitted ; and in such 
cases, I would suggest the trial of a plan by which I 
destroyed hundreds of these insects. Two large sheets 
made, of cheap factory cotton, were laid slightly to 
over-lap with the tree at the centre. A stroke of the 
hand for a small tree, or of a mallet for a large one, 
causes the Curculio instantly to drop on the sheet. 
The dark -brown colour of the insects contrasts with 
the Avhite cloth, and it may at once be discovered, and 
easily destroyed. Though it may seem inanimate, it 
will almost imperceptibly slide under the dead blos- 
soms that fall with it, and it then requires care to 
detect it. This process is expeditiously performed by 
five persons, two to each sheet, and one to strike the 
tree. I have strong hopes from this experiment ; and 
to begin with the dropping of the blossoms, and to 
visit the trees two or three times a day, for several 
weeks, would probably prevent any serious injury 
to the crop, and reduce these insects to a scanty rem- 
nant." 

New varieties of the Plum are produced from seed ;. 
and the old kinds are generally propagated by 
budding on stocks of free-growing Plums, in pre- 
ference to grafting, because Plum trees are very apt 
to gum wherever large wounds are made in them. AH 
the sorts produce their fruit on small natural spurs 
ising at the ends and along the sides of the bearing: 



288 QUINCE, 

shoots of one, two, or three years' growth. In most 
sorts, new fruit branches are tw^o years old before the 
spurs bear. The same branches and spurs continue 
fruitful, in proportion to the time which they take to 
come into bearing. After the formation of the head 
is begun, it takes from two to six years before the 
different sorts come into bearing. Standards must be 
allowed to expand in free growth, occasionally pruning 
long ramblers and irregular cross branches. In annual 
pruning, thin crowded parts ; cut aw^ay worn out 
bearers, and all decayed and cankery wood. The 
Plum may be cultivated in small gardens, trained as 
espaliers, or to a close fence, like the Apricot, &c. 
The tree is of further use than for its fruit as a dessert, 
&c.; the bark dyes yellow; the wood is used by turners ; 
and the dried fruit, or prune, is formed into electuaries 
and gentle purgatives. Prunes were originally brought 
from Damascus, whence their name. Cobbett attri- 
butes the scarcity of Plums in New York to neglect. 
In his American Gardener, paragraph 320, he asks, 
'Miow is it that we see so few Plums in America, 
when the markets are supplied with cart-loads in such 
a chilly, shady, and blighty country as England ?" 



aUINCE. 
Coign AssiER Cydonia. 

^ The Quince is of low growth, much branched, and 
generally crooked and distorted. The leaves are 
roundish or ovate, entire, above dusky green, under- 
neath whitish, on short petioles. The flowers are 
large, white, or pale red, and appear in May and June ; 
the fruit, a pome, varying in shape in the different 
varieties, globular, oblong, or ovate ; it has a peculiar 
and rather disagreeable smell, and austere taste. The 



auiNCE. 289 

fruit takes its name from being a native of the an- 
cient town of Cydon, in the Island of Crete ; some 
suppose it to be a corruption of Malus cotonea, by 
which the Latins designated the fruit. It is used as a 
marmalade for flavouring apple pies, and making an 
excellent sweetmeat ; and it has the advantage over 
many other fruits for keeping, if properly managed. 
Of the several sorts,';the following are in greatest es- 
teem : 1. The oblong, or pear Quince,with oblong ovate 
leaves, and an oblong fruit lengthened at the base. 
2. The apple Quince, with ovate leaves, and a rounder 
fruit. 3. The Portugal Quince, the fruit of which is 
more juicy and less harsh than the preceding, and 
therefore the most valuable. It is rather a shy bearer, 
but is highly esteemed, as the pulp has the property 
of assuming a fine purple tint in the course of being 
prepared as a marmalade. 4. The mild or eatable 
Quince, being less austere and astringent than the 
others. 

The Quince produces the finest fruit when planted 
in a soft moist soil, and rather shady, or at least shel- 
tered situation. It is generally propagated by layers, 
and also by cuttings, and approved sorts may be per- 
petuated by grafting. In propagating for stocks, 
nothing more is necessary than removing the lower 
shoots from the layer, so as to preserve a clear stem 
as high as the graft ; but for fruit-bearing trees, it is 
necessary to train the stem to a rod, till it has attained 
four or five feet in height, and can support itself 
upright. When planted in an orchard, the trees may 
be placed ten or twelve feet apart. The time of plant- 
ing, the mode of bearing, and all the other particulars 
of culture, are the same as for the Apple and Fear. 
The chief pruning they require, is to keep them free 
from suckers, and cut out decaying wood. 



290 

RASPBERRY, &c. 
Framboisieb, Rubus, etc. 

There are several species of the Rubus found wild 
in various parts of Asia, Europe, and America, some 
of which have upright stems, others prostrate ; the 
American Stone Bramble, and also the common Black- 
berry, Dewberry, Cloudberry, &c. are of this family. 
The Rubus idaeus, or common Raspberry, grows 
spontaneously in the province of New Brunswick, and 
in various parts of the United States, but most of the 
cultivated varieties are supposed to have originated in 
England. Loudon describes the true Raspberry as ha- 
ving stems which are suffructicose, upright, rising to 
the height of several feet, and are biennial in duration ; 
but the root is perennial, producing suckers which ripen 
and drop their leaves one year,and resume their foliage, 
produce blossom shoots, flower, and fruit, and die the 
next. The leaves are quinate-pinnate ; the flowers 
come in panicles from the extremity of the present 
year's shoots ; they are white, appear in May and 
June, and the fruit ripens about a fortnight afterwards. 

The fruit is grateful to most palates, as nature pre- 
sents it, but sugar improves the flavour ; accordingly, 
it is much esteemed w^hen made into sweetmeats, and 
for jams, tarts, and sauces. It is fragrant, sub -acid, 
and cooling ; allays heat and thirst. It is much used 
in distilling ; '• Raspberry syrup is next to the Straw- 
berry, in dissolving the tartar of the teeth ; and as, 
like that fruit, it does not undergo the acetous fermen- 
tation in the stomach, it is recommended to gouty and 
rheumatic patients." 

Nicol enumerates twenty-three species and varieties 
of the cultivated Raspberry, and twenty-one of the 
Rubus ronce, or Bramble ; of the latter, is included 
the American red and black Raspberry, and the Long 



RASP9ERRV, &C. 291 

Island and Virginian Raspberry. The English va- 
rieties are, early Small white ; Large white ; Large 
red ; most Large red Antwerp ; Large yellow Ant- 
werp ; Cane orjsmooth-stalked ; Twice-bearing white ; 
Twice-bearing red ; Smooth Cane, twice-bearing ', 
Woodward's Raspberry. Prince's Catalogue contains 
twenty-seven names, amo ngst which are, Brentford 
red ; Brentford white ; Flesh-coloured ; Barnet red, 
fine ; Pennsylvania ; Cretan red; Prolific red; Canada 
purple rose flowering, &c. The varieties can be per- 
petuated by young sucker shoots, rising plenteously 
from the root in spring and summer ; when these have 
completed one season's growth, they are proper to 
detach with roots for planting, either in the autumn 
of the same year, or the next spring, in March or 
early in April. These new plants will bear some fruit 
the first year, and furnish a succession of strong bottom 
shoots for full bearing the second season. New va- 
rieties are raised from seed, and they come into bearing 
the second year. 

Raspberry beds are in their prime about the third 
and fourth year ; and if well managed, continue in 
perfection five or six years, after which they are apt to 
decline in growth, and the fruit to become small, so 
that a successive plantation should be provided in 
time. Select new plants from vigorous stools in fuH 
perfection as to bearing. Be careful to favour the 
twice bearers with a good melloAV soil, in a sheltered 
situation, in order that the second crop may come to 
perfection. 

When Raspberries are cultivated on a large scale, 
it is best to plant them in beds by themselves, in rows 
from three to five feet apart, according to the kinds. 
In small gardens they may be planted in detached 
stools, or in single rows, in different parts of the gar- 
den, from the most sunny to the most shady aspect, 



292 STRAWBERRY. 

for early and late fruit of improved growth and flavour. 
It is requisite to cut out the dead stems early in the 
spring, and to thin and regulate the successional young 
shoots ; at the same time, the shoots retained should 
be pruned at the top, below the weak bending part, 
and some rotten dung worked in around the rooti of 
the plants. Keep them clear of weeds during the 
summer, by hoeing between the rows ; at the same 
time eradicate all superfluous suckers, but be careful 
to retain enough for stock in succeeding years. 



STRAWBERRY. 
Fraisier. Fragaria, 

This is a genus of fruit bearing herbaceous plants, of 
which there are few in the vegetable kingdom that 
can equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and ex- 
cellence. The fruit is supposed to receive its name 
from the ancient practice of laying straw between the 
rows, which keeps the ground moist and the fruit 
clean. They are natives of temperate, or cold cli- 
mates, as of Europe and America. The fruit, though 
termed a berry, is, in correct botanical language, a 
fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds. It is univer- 
sally grateful alone, or with sugar, cream, or wine, 
and has the property, so valuable for acid stomachs, 
of not undergoing the acetous fermentation. Phy- 
sicians concur in placing Strawberries in their small 
catalogue of pleasant remedies ; as having properties 
which render them, in most conditions of the animal 
frame,positively salutary; ''they dissolve the tartareous 
incrustations of the teeth ; they promote perspiration. 
Persons afflicted with the gout, have found relief from 
using them very largely ; so have patients in cases of 



STRAWBERRY. 293 

llie stone ; and Hofifman states, that he has knoAvn 
consumptive people cured by them. The bark of the 
root is astringent." 

In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and 
rich loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most 
varieties ; and from their large mass of foliage and 
flowers, they must, till the fruit is set, have copious 
supplies of water. The row culture is best calculated 
to produce fruit ; and frequent renewal insures vigo- 
rous plants, as well as large fruit. Some make beds of 
single rows, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, 
according to the sorts ; others form a bed with two 
rows eighteen inches asunder. If several beds be in- 
tended, a space of two feet may be left between each 
bed as a path ; and in the second or third season, the 
paths may be manured and dug, to admit^ of the run- 
ners taking root; by this means, a renewal may be 
made so often, and the old stools being taken away, 
leaves spaces between the beds as before. Or new 
plantations may be made every season ; as, after the 
roots are fairly established, they multiply sponta- 
neously every summer, as well by suckers from the 
parent stem, as by the numerous runners; all of 
which, rooting and forming a plant at every joint, 
require only removal to a spot where there is room for 
them to flourish. If taken ofl", and planted in rows in 
August and September, they will produce fine fruit 
the following season, and will bear in full perfection 
the second summer. A plantation of the Alpine yields 
fruit the same year that it is made. The Wood and 
the Alpine come regularly from seed, from which finer 
fruit may be produced than from offsets. The otxicr 
species are uniformly propagated by offsets, except 
the intention be to try for new varieties. The Alpine 
and Wood species may be planted in situations rather 
cool and shady, in order that they may produce their 

26 



294 STSAWBERRY. 

fruit late in the season, which is desirable. The 
Strawberry, with a little trouble of choosing a succes- 
sion of sorts, may be forced so as to be had at the 
dessert every month in the year ; though, during the 
winter months, they have not much flavour. 

Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over 
their beds in March, and set fire to it, in order to pro- 
mote a stocky growth of plants and early fruit ; others 
recommend mowing off the tops of such plants as are 
not required to fruit early, while they are in blossom, 
with a view to obtain a crop of Strawberries late in 
the season. The London Horticultural Catalogue 
contains the names of one hundred and twenty-one 
varieties of all the species ; which are classed accord- 
ing to their nature, colour, &c. Class 1. Scarlet 
Strawberries; 2. Black Strawberries ; 3. Pine Straw- 
berries ; 4. Chili Strawberries ; 5. Hautbois Straw- 
berries ; 6. Green Strawberries ; 7. Alpine and Wood 
Strawberries. To select all the most esteemed from 
this or any other extensive catalogue, is a difficult 
task ; the following description of species and va- 
rieties may serve to direct the choice : 

1. The Wood ^Stra wherry, (Fragaria vesca,) with 
oval serrated leaves ; the fruit red, white, and green, 
which is round and small. A native of Britain. 

2. The Scarlet, (Fragaria Virginiana,) with leaves 
like the preceding ; the fruit roundish and scarlet co- 
loured. A native of Virginia. Varieties, Early Scar- 
let, Wilmot's late. Common late, Wilmot's cockscomb 
scarlet. 

3. The Roseberry, (Fragaria virg. var.) an Aber- 
deen seedKng, introduced in 1810. The plants have 
few roundish leaves ; larger fruit than the scarlet, and 
are very prolific ; continues bearing till August. 

4. The Downton, (Fragaria virg. var.) The fruit 



STRAWBERHY. 295 

is large, irregular, and cockscomb-like ; leaves large ; 
plant hardy and prolific. 

6. The Carolina, (Fragaria Carolinensis,) colour 
red ; a native of America. 

6. The Musky, or Hautbois, (Fragaria elatier,) 
with oval rough javelin-edged leaves ; the fruit large, 
of a pale red colour ; a native of Britain. 

7. The Chili, (Fragaria Chiliensis,) with large, 
oval, thick, hairy leaves, and large flowers ; the fruit 
large and very firm ; a native of South America. 

8. Keen's Imperial, or New Chili, (Fragaria Chil. 
var.) raised by Mr. Keen, of Isle worth, a most excel- 
lent bearer, ripening early. The fruit is very large ; 
the flesh firm and solid, without any separable core ; 
colour scarlet. 

9. The Pine, (Fragaria grandiflora,) the leaves 
small and delicate. There are two sorts, the red and 
the white, or greenish tinted, of this most rich fla- 
voured fruit. Knevet's seedling produces large fruit 
of excellent flavour. 

10. The Alpine, or ProHfic, (Fragaria colHna,) 
which commonly lasts from June till November, and 
in mild seasons, till near Christmas ; two sorts of the 
fruit, the red and the white. Alps of Europe. 

11. The one-leaved, (Fragaria monophylla,) the 
pulp of the fruit, pink-coloured ; a native of South 
America. 

12. The Grove End scarlet Strawberry, a seedling 
raised by Wm. Atkinson, Esq. in his garden at Grove 
End, Marylebone, in the year 1820 ; an excellent bear- 
er, ripening its berries early and in succession. 

All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly 
estimated in Britain, where they are cultivated in 
great perfection. Berries have been known to weigh 
from one to two ounces, which have been grown to 



S96 WALNUT. 

the circumference of eight inches and upwards. It 
may be gratifying to the lovers of this excellent fruit, 
to be informed that some of the best kinds are attainable 
here. Messrs. Thorburn and Shaw, and Mr. Floy 
and Sons, have some of the choicest kinds in their nur- 
series ; and one of our patriotic fellow-citizens, Jesse 
Buel, Esq., of the Albany Nursery, informs us in the 
Albany Argus, of June 23, 1830, that he has grown 
the Downton (a variety of the Chili crossed by Mr. 
Knight,) two years in succession, 41 inches in circum- 
ference. He said he picked a pailful that morning of 
the Methven scarlet Strawberry, which had an ave- 
rage circumference of three inches each. Several 
measured four inches, and one four and a quarter 
inches. Sixty-three, divested of the calyx, weighed 
a pound, which is a trifle more than four to the ounce. 
Several of the choicest kinds have been lately trans- 
planted from the London Society's Garden into the 
American Nurseries. 



WALNUT. 

NoYER. Jugians. 

From the circumstance of our having an abundance 
of the fruit, from the many species of this genus of 
trees growing spontaneously around us, it is presumed 
that the culture of the Jugians regia, commonly called 
English Walnut, or Madeira Nut, has been neglected 
by many of our citizens. It is a native of Persia, and 
is cultivated in France, England, and in other parts of 
Europe, both as a fruit and timber tree. The fruit in 
England is much used in a green state for pickling, 
and also as an adulteration of soy sauce. In France, 
an oil which supplies the place of that of Almonds, is 
made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gia- 



WALNUT. 297 

tings of old and hard nuts, first peeled, into their tarts 
and other meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, 
and left there, annoy worms or moles, or macerated in 
warm water, afford a liquor which will destroy them. 
The unripe fruit is used in medicine for the purpose of 
destroying worms in the human body. Pliny says, 
'' the more Walnuts one eats, with the more ease will 
he drive worms out of the stomach.'' The timber is 
considered lighter, in proportion to its strength and 
elasticity, than, any other, and therefore commonly 
used in England for gun-stocks. It is used in cabinet 
work in most parts of Europe ; the young timber is 
allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old 
to be finest variegated for ornament. When propa- 
gated for timber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is 
the object, inarching from the branches of fruit-bearing 
trees is preferable. Budding is also practised by some ; 
the buds succeed best when taken from the base of 
the annual shoots ; ordinary sized buds from the upper 
part of such shoots generally fail. Walnut trees that 
have not been grafted or budded, may be induced to 
produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is, cutting 
out a streak of the bark around the body or main 
branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much 
fruit until fifteen or twenty years old ; it is produced 
on the extremities of the preceding year's shoots. 
The trees should stand forty or fifty feet apart, and 
they may be permitted to branch out in their natural 
order. They need but little pruning, merely to regu- 
late any casual disorderly growth, to reduce over- 
extending branches, and to prune up the low strag- 
glers. 

Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected 
or abandoned by any, I annex a description of the 
different kinds : 

Juglans catharticus, is . known under the name of 

26* 



298 ON THE choice: of 

Butternut, Oilnut, and white Walnut ; these nuts are 
used by the Indians as a medicine. 

Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large 
size ; its fruit is known to be excellent. 

Juglans olivaeformis. Pecan, or Illinois nut, is deli- 
cious. The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called 
thick shell bark, Hickory, and Springfield, and Glou- 
cester nut, are large and well-tasted. The shell bark 
Hickory, shag bark, or scaly bark Hickory, Juglans 
alba, is so called on account of its bark, which is torn 
lengthwise in long loose strips, as in J. sulcata. The 
Juglans tomentosa, the Mucker nut, white heart 
Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of the other 
kinds enumerated are worth preserving ; or cultiva- 
ting^where there is none, for its timber for mechanical 
purposes ; and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, 
is useful for brooms, &c. 



Choice of Fruit Trees in the JYnrsery, 

In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and at- 
tention are necessary ; for, to have trees that do not 
answer the expectations of the proprietor, is a great 
disappointment. As the young gardener may need 
such directions as are calculated to govern him in his 
choice, I shall endeavour to furnish them. Of what- 
ever species or variety of fruit trees are wanted, choose 
those that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy 
appearance. Whether they have been grafted or 
budded, be careful to select such as have been worked 
on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old 
crooked stunted stocks, seldom succeed w^ell. Trees 
that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining 



FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 2.99 

bark ; such as are mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled 
bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be 
rejected. Canker is discoverable in the young wood, 
and generally two or three inches above the graft or 
bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectarine, Peach, or 
Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, 
do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a 
dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, 
and only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, 
for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought to 
so handsome a form. 

In some of the preceding articles, I have shown that 
some descriptions of trees may be transplanted with 
safety, even when far advanced in growth. When 
trees of four or five years' growth, after heading down, 
that are healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing 
wood, close up to the centre of the tree, can be ob- 
tained, they will do very well ; but great care is re- 
quisite in taking up, removing, and planting such. 
Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion of 
the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or 
damage them ; for w^ant of attention to these points, 
trees often become diseased. Whenever [notwith- 
standing all due caution] any roots have been acci- 
dentally broken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking 
up the tree, let them be cut off; or if they cannot be 
well spared, let the damaged or bruised part be pared 
clean with a sharp knife, and an application of the 
following composition be spread over the wound, in 
order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise 
injure the tree. To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add 
a little bees' wax ; let them be boiled together, and 
when cold they may be used. The necessity of pru- 
ning-in and dressing mangled roots, is more particu- 
larly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as 
Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c. ; for with- 



SOO ON THE CHOICE OF 

out the application of some remedy, they gum at the 
H)ots, whicb defect, if not counteracted) very mate- 
rially injures the upper part of- the trees, which may 
become so affected as never to recover afterwards ; 
therefore, great care should be taken not to occasion 
such injury ; and when accidents happen, all due 
caution and application are necessary, to promote a 
healthy and vigorous growth. 

A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots 
nearly corresponding to the branches ; at least, it 
should have one strong root in a similar proportion to 
the bole of the tree, with a proper distribution of 
branching fibres. Healthy roots are always smooth 
and clear, the colour of them varies a little according 
to the sort of the tree, but the older the roots are, the 
darker the colour is. 

After the tree is taken up, be careful in conveying 
it to the place where it is to be planted, so that the 
roots are not chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be con- 
veyed a considerable distance, they should be well 
guarded by straw, or otherwise, in order to prevent 
injury. All damaged bruised roots should be pruned 
as soon as the tree is taken up, but if it be necessary 
to prune away any sound good roots, such pruning 
should be delayed until the time of planting. In pru- 
ning away roots, always let them be finished by a 
clear cut, and in a sloping direction, letting the slope 
be towards the under stratum, so that the wet may 
not be allowed to lodge upon the part so cut. When 
trees are planted at an advanced season, in the spring 
of the year, it will be necessary to prune the tops ; and 
if trees are removed that have been trained three or 
four years, and are not properly supplied with young 
wood, they must be cut down either wholly or par- 
tially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising 
this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always 



FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 301 

prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the 
cut, as it is very rare they will push a shoot below, 
unless there be a lead. This attention is not so par- 
ticularly required in the Pear, &c., as such will gene- 
rally push forth shoots, although no leading ones 
were left : but in all kinds, the younger the wood is, 
the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a tree 
that has been under training for one or two years, 
should only have one good strong leading shoot, and 
two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from 
it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and 
shorten the strong one, from which a handsome head 
may afterwards be formed. For further directions, as 
respects pruning and planting fruit trees, &c., the 
reader is referred to the articles from page 209 to 2*23, 
on these subjects ; and as respects any species of fruit 
in particular, directions will be found under its dis- 
tinct head. 

In order to assist the reader to make a judicious 
choice of fruit trees, I have furnished a short descrip- 
tion of such sorts as can be best recommended. Pre- 
vious to making this selection, I carefully perused 
'^ Prince's Pomological Manual," also such parts of 
"Kenrick's American Orchardist," and "Lindley's 
Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden," as were 
applicable to my subject ; besides these important 
guides, I had the select catalogues of different nursery- 
men before me, and have chosen such only as have 
been most generally recommended ; in doing this, I 
have had difficulties to contend with, the nature of 
which none but those who have duly considered the 
subject can form any idea. The facility with which 
seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness 
with which people are apt to regard their own seed- 
lings, have occasioned hundreds of names to appear in 



302 APPLfi. 

the various catalogues, which tend not a little to swell 
the large and increasing list of fruits. 

In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, 
and other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are 
given to the same variety, consequently some fruits 
appear in the different catalogues under all the varied 
names ; and the patience and labour necessarily re- 
quisite for ascertaining Avhat are worthy of cultivation, 
and what are really distinct varieties, are correspond- 
ingly great. 

The annexed list and description of the first fifty 
varieties of apples, was politely furnished by William 
R. Prince, Esq., author of the " Pomological Manual," 
" Treatise on the Vine," &c. ; in making out the 'Other 
lists, I have generally adopted the names given in 
the catalogue of Michael Floy and Sons, of the Har- 
laem Nursery, as a heading ; and have caused the 
synonymes, or names by which the same variety is 
known, or has been called, to be printed in italics, 
thus, my lists of about 300 varieties of the various 
sorts of fruit, will embrace what has been deemed by 
some, as different varieties, perhaps to the number of 
a thousand. 

APPLES. 

1. June eating, Junitlng, or Geniion. — The fruit is small, 
©fa roundish form, and yellow colour ; it ripens in July ; the 
pulp is tender and juicy ; the tree a good bearer, and of 
small, low growth. 

2. Early red Margaret, or red June eating. — The fruit is 
small and roundish ; colour red striped ;. the pulp sweet, and 
of pleasant flavour ; it ripens in July. 

3. Spring Grove. — The fruit is small, of a conical form, 
and pale green colour; it is ripe in July, and continues till 
September; the pulp is soft and juicy ; tree hardy, a great 
bearer, and the fruit chiefly used in the kitchen. 

4. Prince's Yellow Harvest, or July Pippin. — The fruit 
of a medium size, depressed ; of a pale yellow colour ; tho 
pu'p is tender, slightly acid, but of an excellent flavouri 



APPLE. 303 

5. SiNEauANoN. — The fruit of a medium size, roundish, 
but somewhat depressed; of a greenish colour, and very highly 
flavoured ; ripe in July. 

White Astracan.— The fruit is roundish, angular at the 
sides, of medium size ; the colour whitish, faintly streaked 
with red on the sun side, and covered with a white bloom ; it 
ripens in August, and the pulp is very tender, pleasant, and 
delicate. 

7. Golden Pkarmain. — The fruit large, roundish, and of a 
deep red and yellow colour: it ripens in August, and con- 
tinues till October ; pulp soft and sweet ; a hardy tree, but 
not large ; a good bearer, and the fruit much esteemed. 

8. Sugar Loaf Pippin. — The fruit of medium size, ovate, or 
oblong; of a pale yellow colour; the pulp firm, but juicy, 
and of a highly pleasant flavour; it ripens early in August. 

9. Hawthorden. — The fruit is large, rather flat, and of 
a pale green colour ; it ripens in August, and continues till 
January ; the pulp soft, juicy, and acid ; a very hardy tree ; a 
great bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes. 

10. Red and Green Sweeting. — The fruit large, of oblong 
shape; green colour, striped with red; ripens in August and 
September. The pulp is very sweet, tender, and of pleasant 
flavour. 

11. BoRSDORF.— Fruit medium size, conical form, and of a 
yellow green colour : it ripens in September, and continues 
till February ; the pulp is firm, and of an aromatic flavour ; 
tree of low growth, a middling bearer, but an excellent fruit 
for the table. 

12. Fall Pippin. — The fruit is very large, of a roundish 
shape; yellow colour; the pulp very tender, and of good 
flavour; ripens in September and October. 

13. Old Golden Pippin. — The fruit small, roundish, and of 
a gold yellow colour; it ripens in September and October; 
flesh firm and sweet, fit both for the dessert and kitchen. 

14. Pumpkin Sweeting. — Fruit large, of pale yellow colour; 
pulp very sweet and pleasant; ripens in October and No-> 
vember. 

16. Niwtown Spitzenburg. — The fruit of medium size, 
roundish and depressed; colour of a pale yellowish ground, 
greenish where shaded, but red next the sun ; pulp very 
sweet, rich and pleasant ; ripens in October and November. 

17. — Wood's Transparent. — Fruit small and flat, of 
a green and yellow colour ; ripens in October, and continues 
till February ; flesh firm and juicy ; tree hardy, a great bearer, 
and excellent fruit. 



304 APPLE. 

18 —Sweet Bough. — Fruit large, ovate, of pale yellow co- 
lour ; tender, sweet, and pleasant in flavour ; ripens in August. 

19. — RiBSTONE Pippin. — Fruit of medium size, roundish, 
and partially depressed ; of a pale yellow colour, tinged with 
red ; pulp slightly acid, and of fine flavour; ripens in Novem- 
ber, and continues till April. ♦ 

20. Rhode Island Greening. — Fruit large and depressed, of 
a greenish colour; slightly acid, and of fine flavour ; ripens 
in November, and continues till April. 

21. — Holland Pippin. — Fruit medium size, ovate form, and 
of a gold and green colour; it ripens in October, and con- 
tinues till February ; flesh crisp and firm ; tree hardy and 
large ; a good bearer, and much esteemed fruit. 

22. Seek no Further. — Fruit of medium size, depressed j 
of a whitish colour, flesh very tender, and of pleasant flavour 5 
ripens in November, and continues till March. 

23. Esorus Spitzenburg. — Fruit large and oval ; of red 
colour ; flesh yellowish ; slightly acid, and of the finest fla- 
vour ; ripens in October, and continues till February. 

24. Pennock Red Winter. — Fruit very large and com- 
pressed; of deep red colour ; flesh tender, juicy, and of sweet 
and pleasant flavour ; ripens in November. 

25. Flushing Spitzenburg. — Fruit, large, roundish, some- 
what compressed ; red striped colour, and of sweet and plea, 
sant flavour ; ripens in November, and continues till March. 

26. Red Winter Sweeting. — Fruit large and compres- 
sed ; of reddish colour; and of sweet and delicious flavour; 
ripens in November, and continues till March. 

27. Green Nev;town Pippin. — Fruit medium size, com. 
pressed ; of pale green colour ; flesh very high flavoured ; 
ripens in December, and keeps till June, 

28. Bringewood Pippin. — Fruit small, nearly globular ; 
colour bright yellow tinged with red, pulp exceedmg sweet, 
and highly perfumed. 

29. Downton Pippin. — Fruit of moderate size, cylindrical, 
flattened at the ends ; of yellow colour, with numerous specks; 
flesh firm, rich and subacid ; ripens in October and November. 

30. EnglIsh Nonpareil. — Fruit of medium size, and flat; 
of a greenish yellow colour, with a slight russet ; flesh firm, 
rich and aromatic ; ripens in November, and continues till 
May. 

31. Fenouillet Gris. — Fruit rather small, roundish, ovate, 
of a yellowish gray colour, with a slight lusset ; pulp tender, 



APPLE. 305 

saccharine, and highly flavoured; ripens in November, and 
continues good till February. 

32. Red Winter Calville. — Fruit, large and oblong, of a 
pale red colour, deeper next the sun ; flesh tender, and of 
pleasant flavour ; ripens in November. 

33. Dredges' Beauty of Wilts. — Fruit medium size and 
oval form, of a bright yellow, spotted with red ; it ripens in 
October, and lasts till March ; pulp firm and juicy ; a great 
bearer, and the fruit good for all kitchen purposes. 

34. Ortley Pippin. — Fruit of large size, pale yellow co- 
lour, often a tinge of red on the sunny side ; flesh firm and 
high flavoured ; ripens in November, and lasts till April. 

35. Lemon Pippin. — Fruit of medium size, oval shape ; 
colour yellowish green ; flesh firm, pleasant, but not high 
flavoured ; ripens in October, and lasts till March. 

36. Blenheim Pippin.— Fruit large, roundish, of a yellowish 
colour, tinged with red next the sun ; pulp sweet and high 
flavoured ; ripe in November, and keeps till March. 

37. Gravenstein\ — Fruit rather large and compressed ; of 
a yellowish green colour, striped with red, and high flavour- 
ed ; ripens in October, and lasts till January. 

38. Alexander. — Fruit very large, somewhat cordate, 
smallest at the crown ; of a greenish yellow colour, striped 
or marbled with red ; pulp, tender, sweet, rich and aromatic ; 
ripens in October, and lasts till February. Though a large, 
hardy tree, it is a medium bearer, but a magnificent fruit. 

39. Franklin Golden Pippin. — Fruit a medium size, coni- 
cal, of a golden yellow colour, with gray and dark-coloured 
specks; it ripens in November, and continues till March; 
flesh firm, and highly aromatic ; tree rather slender, and mid- 
dling bearer, but an excellent fruit. 

40. Rambour Franc. — Fruit large and compressed ; of pale 
yellow colour, tinged with red ; flesh tender, with a slight 
acidity; ripens in October and November. 

41. Newark King. — Fruit large, oval shape; colour red, 
striped with yellow ; the pulp of pleasant flavour ; ripens in 
October, and lasts till January. 

42. Priestly. — Fruit large, oblong; of a dull red colour, 
faintly striped; the flesh of pleasant and aromatic flavour; 
ripens in December, and continues till April. 

43. Hughes' Golden Pippin. — Fruit small, round, but par- 
tially depressed ; of yellow colour, with numerous specks ; 
flesh firm, juicy, rich, pungent, and agreeable ; ripens in Oc- 
tober, and lasts till January. 

27 



306 APPLE. 

44. Beauty of Kent. — Fruit rather large, and of irregular 
shape ; of a yellowish green colour, mottled with red ; flesh 
firm and juicy, with a pleasant acid flavour ; ripens in Octo- 
ber» and continues till January. 

45. Monstrous Pippin. — Fruit of enormous size, often 
weighing twenty-five ounces or more; of a pale lemon co- 
lour ; flesh tender, and of sprightly flavour, excellent for 
cooking ; ripens in October, and continues fit for use till 
January. 

46. Long Island Russet. — Fruit of medium size, depres- 
sed ; 'russetty colour, and of pleasant flavour ; ripens by No- 
vember, and continues till March. 

47. Winter Sweet Peakmain. — Fruit small, roundish ; of 
a dull red colour, with green stripes ; pulp very sweet, and of 
peculiar flavour ; ripens in November, and keeps till March. 

48. Lady Apple, or Pomme d'^Apis. — Fruit small, flat ; of 
pale yellow colour, tinged with a deep red on the side ; flesh 
crisp, sprightly and pleasant ; ripens in November, and con- 
tinues till April. 

49. Pomme Grise. — Fruit rather large, somewhat depres- 
sed ; russetty ; of pleasant flavour ; ripens in November, and 
lasts till March. 

50. Norfolk Beaufin. — Fruit middling size, flattish, and a 
deep red and pale green colour; it ripens in November and 
December, and lasts till August ; flesh firm and savoury ; tree 
hardy and upright, and a good bearer ; fruit excellent for use 
in the kitchen. 

51. "EiKViTJY CviOVTon ^or Irish Peach Apple.— An Irish apple, 
of the middle size and flattish shape; of an olive green 
colour, much variegated with red ; has a rich saccharine fla- 
vour ; ripens in August ; it is much esteemed for the dessert, 
and excellent also a sauce apple. The tree grows well, and 
is not apt to canker. 

62. Dowell's Pippin, — In size and form this apple resem- 
bles the Ribstone Pippin, but is more pointed at the head, 
and the eye is sunk in a more 'confined and deeper cavity; 
the skin is green, nearly covered with a clear thin russet, and 
a slight tinge of brownish red on the sunny side ; an excellent 
dessert apple from October to Christmas. 

53. Bai^celona Pearmain, Glace Rouge, Kleiner Casseler 
Reinetie, Reinetle Rouge, Reinette Rousse, Reinelte des Carmes. 
— Fruit of medium size, oval, not angular; colour, brownish 
yellow in the shade, but deep red next the sun ; fle<sh firm, 
yellowish, with a rich aromatic, but slightly agreeable acid. 



APPLE, 



307 



A dessert apple from November till February. Tree a good 
bearer. 

54. Bell Flower. — A very large and beautiful apple, its 
colour bright yellow, with an occasional blush on the SHimy 
side ; its form oblong ; the flesh tender, juicy, rich, and finely 
flavoured, and is alike excellent for the dessert or for cooking. 
It ripens early in November, and will keep all the winter. 

55. Court Pendu, Capendu, Court Pendu Plat, GarnorCs 
Apple.— hri estimable dessert applo, of nonpareil size [small]; 
very flat in shape, the colour yellow, a good deal covered 
with full red; it is of a high saccharine flavour and of close 
consistence; the fruit keeps till February or March, The 
tree grows upright, and bears well. 

56. Malcarlk, Charles Apple, Mela Carle.— A. far-famed 
fruit. In the climate of Italy, this is supposed to be the best 
apple in the world. It is cultivated extensively in the terri- 
tories of Genoa, as an article of export and commerce to 
Nice, Barcelona, Cadiz, and Marseilles. The fruit is rather 
large, its form inclining to globular. Its beautiful waxen skin 
is a little marbled with a very faint green near the eye ; its 
colour in the shade is a pale yellow, tinged with flaming 
crimson next the sun ; the flesh is white, tender, delicate, 
sweet, with the fragrant perfume of roses. It ripens in Sep- 
tember, and will keep till spring. 

57. Stroat, Strnat. — Is an autumn fruit; it is stated to be 
tender, juicy, well flavoured ; and, according to Mr. Buel, in 
excellence it is not by surpassed by any fruit in its season ; a 
native. 

58. SwAAR Aplle.— It is a highly celebrated winter table 
fruit in some parts of New York and New Jersey ; it is a large 
green apple of great and uncommon flavour and richness; 
highly deserving cultivation in every collection of fine fruits. 

59. Golden Harvey, Brandy Jlpple. — A dessert apple, not 
larger than the Golden Pippin ; colour light yellow, with a 
flush of red, and embroidered with a roughish russet. It is 
called Brandy Apple from the superior specific strength of its 
juice ; is of remarkably close texture, very rich in flavour, and 
will keep till April or May. 

60. SiBERLAN Harvey.— This fruit, which was raised by Mr. 
Knight from the Siberian Crab and Golden Harvey, is stated 
to be a small globular fruit, of a bright gold colour, stained 
with deep red on the side next the sun ; the fruit growing 
in clusters on slender branches; the juice exceeding sweet ; 
ripe in October. Specific gravity of its juice, 1091. 

61. Pine, Apple Russbt, Hardingham's RwseL — This de- 



308 APRICOT. 

licious apple is above the middle size ; reundish ovate \ skin 
pale greenish yellow, with white specks, and partially rus- 
setty; juice abundant; flesh of a spicy, aromatic, pine-apple 
flavour, hence its name ; ripe in September. 

62. Harrison. — This fruit is much celebrated in New 
Jersey as a cider apple ; it is somewhat ovate, below the 
middle size ; the skin is yellow, with black spots ; flesh yel- 
low, firm, rich, and sprightly. Ten bushels will make a barrel 
of exquisite cider. 

63. Campfield, or Newark Sweeting. — This apple is 
next in reputation, as a cider fruit, to the Harrison, and is 
often mixed with that apple in equal proportions when ground ; 
it is of the middle size, skin smooth, of red and yellow colour; 
the flesh is white, firm, sweet, and rich. 

64. Granniwinkle. — Fruit of moderate size, rather ob. 
long ; the skin a dark red, somewhat rough ; flesh yellow, 
sweet, and rich. It is commonly mixed with the Harrison 
for making cider of a superior quality ; ripe in November. 

65. Hewe's Virginia Crab. — From this fruit is obtained 
the celebrated Crab Cider ; it is of small size, nearly round ; 
skin of a dull red, streaked with greenish yellow ; the flesh is 
fibrous and astringent ; juice acid and austere. 

APRICOT. 

1. Red Masculine, Abricot Precnc.c, Ahricot Hafif Musque, 
Early Masculine. — This is an old variety, the fruit of which 
is small, of a roundish form, and greenish red colour ; the 
pulp is tender; the tree a good bearer, and the fruit esteemed 
for its earliness and tart taste ; ripens in July. 

2. Hemskirke. — Fruit middle sized, roundish, slightly 
compressed ; of a bright yellov/ colour ; flesh tender, juicy, 
vfiWx a particularly rich, delicate flavour, resembling that of 
the Green Gage Plum ; ripe in July. 

3. MuscH-MuscH. — Fruit round, of a deep yellow colour; 
remarkable for the transparency of its pulp, through which 
the stone is visible; the flesh is very fine and agreeable; 
ripens in July. 

4. Early Orange, Royal George, Royal Orange. — The 
fruit of a medium size, of a deep yellow colour, spotted with 
red or dark purple next the sun ; flesh deep orange, succulent 
and well flavoured ; not perfectly a freestone ; ripens early in 
August. 

5. Breda, Ahricot de Hollande, Amande Aveline, Royal 
Persian, — Fruit medium size, of a round form, and deep 
yellow colour; the pulp is soft and juicy; the tree a great 



CHERRY. 309 

bearer, and the fruit, which ripens early in August, is in 
great esteem, 

6. Brussels.— Highly esteemed for its productiveness ; fruit 
medium size, inclining to an oval form ; of a red colour next 
the sun, covered with numerous dark spots ; the flesh is of a 
greenish yellow colour, of a brisk flavour, and not liable ta 
become mealy ; ripens in August. 

7. MooRPARK, Hanson's^ TempWs^ Dunmore-s Breda. — The 
tree is of vigorous growth, and extraordinarily productive ; 
the fruit is very large, of a bright gold colour, or orange, with 
dark spots next the sun ; flesh orange colour, melting and 
excellent ; ripens early in September. 

Purple, Alexandrian Abricot, Abricot Angoumois^ Abricot 
Violet, Black Apricot. — A small, globular, downy fruit, a 
little oblong ; of a pale red colour, becoming deep red or 
purple next the sun ; flesh pale red, but orange next the 
stone ; a little acid, but good ; ripens in August. 

9. Turkey, Large Turkey — A superior apricot; fruit of a 
medium size, deep yellow colour, with red blotches next the 
sun; form globular ; flesh firm, juicy, rich and excellent ; ripe 
by the end of July. 

10. Peach ApRicoT,A6rico/ Peche, Abricot de Nancy Jmpe^nal 
Ansons. — This is a first-rate fruit ; form variable, generally 
flattened ; skin slightly downy ; fawn colour next the sun, 
tinged with reddish spots or points ; pulp yellow, melting, 
juice abundant, high flavoured and excellent ; ripens early in 
August. 

11. Blotched Leaved Roman, Blotched Leaved Turkey^ 
Variegated Turkey, Abricot Macule. — Tree vigorous and pro- 
ductive ; fruit large size and round form ; of a deep yellow 
colour, but the pulp not very juicy ; ripens early in August. 

12. Royal, Abricot Royale. — This fruit is next in size to 
the Moorpark, rather oval, compressed ; of dull yellow co- 
lour, slightly red ; flesh pale^orange, firm, juicy, sweet, and 
high flavoured, with a slight acid ; ripens early in August. 

CHERRY. 

The first fourteen varieties are round fruit, the last sixteen 
heart-shaped. 

1. Early May, Small Early May. — This variety is well 
calculated to be trained in espalier form, being naturally 
dwarfish. The fruit, which is of small size, is ripe before any 
other ; its taste acid, but pleasant, and the skin of a red 
colour. 

2. May Duke. — Fruit medium size, round, and a rod co- 

27* 



310 CHERRV. 

lour ; it ripens in the beginning of June, and the flesh is of a 
soft and an agreeable acid ; the tree a good bearer, and the 
fruit excellent. 

3. Late Duke, June Duke. — A cherry of large size ; flesh 
very rich ; it ripens in July, and lasts long on the tree, im- 
proving in its flavour. The tree is of vigorous growth, and 
an abundant bearer. 

4. Ambree, Cerise Ambree. — A large cherry with a round 
head, flattened at the opposite end ; marbled with red and 
yellow in the shade, bright red next the sun ; flesh white, 
somewhat transparent, very juicy, sweet, and excellent, ripe 
in June and July. 

5. Arch Duke, Grlotte de Portugal^ Portugal Duke. — A 
large globular red cherry ; like the May Duke, it grows in 
clusters, but the tree grows more vigorous than that variety; 
an excellent cberry, and a great bearer ; ripe in July. 

6. Belle de Choisy, Cerise de la Palembree, Cerise Dou- 
cette. — A middle-sized, roundish fruit, growing in pairs on a 
forked stalk ; skin transparent, red, mottled with amber ; 
flesh amber coloured, tender and sweet. 

7. Carnation, Late Spanish., Wax Carnation. — This fruit, 
which derives its title from its colour, is of a large size; the 
skin is a yellowish white, beautifully mottled with red; the 
flesh yellow, rather firm, and of a pleasant taste, but less 
sweet than many other varieties ; the juice is sprightly, and of 
a pale colour. This cherry ripens in July, and is held in 
high esteem for preserves- 

8. Holman's Duke. — The branches of this tree are more 
spreading than the May Duke; the fruit is larger, of equally 
fine flavour, and ripens about two or three weeks later. 

9. Prince's Duke. — This cherry was raised in the Flushing 
Nursery, from the seed of a Carnation Cherry. The fruit is 
of a red colour, shaped like that of its parent, and much 
compressed ; very rich and luscious when at perfect matu- 
rity, which is in July. 

10. Kentish, Cerisier de Montmorency., Long Stem Mont- 
morency. — Fruit of a bright red colour ; ripens in July, and 
has an agreeable acid flavour ; tree a great bearer, and fruit 
much esteemed when full ripe; the skin is then of a dark 
red colour. 

Short Stem Montmorency, Montmorency a gros fruit, 
Gros Gobet, Gobet a Courie Queue, Cerise de Vilaine, Cerisier 
Coulard — This tree produces abundance of flowers, but the 
French complain that the fruit does not set well ; it is there- 



CHERRY. 311 

fore found only in the gardens of Ihose who prefer the fine 
quality to the quantity of fruit. The cherry is large, flat- 
tened at both ends ; the skin is of a brilliant red, and not 
very dark ; the flesh is yellowish white, slightly acid, and 
highly pleasant. This fruit is considered by some as one of 
the best cultivated ; it ripens in July. 

l2.iVIoRELLO, Milan, Cerise du Nord, English Morello. — The 
fruit medium sized, round ; nearly black when at maturity ; 
tree a great bearer ; the fruit will keep late, and is excellent 
for preserving and for brandy. 

13. Plumstone Morello. — A tree of moderate size, of the 
Duke or Kentish species ; a very large, dark, round cherry, 
nearly black ; of a rich acid flavour. The stone is very large, 
and resembles thatofaplura; a native of Virginia, intro- 
duced by William Prince, Esq. of the Linnsean Botanic Gar- 
den, Flushing. 

14. Waterloo. — A large, round, dark fruit, inclining to 
black at maturity ; the flesh is firm and of an excellent fla- 
vour; raised by a daughter of Mr. Knight, and so named 
from its perfecting ils fruit soon after the battle of Waterloo. 
The tree is of strong but irregular growth. 

15. Gascoign's Bleeding Heart. — Fruit large, oblong, or 
heart-shaped, of a dark red colour ; its flesh pretty firm, of a 
pleasant and fine flavour ; ripe in June. 

16. Bigarreaux, Graffion, Turkey Bigarreau, White Ox 
Heart. — Very large, obtuse, heart-shaped, yellowish amber 
colour, but fine red next the sun ; flesh firm, white, sweet, and 
well flavoured ; a beautiful and excellent fruit, not very pro- 
ductive; ripe in June and July. 

Black Eagle. — A cherry of globular form, and middle 
size ; dark purple, or nearly black; flesh very tender, rich, 
and of excellent flavour, and ripens early. The tree grows 
strong and very upright. 

18. Black Heart, Guignier a Fruit Noir. — Fruit rather 
large, heart-shaped ; dark purple, approaching to black at 
maturity ; flesh dark red, tender, of excellent flavour ; ripe 
early in July; tree a good bearer. 

19. Black Tartarian, Blaik Circassian, Erasers Black 
Tartarian, Black Russian, Ronald's Large Black Heart, Fra- 
ser''s Black Heart. — A very large, heart-shaped fruit, of a 
most superior quality; colour dark shining purple, or black ; 
flesh firm, dark red or purple, sweet, and of most excellent 
flavour. The tree and fruit combine an assemblage of good 
qualities; an elegant, very rapid growing tree, of great pro- 



312 CHERRY. 

ductiveness ; very large and beautiful fruit, and excellent 
quality, ripening in June and July. 

20. White Tartarian, White Transparent Crimea, Erasers 
White. — A beautiful cherry, pale yellow, approaching to an 
amber next the sun ; a much admired fruit, of excellent fla- 
vour ; a good bearer, ripening early in July. This tree grows 
vigorous and upright ; it is thus readily distinguished from 
another variety, bearing the same title. 

21. Black Carone, Couronne, Coroun. — This is a large and 
improved variety of the Black Mazzard, which it resembles 
in form, colour, and general properties; the fruit ripens in 
July ; the tree yields plentiful crops. 

22. HEREFORDsniRE Black, Lule Black Heart — Large, 
black, and heart-shaped ; a most excellent cherry, and a 
great bearer ; and more valuable for ripening late, when most 
varieties are gone. 

23. Elkhorn, Black Ox Heart. — A large cherry, ripening 
between the Black Heart and its latest varieties ; its flesh 
remarkably hard, and very peculiar; and though not highly 
flavoured, it is supposed by some, that from its solid consist, 
ence, it may be profitably cultivated, to be transported from 
a distance to market. 

24. Elton. — This tree is very vigorous and productive ; the 
fruit is pretty large, heart-shaped ; pale glossy yellow in the 
shade, but marbled with bright red next the snn ; flesh firm, 
sweet and rich ; ripens earl}' in July. 

25. Florence — Large, heart-shaped, depressed; of a yel- 
low amber colour, marbled with bright red in the shade ; 
bright red next the sun ; tolerably firm, juicy, rich, and 
sweet ; ripe end of June. 

26. Harrison's Heart, Red Ox Heart.— A large, heart- 
shaped cherry, yellowish or amber co'our, but light red next 
the sun; flesh tender and highly flavoured; ripens early in 
July. 

27. Knight's Early Black — Blossoms early; fruit re- 
sembles the Waterloo ; of a rich dark hue ; its flesh is firm 
and juicy ; it is abundantly sweet, and ripens by the middle 
of June. 

98. Remington White Heart. — A moderate sized cherry, 
of moderate flavour ; chiefly valuable for its very late matu- 
rity ; said to have originated in Rhode Island. 

29. White Heart. — This cherry ripens immediately after 
the May Duke; the fruit is of jrtn^:;;^; size, oblong, and 
heart-shaped ; the skin is o: a fine appearance, being a yel- 



NECTARINE. 313 

lowish white on the one side, and tinged with pale red next 
the sun ; the flesh is rather firm, of pleasant flavour, accom. 
panied by honied sweetness; but the tree bears very in- 
diflerently. 

30. DowNTON. — A new variety raised by Mr. Knight. Fruit 
rather round, inclining to heart-shape ; of a pale yellow 
colour, sprinkled with minute rod spots, and large patches of 
dull red or maroon; flesh pale amber colour, tender and 
juicy, very sweet and high flavoured ; ripens early in July, 

NECTARINE. 

The first thirteen varieties are freestones, the last seven 
are pavies, or clingstones. 

1. FAiRmiT.n's Eaut.v. — Fruit very early, but small ; of glo- 
bular shape; yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the sun ; 
flesh yellow, not juicy, but well flavoured ; ripens early in 
August. 

2. Miller's Elruge. — One of the very best and most 
high flavoured nectarines ; fruit medium size, of a dark red 
and pale yellow colour ; pulp melting, vury juicy, rich and 
high flavoured; ripens middle of August. 

3. Early Violet, Violelte Hative^ Petite Violette Halite, 
Violet, Lord Selsey^s Elruge, Large Scarlet. — Fruit variable 
in size, generally medium ; pale yellowish green, but darkish 
purple red next the sun ; flesh melting, juicy, rich and excel- 
lent ; ripe in August. 

4. Pitmaston's Orangs. — A good sized globular or heart- 
shaped fruit, of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or 
purple next the sun ; flesh golden yellow, but red next the 
stone from which it separates ; it is melting, juicy, saccharine 
and high flavoured ; ripe middle and end of August. 

5. Vermash, True Vermash. — This fruit is of rather small 
size, and of round form, tapering towards the eye; the skin 
is a very deep red colour next the sun, and of greenish hue 
on the other side ; pulp rich, melting and juicy. The fruit 
is at maturity in August. 

6. Aromatic. — A middle sized, rather globular fruit, deep 
red or brown next the sun ; flesh pale straw, but red at the 
stone ; juice of a rich vinous flavour ; ripe by the end of 
August. 

7. White Nectarine, Old White, Brugnon Blanc Mus. 
quee, Nectarine Blanche de Weitsen/eld. — Fruit middle sized, 
roundish ; colour very pale yellowish green, becoming almo&t 



314 NECTARINE. 

vfhite in the shade, and slightly tinged with red next the 
sun; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine vinous flavour; 
ripens early in September. 

8. Common Elruge. — Fruit large, roundish, inclining to 
oval ; skin deep violet or blood colour when exposed, with 
minute brownish specks, paler in the shade; flesh whitish, 
melting, very juicy, rich and high flavoured; a much es- 
teemed fruit, ripening early. 

9. Scarlet.— Fruit medium size, of a beautiful scarlet 
colour next the sun, and pale red on the shaded side ; the 
flesh separates from the stone, and is at maturity in August. 

10. Temples. — A fruit below medium size, rather oblong | 
pale red next the sun ; flesh white ; it shrivels when ripe » 
very juicy, rich, and of fine flavour, and is at maturity in 
September, 

11. Peterborough, Late Green. — The fruit is of medium 
size, round form, and always of a green colour ; the part next 
the sun being of the deepest green, and the other of a paler 
hue ; the flesh is firm and of pleasant flavour ; and the fruit 
lasts till October. 

12. MuRRY.^-Fruit medium size, dingy red and pale green 
colour, and has a rich juicy flavour, A much esteemed fruit. 

13. White, or Flanders Nectarine, New White, Emmer- 
son's JVew White. — A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, 
slightly tinged with red next the sun ; flesh tender and juicy, 
with a fine vinous flavour. The Pumological Magazine de- 
scribes this as a clingstone ; Lindley as a freestone. 

14. Early Newington, Lucomhe's Seedling. — Fruit large, 
ripens in August, and is of a deep red colour; pulp super-ex- 
cellent ; considered by some as the best of all nectarines. 

15. Italian, Brugnon or Italian. — A large globular pale 
yellow fruit, marbled with dark red next the sun ; flesh firm, 
yellow, red at the stone, juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in 
August. 

16. Brugnon Violet MusauE, Brugnon Musque. — Fruit 
large, of a deep red and yellow colour; skin \ery smooth ; 
flesh yellow, but red at the stone ; saccharine, vinous, 
musky ; at maturity in September. 

17. Golden. — Fruit medium size, of the finest orange 
colour, delicately and beautifully mottled with red next the 
sun, which gives to it a clear waxen appearance ; flesh firm, 
yellow, pal© red at the stone, and has a poignant, rich fla- 
vour; ripens in September. 



PEACH, 315 

18. Red Roman, Roman Red. — A very excellent nectarine, 
of large size ; the skin dark red next to the sun, and of a 
yellowish hue on the other side ; flesh yellowish, but red 
next the stone ; it abounds with rich juice when fully ripe, 
which is about the middle of September. 

19. Scarlet Newington, Lale Newington, Old JYewington. 
— This variety is much esteemed ; the fruit large, of a beau- 
tiful red colour next the sun, and a fine yellow on the other 
side ; its quality is excellent, being rich and juicy ; ripe by 
the middle of September. 

20. Tawny Newington.— Fruit largish, somewhat ovate ; 
tawny coloured, marbled with dull red or orange next the 
sun ; flesh pale yellow, but red at the stone ; very juicy, 
sugary, and of the most delicious flavour ; ripens in Sep- 
tember. 

PEACH. 

The first forty varieties are freestones, the last fourteen 
pavies or clingstones. 

1. White Nutmeg, Avant Peche Blanche. — Fruit small, 
round, and of white colour ; juice sugary and musky ; es- 
teemed for being the first sort ripe. — .Tuly. 

2. Early Orange, Yellow rare ripe, Yellow Malacotan. — 
Fruit under a medium size, inclining to the oval shape, apex 
full, with a small tip ; skin greenish yellow ; flesh a fine yel- 
low, juice rich and sweet, but not plentiful. There are seve- 
ral varieties under the same name, some of which are inferior 
to the true Orange Peach. 

3. Gr^en Nutmeg, Early Anne. This variety is said (o 
have originated in Berkshire, England. The fruit is of 
round form ; colour yellowish green, tinged with red ; pulp 
melting, juicy, and of very pleasant flavour ; the tree is a 
good bearer, and the fruit ripens early in August. Murray's 
Early Anne is a variety raised from the seed of this. 

4. Neil's Early Purple, Early Purple of Miller^ JohnsorVs 
Purple Avant, Padlei/s Early Purple, Veritable Pourpree Hor- 
live, Peche du Vin. — One of the most beautiful of peaches ; 
of largish size, and of a fine deep red and purplish colour; it 
ripens in the middle of August ; flesh melting, juicy, with a 
rich vinous flavour ; an excellent fruit. 

5. Montaubon. Fruit round, of medium size ; colour 

dark red, approaching to purple next the sun, but of yellow- 
ish green on the other side ; flesh tender, melting, rich, juicy, 
and of pleasant flavour ; ripens in August. 



316 PEACH. 

6. Sweet Water, Early Sweet Water. — This variety is said 
to have originated at Flushing ; its form is round, and its 
colour whitish green at maturity, which is early in August ; 
the flesh is very tender, melting, rich and juiey. 

7. Brevoort's Seedling Melter. — A superior peach, raised 
by Henry Brevoort, Esq., of New-York ; skin of a dingy white 
colour, tinged with red ; flesh white, firm, rich, and sugary ; 
ripe by the middle of August. 

8. Petite Mignonne, Double de Troyes, Peche de Troyes, 
Mignonette. — The tree is of feeble growth, but productive ; 
skin downy, fine, pale yellow, but red next the sum ; flesh 
melting, juice abundant, and of fine flavour ; ripens in 
August. 

9. Emperor of Russia, Serrated Leaf, or Unique, — The 
tree is of medium vigour, but the young wood is said to be 
subject to mildew ; the fruit, which ripens early in August, is 
deeply cleft, one half of it projecting considerably beyond the 
other; the flavour of the flesh is very good. This sort origi- 
nated in New.Jersey twenty years ago, and all the stones of 
this fruit'are said to produce plants with jagged leaves. 

10. Washington Peach. — A first-rate peach ; colour a pale 
yellow in the shade, but dark red next the sun ; flesh very 
juicy and delicious ; ripens towards the end of August. 

11. Madeleine de Courson, Madeleine Rouge, Rouge Pay- 
sanne, Red Magdalen of Miller. — An excellent fruit, of large 
size, and fine red colour ; ripens at the end of August ; flesh 
firm, white, very red at the stone ; sugary and very rich. 

12. Double Montagne. — A beautiful and excellent peachi 
of middle size ; skin greenish white, but soft red, marbled 
with a deeper red next the sun ; flesh melting ; juice plentiful 
and highly flavoured ; ripe in August. 

13. SpraNG Grove. — A medium sized fruit; of a globular 
form ; greenish yellow, but bright crimson next the sun ; pulp 
juicy, rich, and high flavoured ; ripens in August. 

14. White Magdalen. — Fruit rather large and round, 
slightly striped with red, and of a yellowish white colour; it 
ripens in August; flesh white, fine, melting, and pretty high 
flavoured. 

15. Belle Chevereuse. — Fruit medium size, oblong form, 
and of a red and yellow colour ; ripen.s in the end of August ; 
the pulp is rich, juicy, and sugary ; tree a good bearer, and 
the fruit highly esteemed. 

16. Malta, Peche Malte, Belle dc Paris, Malie de Norman- 
die. — Fruit above the medium size ; pale yellowish gr«en, 



PEACH. 317 

marbled with purplish red ; flesh yellowish, juicy, rich, vi- 
nous, and of superior flavour ; ripens at the end of August. 

17. Acton Scot. — Fruit below the medium size ; colour 
pale yellow, but bright red, and marbled next the sun ; flesh 
melting, juicy, and pretty good. 

18. Royal Kensington.— Fruit of a high red and yel. 
low colour ; flesh rich and juicy when at maturity, which is 
early in September ; a first-rate peach. 

19. Noblesse.— The tree is of vigorous growth, and very 
productive ; fruit large, and of a pale red colour ; pulp juicy, 
rich and melting, when at maturity, which is early in Sept. 

20. Van Zandt's Superb, Waxen Rareripe.^This variety 
originated with Mr. Van Zandt, of Flushing ; its skin is 
smooth, somewhat mottled, and of a beautiful waxen ap- 
pearance ; flesh melting, and of excellent flavour. 

21. Grosse Mignonne, Veloutee de Merlet, Grimwood's 
Royal George^ Large French Mignonne, Vineuse. — One of the 
most beautiful and delicious varieties in cultivation. The 
fruit is large, of a beautiful red or rose colour, and greenish 
yellow ; pulp tender, juicy and high flavoured when in per- 
fection, which is early in September. 

22. Bellegarde, Galande, Violet te Haiive, Noire de Man- 
treuil. — The tree is vigorous and productive ; fruit medium 
size, much coloured, and almost black ; flesh firm, sacchr.rine 
and juicy; a first-rate fruit. 

23. George the Fourth.— An excellent peaeh, of medium 
size and globular shape ; of pale yellow colour in the shade, 
and dark red next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, but red at the 
stone from which it separates; a fruit of very superior fla- 
vour when at maturity, which is early in September; it ori- 
ginated in the garden of Mr. Gill, Broad street, New York. 

24. Double Swalsii. — Fruit middle sized, ovate ; skin pale 
yellow, but bright deep red next the sun ; flesh soft, melting 
and juicy; an excellent peach; ripe early in September. 

25. Belle de Vitry,— A large fruit, of fine red colour next 
the sun, on the opposite side a yellowish white ; form globu- 
lar ; flesh white, stained with red at the stone ; melting, 
juicy, sweet, vinous and excellent; ripe in September. 

26. Bourdine, Bour.Hn Narbonne. — The fruit is large, 
round, sometimes a point at its summit ; de?p red next the 
sun; flesh melting, sweet and vinous; in perfection by the 
middle of September ; a first rate peach. 

27. Rambouillet, iZam&wZ/ion. — This fruit is of rather large 
size and oval form, with a deep sature ; it is of a fine red 

28 



318 PEACH. 

next Uie sun, and yellowish on the shaded side ; flesh bright 
yellow, melting, with rich and vinous juice ; it ripens in 
September. 

28. Smooth Leaved Royal George. — This is considered 
by Lindley as a superior variety : fruit above the middle 
size, globular, depressed ; skin yellowish white, but of a 
beautiful red or carmine colour next the sun ; flesh melting ; 
juice plentiful, and of a high vinous flavour ; ripening in 
September. 

29. RosANNA, Alberge Jaune, Peche Jaune Rosanne, St. 
Laurent Jaune, Yellow Alberge^ Petite Rousanne. — A middle 
sized, globular fruit, of a yellow colour, but next the sun deep 
red at maturity ; a deep sature extends from summit to base ; 
flesh melting, juicy, rich, sweet, vinous and excellent ; at 
perfection in September. 

30. Royal George Migkonne. — A superior fruit, of glo- 
bular form ; its colour yellow and deep red ; flesh melting, 
juicy, saccharine, vinous, and most excellent ; ripe in Sep- 
tember. 

31. — White Blossom, Willow Peach, While Blossomed In- 
comparable. — This variety originated on Long Island ; the 
fruit is perfectly white, of an oval form and handsome ap- 
pearance ; the flesh is also white, melting, juicy and plea- 
sant ; it is much used for preserves when not over ripe, and 
is at full maturity in September. 

32. Red Cheek Malacatune, Yellow Malagaton, Alberge 
Incomparable. — This variety originated at the Flushing nur- 
sery ; the fruit is of large size and oval form ; its colour is 
yellow, with a red cheek on the sunny side ; the flesh is also 
yellow, melting, rich, juicy and luscious. There is another 
variety of this fruit, which originated with Mr. Polls, of New 
York, said to be very productive, and of excellent quality ; 
ripens in September. 

33. Neivette, Velontee Tardive. — Fruit large, a little ob- 
long, downy, green in the shade, and deep red next the sun ; 
flesh firm, saccharine and high flavoured ; ripens towards the 
end of September. 

34. Late Admirable, /?o?/a/e, Royal, B our dine. —Fiuit large, 
roundish, inclining to oblong ; sature deeply impressed along 
one side, having the flesh swelling boldly and equally on both 
sides, with a slight impression on the summit ; skin downy, of 
pale green colour, streaked with dull tawny red ; flesh white, 
delicate, melting, juicy, and high flavoured ; a " magnificent 
peach," ripening in September. Mr. Prince has the Teton de 
Venus under this head, as a synonyme ; but it is generally 



PEACH. 319 

considered as a distinct variety. Mr. Kenrick says, that 
there are two or three varieties named Teton de Venus. 

35. President. — This variety originated at Bedford, on 
Long Island. It is a rich, melting, juicy fruit, ripening in 
September ; it is of large size, roundish, with a shallow 
sature ; skin very downy, dull red next the sun, pale yellowish 
green in the shade ; a first-rate peach, 

36. Hoffman's Pound. — This fruit is by some called the 
Morrissania, from its having been first obtained by Mr. Floy, 
from Gouverneur Morris ; but it originated with Martin 
Hoffman, Esq. of New-York. The fruit is very large, weigh- 
ing from twelve to fourteen ounces; very juicy and delicious, 
parting from the stone ; greatly esteemed from its ripening 
late, about the middle of October. 

37. Monstrous Lemon, Largest Lemon. — This variety was 
first discovered in the garden of Mr. Tiebout, of York Island ; 
the fruit is of the largest size, and in the gardens of two per- 
sons in New-York, has weighed seventeen ounces, as stated 
by Mr. Prince. He says the tree does not bear well, unless 
the situation is a sheltered one ; the fruit is late in ripening. 

38. Heath Freestone, KenricFs Heath. — This variety was 
first obtained from the late General Heath, of Roxbury, near 
Boston. The fruit is very large, oblong and beautiful ; fre- 
quently weighing half a pound ; colour pale yellowish green, 
with crimson or violet next the sun ; its flesh is melting, juicy, 
rich, vinous, agreeably acid, and good ; ripens in October. 

' 39. Morris's Red Free Stone, i^erf Rare Ripe. — Fruit nearly 
round, of large size, apex a little sunken ; skin greenish 
white, with red cheek ; flesh whitish and melting. Ripe to- 
wards the end of August and September. 

40. Morris's White Freeitone, White Rare Ripe, Phila- 
delphia Freestone. — Fruit large, and inclining to the oval 
form, sature even, but not deep ; apex a little sunken ; flesh 
white, or rather yellowish ; juice rich and sweet. Ripe 
towards the end of September. 

41. Heath, Heath Clingstone.— Mr. Prince says, that the 
original tree of this variety was discovered growing wild on 
the farm of the late Judge Willet, of Flushing, and took its 
name from its being found in a barren field. The fruit is very 
large, of oval or oblong form ; the skin is white ; the flesh is 
peculiarly rich and highly flavoured, tender, melting and 
juicy. There is another variety mentioned by Mr. Kenrick, 
and called by the same name, stated by Mr. Coxe to have 
been raised from a stone brought by Mr. Heath from the 
Mediterranean. 



320 FEAGH. 

42. Early Newingtok, Smith's Newington^ New-York 
Early Ji'twington. — A much esteemed fruit ; its colour in the 
shade is white, but next the sun red ; its form is globular ; its 
flesh is juicy, rich and high flavoured. The tree is productive, 
and the fruit matures in August and September. 

43. Pavie Admirable, Incomparable. — Fruit large, round* 
ish; skin pale yellow, shaded with scarlet or deep crimson 
next the sun ; flesh pale yellow, juice sugary and well fla- 
voured. 

44. Lemon Clingstone, Pine ^pple, or Kennedy's Lemon. — 
The fruit is rather large, oblong ; colour, in the shade, deep 
yellow, but of a dark red next the sun; tha flesh is yellow, 
rich, vinous, a little acid. 

45. Prince's Blood Clingstone, Blood Clingstone, Claret 
Clingstone. — The fruit is oval, and of a large size ; the skin is 
of a dark purplish colour, and very downy; the flesh of a 
crimson or purplish tint ; suited for preserves and pickles. 

46. Monstrous Pavie of Pompoone, Gros Molecoton, Gros 
Persique Rouge. — Fruit very large and round, downy, of a 
fine red and greenish white colour ; flesh white, deep red at 
the stone, juicy and vinous; excellent for preserving; tree a 
good bearer. 

47. Old Newington. — This fruit is large and globular, of 
a fine bright red and pale yellow colour ; flesh yellowish 
white, very juicy, rich, sweet, and well flavoured ; very prp- 
ductive. 

48. Diana. — A large, oblong peach ; colour white in the 
shade, but red next the sun ; flesh very juicy and delicious. 

49. Pavie Magdaleine, Paz;2e EZanc, Ma/ecoion, Myrecoton^ 
Persique a Gros Fruit Blanc. — The fruit is large and downy; 
white in the shade, and red next the sun ; flesh white, fine, 
melting, and of an agreeable musky flavour. 

50. Hoyte's Lemon Clingstone. This fruit is of the 

largest size ; of a clear golden yellow in the shade, but bright 
red next the sun ; its form resembles a lemon, and some have 
weighed twelve ounces ; its flesh is firm, and is at maturity 
in New York by the end of September. 

51. Yellow Albkrge Clingstone, Persais d'Angoumois^ 
Pavie Jaun, Persecque Jaune. — Fruit of fine size and beautiful 
form ; the skin is velvety yellow where shaded, and speckled 
with reddish points; the flesh is firm, rather dry, and almost 
breaking ; its colour is yellow. It is deemed an excellent 
fruit. 

52. Catharine. — Fruit, large, round, variable ; colour a 
beautiful red next the sun, marbled and dashed with darker 



PEAR. 321 

shades; pale yellow in the shade ; flesh very white, tinged 
with yellow; juice abundant, and of very rich and sweet 
flavour; tree a good bearer. 

53. New York White Clingstone, Williamson's J^ew 
York.— Fruit large, round, with a pointed apex ; skin white, 
tinged with rose ; flesh yellow, melting and soft, but adhe-. 
ring close to the stone; juice very plentiful, sweet, luscious, 
and high flavoured. Ripe in September. 

54, Braddick's North American, or, American Clingstone. 
— Fruit middle sized ; skin pale yellow, tinged with red ; 
flesh pale yellow, quite to the stone, to which it firmly ad- 
heres ; juice plentiful and good. Ripe in September, 

PEAR. 

The first 18 are Summer, the second 24 Autumn, the third 
19 Winter Pears, and the last 6 are Perry Pears. 

1. Musk Robine, Poire a la Reine, La P vine esse. Queen's 
Pear, Muscat Robert, Poire dfAmbre. — Fruit small, and of 
yellow colour ; it ripens in July, and continues to the end of 
August ; of a rich musky flavour, a great bearer, and much 
esteemed dessert fruit. 

2. London Sugar. — This fruit is below medium size; co- 
lour greenish yellow, tinged with brown ; form turbinate, 
narrowed at the crown ; flesh tender, melting, saccharine, of a 
rich musky flavour; an excellent early fruit, and very pro- 
ductive. Ripe in July. 

3. Madeleine, Magdalene, Citron des Carmes, Early Chau- 
montelle- — This pear is of medium size, pale yellow, with an 
occasional blush next the sun; flesh white, melting, perfu- 
med. A fine old fruit, ripe at the end of July. 

4. Premature. — A new pear, about the size of the Craw- 
ford, but more juicy and delicious, and remarkably early ; it 
commands a good price in the markets of Edinburgh, Scot- 
land, and is reputed a most superior early fruit. 

5. JaPxGonelle, Epargne, Beau Present., Saint Samson, 
Grosse Cuisse Madame, Saint Lambert, Poire des Tables des 
Priiices. — Fruit rather large, oblong, of a pale green colour ; 
flesh melting, juicy, with a slightly acid, rich and agreeable 
flavour. It ripens early in August, is one of the most pro- 
ductive of all pears, and the very best in its season. 

6. CuissE Madame, Epine d''Eie, Fondanie Musque, Satin 
Vert, Satin Green. — Fruit of smallish size ; greenish yellow 
at maturity ; pyramidal ; flesh melting, juicy, musky, rich, 
and excellent. Ripe by the middle of August. 

28* 



822 PEAR. 

7. Green Chissel. — Fruit^nearly globular; skin green, but 
slightly brown next the sun ; flesh gritty, saccharine, a liille 
perfumed ; the fruit grows in clusters, and ripens early in 
August. The tree is of feeble growth, but very productive. 

8. August Muscat, Aurate^ Muscat d'Aout, Musk, or Spice. 
— Fruit of medium size ; turbinate, flattened ; colour yellow, 
but light red next the sun ; flesh breaking, saccharine and 
perfumed. It succeeds tolerably on the quince, and ripens 
early in August. 

9. Cassolette, Friolet^ Lechefrion^ Muscat Verd, Poire de 
Sillerie, Verdasse, Green Muscat. — A small pyriform fruit, of 
a bright green colour, slightly red next the sun ; flesh break- 
ing, of a sweet and musky flavour ; ripens in August, 

10. Sabine d'Ete. — This pearls of pyramidal form, termi- 
nating in a round blunt point at the stalk ; colour yellow, but 
fine scarlet next the sun ; the whole surface smooth, regular, 
and polished ; flesh white, melting, juicy, and highly per- 
fumed, the tree is an abundant bearer, and ripens its fruit in 
August. 

11. Seignei R d'Ete.— Fruit above the middle size ; a 
blunt oval ; colour fine orange, but bright scarlet next the 
sun, and marbled ; flesh melting, free from grit ; a rich and 
beautiful pear. The tree is handsome, and bears well ; its 
fruit ripens early in September. 

12. RoussELET DE Rheims, Petit Roiisselet. — Fruit small, 
pyramidal, greenish yellow at maturity, but brown red next 
the sun, with russety spots ; flesh half beurre, fine, very 
perfumed. Good to put in brandy, and to dry. Ripens end 
of August. 

13. WiLLiAJis' Bonchretien, Barlht. — This fruit origina- 
ted with a Mr. Wheeler, in Berkshire, England, but was 
subsequently extensively propagated by Mr. Williams, near 
London — hence its name. The fruit is large, oblong ; the 
stalk thick and fleshy, an inch long; the colour at maturity, 
yellow, tinged with red ; flesh whitish, very melting, and 
delicate ; juice perfumed, sweet, and abundant. Tree very 
productive, and fruit ripe at the end of August. 

14. Windsor, Cuisse Madame, of the French. — A middle 
sized oblong pear ; colour green, but brownish red next the 
sun; half melting, svyeet, a little musky, rather coarse ; ripe 
by the end of August. 

15. Summer Bonchretien, Bonchretien d^Ete, Gracioli, of 

the French. Fruit very large, irregular, knobby ; skin 

smooth, of pale yellow colour, but slightly red next the sun ; 



PEAR. 323 

flesh whitish, yellow, firm and breaking ^ juice sweet and 
very agreeable. It ripens early in September. 

16. Summer Bergamot, Hamden^s Bersamot, Milan Blanc ^ 
Bergamot d'Ete, Milan de la Beuvriere. — Fruit of medium 
size, globular, depressed ; colour greenish yellow, russetted 
and speckled next the sun ; flesh melting, juicy, saccharine, 
and high flavoured. At maturity by the middle of September. 

17. Dearborn's Seedling. — This new variety originated 
in the garden of the Hon. H. A. S. Dearborn, of Roxbury. 
The tree is of vigorous growth ; fruit of medium size, rounded 
at the crown, and regularly diminishes in a parabolic manner 
to tlie stalk ; the skin is smooth, thin green, with russet 
spots ; at maturity it turns to a delicate yellow ; flesh very 
melting, and of the finest flavour. 

18. Julienne, of Coxe, L^j^rchiduc D^Ete, Summer Beurre, 
Summer Doyenne, Summer St. Michael, so called near Boston, 
jBZoorfgooc? Pear of New York. — Fruit medium size, smooth, 
bright yellow at maturity, with a faint blush next the sun ; 
form rather ovate, tapering towards the stalk ; flesh perfectly 
melting, rich and juicy. The tree bears young, and most 
profusely, and matures its fruit early in September. 

19. Autumn Colmar. — Fruit middle size, oblong ; of a pale 
yellow colour, with much thin russet next the sun; flesh 
rather gritty but mellow, with a sugary and slightly perfumed 
juice. A new, hardy, Flemish variety, ripening its fruit early 
in October. 

20. Belle et Bonne, Schone und guic., Belle de Bruxelles. — 
♦* A harvest pear, magnificent," very large, globular, de- 
pressed, the stalk long ; skin greenish yellow, but next the 
sun yellow, with spots of russet ; flesh white, sweet, exceeding 
rich and agreeable ; perfumed. The tree is very productive, 
and the fruit ripens in September. 

21. Moor Fowl Egg— Fruit small, globular, ovate, swollen 
in the middle, orange brown next the sun, with spots of rus- 
set ; flesh yellowish white, a little gritty, tender mellow, 
saccharine, a little perfumed. This is a hardy Scotch fruit ; 
ripe end of September. 

22. Bezy de Montigny, Trouve de Montigny. — Fruit me- 
dium size, pyramidal, compressed towards the summit; colour 
yellow; flesh \^hile, a little gritty, very melting; sweet, 
musky. It succeeds on the quince. Ripe in September. 

23. Elton. — A pear of medium size, oval form, broadest to- 
wards the crown ; colour greenish russetty gray, but russetty 
orange next the sun ; flesh breaking, and of an excellent 
flavour. Ripe in September. 



324 PEAS. 

24. Delices d'Ardenpont, Delices d'Hardenpont^ de ToU' 
louse. — Fruit medium siae ; skin a little thick, smooth, green, 
but yellow at maturity ; flesh white, nearly melting ; juice 
pleasant, sweet and abundant. Ripe in October. 

25. Seckle. — An excellent native fruit, size varying from 
small to medium ; colour varying from yellowish to brownish 
russet ; but generally red next the sun ; flesh of a melting, 
spicy, and of a most extraordinary rich and delicious flavour. 
It ripens the middle of September, and the fruit grows in 
clusters, in great abundance. 

26. UuBANisTE. — The fruit is piramidally ovate ; skin pale 
green, inclining to yellow ; flesh white, but reddish yellow 
next the core ; it is quite melting, juicy, and very sweet, with 
a little perfume. It ripens from the middle of September to 
November. 

27. Marie Louise. — Fruit oblong, tapering towards both 
ends ; size varying from medium to large ; skin nearly smooth, 
yellowish green, and cinnamon coloured russet ; flesh while, 
melting, juicy and rich. It ripens in October, and is de- 
scribed as an excellent fruit. 

28. Doyenne Santslete. — A new fine handsome Flemish 
pear. Fruit above the middle size, pyramidally oblong ; 
skin pale green, speckled with gray russet ; flesh white, a 
little gritty, but tender; juice saccharine, with a slight 
musky perfume. The tree is hardy, and ripens its fruit early 
in October. 

29. Gray Doyenne, Red Doyenne, Doyenne Gris, Doyenne 
Roux^i Doyenne d'Aulomne. — Fruit medium sized ; aolour 
bright crimson russet, but red next the sun ; flesh yellowish 
white, molting, saccharine, rich, and of excellent flavour. 
Season, October and November. 

30. AsHTON Town. — The. fruit is small, of a greenish co- 
lour, spotted with russet ; the flesh is melting, high flavoured, 
richly sugared and perfumed. It is in perfection in October 
and November. 

31. AvTVisis Burg A.MOT, Common Bergamot, York Bergamol. 
— Fruit globular depressed, the skin rough, yellowish green, 
and dull brown ; flesh pale, melting, juicy, sugary, and per- 
fumed ; ripe in September and October. A first rate pear. 

32. Golden Beurre of Bilboa, — Fruit of medium size ; 
oblong ; colour a bright golden yellow, with patches of russet ; 
perfectly melting and of fine flavour. A beautiful fruit, a 
great bearer, and worthy of cultivation. 

33. Hacon's Incomparable. — Fruit middle sized, of pale 



PEAR. 



325 



yellow colour, mixed with green, partially covereJ with orange 
nisset ; flesh yellowish white, slightly gritty, but very tender, 
juicy, sweet and rich ; and possessing a high musky and per- 
fumed flavour. The tree is a great bearer, and the fruit 
excellent, and is in perfection in November and December. 
A silver medal was given for a specimen of this fruit, as a 
prize, in England, 1830. 

34. Duchess of Angouleme, Duchesse d'Angouleme. — A 
pear ot first rate excellence. Form roundish, oblong, tapering 
towards the stalk ; skin dull yellow, with broad russet patches ; 
flesh rich, melting, very juicy, and high flavoured, with a most 
agreeable perfume. Specimens of this fruit have been seen 
in England, weighing twenty-two ounces. In perfection in 
November and December. 

35. Green Svlvange, Sylvange Vert, Bergamotte Sylvavge, 
— A most superior pear, above the medium size, of green 
colour, skin rough, and speckled with gray or black. The 
flesh is greenish near the skin, white in the centre, soft, sac- 
charino and juicy. Fruit in perfection from October to 
January. The tree is a great bearer, and specimens of the 
fruit have been known to weigh thirteen ounces. 

30. Bishop's Thumb. — Fruit over medium size, very oblong » 
it is twice as long as broad, and tapers to its summit ; colour 
dark green, and brownish red, with iron-coloured russet ; flesh 
yellowish green, melting, juicy, rich and excellent; ripening 
in October. 

37. Brown Beurre, Beurre Rouge, Buerre d'Or, Beurre 
Doie, Beurre du Roi, Beurre d''Arnboise, Isambert, Red Beurre, 
Golden Beurre. — This was formerly considered the best of all 
pears. Fruit rather large, of greenish yellow, and dusky red 
colour, covered with thin russet ; flesh melting, buttery, rich 
and excellent. In perfection in October, and will often keep 
till January. 

38. Pkincesse d' Orange, Prmcess o/ Orange.— The fruit is 
roundish ; the skin bright reddifh orange russet ; flesh yellow- 
ish white, sugary and rich, in some seasons perfectly melting, 
but occasionally a little gritty. A beautiful pear, and of good 
quality in October. 

39. Swan's Egg. — Fruit small, oval, turbinate; colour 
yellowish green and dull russetty brown ; flesh tender and 
melting, with a rich, saccharine, musky flavour. An excellent 
fruit, ripe in October. The tree is remarkably tall, upright, 
vigorous, and productive. 

40. Charles d'Autriche, Charles of Austria — A fine and 
beautiful fruit, large, three and a half incheg long, and three 



326 PEAR. 

inches broad ; colour greenish yellow, with brown spots and 
partly nissetted ; flesh while, melting, juicy, and delicious. 
Ripe in October. 

41. Gansel's BuRGAMOT, Srom'v ^Mrganjof, Ives's Bugamoti 
Bonne Rouge. — Fruit varying from medium size to large ; 
ovate, flattened ; colour dull green, slightly red next the sun ; 
fiesh wliite, melting, sweet, rich and high flavoured. A deli- 
cious pear, ripe in October and good till Christmas. 

42. Napoleon, Medaille, Sauvageon Liart. — Fruit large, form 
cf ihe Colmar ; skin smooth; colour bright green, but at 
maturity, pale green ; flesh very melting, with an unusual 
abundance of rich agreeable juice. At perfection in October 
and iNov ember. 

43. IBeurre dWremberg, Beurre d^Arembert, Due d'Arcm- 
berg, Poire d\/}rember^, Beiirre Desckamp^ , Beurre Orphelins of 
Deschamjys. — The English and French writers speak of this 
pear as one of the best in cultivation. The tree is a great 
bearer, comes early into cultivation, and the fruit will keep 
till March. Fruit large, turbinate ; skin of a delicate pale 
green, dotted with russet, which becomes a deeper yellow at 
maturity ; flesh whitish, fine, very juicy, perfectly melting, and 
very extraordinarily rich, sweet, high flavoured and excellent. 

44. Easter Burgamot, BergamoHs Bugi, Bergarnotte de 
Paques, Bergarnotte d' Hirer, La Grillieu, Paddington, Tarlin^ 
Winter Bergamot — Fruit rather large, short, roundish turbi- 
nate ; swollen at the crown ; colour yellow at maturity ;' half 
beurre; sweet and good. In perfection from December to 
May. 

45. Francreal, Fin, or d'Hiver^ Francreal d'Hiver. — The tree 
is very productive ; it succeeds well on the quince ; fruit glo- 
bular; colour yellowish green, but brownish red next the sun, 
and a little russetty ; good to cook from October to midwinter. 

46. Beurre Diel, Diet's Butterbirne, Dorothee Royale, 
Beurre de Gelle, Beurre Royale, Poire de Melon. — This ranks 
amongst the best of pears. The tree is of vigorous growth ; 
fruit when in perfection, four inches long, and three inches 
broad ; the skin at maturity is bright orange, with reddish 
russet ; flesh clear white, tender, melting, and juicy, and of a 
delicious aromatic flavour ; from November to January. 

47. Beukre Range, Beurre Epine.Hardtnpont de Prinlemps. 
— This is said to be a first rate pear. The tree is vigor- 
ous and a good bearer; fruit middle sized, oblong; skin 
deep green ; flesh green, melting, having a delicious rich 
flavour, with very little acid. It shrivels in ripening, but will 
keep till April. 



PEAR. 327 

48. Gloria, Colmard'Hiver. — A name implying every thing 
that is excellent, A melting pair of superior quality ; shape 
varying from nearly globular to pear shaped ; colour yellow- 
ish green ; flesh firm, juicy, and of excellent flavour ; at per- 
fection in January and February. 

49. Holland Bukgamot, Burgamotte d'Hollayid, D'AIencon. 
-^Fruit very large, globular, but broadest at the crown, flat- 
tened ; of greenish yellow colour; flesh half breaking, juicy, 
and high flavoured ; it keeps till May, and succeeds on the 
quince. 

30. Saint Germain, Inconnue la Fare, — This celebrated 
ancient fruit is large, of a green colour, covered with russet 
spots ; at maturity a yellowish cast ; its flesh very melting, 
juicy, saccharine, slightly acid, and delicious; it ripens in 
November, and may be kept till March. 

51. Monarch. — Anew pair, considered by Mr. Knight as 
without a rival. The tree is represented of rapid growth, and 
an abundant bearer ; fruit large, of an extraordinary musky 
flavour, and deemed excellent for JPerry. Season in England, 
December and January. 

52. CoLMAR, Poire Manne, Bergamolte Tardive. Incomparable. 
— This fruit is rather large ; skin smootU, of a green colour, 
changing to a yellow at maturity; form pyramidal; flesh 
melting, juicy saccharine, and of excellent flavour ; the fruit 
is in perfection from November to February. 

53. Easter Buerre, Bergamolte de la Pentecote, Beurre 
d''Hiver de Bruxelles, Doyenne d'Hiver, de Bruxelles, Bezi 
Chauinontelle Tres Gros — Of all the late keeping pears, this is 
considered the best, (for England.) Fruit large, roundish, 
oblong ; colour green, but yellow at maturity, with specks of 
russet brown ; i1esh yellowish white, perfectly buttery and 
melting-, and extremely high flavoured ; it is eatable in No- 
vember, and will keep till May ; it is a most profuse bearer, 
on a quince stock. 

54. Passe Colmar, Fondant e de Panisel, Passe Colmar Gris 
dit PreceU Poire Precel, Passe Colmar Epineux, Beurre Colmar 
Gris dit Precel, Beurre d'^Argenson, Chapmans. — A most va- 
luable pear, of medium size, conical, flattened next the eye ; 
skin at maturity yellowish, sprinkled with russet, a tinge of 
red next the sun; flesh yellowish, melting, juicy, rich and 
excttUent. The tree is a good bearer, and the fruit is in per- 
fection from November to February. 

55. Flemish Bon Chretien, Bon Chretien Kouvelle Espece. 
— Fruit large, oblong, turbinate; skin at maturity yellow, 
mottled with russet next the sun ; flesh yellowish white, 



328 PEAR. 

breaking, a little gritty, but mellow at maturity ; juice saccha- 
rine, with a slight musky perfume ; season from November till 
February. 

56. Glot Morceau, Gloux Morceaux. — Avery large Belgic 
variety, of great excellence ; fruit of ovalish form, pale green 
colour, inclining to yellow, with russetty specks and blotches ; 
flesh whitish, firm, very juicy and excellent ; in perfection from 
November to March. 

57. Poire de Anana, Poire d'Ananas. — A nev/ Flemish 
variety, held in high esteem ; a winter fruit, of medium size, 
very handsome, melting, with a fine pine apple flavour, (hence 
its name Ananas ;) ripening in November, and good till March; 
the tree is of dwarfish habits, and flowering freely, and at the 
extremity of the branches. 

58. WiNiER BoNCHRETiE.v, BoYichretien d'Hiver, Poire 
d''Angoise. — Very large, colour at maturity yellow, with a 
slight stain of red next the sun ; form truncated, or pyramidal; 
flesh breaking, rather sweet and juicy. This variety, though 
enormously large, is very liable to crack, but is sometimes 
preserved sound till May. 

59. Chaumontel, Besy de Chaumontelle, Beurre d^Hiver. — 
This noble old varietj' is a fruit varying in size, from large to 
very large ; its colour at maturity yellow, tinged with red 
next the sun ; ifs form variable ; flesh melting, juicy, sweet, 
musky, excellent ; season from November to February. 

GO. CARDiNALf^, Poire (T Amir al^ Admiral. — The tree is of 
medium vigour, its young wood of medium size, and of a red 
colour ; a superb oblong pear, of a pyramidal form ; yellow 
in the shade, but beautiful red next the sun ; flesh white, half 
melting, coarse grained, but very juicy, sweet and agreeable; 
it keeps till March, and merits to be better known. 

61. Governor Stuyvesant. — This pear took its name 
from its having been first cultivated at Stuyvesant's farm on 
New York Island. The original tree is now upwards of 200 
years old, and produces fruit of a medium size, of a greenish 
yellow colour, juicy, sweet, aromatic and excellent, 

62. Barland. — This variety took its name from the origi- 
nal tree, growing in a field called Bare Lands, in Hereford- 
shire, England. The fruit is smallish, of ovate form ; skin 
dull green, russetted with gray. It is deemed excellent for 
perry. Specific gravity of its juice 1070. 

63. HoLMORE. — Fruit small, globular ; skin of a dingy 
yellowish green, tinged with red. Excellent perry is made 
of thi« variety in Herefordshire, England. Specific gravity 
of its juice 1066. 



PLUM. 329 

64. HuFFCAP. — There are several varieties of pears bear 
this name, but the best perry is made of the true Hereford- 
shire Huffcap. The fruit is middle sized, of pale green co- 
lour, marked with gray russet. Specific gravity of its juice 
1070. 

65. Oldfield. — Fruit below the middle size, of pale green 
colour, with russetty spots. An excellent perry fruit; spe- 
cilic gravity of its juice 1067. 

66. LoNGLAND. — Fruit very handsome, much like the 
swan's egg in shape ; skin bright gold colour, tinged and 
mottled with a russetty lively orange ; specific gravity of its 
juice 1063. The tree is handsome and upright, and much 
cultivated in Herefordshire for perry. 

67. Teinton Squash. — Fruit middle sized, of angular 
shape ; skin a muddy russetty green, marbled with dull 
orange, interspersed with ash-coloured specks. It originated in 
Teinton, Gloucestershire, and the perry made from this fruit 
is of the very highest quality, something approaching in 
colour and briskness to champagne, for which fine samples 
of it have sometimes been sold. 

PLUMS. 

1. Precoce de Tours, Early Tours. — The tree is vigorous 
and fertile ; fruit small, oval, dark purple, covered with fine 
bloom ; flesh greenish yellow, tender, juicy, and of very agree- 
able flavour ; one of the best early varieties, and very produc- 
tive; ripe at the end of July. 

2. Great Damask Violet of Tours, Gros Damas de Tours. 
— This plum is of a dark purple colour, covered with bloom ; 
the flesh is whitish, firm, sweet, pretty rich, and of a very 
pleasant flavour ; it ripens towards the end of July, and is in 
perfection early in August. 

3. Morocco, Early Black Damask, Black Damascus, Black 
Morocco., Early Damask, Early Morocco. — This is considered as 
one of the best of early plums. The tree is very hardy and 
productive; fruit middle sized, roundish; skin deep blackish 
purple, covered with a light blue bloom ; flesh greenish yel- 
low, juicy, rich, and high flavoured ; ripe early in August. 

4. Nectarine Plum, Caledonian., HoweWs Large, Prune 
Peche — One of the most beautiful plums known ; large, nearly 
round; the skin at maturity varies from red to crimson, 
covered with azure bloom; flesh yellowish, coarsegrained, 
astringent; juice abundant, and of mild, pleasant flavour ; at 
maturity early in August. 

29 



330 PLUM. 

5. Jaune Hative, Prune de Catalogne, Prune de St. ^ut" 
nabe, Catalonian, White Primordian^ Ambtr Primordian. — 
Fruit small, round, and of a yellow colour ; ripens in the end 
of July ; flesh mealy ; tree a great bearer ; and the fruit 
chiefly esteemed for its precocity. 

6. Blue Perdigron, Perdigron Violet. — This plum may be 
ranked among the choice varieties; its form is nearly round, 
of medium size, and of purple colour ; its flesh is greenish, 
partially melting, and moderately sweet and rich ; it ripens 
at about the middle of August. 

7. Early Orleans, Hampton Court. — Fruit of largish size 
and oval form ; of a red colour ; ripening about the middle of 
August; the flesh is of a rich juicy flavour, and the tree a 
great bearer. 

8. Wilmot's New Early Orleans, WilmoVs Orleans. — 
This plum is of medium size and round form ; itssature deep ; 
of a dark purplish hue, covered with a fine bloom ; the flesh 
is greenish yellow, of excellent flavour, sweet, combined with 
a pleasant acid. It is a handsome plum, ripening early in 
August. 

9. New- York Purple, Brevoort^s Purple Bolmer. — An excel- 
lent fruit, raised from a seed of the Washington Plum, thai 
had been impregnated with the pollen of the Blue Gage. The 
fruit is very large, of a rich and brisk flavour ; the flesh ad- 
heres to the stone ; ripe about the middle of August. 

10. Blue Gage, Azure Hative.— This fruit is of medium 
size, and of a roundish, oval shape ; skin violet, powdered 
with a light blue bloom, with pale yellow dots; flesh greenish 
amber, rich, sugary, and high flavoured ; ripe in August. 

11. Chester, Matchless. — This plum is of oval form, and 
of a dark blue colour, with a partial violet bloom ; the flesh is 
dark yellow, rich, and full of sweet and pleasant juice ; the 
fruit ripens in August, and the tree produces abundantly. 

12. FoTHERiNGHAM, Sheer Plum. — This fruit is of large size, 
the form oblong, with a deep sature ; the skin is of a deep 
red colour ; the flesh is white, firm and crisp, rich, juicy, and 
of fine flavour ; at perfection in August. 

13. RoYAb DE Tours. — The tree is of extraordinary vigor- 
ous growth; its principal stem rises vertically; the fruit is 
globular, of red violet colour, covered with azure bloom; flesh 
yellow, fine, good ; juice abundant and sweet ; ripens in 
August, 

14. Maitre Claude. — This fruit is of large size and round 
form ; skin of a bright yellow colour, with dark red spots, and 



PLUM. 331 

is covered with a thin white bloom ; the flesh is pale yellow, 
and firm, with sweet and sprightly juice ; ripens in August. 

15. Washington, New Washington, Bolmer's Washingiorir 
Franklin, Imperial Gage, Superior Gage.— A very large, glo- 
bular plum, inclining to oval ; greenish yellow next the sun, 
with crimson specks, covered with a rich bloom. This plum 
has sometimes weighed over four ounces ; its flesh is yellow 
and firm, sweet and delicious, but not considered equal in 
flavour to the Green Gage ; ripe in August. 

16. Green Gage, Great Queen Claudia, Dauphine, Grosse 
Reine Claude, Abricot Vert, Verte Bonne, Large Green Claudia, 
Gros Damas Vert.— A middle sized round fruit, of a yellowish 
green colour, and purplish russetty red next the sun ; the flesh 
IS of a greenish hue, melting, with abundance of very sweet 
and highly perfumed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at 
maturity towards the end of August. 

17. Lucombe's Nonsuch.— This plum is large, compressed 
at the summit and base, its breadth is two inches ; its colour 
at maturity, as well as its form, resembles the Queen Gage, 
but more streaked with yellow, flesh firm, rich and juicy ; at 
maturity by the end of August ; tree a good bearer. 

18. Italian Damask, Damas d'ltalie.— This fruit is rather 
large, its fonn globular, a little flattened at the base ; blue or 
violet next the sun, and covered with a purple bloom; its flesh 
is yellow, rich and juicy, and the tree, which matures its fruit 
by the end of August, is very productive. 

19. Bleecker's Gage.— This plum is stated to have been 
raised by the Rev. Mr. Bleecker, of Albany, from the stone of 
a German Prune ; it is described as a large, globular fruit, of 
excellent quality, and a great bearer. 

20. Cooper's Large Red, Cooper's Large American.— Thi^ 
plum is of extraordinary size, measuring within an eighth of 
two inches in each direction ; the skin is of a fine dark purple 
colour ; the flesh is yellowish green, rich, juicy, and of plea- 
sant flavour ; the fruit makes excellent preserves, if gathered 
in August ; its great defect is an inclination to rot. 

21 . KiRKE's Plum.— This variety is said to be as hardy and 
prolific as the Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as 
good as the Green Gage. Fruit large, roundish, oval ; skin 
covered with a close, firm, azure bloom, through which ap- 
pears a few golden specks ; flesh greenish yellow, firm, juicy 
and rich ; in perfection the early part of September. 

22. Red Diaper, Diapree Rouge, Roche Oorbon.— One of the 
most beautiful plums known ; form oval, two inches and one- 
third in length, a little pear-shaped ; colour bright red, with a 



332 



PLUM. 



partial degree of bloom, and speckled with dots of deeper 
red ; flesh greenish yellow, soft and sweet, but coarse ; its 
quality does not correspond with its appearance, but they 
make excellent prunes, if gathered early in September. 

23. Goliath, Goliah, St. Cloud. — This fruit is very large, 
sometimes weighing four ounces ; the skin is a deep reddish 
purple ; the flesh pale, firm, and well flavoured, but not rich ; 
the tree is a great bearer, and the fruit much used for cooking ; 
ripe in September. 

24. Imperial Diadem. — A large fruit, admirably adapted 
for culinary purposes ; shape oval ; colour pale red, but dark 
when mature, which is about the middle of September ; it is 
of good flavour, and highly perfumed. 

25. Jerusalem — The tree is vigorous and productive; fruit 
beautiful; its form oval; skin thick, blue next the sun, 
covered with an elegant bloom ; flesh yellowish, coarfe-grain- 
ed, but melting ; juice abundant, high flavoured and sweot; a 
large, handsome fruit, ripe early in September. 

26. Diamond Plum. — Some consider this as the largest 
plum known ; its colour is a dark purple ; in form it resembles 
the Magnum Bonum, but its flavour is considered rather 
superior ; the tree, which grows vigorously, originated with 
Mr. Hooker, in Kent, England. 

27. Red Queen Mother. — This plum is large, its colour 
bright red, covered with pale bloom ; its flesh is yellow, sweet 
and excellent, ripening in September. 

28. La Royale, Royale. — A large and excellent plum, of a 
homely dull red colour, but concealed by a thick violet or 
azure bloom ; flesh fine, yellowish green, firm, juicy, high 
flavoured and delicious ; a superior plum, at maturity in 
September. 

29. Mimms, Mimin's Plum, — The fruit is very large, a little 
oblong ; colour bright purple, covered with thick bloom ; its 
flesh is yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very agreeably 
flavored ; ripe in September. 

30. SuRPASsE MoNsiEURE. — A large fruit, of oval form^and 
of a dark red purplish colour, raised by a Mr. Noisette ; it is 
said to be more beautiful and perfumed than the Monsieur, 
and the tree yields suckers which produce fruit in all their 
beauty and excellence. 

31. Purpls Gage, Reine Claude Violette^ Die Violeite, Ko- 
nigen Claudie. — This fruit is large, almost round, and con- 
sidered in France as one of the finest varieties ; its skin is of 
violet purple colour, with pale yellow dots, and covered with 



PLUM. 333 

a, light blue bloom ; flesh greenish amber, rich, saccharine and 
high flavoured ; at maturity in September. 

32. ViRGiNALE. — This fruit ranks among the best of plums ; 
its shape is round, colour yellowish, touched with violet or 
rose, and covered with dense bloomy flesh melting, juice 
abundant, and very agreeable. 

33. Red Magnum Bonum, Imperial Violette, of the French. 
— A large, oval plum, of deep red colour, covered with blue 
bloom ; flesh yellowish, harsh and acid ; consequently good 
for cooking, preserves, «S:c. Fit for use in September. 

34. Red Perdrigon, Perdrigon Rouge. — An excellent plum, 
of the first class, of medium size, oval shape, and fine red 
colour, with gold coloured dots and a fine bloom; flesh bright 
yellow, transparent; juice sweet and delicious. Peeled and 
dried in September, it makes excellent prunes. 

35. WiNEsouR, Rotherham, of the old gardens. — This plum 
is excellent for sweetmeats ; it is of smallish size, oblong form, 
and of dark purple cilour ; the flesh is yellow, juicy, and of 
a pleasant acid flavour ; the fruit is fit for Use by the end of 
September ; the tree is a great bearer, and will grow on any 
soil, but flourishes most on limestone or gravel. 

36. ApaicoT Plum, Prune Abricote, Ahricottee de Tours. — 
The fruit is large, its form globular, depressed, divided by a 
deep sature ; whitish yellow, but faint red next the sun, and 
covered with bloom ; its flesh is firm, juicy, sweet, musky and 
excellent ; it ripens in September. 

37. Coe's Golden Drop, Coe's Imperial, Bury Seedling, New 
Golden Drop, Fair''s Golden Drop. — Raised by Mr. Coe, of 
Bury, Norfolk, England. The tree is vigorous, fruit of me- 
dium size ; skin greenish yellow, spotted with violet and crim- 
son ; flesh gold colour, rich and excellent ; the fruit ripens at 
the end of September, and will keep several weeks. A first 
rate fruit. 

38. Prince's Imperial Gage, Prince'' s White Gage. — This 
tree was originated at the Flushing nursery, from a seci of 
the Green Gage. The fruit is one of the largest of its class; 
the skin at maturity is yellow, dotted with red ; the flesh is 
rich, luscious and of excellent flavour, and makes fine pre- 
serves, if gathered towards the end of August ; at maturity 
in September. 

39. Saint Catharine. — A medium sized, oblong fruit; skin 
bright gold colour, spotted with red at maturity, and covered 
with bloom ; flesh yellow, tender, sweet, and of fine flavour ; 
ripens in September. 

29* 



334 PLUM, 

40. Late White Damson, Whitt Damascene, White Win- 
ter Damson, Frost Plum. — This variety is very productive, 
the fruit hanging in numerous clusters along the branches. 
The fruit is oval, of a greenish white colour, marked with 
brown spots ; the flesh is juicy, and of pleasant flavour ; it 
ripens in September, and continues on the tree several 
weeks. 

41. White Magnum Bonum, Imperiale Blanche, Egg Plumt 
White Mogul, White Holland — This fruit is of extraordinary 
size, oval, yellow% covered with pale bloom ; the flesh yellow, 
firm, acid and austere ; excellent for cooking and preserves, 
in September. 

42. White Perdrigon, Perdrigon Blanc — A middle sized, 
oblong fruit, of a pale yellow, with red spots, and covered 
with white bloom ; flesh yellow, rich, saccharine and juicy ; 
it ripens in September. 

43. Imperatrice.— One of the best of late plums ; fruit me- 
dium size, oval ; skin fine violet, covered with bloom ; flesh 
yellowish next the sun, a little firm, and very sweet, rich and 
juicy at maturity, which is from October to December. 

44. Prune Suisse, Semiana, Prune d^Altesse, Monsieur Tar- 
dif.— Fruit very handsome, round, flattened; colour varying 
from bright violet red, to deep blackish blue, and covered 
with azure bloom ; flesh greenish yellow, crackling and melt- 
ing ; juice very abundant and delicious ; an excellent fruit, 
ripening in September and October. 

45. Downton Imperatrice. — A superior late plum, of me- 
dium size ; skin dark yellow, and very thin ; the flesh yellow, 
soft, juicy, with a high flavoured acidity; at perfection in 
October. 

46. Late Black Damson, Damns Noir, Damas Noir Tar- 
dif. — An excellent fruit, of dark purple colour, almost black, 
and covered with bloom ; the flesh is rather firm, yellowish 
green, sweet, and slightly perfumed when at maturity. 

47. Late Purple Damson, Purple Winter Damson, Blue 
Damascene, Blue Damson.— This variety is in great esteem 
for preserves, and generally commands a high price. It is of 
a dark purple colour, covered with bloom ; the flesh has ra- 
ther too much acidity for a table fruit, but this tartness gives 
it an agreeable flavour when cooked. 

48. Shropshire Damson, Damson Plum.—T\\\^ is a large 
variety of the damson, of fine quality and rich flavour, most 
excellent for preserves. It ripens in October and November, 
and the tree produces abundantly. 



PLUM. 335 

49. Huling's Superb, Keyser's Plum. — This plum is of 
monstrous size, and has been known to weigh nearly four 
ounces ; it is of roundish form, and a greenish yellow colour ; 
the flesh is sweet, rich and excellent. It was raised from 
seed by Mr. Keyser, of Pennsylvania, and brought into no- 
tice by Dr. Wm. Hulings, of that State. 

50. Late Chalons, Tardi/de Chalons. — This fruit is nearly 
oval, of a whitish yellow hue, tinged with red, and covered 
with bloom ; the flesh is yellowish, melting and very juicy ; 
ripe in October. 

51. Horse Plum.— Fruit of medium size, oval, with a deep 
sature in the middle ; skin dark red, inclining to purple when 
ripe ; flesh greenish yellow ; juice acid, but agreeable. Quan- 
tities of these plums are sold in the New-York Markets, for 
sweetmeats. The trees are generally raised from suckers, 
and Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarines, will bud and thrive 
well on such stocks. 

52. Chickasavs^ PlUiM.— a native species from " Virginia to 
Carolma." Fruit sound ; some varieties are red, and some 
yellow, about the size of Cherries. The growth of the tree is 
different from any other kind of plum, and at a little distance 
looks somewhat like a Peach tree. It is very ornamental ; 
and Mr. Floy says it would make a fine stock to bud Peaches, 
Nectarines, or Almonds on, in the Southern States. 

In conclusion, it may be necessary to remind the reader, 
that, as the preceding description of fruits is only intended 
as a cantinuation of the article " On the Choice of Fruit 
Trees in the Nursery," brevity was essentially requisite. It 
is presumed however, that the explanation given will be 
found sufficient to direct the public attention to the most 
esteemed sorts of fruit. Those who may wish for more 
extensive information on this part of our subject, are referred 
to the works already alluded to, also to a work, entitled 
'♦ A Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden ; or, an Account 
of the most valuable Fruits cultivated in Great Britain, by 
George Lindley, C.M.H. S., edited by John Lindley, F.R.S,, 
&c. First American, from the last London edition, contain- 
ing notes, explanatory and practical, with numerous addi- 
tions on the propagation, culture, pruning and training of 
Siandards, Open Dwarf, and Espalier Fruit Trees, adapted 
to the climate of the United States, with additions of the 
most valuable American Fruits, and other matters, useful to 
the American Horticulturist, by Michael Floy, Gardener and 
Nurseryman, New-York, and C.M.H.S., of London." 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 



The object of this Calendar, is to assist the memory of the 
gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may find em- 
ployment in some of the departments of gardening, in every month 
of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which further 
directions may be found, relative to the operations adverted to, 

JANUARY. 

It is customary at this season of the year, with all prudent men, 
to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the results of their 
industry throughout the past year, in order to make improved 
arrangements for the future. The mere gardener, having no 
complicated accounts to adjust, may occupy his time to valuable 
purposes. If he be not a book-reader, he should be a book-keeper, 
(see page 2,) and he should frequently take a survey of his former 
practices and those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on 
every thing he has done, or seen done. If he consult writers on 
Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured lb do in 
preparing this little work for the press ; not adopt the mere theory 
of a subject, nor indulge in speculative ideas, nor even tread in the 
steps of others, but endeavour to erect his edifice of knowledge 
upon a good settled foundation. In all his pursuits, whether he 
attempts to follow the example of practical and exemplary men, 
hear lectures, or consult any authors on the subject, he should do 
as every sensible man does at his daily meals, take that which 
suits him best, and leave the residue for others. If this little work 
should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the 
general remarks in this month, (January,) and make a memoran- 
dum of such things as may be obtained at a leisure time, in 
preference to driving it off till it is wanted. I shall endeavour to 
make my Calendar serve as an index to the book, and in pursuit of 
my object, shall begin at page 1 of the general remarks, which 
suggests, that if a man has a garden to form, he will require fencing 
materials. If these should be already at hand, every gardener 
should provide manures, ingredients for the destruction of insects, 



338 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

drilling machines and other tools, poles or rods for the support of 
such Beans, Peas, or other climbing plants which he may intend to 
cultivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing frames^ he 
should make arrangements to get compost and heating materials, 
in time for the work to be performed in the next month. If he 
depends on this book for information, he may read the general 
remarks from page 1 to 10, and also page 105, on Forcing 
Vegetables. 

FEBRUARY. 



Although stern winter with its ice-bound chains, exerts its influ- 
ence over the soil, the gardener may fine employment preparatory 
to commencing his operations of ploughing and planting, as the 
year progresses. Perhaps the most important business at this 
season, is to collect plenty of manure ; next to this, the gardener, 
who intends to raise early plants for forcing or otherwise, should 
see that his hot-bed frames are in good repair and ready for use ; 
he should also repair his sashes, and make straw mats to cover them 
with. In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds, or 
forcing pits, let it be kept secure from heavy falls of snow or rain, 
and frequently turned over preparatory to its being made into a 
bed. With a view to give all attention to culture as the season 
advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit trees, and 
hardy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting out all dead 
and superfluous branches ; he may also clean trees from moss and 
canker, and search for the nests of insects, with a view to destroy 
them while in a torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has 
trellises, or any implements'of husbandry out of repair, he should 
embrace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in good 
condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. 

Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well pro- 
tected by a close fence or wall, and not in any way connected with 
any building calculated to harbour rats, mice, moles, &c., which 
are very apt to take up their abode in warm dung, to the great 
injury and sometin:;cs destruction of the beds. It is necessary that 
the foundation f(3r the beds be drily situated, and not liable to be 
inundated with water from melted snow, &c. When all is prepa- 
red as directed, y)age 104 to 110, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg-plant, 
Lettijce, and Tomato seed 104 ; force Asparagus, 109 ; Kidney 
Beans, 111 ; Cucumbers, 113; plant Peas, 119; Potatoes, 120; sow 
Radish seed, 121. In cold beds well protected, plant Broad Beans, 
20 and 111 ; sow Cabbage seed, 34. 

After the seeds are sown, the beds will require constant aUen- 
tion ; cover up well in cold nights, and give air at all opportunities, 
taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, as directed under the 
different heads, from page 104 to 120. If the heat be excessive, it 
must be decreased as directed, page 108, and if it should become. 



CALENDAR ANiD INDEX. 339 

hecessary to let off steam in cold weather, care must be taken to 
cover the apertures sufficiently to keep out frosty air. The latter 
end of this month is a good time to prune grape vines, &c. See 
article 223. 

MARCH. 

This month affords considerable employment to any industrious 
gardener. ^Manure may be drawn on the ground, and distributed 
in heaps, ready to spread, see page 10; and the hot-beds and forcing 
frames will require constant attention. Cover up warm in cold 
nights, and give additional air as the season progresses, to prevent 
the plants growing weak, taking care to regulate the heat as direct- 
ed for the dilierent kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are 
to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegeta- 
bles, they shouhl be attended to in time as directed. 

In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the weather 
moderates, the gardener should proceed with his business of pru- 
ning and cleaning fruit frees, shrubs, &c. at all opportunities ; and 
if any removal be necessar}', or fresh trees, shrubs, vines, &c. a?e 
required, these things should be obtained and planted this month 
if possible, ill. Begin the work of the kitchen garden as soon as the 
earth can be brought into good condition, and transplant hardy 
Lettuce plants, 51 ; dress Artichoke beds, 14; Asparagus, 18; 
Rhubarb, 70; Sea -Kale, 74; and prepare to make new plantations 
of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 20 and 111 ; Beet seed, 
25; plant Cauliflower, plants under hand glasses, 32 and 113; sow 
Cabbage seed, 34 und 104; Carrot, 38 ; Celery, 39 ; plant Chives, 
42; Cucumber, 114; sow Egg-plant seed, 4(» ; Garden Burnet, 48 ; 
Leek, 50; Lettuce, 52: plant Melon seed 118; sow Onion, 57; 
Parsley 59 ; Parsni[), 60; Pepper, 61 ; plant Peas, 62; Potatoes, 
120 ; sow Badish seed, 68 and 121 ; plant Rocambole, 68 ; Rhubarb, 
69 ; Salsify, 71 ; Scorzonera, 72 ; Sea- Kale, 73 ; Skirret, 76 ; sow 
Spinach seed, 78; Tomato, 80 and 104 ; Turnip seed. 83 ; prepare 
to make Hop plantations, 86 ; Horseradish, 90; Herbs, 98 and 99. 
Plant esculents for seed, beginning with the hardiest kinds ; raise 
up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c., to produce greens early for the 
table. Towards the end of the month, the covering may be taken 
froai hardy flowering plants, and the beds and borders dressed, at 
the same time, clip edgings, of box, &c. ; clean, relay, or make 
new gravel walks, 134 ; prune and transplant flowering shrubs 
and hardy herbaceous plants, and sow flower seeds, of the hardy 
kinds, 139 ; attend to and turn over compost heaps. Towards the 
end of this month the Dahlia roots should be looked over, and 
prepared for cultivation early in the next month, 170. 

APRIL. 

This is the most important month in the year for gardening 



340 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

operations. Finish as early as possible the planting of esculents for 
seed, and see that all plants of the same genus are remote from each 
otiier, or they will adulterate All the soil of a garden should be 
dug or ploughed this month if possible, and some of the early crops 
sown last month will require hoeing and weeding. 

If not done last month, make plantations of Artichokes, 12; 
Asparagus, 16 ; Beans, vicia faba, 20 ; towards the end of the 
month, plant Beans, Phaseohis, 23 and 24 ; plant Bret seed, 25 ; 
sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 29; seed of Cabbage for summer 
use, 34 ; Cardoon, 37 ; plant Carrot 38 ; Celery, 39 ; Chervil and 
Chives, 42; sow Cress seed, 43; plant Cucumber, 116; sow En- 
dive, 47; Garden Burnet, 48; plant Indian Corn, 49; Jerusalem 
Artichokes, 50; sow Leek seed, 50; Lettuce seed, 51 ; plant 
Melon, 118; sow Mustard seed, 55; plant i>Jasturtium, 56; sow 
Onion seed, 57; Parsley, 59; Parsnip, 60; plant Peas, 62; Po- 
tatoes, 64 ; Sweet Potatoes, 65 ; Pumpkins, 66 ; Patience Dock, 67 ; 
sow Radish seed, 68; plant Rocambole, 68 ; Rhubarb, 69; Sal- 
sify and Scorzonera, 72 ; Sea Kale, 73 ; sow Sorrel and Skirret, 76 ; 
Spinach, 78; plant Squash, 79; sow Turnip seed for summer 
use, 83 ; Navet. or French Turnip, variety esculenta, 36 ; make 
Hop plantations, 86 ; Horseradish, 90 ; Herh^^, 98 and 99 ; Dahlia 
roots may now be forwarded in growth, 170 ; also Tuberoses, 185, 
and Tiger Flowers, 186. Towards the end of this, or early in the 
next month, plant Amaryllises, 163, also Gladioluses, 173, and 
tender Lilie>, 177. 

Besides the work of sowing and planting the' various kinds of 
seeds above enumerated, all Ihe strongest plants of Cabbage, Cau- 
liflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot-beds and frames, 
and transplanted into the regular beds in the open garden. All 
kinds of flower seeds, except the very tender annuals, may be sown 
this month, 139 and 144, and the hardiest greenhouse plants may 
be exposed to the open air in mild weather. A ttend to such other 
business in tins departuient as was left undone last month, 
and see that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. Finish 
planting fruit trees, and attend to the Strawberry beds ; plant 
cutthigs of Grape Vines, dc, 2G0. 



MAY. 

As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the 
alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp 
litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c. near fruit trees, and sow ashes 
over the ground. Attend to plantations of Cabbages, Cauliflower, 
&c. ; hoe them frequently, and draw earth up to their stems; look 
out for and destroy grub-worms, caterpillars, and other insects, 8 ; 
weed and thin the early plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, 
Salsify, &c , and destroy weeds, to prevent their seeding in the 
ground. Plant and sow such kinds of seeds as were omitted last 
month, and transplant Cabbages, Egg-plants, Lettuce, Tomatoes, 



CALENDAR AND INDEX. 341 

&c. from the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 23 and 
24; Beet, 35; sow Borecole, 26 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 27 ; Broc- 
coli, 29 ; Cauliflower, 33 ; Cabbage seed, 34 ; Carrot, 38 ; Cress, 43 ; 
plant Cucumbers, 44 ; sow Endive seed, 47 ; plant Indian Corn, 49 ; 
Melon, 53; Water Melon, 54; sow Mustard seed, 55; plant 
Nasturtiums and Okra, 56 ; Pepper, 61 ; plant Peas, 62 ; Pota- 
toes, 64 ; Potatoe, sweet, 65 ; Pumpkins, 66 ; sow Radish seed, 68 ; 
Sorrel, 76 ; plant New Zealand Spinach, 79 ; Squash. 79 ; To- 
mato, 80, In the early part of this month, finish sowing all kinds 
of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 98 and 99. Some 
of the old hot beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best 
to form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week, and 
gather the produce ; clear them of weeds and wet litter, and put a 
little dry hay or straw next the bed. prepare fresh spawn, &c., 
92 to 96 ; sow all kinds of Flower seeds in the early part of the 
month, 139 to 144 ; mow lawns and grass walks, destroy weeds, 
remove decayed plants, support tall flowering plants, 135 ; attend 
to green-house plants, and water them frequently. Plant Dahlia 
roots in ground well prepared, 171 ; Tuberoses, 185 ; Tiger 
Flower roots, 186. 

Grape Vines and other choice trained fruits should be attended 
to in this month. Divest them of all useless and unhealthy shoots. 
If Apricot trees set too thick, the fruit should be thinned. 

JUNE. 

The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be con- 
sidered as past, but there are many kinds of seeds which may be 
sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain the success 
of his former plantings, in order to make up any deficiencies from 
failures, before the season be too far advanced. By this time, some 
of the early crops will be cleared off, and such ground as was 
manured for the early crops of Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., 
will be excellent tor late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out 
all standing crops, and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from 
running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be 
beneficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read from page 6 to 9 
for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 23 ; Beet seed, 
25. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, &c, 
failed last month, sow again early this month. Water the beds 
frequently, and sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c, or use the liquid 
recommended, page 7. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c. for 
summer use ; transplant Cardoons, 37 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 
38 ; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 45 ; sow Endive seed, 47 ; 
plant Indian Corn, 49 ; transplant Leeks, 50 ; plant Peas, soak 
them first five or six hours in water, 62 ; plant Potatoes, 64 and 65 ; 
Pumpkin seed, 66 ; sow Black Radish seed, 68. 

As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry 
day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 100. Con- 

30 



842 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

duct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have reached the top", 
nip off the tops, to strengthen the stems, 87. Give frequent 
watering to the Flower beds ; cut down dead flower stalks ; re- 
move decayed plants, and replace them with vigorous ones from 
the nursery bed, 135 ; transplant annual flower plants into the 
regular beds, and on the bulbous beds, 134 and 141. Trees on 
espaliers now require attention ; cut off such superfluous shoots as 
are not required to be trained in, leaving well placed middle sized 
shoots, to supply the place of any old branches that may be thought 
necessary to cut away. Grape vines should be looked over every 
week. Cut off all the tendrils and useless young shoots, and stop 
the shoots before the bunches of fruit. Train up the shoots for 
bearing next season, and to a proper length, before you stop them. 
Plant Colchicums, 165; finish planting Dahlias, and provide poles 
for their support, 171 and 172. 

JULY. 

This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, 
Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leek plants, &c.ifor full autumn crops. 
Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, in order that 
they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted 
in dry weather by first steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage 
plants too, if there be the least damp in the ground when it is fresh 
turned over. If Cardoons or Celery be planted in dry weather, 
the trenches must be shaded with boards. As grub worms are 
generally numerous in this month ; plant with caution, try a few 
Cabbage plants first, and if none are eaten off, you may venture to 
proceed, and by the middle of this month, the danger is generally 
over. 

«^ If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seeds may produce good 
roots by autumn, if planted early in this month ; plant Beans, 23 ; 
Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 36 ; plant Cucumber 
seed for picklers, 45 ; sow Endive seed, and transplant the former 
sowing, 47 ; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked in soft 
water five or six hours previous, 62 ; Potatoes may be planted 
early in this month 64 ; and Pumpkins if not done last month. 
Sow black Spanish Radish seed in drills, 68 ; sow Turnip-rooted 
Cabbage seed, or Navet, 36 ; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, 
or Russian Turnip, 85 ; and the common kinds of Turnip seed 
may be sown towards the end'of this month, 84. Attend to plan- 
tations of Hops, 87 ; whatever herbs may be required for winter 
use, should be cut off and dried as they come into flower, Burnet, 
Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Marjoram, Tarragon, 
Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month. 

The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered, and the 
seeds gathered as they ripen ; apply neat rods to the tall-growing 
and running kinds of plants ; such hardy bulbs as may require to 
be removed, may be taken up as the tops wither, after which, the 



CALENDAR AUD INDEX. 343 

dflsets may be parted ofi^ and both these and the parent bulbs dried, 
for planting in autumn, 160 and 161 ; roll gravel walks and attend to 
the lawns, edgings, &c. 134. Look over your fruit trees and grape 
vines ; stop the shoots before the bunches of fruit, and train up 
such shoots as are reserved for bearing next year. JNip off curled 
and dead leaves, and destroy insects. 



AUGUST. 

The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to hoe 
around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and stubble. Dig 
or plough vacant ground ready for fall Turnips, Spinach, Shallots, 
Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the latter crops may require 
manure, it will be greatly improved if ploughed before the manure 
is drawn on, which should be afterwards spread and ploughed 
under. 

Plant Beans for picklers,|23 ; sow Cabbage seed for Collards, 36^ 
earth up Cardoons, 37 ; do. Celery, 41 ; sow Corn Salad, or Fet- 
ticus seed, 42 ; the early kinds of Cucumber may produce picklers 
if planted early in this month, 45 ; transplant Endive and prepare 
to blanch the early plantings, 47 ; Peas may be planted thus late 
if desired, 62 ; sow black Radish seed, 68 ; prepare for planting 
Shallots by the end of this month, 77 ; sow Turnip seed for full 
crops, 84 ; attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month, 
cut off and dry Sage, and other late herbs. Hops will be ripe this 
month ; choose a dry season for gathering them, and attend to them 
as directed, page 87; thi« is a good season for preparing to make 
Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars or pits ; if the materials be 
collected this month, indigenous spawn may be collected next, but 
those that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or 
they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan, 94 ; continue to gather seeds 
of all kinds as they ripen, and clear the ground ready for late crops 
of Spinach, &c. ; prepare to plant tender Bulbous roots ; plant 
OxaUses in small pots, 179. 

SEPTEMBER. 



Although the sowing season is nearly over, the crops on the 
ground require attention constantly. Endive may still be trans- 
planted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other vegetables, and 
attend to the earthing of Celery as it progresses in growth. Sov? 
Cauliflower seed, 31 ; Cabbage, 33 ; Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 42 ; 
Cress every ten days for a Salad ; sow Mustard, Rape, &c. for the 
same purpose ; sow Lettuce seed, 51 ; Onion to stand the winter, 
56 ; Radish for fall use, 68 ; plant Shallots, 77 ; sow Spinach seed 
every week or ten days, 78 ; Turnips will sometimes come to matu« 
ri. if the seeds be sown the early part of this month, 84, 



344 CALENDAR AND INDEX. 

Continue to gather, dry and pack Hops as they ripen, 88 ; also 
all aromatic, sweet and medicinal herbs, 100 ; this is a good season 
to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situations; they may be 
spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as may be most con- 
venient. For directions to preserve spawn, &c. see page 92. 

This is a good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants 
by parting the roots ; and the perennial and biennial flower plants, 
raised from seed, may be planted in the flower borders in cloudy or 
wet weather, 144 and 145 ; flowering and evergreen shrubs may 
also be transplanted with care ; water them immediately after 
planting. 

Plantations of Strawberries may be made this month, either 
with runners or seedling plants. Protect your Grapes and other 
fruit from wasps and other insects ; either decoy them with honey 
or sugared water, or hang nets over them ; some are at the expense 
of having the bunches put into crape or paper bags. Plant Cape 
Bulbs in pots to be kept in the greenhouse through the winter ; 
plant Crown Imperials, see page 165 ; Ixias, 175 ; Lachenalias, 
176 ; Ornithogalums and Oxalises, 179. 

OCTOBER. 

The prmcipal winter crops being planted, it will be necessary 
to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall crops. 
Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth up Celery, do 
it in dry weather, and not even while the dew is on it, 41 ; As- 
paragus, Sea Kale, Skirret, and Dill seed may be sown ihts month, 
Towards the end ot the month, frames must be provided for 
the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and 
Cauliflower plants as were raised from seed sown last month 
Begin to dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough, 
to get the whole placed away before the end of the next, 
month. Take up Potatoes and bury them in graves so as to 
secure them from wet and frost, or put them in a warm cellar. 
Proceed to take up other roots ; begin with the tenderest kinds, or 
do that which is required to be done in dry weather, while it is so. 
Collect Pumpkins and Winter Squashes, and expose them to the 
sun and air on a dry bench, or ledge, before they are stowed away. 
Dig up Beets and secure them in graves, or pack them in sand in 
a cellar. 

Attend to the different kinds of herbs, 100 ; prune flowermg 
shrubs, and make new plantations of them. Protect tender exotic 
plants in the early part of this month. Prune Gooseberry and 
Currant Bushes, and make plantations of them, and Raspberries 
towards the end of the month. 

All the old branches which produced fruit last summer, may 
now be cut out of your Raspberry plantations. 

Prepare to plant all the hardy kinds of bulbous flower rootSj 
160 ; take up, and secure, Dahlias, Tuberoses, and other tender^^ 



CALENDAB AND INDEX. 345 

roots, &c. 161. Towards the end of the month, plant Anemones, 
Ranunculuses and Crocuses, 164 ; Crown Imperials, 165 ; Gladi- 
oluses, 173; Hyacinths, 174; Irises and Ixias, 175; Jonquils, 
176; Lilies, 177; Narcissus, 178: Ornithogalums, 179; Pseonies, 
180 ; Tulips, 184. 

For the management of bulbous roots, in pots and glasses, see 
page 187 to 189 ; of greenhouse plants, 188 to 193 ; Cnrysanthe- 
mums, 194. 

NOVEMBER. 

Endeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen fast in 
the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; in fine 
weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Parsnips, Skirret and 
Salsify roots as will be required for winter use, and pack them 
close together in graves ; give them a coat of straw, and afterwards 
heap on as much earth as will keep out the frost, or stow them in 
a cellar. Towards the end of the month, Turnips may be secured 
in the same way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in 
close together against a ridge which should be previously formed in 
a straight line about a foot above the level of the surface ; throw 
up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about an inch, 
and then plant row after row as close and upright as it can be 
placed, with just sufficient earth between every row to keep the 
roots and stalks from touching each other. The whole being co- 
vered up with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown over 
it sufficient to keep out the frost ; and by heaping a good layer of 
manure against the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any 
time in the winter for use. Some erect a board shed over to pre- 
serve it from wet, or a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. 
Cabbages must be taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as 
to form a square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems 
bemg buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The beds 
may be afterwards covered vrith straw, or a temporary shed may be 
erected over them. Cabbages will keep for some months in a 
cellar, if connected with their roots. For the management of 
Broccoli and Cauliflower, see pages 30 and 112. Borecole, Brussels 
Sprouts, and Coilards, may be taken up and stowed away like 
Cabbages. Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in 
sand in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close: 
together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the lower leaves. 
If the last row be protected from frost by a coat of stable dung, 
they can be taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, 
Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, 
salt hay, or cedar brush. For the management of Artichoke beds, 
see page 13 ; Asparagus, 17 ; Rhubarb, 70 ; Sea Kale, 7-i. 

Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter, 146 ; 
finish planting bulbous roots, Anemones, Ranunculuses, and Cro- 
cuses 164; Hyacinths, 174; Irises and Ixias, 175; Jonquils, 176; 

30* 



346 GALENDAE AKD INDEX. 

Lilies, 177; Nascissus, 178; Pseonies, 180; Tulips, 184. These 
and all other plants will need protection before the setting in of 
winter, 160. Hardy fruit trees may be planted this month; lay 
long litter round the roots of them, and also of the grape vines and 
other tender plants, trees, shrubs, &c. 

DECEMBER. 

If all was not done as directed last month, there is now no time 
to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should now be at- 
tended to, and if the weather continues open, some of the ground 
may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter 
frosts. Collect all your pea sticks and bean poles together, and 
place them under cover to prevent their rotting. Turn over com- 
post heaps, and provide manure for another year. Attend to 
Mushroom beds, and cover up bulbous and other roots with leaves 
or litter. All kinds of tender plants in pots should be set into 
frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or light mould, and in hard 
frosts covering of mats, straw, &c. may be laid over them. 

Collect from heaths and rocks such kinds of earth as are suitable 
for different sorts of exotic plants, and gather leaves of trees of all 
sorts, and lay them in heaps. If you intend to make hot-beds of 
them, they should be put together dry ; but if you intend them for 
compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible. 

Protect the stems of newly-planted trees. Cover with litter the 
roots of grape vines and figs against walls, and cover the branches 
with mats, &c. Prune Apple, Pear, Gluince, and other hardy 
fruit trees; cut out rotten and decaying branches. To destroy 
insects on the fruit trees, and prevent them from creeping up 
and breeding on them, do as follows : 

Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook-Uke 
iron made for the purpose ; with these scrape clean off all the 
moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife pick out or cut 
away cankered parts of the bark and of the wood, in such a slanting 
manner that water cannot lodge in the sides of the stems of the 
trees. Having cleared the trees in this manner, make up a mix- 
ture of lime, soot and sulphur ; put these ingredients into a pot or 
tub, pour boiling water upon them, and with a stick stir and mix 
them well together. When this strong mixture becomes cold, 
and about the thickness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the 
mixture, and apply it to the stems and the large branches of ths 
trees, dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark. The 
pruning of hardy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may be performed 
at all favourable opportunities through the winter. 

For further information on these subjects, the reader is referred 
to the articles commencing page 215, and 223. 



INDEX 



Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers & Fruits. 



VEGETABLES. 



Page 
Artichoke, - - 11 

Asparagus, 15, 109 &. 123 

Beans, Eng. Dwarf, 20 & 111 
Beans, Kidney Dwarf, 22 & HI 
Beans, Pole or Running, 24 
Beet, - - 25 

Borecole, or Kale, - 26 

Brussels Sprouts, - 27 

Broccoli, - 28 & 112 

Cauliflower, - 31 & 112 

Cabbage, - 33 & 104 

Colewort, or CoUards, 36 

Cardoons,. - - 37 

Carrot, - - 38 

Celery, - 39 

Chervil, - - 42 

Chives, - - 42 

Corn Salad, or Fetticus, 42 
Cress, - - 43 

Cucumber, 44, 113 & 116 

Egg Plant, - 46 & 104 

Endive, - - 47 

Garden Burnet, - 48 

Garlic, - - 68 

Indian Corn, - 49 

Jerusalem Artichoke, 49 

Leek, - - 50 

Lettuce, - 51 & 117 

Melon, - 53 & 118 

Melon Water, - 54 



Mustard, - - 55 

Nasturtium, - 56 

Okra, - - 56 

Onion, - - 57 

Parsley, - - 59 

Parsnip, - - 60 

Peppers, - - 61 

62 & 119 
64 & 120 
65 

67 

67 & 121 

68 

69 & 121 

71 

Scorzonera, - 72 

Sea Kale, - 73 & 123 

Sorrel, - - 76 

Skirret, - - 76 

Shallot, - - 77 

Spinach, - - 78 

Squash, - - 79 

I omato, - 80 & 104 

Turnip, - - 81 

Turnip, French or Navet, 36 
Turnip, Russian, - 85 

Hop, - 85, 214 & 215 

Horse Radish, - 90 

Mushroom, 90, 122, 213 & 815 



Potatoes, 

Potatoes, Sweet, 

Pumpkins, 

Patience Dock, 

Radish, 

Rocambole, 

Rhubarb, 



HERBS AND FLOWERS. 

Annual Flower Seeds, a Catalogue of - - - - 135 
Aromatic, Pot, and Sweet Herbs, a catalogue of - - 97 

Biennial and Perennial Flower Seeds, a catalogue of - 142 

Climbing Plants, 137, 143, 147, & 155 

Chrysanthemums, 194 

Double Dahlias, a catalogue of 166 

Edgings, Lawns, &c. 134 & 146 

Greenhouse Plants, Management of - - - 189 to 193 
Herbs, Pot and Sweet, Culture of - . . . 98 

Herbs, Medicinal, Culture of ... - - 99 

Herbs, to Preserve, 100 



a48 



INDEX. 



Roses, running kinds of 


_ . - . 


157 


Shrubs, Flowering and Ornamental, - - - 


146 to 157 


BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 


Page 




. ^^t 


Amaryllises, - 162 


Jonquils, 


Anemones «& Ranunculuses, 164 


Lachenalias, 


- 176 


Crocuses, - . 164 


Lilies, 


176 


Crown Imperials, - 165 


Narcissuses, 


- 177 


Colchicums, - 165 


Ornithogalums, 


- 178 


Double Dahlias, - 165 


Oxalises, 


179 


Gladioluses, - 172 


Pseonies, 


- 179 


Hyacinths, - - 174 


Tulips, 


181 


Irises, - - 175 


Tuberoses, 


185 


Ixias, - . - 175 


Tiger Flowers, - 


186 


FRUITS. 




Apple, - 233 & 302 


Mulberry, 


273 


Apricot, - 235 & 308 


Nectarine, 


276 & 313 


Almond, - 238 


Orange, Lemon, &c 


278 


Cherry, - 240 & 309 


Peach, - 


280^ & 315 


Chestnut, - 242 


Pear, 


283 & 321 


Cranberry, - 243 


Plum - - . 


285 & 329 


Currant, - 245 


auince. 


288 


Fig, - - 247 


Raspberry, 


290 


Filbert, - - 248 


Strawberry, 


292 


Gooseberry, - 249 


Walnut, 


296 


Grape, - - 256 







INDEX TO THE GENERAL MATTER. 

Air, Heat, Light, and Moisture, essential to vegetation — 191 & 192 
Ashes valuable to the Farmer, - - - 83, 219 to 223 

Aspect, Situation, &c. - - - - 2, 133, 160 & 209 
Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Plants, defined, 98 & 144 

Budding and Grafting Fruit Trees, - - 228 

Blank Book recommended, - - - 2, 103, 140 & 184 

Bulbous and Tuberous roofs, defined, - - - 159 

Bulbous and Tuberous roots, to preserve, • 160, 162 & 189 
Beauties of April and May, --.--- 196 
Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery, - - 298 

Calendar and Index, - - .- - - - 209 to 218 
Diseases of Trees, Insects, &c. - - - 215 & 346 

Double Dahlias, General Management of, - 161 & 170 

Drilling, Mode of, 5, 6 & 141 

Eflfects of Cultivation Exemplified in Celery, - - 39 

Forcing Vegetables, Observations on, - - - - 105 



INDEX. 349 

Flower Garden, Observations on, - 133, 138, 146 & 153 

Garden Tools, &c.; indispensably necessary, 6, 138, 227 & 228 
Grafting Clay, Composition, &c. to make, - - 232 

General Observations on the Kitchen Garden, - - 1 lo 10 

Hedges of Shrubs, 133 & 147 

Hot- Beds, Management of, - - - 104, 113 & 338 

Hints on Cooking Rare Vegetables, - - - - 124 

Insects, to destroy, 3, 7, 45, 215 & 340 

Laying out the Ground, - - - - ' - 1, 10 & J33 

Manure, Compost, &c. ... 3^ 10, 160, 193 & 346 

Matrimonial Garden, 293 

Observations on the Fruit Garden and Orchard, - 209 

Pruning and Training Fruit Trees, Vines, &c. - 147 & 223 
Perennial Herbaceous Plants, to propagate, 145, 190 & 344 

Plan of Beds, &c. 101 to 104 

Protection of Flower Beds, - - 133, 146, 164, 185, & 346 

RolUng recommended, '- 6&9 

Soils, manageznent of, - - - - 3, 83, 138 & 193 

Sowing Season, 4, 84 & 139 

Table of Estimates, -.„...'. 9 

Thermometer recommended, -.-.-- 108 
Transplanting Vegetables, - - - . 9, 340 & 342 
Transplanting Flowering Plants, - - 141, 145 & 344 

Vegetables, to preserve, - - - - - 344 & 345 



COMMENDATORY NOTICES 

OF 

Tlie Young Gardener's Assistant* 



" The first edition of the ' Young Gardener's Assistant' has 
been favourably noticed in the 'Annates dc V Institute Royal 
Horticole de Fromont^^ the editor of which, Le ChevaHer Soulange 
Bodin,speaks of it in terms of high commendation." — N. Y.Farmer. 

" From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appro- 
priate heads, and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, 
it must be an invaluable manual for those who may wish to super- 
intend the management of their own gardens." — Alhamj Argxis. 

" The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, 
and his book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, 
whether old or young, in horticultural pursuits."— Ga^e^^e. 

" It will we are persuaded be found, what the writer intends it 
shall be, ' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or 
take the management of, their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a 
gardener himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are there- 
fore applicable to our climate— an advantage of no little moment." 
--AiMerican. 

" Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject 
on which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the 
result of twelve years' experience, and we dare to say, that though 
submitted in an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, 
if not more so, ihan ttiose in more costly and expensive works."— 
Courier and Enquirer. 

" No work on the subject of Kitchen Gardening, ever published 
in- this country, has met with so very general approbation and 
extensive sale. Mr. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best 
gardeners, and writes from his own experience.'' — Daily Adv. 

" Bridgeman' s Gardener's Assistant. — The fourth edition of 
this useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased 
value by the addition of several matters not contained in either of 
the former editions. Among these is a short and convenient 
calendar to assist the gardener's memory.'' — Evening Post. 

" The calendarial index is invaluable, and of itself worth the 
jxrice of the hook.''— Commercial. 

" That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this 
most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of 
applause and patronage ; and such we consider the * Young Gar- 
dener's Assistant.' " — Advocate. 

" The woik is calculated to be of immense service to those 
engaged in Agriculture, 'far from the busy haunts of men,' and to 
the disciples of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical 
gardener and seedsman, and has lived many years on both sides of. 
(the Atlantic." — Old Countryman. 



J^EW WORK ON FLORICULTURE, 

Sust 3Pu6lisf!)etr, 

AND FOR SALE BY THE SUBSCRIBER, 

THE FLORIST'S GUIDE, 

BY 

T. BRIDGEMAN, 

GARDENER AND FLORIST, NEW- YORK. 



120 Pages, neatly done up in Boards, price 37^ Cents. 

This is one of the best works on tho subject ever published 
in any country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cul- 
tivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, 
of different classes, Herbaceous and Shrubby, Bulbous, 
Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double Dahlia, 
Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c, &c. 

A Work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, 
it required an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get 
any sort of readable directions for small gardens, window 
gardening, plants in rooms, &c. and when procured, were so 
full of botanical foppery, that plain, honest people, after 
wading through some three or four hundred pages, were 
about as wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, 
as when they commenced their book. The present little 
work obviates all these difficulties. The Author is well known 
as one of our best practical gardeners, and it may be truly 
said he has rendered the Ladies in particular (for whom the 
work was first projected) an essential service; the directions 
for the care of the Camellia Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the 
sowing and treatment of Annual Flower Seeds, are alone worth 
double the price of the book; so is the Calendarial Index, 
which, by the untiring industry of Mr, Bridgeman, is made to 
include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information 
than in some ponderous octavos on the same subject. In 
short, those who are dissatisfied after a perusal of this work, 
may return it. 

GEO. C. THORBURN, 

67, Liberty-street. 

{From the Commercial Advertiser, of March 26, 1835.) 



0S2 

The FlorisVs Guide is the title of a duodecimo volume, of 
120 pages, just issued from the press in this city. It is the 
production of Mr. T. Bridgeman, Gardener, Seedsman, and 
Florist, and contains directions for the cultivation of Annual, 
Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of different classes. 
A work of this description cannot but prove valuable to Hor- 
ticulturists, particularly to those Ladies who are fond of that 
healthful employment of cultivating th«ir own flower-beds. — 
Gazette. 

We observe that Mr. T. Bridgeman, the ingenious author 
of '' The Young Gardener's Assistant," has put to press 
another work, entitled "The Florist's Guide," containing 
directions for cultivating flowering plants and greenhouse 
plants of every description. It is very neatly printed, and 
although extending to 120 pages, is offered at the low price of 
37^ cents per copy. — Old Countryman. 

The Florist's Guide. — A delightful little book, which we 
advise every body to purchase — at least every body that has 
the least liking for the pleasing occupation on which it 
treats. — Courier and Enquirer. 

Mr. Bridgeman, of this city, has published a neat little 
work, entitled the " Florist's Guide," containing directions 
for the cultivation of flowers. It is a pleasant and instructive 
little book. — Times. 

Mr. T. Bridgeman, author of several works on gardening, 
has just published a little volume entitled "The Florist's 
Guide," containing practical directions for the cultivatioa of 
annual, biennial, and flowering plants,Wouble dahlias, green- 
house plants.. &c. It is neatly printed. — Post. 

The Florist's Guide — The author of this work is a gar- 
dener and florist, and gives the result of his knowledge and 
experience in this most pleasing employment of cultivating 
flowers. — Daily Advertiser. 

The Florist's Guide has also been very favourably noticed 
by the editors of many other respectable periodicals, as a 
work eminently calculated to promote a love for the cultiva- 
tion and correct management of flowers — the study of which, 
remarks one of these writers, "refines the taste, and imparts 
just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of Nature." 



r..* 



